Hey fellows I just bought my first traxxas Spartan and I have a question. Can anyone tell me the proper way to lubricate the drive flex cable?
Ok thanks I'll check it out. I'm also thinking about putting a seaking 180a esc and a castle 1515 2200kv motor in it. Any thoughts or advice about that?
I have looked at those too but to be honest I don't really know what would be best. I don't want to slow my boat down but I want something that is reliable. I have looked at so many but just not sure what to get. Would 1600 kv or 1800 kv or 2200 kv be better? Also would 180 amp or 200 amp be better?
I run the leopard 4082 1600kv in both boats with the 180A ESC. We have hundreds of runs with this set up. Very fast and reliable with plenty of torque. Remember the KV will only tell you the rpm a motor will run and does not tell you the torque or power of a motor.
Ok two more questions . Will the leopard 4082 motor bolt up to the traxxas Spartan mount and what brand 180 esc do you run?
I agree with SJS regarding the reliability of the leopard 4082 and SK180 ESC.
I ran both setups in two different Spartans.
SK180 ESC with CC1515 2200kv motor, .078 wire drive, and X442 prop. (water jackets are available but can be difficult to source)
- This setup proved to be reliable running 4S and 5S only.
- I never ran 6S on this setup because I had previously fried an SK180 ESC running a leopard 4074 2000kv motor on 6S and did not want a repeat.
SK180 ESC with Leopard 4082 1600kv motor, .187 flex cable, and P220 prop. Running 6S
- Very reliable setup
- Motor has the necessary torque to run larger props to compensate for lower kv rating
- Parts readily available.
Although I had success with both setups, I would still recommend the 4082 leopard 180 ESC combo over the CC1515.
And yes, either motor is direct bolt up to the component tray.
Bdlowe, The video shows the maintenance on a V1 Spartan. With the V2 Spartan Traxxas gives you marine grade grease rather than oil. Being you're new to boating (if you wanted), I could do a Post on Spartan maintenance from a ReglarDude view point. I seen your post the other day, so when I had to do my maintenance I took pictures of me doing it.
Last edited by ReglarDude; 07-19-2014 at 05:43 AM.
Ok thanks that would be cool
Ok now can some one explain to me the difference between a inrunner and a outrunner motor? And also how do you change the timing on an esc and how do you know what to set it to? I told you I was new at this stuff.
The brushless I inrunner motor is where the magnets are on the shell and the rotor is in the center. An outrunner is where the rotor is on the outside and the magnets are on the inside. From what I've read, outrunner motors are great for lower speeds but I don't know about higher speeds. There still less popular so that its hard to find good info to describe the differences. I would suggest them in a rc car but a boat maybe but they're perfect for plane's as they stay alot cooler and can be nicer. I don't know the how many poles they have or anything else like that. Its still foreign to me. I will be getting one for my Spartan jet boat build and will give a review.
Spartan Jet Boat
Ok now I understand. Thanks for the info. I bought a leopard 4082 motor and a atomik 180A esc. The esc is just like the seaking only with the atomik name on it. What do I need to set the timing on this esc? I'm gonna test run it this evening for the first time so I'll let y'all know how it goes.
The easiest way to program the ESC is with a programing card, they can be purchased for about $6-10 for the seaking. As long as you are certain the Atomik ESC is a re-badged seaking, the programming card will work.
You can program using your Tx, but the programming card is well worth the few dollars, IMO
I would suggest setting timing at 0, or at a low setting like 3-4, and let the ESC control timing for you.
You can play around with higher timing settings if you want, but in my experience they made little or no difference to overall performance. If you are competition racing, maybe you could gain that 1/2 second needed to win a race, but for sport boating a low setting will be fine.
There are different wire wind types in brushless motors. Wye wind (Y) and Delta wind (D). Y wind motors will handle high timing settings with out issue, D wind motors do not, and too high timing setting can damage the motor.
The Leopard 4082 is available in both Y and D wind, and if you are not certain which yours is, low timing settings is the safe way to proceed.
okay so I'm a little disappointed.an atomik 180A ESC and a leopard 4082 1600kv motor and my boat runs just a little bit slower.the ESC is factory defaulted to 15 degrees and is adjustable from 0 to 26 degrees an 8 step increments.it will only let me adjust it from 0 to 15 degrees.the motor and ESC work really well my wires however are getting extremely hot.any thoughts from anyone on how to solve this problem?
It will be a bit slower than the stock 1800kv motor if you are running the same prop.
Installing a slightly higher pitch prop, like the Prather P220 will recover pretty much all the loss in speed.
Which wires are getting hot? battery to ESC, or ESC to motor?
Ok I will try the prop thanks hog. Can you explain the prop numbers for me? I know that different pitches change speed and tourqe but how do I know what pitch the stock prop is compared to the P220 you suggested? The wires between the batteries and the esc are the ones that are getting hot. I put a GPS on it this weekend and I got 47 MPH out of it.
Sorry for delay responding, been away for several days.
Check your wire sizing on batteries, and connectors. Sounds like you have a resistance problem. I don't know what you are running for batteries, but some econo brand batteries over state the C rating, and the batteries are not built to actually deliver as promised.
47 mph is good speed on your setup. We were running pretty consistently 47-49 with the P220, only occasionaly breaking the 50 mph mark.
There are lots of good prop charts available on line.
Octura props are pretty straight forward. Take a 442 for example.
- the first number is the pitch multiplier, the next two numbers are diameter in mm.
- so 42mm diameter (last two numbers)
- times 1.4 the diameter = pitch in mm
- 42x1.4=58.8mm pitch
The stock prop is 42mm diameter 59mm pitch, so an X442 is essentially a metal equivelent to the stock prop.
Prather props are not as straight forward, I usually reference a chart when needed. I believe the P220 is approx. 41.5mm diameter and 62mm pitch (or something close to that) Just slightly smaller diameter, but higher pitch.
More pitch will theoretically give you more speed, more diameter will give you more "traction" or a better "hole shot". It will accelarate and get on plane better from a standing start, or coming out of a tight corner.
Increasing pitch or diameter will add load.
There are many more factors that affect the performance of a prop. the shape and design of the blades, metal props won't flex like a composite prop, etc etc.
But pitch and diameter are a good start for basics.
Last edited by hog; 07-29-2014 at 11:46 PM.
Ok I completely rewired the boat. new ec5 connectors and 10 awg wire.Ever is running great. Temp is down and doing good. I have not tried the prop yet but hope to soon. Thanks to everyone for all of the help. This is a great forum.