Get Sharper Handling with a Lower Center of Gravity
Step 1:
Begin by removing the front bumper mount to access the chassis screws. Remove the screw that holds the steering linkage to the bellcranks (arrowed), and the 3 mm and 4 mm screws in the bumper mount. Don’t forget the screws that pass through the bumper to reach the mount. The front bumper can remain attached, you only need to remove the bumper mount.
Step 2
With the bumper mount removed, we can now remove the 4 mm screws that attach the chassis to the front bulkhead. Next, turn the chassis over and remove the 3 mm screws from the front skid plate. Remove the front suspension module.
Step 3
Remove the front skid plate by taking out the 4 mm screws that secure it to the bulkhead. Turn the module over and remove the 3x30 mm cap-head screws and washers that hold the steering bellcranks. Slide the bellcranks off of the posts together. Be sure to also remove the PTFE washers that are placed under the bellcranks, there are two on each post.
Step 4
Remove the 3 mm screws from the rear shock tower where it meets the chassis, then turn the truck over and remove the 3 mm screws that hold the skid plate to the chassis. Unplug the motor wires and remove the rear suspension module.
Step 5
Remove the 3 mm and 4 mm screws that hold the skid plate to the transmission, and the arrowed 3 mm screws that secure the rear bumper assembly. Remove the skid plate and rear bumper assembly.
Step 6
Prepare the LCG chassis by installing the battery strap mount and clip post. Use the supplied 3x15 mm screws to secure the mount.
Step 7
Remove the 3x8 mm screws that secure the nerf bars on the original chassis and use them to install the LCG chassis’ supplied nerf bars.
Step 8
Now we’ll remove the electronics from the original chassis. Remove the screws shown from the receiver box, speed control, and servo. The screws that secure the receiver box can be accessed once the lid is removed. Remove the servo-saver from the servo by taking out the arrowed screw and pulling on the servo saver. With the servo saver removed, the servo can be taken out of the chassis. Unplug the speed control and servo from the receiver and set the electronics aside.
Step 9
Install the new lower chassis onto the front bulkhead using the two 4x12 mm screws you removed in Step 3, and the single 4X12 mm screw supplied with the LCG chassis kit. Turn the suspension module over and slide the PTFE washers onto the posts (two per post), followed by the steering bellcranks. Secure the bellcranks using the 3x10 mm cap head screws supplied with the LCG chassis kit, and the washers that you removed in Step 3. DO NOT re-use the 3x30 mm bellcrank screws from the original chassis, as they are too long and will deform or poke through the bottom of the lower chassis if installed.
Shorter Springs Included
The Low-CG kit includes shorter springs to replace the Slash’s front springs. These springs are comparable in rate (stiffness) to the original springs, but allow the front end to sit a little lower so the chassis is at the proper ride height. If you’ve raised your Slash’s rear ride height, you may prefer to leave the stock front springs in place. Since our Slash’s chassis is already sitting level on the Big Bore shocks we installed in the 3-Phase Upgrade build, we’ll live the springs as they are and keep the shorter springs as spares.Step 10
Install the servo on the lower chassis using the screws you removed in Step 8. Before reattaching the servo saver, shorten the linkage so there is 17 mm of threaded rod visible between the eyelets. No cutting is required, just turn the eyelets to thread them more deeply onto the rod. Pass the servo lead through the slot in the main chassis, then attach the lower chassis to the main chassis using the three supplied 4 mm screws and the 4 mm screws you removed in Step 2.
Step 11
Line up the rear suspension module on the chassis and reinstall the 4 mm and 3 mm screws that pass through the chassis into the transmission housing, then install the 3 mm screws through the shock tower.
Step 12
Slide the rear bumper assembly over the chassis “tail,” and secure it using the 3 mm screws you removed in Step 5.
Step 13
Reinstall the receiver box and speed control using the hardware removed in Step 8. Use the wire clip molded into the chassis to hold the servo wire alongside the battery channel, and route the speed control wire through the slots in the battery channel’s walls. If you’ve got a VXL-3s speed control, use its integrated clip to hold the wire. Remember to plug the steering servo into Channel 1, and the speed control into channel 2. Reinstall the receiver box lid, making certain the blue o-ring seal is in place.
Steering Switch-Up
Because of the different servo position used with the Low-CG chassis, your Slash will steer left when you turn right, and vice-versa. To correct this, “reverse” the steering servo using these steps:
Step 14
Reinstall the wheels, drop in your favorite battery, put the body on and hit the dirt!
More Color Options for the Low-CG Chassis
The Low-CG Chassis is sold as a complete kit with a blue main chassis, but the components are also offered separately in three colors. The main chassis, lower chassis, and nerf bars are each offered in blue, grey, and black (see item numbers below). We built up another Slash in grey to show off a different look.
Using the Low-CG Chassis in a Straight Line
The starting point for many Slash builds for drag racing is the Low-CG chassis. The improved balance helps keep the front tires down, while still providing plenty of traction to get off the line and make a clean, quick pass on the scale strip. Learn more about building one of your own in our How to build a Drag Slash video.
Our Slash is ready for action. See the Slash and other other vehicles on our YouTube channel.Click here to go to the channel now.