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  1. #1
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    Thinking of going 3S

    Hi,

    So I'm thinking of going 3S on my VXL 4x4. What is the next most likely thing to break ?

    This is what I've upgraded so far.

    MIP X-duty's front and back. (on order)
    Aluminum shock caps
    TiNi shock shafts
    6893X Aluminum Bearing Adapter
    Pro-line trenchers on 2.8 despardo's.


    I'm thinking I should probably look at cooling options, and perhaps a new spur gear. What else is likely to go, upon going 3S ?

  2. #2
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    So, you got bit by the bug....

    As you probably know, the stock Velineon system is not very fond of 3S in the long run. Anyway, a cooling fan on the VXL-3s (#3340) is worth having, as is a single fan heat sink on the motor.

    Furthermore, I would get an aluminium motor mount (Traxxas #6860R, or King Headz #TRX6860T for bigger bearing), a Revo spec slipper clutch (part #5351 and #5352R) and XO-1 diffs with the I-bar support (part #3978 and #6882X). A Tekno Big Bone center driveshaft is also nice to have (#TKR6755).
    It's best to stay with the stock plastic spur gear. It's better to have a cheap weakspot in the driveline than to damage more expensive parts like diffs or the motor.
    Eventually, you will probably also end up converting to 17mm hexes and 3.2" wheels.

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    And with all of Vikings recommendations also go with a good aluminium motor plate too because it all helps with dissipating heat and making the truck stronger....peace
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  4. #4
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    A good front bumper, so crashing into stuff head on sucks less. Check out http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-N-Z/T...4x4-p1175.html or a RPM front bumper...
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  5. #5
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    Thinking of going 3S

    I'd say the next most likely thing to break would be the motor, or the hexes in the wheels will strip. Gear down to a 9t pinion, practice good throttle control, and everything should last a while.

  6. #6
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    I agree with the wheel hexes. By the way. What wrench do people use? The traxxas 17 mm wrenches are plastic and my duration one does not reach deep enough since the revolvers are offset.
    60% of the time I'm right every time.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jws1982 View Post
    I'd say the next most likely thing to break would be the motor, or the hexes in the wheels will strip. Gear down to a 9t pinion, practice good throttle control, and everything should last a while.
    They make a 9 tooth pinion?
    If a RC never breaks, your doing it wrong

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by commando5184 View Post
    They make a 9 tooth pinion?
    Yea 9t comes stock on the brushed model. My sons had it I took it off replaced with 12t. But he only runs stock battery. No S batts just yet

  9. #9
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    A 9 tooth? lol I run an 18t in my Stampede on 3s, but most of the time I am only using 2s. Its very fast on 2s and with 3s it is crazy! Have to check motor temps often on 2s as it can get too hot, but on 3s I don't have to....the ESC goes into thermal shut down way before the motor gets too hot!

  10. #10
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    I have found the smallest 32 pitch gear to be 9t. And the smallest 48 pitch gear is 12t.
    60% of the time I'm right every time.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikekoz68 View Post
    A 9 tooth? lol I run an 18t in my Stampede on 3s, but most of the time I am only using 2s. Its very fast on 2s and with 3s it is crazy! Have to check motor temps often on 2s as it can get too hot, but on 3s I don't have to....the ESC goes into thermal shut down way before the motor gets too hot!
    If the escape is hitting thermal shutdown then that is not good. I doubt that you are running 18t with the vxl motor.
    60% of the time I'm right every time.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimdog View Post
    If the escape is hitting thermal shutdown then that is not good. I doubt that you are running 18t with the vxl motor.
    +1 you are asking for trouble dude I would try 10-11t pinion max if its the 2 pole.....peace
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  13. #13
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    I have a Castle 3800KV motor, MIP's, and aluminum shock caps. I did not change any bearings except an errant wheel bearing here and there if they fell apart. When I went to 3S it didn't take long to strip the rear hexes. I like to get on it though, wheelies all the time . I have 3.2 wheels and 17mm adapters now but haven't had time to mount them yet. Not sure how the stock motor and ESC will do but I guess you'll find out soon enough .

  14. #14
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    I think that you'll need aluminum hexes, motor heatsink and you should be fine, maybe a center differential

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRX_Turbo View Post
    I think that you'll need aluminum hexes, motor heatsink and you should be fine, maybe a center differential
    No sir on the center diff. Aluminum clutch pads or e revo slipper clutch assembly

  16. #16
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    Heat will be your biggest enemy with the stock VXL system on 3S. I'd go 9-11 tooth gear to start and add alum. motor mount/motor plate and a fan (remember it's not waterproof if that's a concern). Hexes are good idea too - I've ran the MIP steel hexes with Talons, Trenchers and Badlands and have never stripped out a wheel using MMP with Castle 1415 3800 - be diligent to keep the nuts tight.

  17. #17
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    OP here.. Even on 2S, its too hot.... I think since lowering my chassis and putting on the pro-line trenchers on 2.8 desparado's, that's done enough as it is on heat. with the extra rubber to move and less air movement under the now lower chassis. My motor was too hot to touch yesterday for more than maybe one sec. I do not have a heat gun so unable to give exact temps, but i immediately felt heat coming off from it, so went in for the touch...

    Worried about frying my equip.. I may switch back to the Talons until i can get a fan.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedoc46 View Post
    OP here.. Even on 2S, its too hot.... I think since lowering my chassis and putting on the pro-line trenchers on 2.8 desparado's, that's done enough as it is on heat. with the extra rubber to move and less air movement under the now lower chassis. My motor was too hot to touch yesterday for more than maybe one sec. I do not have a heat gun so unable to give exact temps, but i immediately felt heat coming off from it, so went in for the touch...

    Worried about frying my equip.. I may switch back to the Talons until i can get a fan.
    I think 3s with the stock system is a no no, as Jws82 stated, the motor maybe the next to go.
    I see so many people wanting 3s then having heat issues until its time for a new system.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I live in the UK so lower overall temperatures and I ran my vxl on 2-3s with 11-13t pinions and it lasted about 18 months before it melted and that was with running 2 fans.....peace
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede4x4owner View Post
    No sir on the center diff. Aluminum clutch pads or e revo slipper clutch assembly
    Well I had stock slipper clutch on lipo 3s and had alot of issues, changed to center diff problem solve

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRX_Turbo View Post
    Well I had stock slipper clutch on lipo 3s and had alot of issues, changed to center diff problem solve
    your the only person I've read on here that hasn't had a center diff issue with 3s.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimdog View Post
    If the escape is hitting thermal shutdown then that is not good. I doubt that you are running 18t with the vxl motor.
    I'm definitely using an 18tooth pinion, counted the teeth myself! It's the regular 2pole Velineon motor and it runs great on 2s, the esc has a fan and never gets hot, though the motor definitely does. I only run 3s for a few speed runs & very light bashing and just for 5mins or so -or like I said until the esc goes into thermal.

  23. #23
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    If u let the esc go into thermal shutdown often it's not gonna last your motor will go too.

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Catastrophic meltdown is on the cards if you keep running your truck like that bro.....peace
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede4x4owner View Post
    If u let the esc go into thermal shutdown often it's not gonna last your motor will go too.
    So are you saying every time it goes into thermal shut down(stage 1 not stage2) it harms the esc? I thought the purpose of the stage 1 cut off to low power is to prevent damage to the esc. Remember I'm talking about the first stage where it cuts power to 50%, not the second stage when it actually shuts down.

  26. #26
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    Yeah that's what I'm telling you, temp is still to hot. I asked when I first bought the truck esc don't go over 125 or its not gonna last ask anyone on here

  27. #27
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    True words dude ......peace
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    True words dude ......peace
    Thanks sir.

  29. #29
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    Every time I run my spc 3s something breaks or strip my wheels or something gets in my way Lol
    <P4de VXL|Castle 3800kv|MM2|MIP|STRC|Proline|SPC>

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    That's because those packs kick out plenty of power which is not a bad thing.....peace
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  31. #31
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    For 3s I would recommend a cooling fan on the ESC and Motor.

    You will also then find you will need metal Drive shafts.!

  32. #32
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    I do have a fan on my ESC but it still goes into thermal on 3s all the time. It never has on 2s though, but on 2s I have to watch my motor temps because it can hit 180F and that's when I cool it down.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikekoz68 View Post
    I do have a fan on my ESC but it still goes into thermal on 3s all the time. It never has on 2s though, but on 2s I have to watch my motor temps because it can hit 180F and that's when I cool it down.
    Considering the stock pinion is 11t and you're using an 18t, that is probably your issue. What tires/wheels are you running?

  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    When running that high gearing it doesn't matter what wheel and tyre combo it's going to get crazy hot.......peace
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  35. #35
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    So what is the safest pinion with the 3s? Im not very good with which sizes do what to the temp and adds speed or torque? I have all the other upgrades but i never changed my pinion size.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaybird43 View Post
    So what is the safest pinion with the 3s? Im not very good with which sizes do what to the temp and adds speed or torque? I have all the other upgrades but i never changed my pinion size.

    More teeth on the pinion or less teeth on the spur and you'll have a higher top end speed. Less teeth on the pinion and more teeth on the spur you'll have less top end, but a faster take off and a bit more torque.

    Think of it as shifting gears on a bike. The gears at the crank is your pinion and the gears at the rear wheel is your spur. 1st gear is easy to pedal (less work=less heat) and get started but cant go very fast. 21st gear is alot harder to pedal (more work=more heat) and to get started, but can go faster once you get going.

    Hope this help you out...
    Last edited by Hirschowl; 08-09-2014 at 09:38 AM.
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  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Just stick between 9-11t pinion dude if running 3s and check temps every 10 minutes or soand that's with a temperature gun not your fingers lol.......peace
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