Trick Out your TRX-4 Defender with the Latest Accessories
Parts needed throughout this project| |
| Part 1 Build List |
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The Body
If you want to transform the look of your ride, a body, wheel and tire swap will instantly do the trick. And in the case of our Ultimate Trail Truck mission, it’s also an opportunity to add some softer rubber and a full LED light kit. But first, the body. All of the TRX-4 models are great-looking rigs right out of the box, but we’re looking to change things up since we’re in Project mode. Custom-painting a clear body is always an option, and the clear Defender shell is part 8011 if you want to go that route (you can also get the Bronco, Tactical and Sport bodies in clear). We went a much easier, faster way by going with the 8011A Adventure Defender Edition body in orange (you can also get it in green). In addition to giving you a different color than the metallic red and silver looks of the RTR Defender, the Adventure bodies get clear windows and a black hood and roof.
Adventure body
The Adventure body arrives assembled and ready to mount. The clear windows and black hood really make the truck stand out, not to mention the bright orange paint.
Adventure detail
The gas cans and jack are black for the Adventure bodies, instead of the red parts the RTRs get. The spare wheel and tire are not included, just grab the spare from your RTR body.
Rims and Rings
Traxxas offers Method replica beadlocks in black chrome (8173) and charcoal gray (8173A). We went with black chrome. To contrast with the orange body, (8169X) blue beadlock rings got the nod. If blue’s not for you, you can also get the rings in red, green, silver, and black. The beadlock design makes it easy to mount the tires, just be sure to pay attention to the rotation arrow on the tires. The beads just slip into the rings (it’s an easy fit), then the rings fit over them to hold the tires. Each ring takes 12 screws, so you’re looking at 96 screws to mount all four tires. We knocked the job out in 30 minutes with the Traxxas ratcheting driver tool set (3415). The rings’ screw holes are countersunk to face smooth-side out. As you install the screws, note that they just need to be snugged up, not tightened hard against the rings. The rings hold the tires by capturing the tire beads, not by pinching them.
Rotation
Smooth face
Full LED Light Kit (8030)Light kit
This is the 8030 light kit, which includes headlights, taillights, amber front lights, and rock lights (those are the LEDS that tuck into the fender wells). The kit also includes a regulated power supply, so you get the same bright-white light no matter what kind of battery you use in your TRX-4. Here’s the thing: when you open up the kit and look at the instructions, you’re gonna be like, “I dunno man, this is pretty intense. So many wires…” Don’t worry, the install is actually very easy.
Remove the housing
Rock lights
Mounted light barYou’ll need to remove the wheel wells, fender flares, and light housings to install the LEDs. Again, the Traxxas ratcheting driver really helps speed things up. The LEDs fit just like the non-lit parts, and are marked right-front (RF), left front (LF) etc., so it’s goof-proof. The rock lights are daisy-chained together, and the wires lengths from light to light are short where the wires jump the width of the body, and long where they run across the doors. It’s hard to goof up. The light bar attaches to existing holes in the roll cage, using included screws. Easy!
Ream hole
Bar hole
Wire guideThe only modification required to install the light bar is a single ¼″ hole, so the wires can pass inside the body. A body reamer is the best tool for the job. Man, the guys in engineering thought of everything. There are zip-tie points built into the body so it’s easy to route the wires.
LED Module
The separate plugs for the light bar, rock lights, and headlight/taillights fit into a single “3-in-1” connector, and that goes into the “LED module” which installs on bosses molded into the chassis. The module plugs into the speed control, and a receiver plug is routed under the battery tray into the receiver. Mission accomplished.
3 in 1 plug
LED modulePower up the TRX-4, and the lights come on. And they are bright. Photos don’t really do them justice, you need to see them in action for yourself. Rest assured, you’ll have no trouble seeing the trail, and the rock-lights make it easy to see what the tires are up to. The switch on the light bar selects High and Low brightness for the entire system. It’s more like “bright and brighter.”
Bright light
Rear lights
High low switchFinishing Touches
While the fenders were off for the LED install, we added a graphic to the body. Some mid-80s Defenders got a multi-width stripe graphic, which is easy to recreate with “trim tape” from the RC airplane department at the hobby store. Use a ruler to cut the stripes, then remove the waste material between them. Then use painter’s tape to transfer the stripes to the body with their perfect alignment intact. You can even create the stripes with colored electrical tape if your hobby store doesn’t have trim tape. For the most factory look, put the stripes on while the fenders are off, then install the fenders on top of the stripes.
Tape stripe
Finished bodyNext Up - Part 2
This rig is really coming along, and the build is barely even started! Click on over to part 2 where we dig into the drivetrain—lots more upgrades to come!
Get your wrench on, and show us how your Trail Truck build turned out! Post your pics to Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #MyTRX4Build, and we’ll be sure to share some of our favorites.
