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Learn the Proper Techniques to Glue, Mount, and Vent Your Tires

Here's what we'll be using to mount our tires.

Traxxas Ultra Premium Tire Glue holds the XO-1’s tires tight at over 100 mph.

Wheel and Tire Terms
The parts of the wheel and tire that actually interface are the bead and the channel, as shown in the cutaways. Depending on the wheel and tire combo you’re working with, the bead may simply drop into the channel vertically, or it may press in from the side. Horizontal beads offers maximum resistance to tire separation due to centrifugal force, which is why this design is the choice for all Traxxas wheels and tires that equip brushless and brushless-ready models.

Vertical beads are typical. Traxxas uses horizontal beads for applications that require maximum tire-holding power.

Step 1: Bonding Area Prep
Even though the tires and wheels are fresh out of the package, we’re going to clean them to ensure the strongest, most complete bond. Only the mounting beads and channels need to be cleaned, not the entire tire and wheel. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is all you need (and you probably already have some in the medicine cabinet). Eyeglass cleaning wipes are another option, their cleaning agent is alcohol. The alcohol will remove any mold-release agents from the manufacturing process that might interfere with the glue bond, and it evaporates without leaving any residue behind.

Clean the wheel channels and tire beads with alcohol to ensure maximum bonding power.

OPTIONAL: Tire Venting
Venting allows air to flow in and out of the tire so it can deform easily to grip surfaces without fighting the spring effect of air trapped in the tires. Vents may be small holes in the tires themselves, or holes in the rim. Traxxas puts the vents in the rims, which makes it easy to seal them with poster putty if you’d like your wheels and tires to be watertight. Some drivers also like to vent the tires for even more airflow, or if they are going to be running in wet conditions. This is easier to do before mounting the tires, and a leather punch is the ideal tool. These can be had for around ten bucks. Make two tire vents in the tread’s centerline, with the holes opposite each other. The vents will allow a little dirt or water to enter the tire, but it will be flung out by centrifugal force.

A leather punch is perfect for venting tires.

Vent the center of the tread, on opposite sides.

Step 2: Dry-Mount the Tires
Push the wheel into the tire and fit the beads into the channels. Work the sidewalls as needed to fully seat the tire so there are no high spots where the rubber meets the rim face. If any sections won’t seat, there may be a bit of foam insert trapped between the tire and wheel, or you may need to trim a bit of excess rubber that’s interfering with the fit (rare, but have a look). If there are any fit issues, now is the time to fix them, not halfway through the gluing process. Traxxas wheels and tires generally seat easily and completely without extra fuss.

Tuck one edge of the tire into the wheel.

Push and pull the tire over the rim.

Make sure the beads seat fully in the rims.

High spots are unattractive and may come loose.

If you’re mounting directional tires such as the Canyon Trail, Canyon AT, and Talon designs, make sure you assemble the wheels and tires as lefts and rights before you glue.

Step 3. Apply Glue
Safety glasses on. Pull a section of bead away from the rim and apply a drop of glue to the channel, then lower the bead back into the channel. Avoid letting the bead snap into place, which may cause the glue to spatter (and that’s why you’re wearing safety glasses). Seat the bead fully, then repeat with another section of bead until you’ve gone all the way around the rim. Use hook-and-loop cable wraps or rubber bands to hold the joint between the tire and wheel closed until the glue cures. You only need enough tension to keep the tire fully pressed to the rim, don’t overdo it. Move onto the next tire and repeat the process until you’ve glued the front of each wheel and tire. Then, go back to the first wheel and tire and repeat the process for the back halves.

Each bottle of Ultra Premium glue includes two fine tips for precise glue application.

Peel the tire away from the wheel and apply the glue a section at a time.

With CA glue, more isn’t better. One drop per section is all you need.

Hook-and-loop cable wraps are perfect for gluing tires. Rubber bands will also do the job.

Optional: Apply a Sealing Layer
To seal the joint between the tire and wheel, apply a drop of glue to the joint and then gently tilt and rotate the wheel so the drop runs around the joint like a track. Use the tip of the glue bottle to help move it along if it gets stuck. Repeat as needed to spread the glue all the way around the tire. This allows glue to wick into the joint for extra holding power, and will help prevent dirt from packing into the joint when you drive. The only down side to this extra step is appearance, as the glue will leave a shiny trail on the tire and be visible on the rim—but you’ll only notice it up close. From a few feet back (and anytime you’re driving), you won’t see it.

Apply a drop of glue.

Tilt the tire so the glue drop runs along the joint.

Trail Trucking? Go Glueless
Though more expensive up front, outfitting your TRX-4 or TRX-6 with beadlock rims will save you money by allowing you to reuse the wheels instead of purchasing new ones when it’s time to replace your tires or you just want to try a new tread. Beadlock rims also give you more options for customizing your truck with color, and making modifications like adding weights. You can get Method 105 replica beadlock wheels in 1.9″ and 2.2″ sizes in a variety of finishes and choose your own ring colors, or get them pre-assembled.

Beadlock rims hold the tires mechanically, no glue required.

You can choose different ring colors to match or contrast your machine.