I am not an avid RC person. I am in the steep part of the learning curve for sure.
I just bought a Slash Ultimate 4x4 a few weeks ago. Super fun, and shocking fast from what I remember about RC from 20+ years ago....
After running it for two'ish weeks for some reason the "Majic Smoke" escaped the ESC. I am not exactly sure why. I dropped it off at the RC shop and they are putting a better motor/ESC set up in it for me... (I am currently injured which is making life a bit more difficult that I would like).
In my boredom waiting for my Slash to be fixed I bought an E Revo. I did not intend to, I meant to buy a stampede, but they only had a brushed version. And then i saw the Revo box.... I had never seen one before, and to be honest never heard of an RC car that use's two battery packs at once before.
My first drive was bone stock with 4s. I made it almost two feet before it flipped over. I never expected that to be honest.
The RC shop told me to pay close attention to the clutch adjusting process.... The more I "drove" it, and the hotter it got, the more it slipped. I adjusted it a couple times a 1/4 turn at a time.
Finally got worn out with it and just tightened it up 2 and a 1/2 turns or so. OMG what a HUGE difference. After that it was just a contest to see who could pull the longest wheelie with it. Completely unexpected.
Did I do a bad thing in adjusting the clutch in this way? Why is there a slipper clutch in the first place? Why don't they make a scale torque converter?
I am assuming the danger is if you get something stuck and give it throttle this will over heat the battery's/motor/ESC...?
Also I noticed on my Slash the rear tires are really have a lot of toe in, but this thing seems to have toe out at the rear... Is that correct?
Is there a better set up to try? I am a Basher (I hate that word, makes it sound like I am out to just break things which is not correct, my local RC shop calls people like me "Street" guys I like that a lot better) so I am not trying to win a race. As it is it push's a lot. But to be fair when turning at speed it is not as flip over prone as my Slash.
My Revo is completely stock so far. I understand that the half shafts and the upper front a arms are break prone. Anything else I need to keep in stock? I mean obviously it would be better if I could keep everything in stock, but I cannot.
My stock tires have started to separate from the rim, but only on the outside. Is this common? Is there a fix? Or do I just need to buy better tires/wheels? I am still "driving" it, but it looks a bit crazy at the moment to be sure.
I have a 3s battery I bought for my Slash (what a HUGE difference), is it worth another $70-90 bucks to get another one and try it in the REVO? I mean as is with the 4s and the tightened up clutch it is amazing wheelie prone. This thing is a lesson in throttle control. All my years riding and racing liter bikes has not gone completely to waste....lol
I am curious to know what gearing set up's would be safe as far as motor and ESC go with 4S and an otherwise set up? I don't want the "Majic" smoke leaving this ESC like the other one. I don't think this revo is as fast top speed wise as my Slash (find out when I get it back), but it has a TON more PUNCH...lol Plus it drives over curbs like they are not there.
Finally managed to "break" the REVO...lol
One of the link ends on the rear toe in adjuster stripped out. Easy fix, just have to go get the part.
I see aluminum links, but does anyone make metal ends for them? I am assuming stripping these out somewhat common?
I put trenchers on it. They are fun, but you can tell they are much heavier.
Finally tried it on 6S. Good Lord...lol Even at 15-20 mph if you stab it it will flip over, even with the trenchers on it.
I am completely stunned how strong and durable this thing is.
I am going to need to get another rear wing, this one is getting ground away. It is just too much fun to wheelie this thing down the street...lol
I too just got a new ERBE after getting a Slash Ultimate 4X4. I was in the hobby big time about 10 years ago, but will all Nitro stuff. After selling off and being out for a while, I decided to get a Slash, which within the next week I wanted a E-Revo.
I recommend getting the wheelie bar if you like to do wheelies. It has four adjustment for different angles and saves the wing if running on hard surfaces. It is easily removed if you are in an area you don't need it.
I've only run it a few times but I have added the wheelie bar, sway bar and trenchers. I also shimmed the differentials based on the advise of these forums.
The 3S battery is likely what smoked the Ultimate. I tried it once and heat went up quick so I stopped and went back to 2S.
The slipper clutch is there to protect the driveline components(diffs, driveshafts and pinion/spur) from sudden shock from the monstrous and instant torque the 2200kv motor can put out. With it tightened down and now running 6s you are going to be shredding diffs and driveshafts in no time.
I learned real quick about grinding away the rear wing so I too suggest getting the wheelie bar to save your next wing.
I also recommend getting an IR temp gun to monitor temps. The ESC on you slash 4x4 probably got too hot from the 3s battery and overheated.
2x 2wd Slash|Slash 4x4 PE|MM E-Revo|Grave Digger
I bought the castle set up for my Slash (basically the same thing that is in the revo stock) so hopefully that will fix any future problems with a speed controller.
To be honest I don't care about the wing too much, if it gets ground up that's fine. The wheelie bar is only like $20 from what i have seen so i might get one and try it out, but kicking it back onto the wing reminds me of wheelieing my street bikes (though I cannot 12 o'clock a street bike, not in the competent way at any rate).
I do not have a temp gun, I need to pick one up. I just d/l the Traxxas app for my I-pod and will be interested to see what temps it shows me.
What is involved in shimming the diff's, and what is the point of doing it?
I just grabbed some bead lock wheels and some series 40 pro line tires. I am mostly running on concrete at the moment, so this will be better suited. Plus while I like the trenchers, I believe the weight and traction of them will lead to broken parts. The new tires should have limited traction in the dirt and grass, which I think will be fun.
6S is fun, but it's like road racing a liter bike on a short track, you spend a lot of time trying to get to WOT, and very little time actually at WOT. It's so wheelie prone that I think it is actually faster with the 4s in most ways.
deviltrigger529 how do you know when the clutch is adjusted correctly? My LHS guy told me he normally tightens down the nut until the spring is collapsed and then backs off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. How would you suggest doing it?
Thanks for the help guys
Your LHS guy was correct about the adjustment. Maybe even just an 1/8th turn out after tightening down. You will know its adjusted properly when you can hear it slip for a split second when you give it a good amount of throttle. You shouldn't not hear a slip at all or too much slip, which too much can cause the spur gear to melt.
I usually run a fully tight or almost tight slipper and prefer to use throttle control to save the driveline, although there will always be something you can't control like a sudden bump in the ground which is where the slipper comes in.
Shimming the diffs is pretty straight forward, you add shims to make the pinion and ring gear get closer and better contact. Heres a thread someone posted on how to do it:
Last edited by deviltrigger529; 08-29-2014 at 01:25 AM.
2x 2wd Slash|Slash 4x4 PE|MM E-Revo|Grave Digger
Thank you Boss. Great info. I will recheck my clutch adjustment.
And thanks for the link on shimming. Not ready for all that yet, but great info to have.
Don't forget you can look at all the manuals for any Traxxas Model under Products, under Downloads.
1/10 ERBE, Slash MT
Well I finally managed to break it...lol
Just broke a front drive shaft. Not a huge big deal. I was running 6S and i understand this is a common by product of that...lol
I was on 4S and saw 35 mph on my Traxxas link app. I put in the 6S as i was wondering what the difference might be, and it read 49 mph. 14 MPH from just a change of battery's. that is amazing to me to be honest.
Now I was using the series 40 tires with the bead lock wheels I bought recently. I did not input that to the Traxxas app, so I am not sure how accurate the speed might be, but still the difference in speed in just battery's is great, and to me amazing. i am guessing it will go faster top speed wise if I put the Trenchers back on, as they are taller.
I want to try the Trenchers, and then try changing the gearing (something I have never done before on either of my recently purchased RC's). Just to see how fast it will go. I really did not care before, but now that I have the Traxxas link up and running it brings in a whole new challenge to me I guess. Good on Traxxas for their App. The Slash I bought had the controller that you plug your apple product into, but it was the older plug and my Touch would not work. Now that I have the bluetooth controller it is awesome.
Now my question is this. How do you know if you have a bad battery? When I was running on 4S the truck slowed down, and then eventually stopped moving. Wait 30 seconds and then it will move forward 5 feet, then stop again and repeat. The app showed 175-180 motor temp, and still 12 volts? I let it sit about 5-10 minutes, slapped in the 6S and away it went.
Plugged in the 2S battery's into my Onyx 245 charger and one of them kept giving me an error. plugged it into the cheap Traxxas charger and it is charging. Bad Battery? They are Traxxas battery's I got with my Slash.
And this is going to sound a bit odd, but so far I have only got my Rc's dusty. I use my air compressor to blow them out and they look nearly new afterwards. But this morning the grass was wet and the wet combined with the dust... Man this thing is dirty...lol Whats the best way to clean it without killing electronics or bearings?
Thanks in advance guys.
might head to the LHS on my GROM to get some driveshafts... Should be fun with an air cast on
I don't think you had a bad battery, but you might now. It sounds like you may have discharged it too much. I believe 3.2 volts/cell is the minimum that it is safe to discharge a lipo. Make sure you have your LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff) set to 3.4 or 3.5 on the ESC via the castle link.
When your power cuts out like that, that is the LVC on the ESC telling you to stop driving and recharge your batteries.
That was my misunderstanding them. I was thinking the voltage would get down to 3.2. I was not thinking 3.2 per cell....
I don't have the Castle link, will have to get one I guess.
Thanks for the help. I will set my warning to 13 volts on my Traxxas app.
I would also like to know how everyone cleans their trucks when they get super dirty??
Well I was going to but Summit Axle assembly's for my Revo as I understand they are a little stronger for not much more money...
The LHS did not have any Summit axle's ready to go however, so I just bought the Traxxas CDV drive shafts.
I also bought the RPM front a arm's. I ordered the RPM true track rear arms, as the ability to adjust toe on the rear tires does not really interest me to be honest.
I have the front end off of the REVO ATM. This is the most torn down I have had it. It is fun and exciting in a way...lol I have built ton's of motorcycle motor's in my life, but this is very different.
The front diff has at least 1 mm of in and out play on the pinion. Also the diff carrier has oil on the out side of it. Not a great sign. Not sure I am ready to rebuild the diff's yet. If I do, I will for sure use the aftermarket alloy cases and would like to use a better diff set up if it is available. I word it like that because I have read different things about alloy diff cups, and I do not fully understand what is needed to do the Losi diff conversion with the four spider gears. Any clear input on parts needed and use/life would be very appreciated.
I think tomorrow I will order all the STRC stuff that is available for a REVO. I am stuck at home and super bored. I think I will get the RPM front carriers instead of the STRC carriers. Just so the fronts match the backs.
The bead lock wheels I bought had great promise, but in practice are no where near a perfect solution. If you rub a curb or cart wheel it the tires will pull out from the bead locks. It is easily fixable, by removing a million fine thread screws...lol Not exactly what I had hoped for to be honest. They are good, but not great, IMHO.
I put the smaller spur gear on it, and it will still pull a wheelie at 30 mph. It is an exercise in throttle control for sure...lol
Are their better shocks for this thing? I mean i know the Traxxas gtr shocks are alloy, but do they use the same pistons? if so then there is no real difference, as the piston sets the dampening characteristics on these shocks. Are there really good aftermarket shocks to buy?
How fast can you expect to get one of these going with the stock motor/esc/6s??
I am unhappy. I took the whole front end off. Swapped out the a arms and drive shafts. I have two screws left over and I cannot figure out where they go....lol
Have to take it all back apart I am not too happy...lol
"Are their better shocks for this thing? I mean i know the Traxxas gtr shocks are alloy, but do they use the same pistons? if so then there is no real difference, as the piston sets the dampening characteristics on these shocks. Are there really good aftermarket shocks to buy?"
The stock GTR shocks are some the best around. A popular setup is silver springs in the front and blue in the rear. Most people use in between 60-80wt shock oil.
Well I managed to figure out where the two "extra" screws went...
I bought RPM front arms. My extra screws were the screws from the stock front lower arms. the RPM arms come with their own screws.
So super happy I figured this out AFTER I pulled everything back apart...lol I am a knuckle head for sure.
I have had one of the front axle's pop out of the collar twice now. I had the suspension push rod on the closest (highest ride height) hole. I moved it to the middle hole but have not run it yet. Is this a common problem? Am I doing something wrong? If these drive shafts limit my ability to change ride height I might just get the Summit axle's like the guy on YouTube suggested.
Just got my True Track rear arms in. Working on getting them installed, along with the other two steel axle's I bought.
I am not happy. The Traxxas drive shafts I bought keep popping out of place! It is making me really mad to be honest.
I do have RPM arms front and back so maybe that is why, I do not know. I do know for $60 I would not have expected to have MORE drive shaft problems than I was having before I installed the aftermarket pieces. So frustrating.
I am going to pick up my Slash tomorrow, and will be ordering 4 long summit axle's while I am there for the revo. I believe this is the MUCH better way to go. I should have listened to the guy on YouTube...lol
Super happy with the rear true track RPM arms. One less thing to worry with for a "street" guy as my local hobby shop calls it, Basher is what people here would call it.
With 18/54 and trenchers I managed to see 58 mph on the Traxxas app. I do not believe this app takes into account the somewhat large tire growth that happens, so I would be very surprised if real speed was not a bit over 60. It is completely undriveable in this condition for me on my street...lol
I was on 4S tonight and nearly hit an F-250 turning onto my street. Man I tried to stop but it caused the Revo to kart-wheel. I am super lucky I did not hit anything. Once the tires balloon up and the speed gets up there stopping or turning quickly is out of the question.
I am getting better at getting this thing up on the front wheels under braking and then getting back on the gas to keep it from flipping.
With smaller tires on 4S, or these tires on 6S I can stop quick enough to flip it and land back on the tires, or back up and then hit throttle to flip it over and back on the tires. Fun. Makes people notice for sure.
I love this Revo. It is shockingly powerful for people who have never seen a hobby level RC before.
On my speed runs I was 6S, 18/54, and 6.3 trenchers. My clutch slips very little with the stock tires, and I really like that. But with the trenchers on it the clutch slipped quite a bit. It make it very hard to get to full throttle by the mid or even 3/4 way down my street. I would keep getting to 45-50 mph and then roll into full throttle and it would flip over so fast I could not catch it. It slide's quite a ways on it's top at those speeds
I am wanting to see the 65 MPH the box says. Be a bit easier with the GPS module I am guessing. But I do not have that.
At the moment I have two stock axle's on one side of my Revo because one dog bone broke, and another slipped out. I am completely worn out...lol
I cannot wait to get the slash back and see how quick and fast it is with the same motor and ESC as the Revo has