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  1. #1
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    Considering a slash 2wd - sense check

    Last year I bought both of my boys, now 11 and 15, each their own Stampede. Basic 2wd models, NiMH battery with extra 5000mAH NiMH batteries and fast chargers. After much pressure from the boys (and replacing of many broken parts) they have talked me into buying my own RC car. Wanting something on-par but different just for the sake of being different I'm leaning heavily towards the Slash. I'm also thinking I should go with the no batteries included model and buy a LiPO battery or two and LiPO charger. I'm not worried about speed, at least for now, just looking for longer run times. Logically it would seem to me that a 5000mAH battery is a 5000mAH battery, and whether it's NiMH or LiPO wouldn't change the run time, but what I've read seems to say the opposite.

    If it helps, typical use will be a mix of street, grass, and occasional dirt RC playground. If I need to I'll switch to larger Stampede sized tires, but for now I'm not looking for a list of upgrades. I'll replace parts with upgrades when I break them. The only racing I'll be doing is against my kids. I'm also looking to keep the costs down so I'll be sticking to the base model Slash/Stampede price range plus LiPO batteries (assuming they are worth the extra cost).

    Other than what I've read over the weekend, I'm clueless about RC cars. Heck, a few days ago I didn't know what basher/bashing meant. I don't know what I don't know... Does what I wrote above sound reasonable? Words of advice, suggestions or alternatives I should consider?

  2. #2
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    Slash is a great way to go, as the Slash is just a stretched out Stampede-- so most of your spare parts will work for both models. You'll probably end up putting Pede tires on it sooner than later, though. A stock HCG Slash with Pede-size tires is extremely fun to drive-- the longer wheelbase take away the wheelie-happy nature in favor of much better handling and a whole lot less flipping over.

    Side note, if you put Pede front-offset rims all the way around on a Slash, you will have almost perfectly even wheel track, no other parts required.

  3. #3
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    Lipo packs ARE worth the cost. They dont "fade" while running them. Your truck will have the same speed/power throughout your run. They dont have charge memory so you dont have the worry of them losing the ability to take a full charge.

    Correctly charged , discharged and stored Lipo is heads and shoulders above other batteries.
    Give the batteries at SPC a shot. Reasonably priced, plenty of punch and a wide range of options IE mAh C rating

    As for the Slash... What a truck! Massive aftermarket, durable as they come, a wicked blast to drive, and you can convert it to a buggy to a MT to a backslash the mods are endless.
    Race em Clean em Wrench em Repeat...

  4. #4
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    Like he said the slash is pretty much just longer pede with a longer and wider body. It won't wheelie like the pede, but that gets old after s while anyways. I converted both my traxxas vehicles to slashes after about a year. Oh yeah since you have experience with the rtf models. Now you can buy a roller and add your own upgraded electronics. Get the castle sct 3800kv combo. I'd also got with smc or spc lipo batts

  5. #5
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    Great info guys, that helps me feel better about the Slash - especially the shared spare parts with the Stampede. We break a lot of parts. Kids and newbs probably shouldn't be running full speed down paved streets with curbs, but at least there is a well stocked RC store 10 minutes away.

    For the LiPO batteries, if they don't fade how do you know when to change batteries? Just drive it until it stops? As I understand it, the Slash and Stampede have low voltage protection, so running it until it's dead should be safe right? I know I need 2s for the right voltage, and MaH is just how long the battery will last, but I kinda don't get what the C rating is. Or more to the point, for just bashing around with the kids do I even care about C rating?

    As far as bigger wheels/tires - are you saying I can safely buy two pair of any Stampede fronts and be good? No worrying about offsets, nut sizes, wheel sizes, adapters or whatever else I don't know to look for? I guess I can just steal the fronts of my boy's trucks and test it.

    skmfkr - Sorry, but I'm a total noob with RC stuff, I don't understand half of what you just said. I got the wheelie part (hate that) and you converting your trucks to the Slash setup, but then you lost me. I think you're saying I can or should buy an incomplete kit and build the rest? Are smp and spc battery brands I should look for? Building my own, upgrading electronics, brushless motor, custom suspension/drive line parts etc. are all off the table for now. I just want a decent quality ready to run RC truck with good batteries and possibly larger tires. I'll upgrade the parts I break along the way, but for now all that other stuff is beyond what I'm after.

  6. #6
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    "For the LiPO batteries, if they don't fade how do you know when to change batteries? Just drive it until it stops? As I understand it, the Slash and Stampede have low voltage protection, so running it until it's dead should be safe right? I know I need 2s for the right voltage, and MaH is just how long the battery will last, but I kinda don't get what the C rating is. Or more to the point, for just bashing around with the kids do I even care about C rating?"

    Yes the Slash and PEde will cut power to the ESC when you are hitting low levels. Throw in another pack (after checking temps) and youre off again. If youre pulling an all day run, get two packs and charge while youre running.

    C rating is discharge rate. Or continuous rate. 25C =25amps with a burst of 50amps <<usually. Some packs may have a 50C with only a 60amp burst. Typically though the burst rate is twice that of the continuous rating.The higher the rating the quicker youll empty your pack but the more "punch" you will have.
    For just bashing youll find 20-25C perfect. If you decide to race youll want 50C or higher.

    "I just want a decent quality ready to run RC truck with good batteries and possibly larger tires. I'll upgrade the parts I break along the way"

    The Slash will deliver.

    "there is a well stocked RC store 10 minutes away."

    Just what Mrs Skeptic wants to hear!! lol
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  7. #7
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    Make sure u turn low voltage protection on if u don't u will over discharge the lipo pack. I love my slash awesome car look into the lcg chassis that trx makes that will minimize flipping
    Is it fast enough? No, no it isn't.

  8. #8
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    Just so I don't buy the wrong thing here, this is the battery I want and this is where I need to buy it? http://spcracingbatteries.com/index....&product_id=56

    I don't really know what 50C means, but I do know that given the option I'd rather have something that runs cooler and perhaps lasts a bit longer than something that is a touch faster but has a risk of overheating. The traxxas brand batteries for the Slash are 25C rated, hence my question.

    Oh, one last thing I need to find before I start ordering stuff - suggestions on an inexpensive (not necessarily cheap) charger that will charge the batteries relatively quickly but also let me plug-in and forget?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zakary View Post
    Make sure u turn low voltage protection on if u don't u will over discharge the lipo pack. I love my slash awesome car look into the lcg chassis that trx makes that will minimize flipping
    You have to turn on low voltage protection, it's not an automatic thing? Thanks for the heads up, not sure if I would have figured that out on my own... Of course I'll read through the manual when I get my car, but things like this sound important enough to point out.

    I've been poking around a bit and seen a number of threads praising the lcg chassis. It's in the back of my mind as a down-the-road thing, but for now I'm just starting out and looking for options to minimize "wasting" money such as buying a kit without batteries and starting with LiPOs.

  10. #10
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    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

    these are rollers. basically everything you need except rx tx servo body esc and motor and a batt. instead of buying a rtr and then spending more money upgrading the electronics. but i see you dont want to do that which i understand. just throwing that out there

    http://www.smc-racing.net/
    http://www.spcracingbatteries.com/
    those are the batts alot of ppl on here use.
    Last edited by skmfkr; 07-07-2014 at 05:40 PM.

  11. #11
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    I have the traxxas easy peak plus 6 amp and it works great and will charge everything a roller might be a nice thing to look into my stock esc and motor stayed in for about 2 days before I put a mamba max pro esc and 2400kv motor in it but this system is over powered in this truck I just did it for the excessive power I would suggest the sidewinder sct combo I got an rtr slash that did not come with batts cause I was gonna run 3s anyway the traxxas batts are also great but are more expensive but not by much go with spc
    Is it fast enough? No, no it isn't.

  12. #12
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    I have had my slash for just over a month now and its been awesome. Its a vxl model, stock truck. Its been a durable truck. The only thing I have done was buying 2 2s lipo onyx batteries and get great run times. If we run on the track I get about a 1 1/2 hours run time on each battery, but this is running about half throttle, bashing I get about a hour out of each battery. I say buy a slash, wont reget it. What's good is the aftermarket has tons of stuff out there for it.

  13. #13
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    ^^ that is some pretty sick run times no matter how ya look at it. I get a max of 20-25 minutes out of a 5000mAH 50C 2S and I bash like I stole it!!
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  14. #14
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    Orders placed. Slash 2wd - random color, I'd prefer the blue/silver but any color is fine. 2 x SPC 5000mAH 2s lipo batteries. Traxxas EZ-Peak charger.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeptic View Post
    Orders placed. Slash 2wd - random color, I'd prefer the blue/silver but any color is fine. 2 x SPC 5000mAH 2s lipo batteries. Traxxas EZ-Peak charger.
    Good choices. You go with the VXL or XL-5? Don't buy upgrades until you break something. Have fun and keep us posted on your new hobby.
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  16. #16
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    XL-5. Just something to bash around with my boys and their base model Stampedes. I wanted something a little different, but similar.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeptic View Post
    XL-5. Just something to bash around with my boys and their base model Stampedes. I wanted something a little different, but similar.
    You will like it for sure. But, if you are like most RC guys the bug will bite hard and you want more out of it...Enter brushless. Make sure you break that Titan 12t in http://traxxas.com/support/Brief-bre...itan-12T-motor
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  18. #18
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    Nice choices! I have those packs and they have been great!

    +1 on breaking in that brushed motor.
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  19. #19
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    In my book, not an upgrade, but a necessity... alum c-blocks. I am sure your boys have broken some, and they took some steering kingpins with it. It is the only alum part I will ever recommend throwing on before running the truck.

    Being that you are very new to the hobby, it may be best to buy an rtr instead of building up from a roller. I would suggest the vxl model, due to the increased durability of the vxl motor over the xl5 version. But... also check out the slash 4x4. It is modernly built much better than the 2wd, and the price difference between them is not that big.

    SPC is a great company to deal with. Tom and Janice are awesome.
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  20. #20
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    aluminum c-blocks? I had to google that and yes, they have broken those. My oldest broke and replaced one Friday. Replaced it with a supposedly stronger RPM version and non-clip (screw in) pins.

  21. #21
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    The rpm ones flex more than the stock parts. While the rpm ones will stop the breaking, they will flex so much that the king pins will either bend, or pop out of the top of the c block, then bend. Check those king pins often.

    The alum blocks will keep the pin straight and in place. Next time you go for c-blocks, get alum. Hot racing sells a good set. Have been using them for 4 years without issue:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing-T...item2c86b8f278
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  22. #22
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    +1

    This upgrade is so essential that I would like to see Traxxas fit them as stock and increase the price of the trucks. You end up buying alum ones and new king pins.

    I also upgrade all my vehicles on this platform with STRC aluminum bulkheads and hardened steel locking hinge pins before driving them. Otherwise I just bend the inner front hinge pins as the stock bulkhead flexes too much in impacts despite the fibreglass brace.
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  23. #23
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    Yes castor blocks are a must. My 1st break was the steering knuckle, it attaches to castor block. STRC is what you want when you upgrade the hinge pins, no more e clips.

  24. #24
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    Kid broke the castor block Friday, and the steering knuckle Sunday. I suspect what really happened is he broke the c block AND cracked the steering knuckle at the same time, but the damage to the knuckle went unnoticed. I was watching when he broke the knuckle, it was a very non-violent collision into the back of his brothers car - it had to have been damaged already.

    Ok ok, I'll fess up, my conscience is killing me. It was me that broke my kids car on Friday. Full speed going down the road to see if I could catch up to a car that just drove by.. I did - then hit a curb at full speed.

  25. #25
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    I KNEW IT!!!

    I really like the alum c/rpm bearing carrier combo. Sure the carriers wear out eventually, but they can last years...
    Last edited by rag6; 07-08-2014 at 11:43 AM.
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  26. #26
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    Great info but now my head is spinning.

    Just to keep things simple, as things break and I replace them. Is there an easy guideline or list of parts that should be replaced with metal and those that are fine with plastic RPM parts?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeptic View Post
    Great info but now my head is spinning.

    Just to keep things simple, as things break and I replace them. Is there an easy guideline or list of parts that should be replaced with metal and those that are fine with plastic RPM parts?
    I replaced steering knuckles, castor blocks, bellcrank and rear hubs with TRX aluminum. A-arms ( front/rear), shock towers, front bumper/skid plate and motor case with RPM. Parts that flex like a-arms keep plastic. You may pop a shock cap off many people add aluminum caps. I went the aluminum shock route with Powerstrokes. My axles/driveshafts broke to so those got replaced with MIP's. Like others said, the mods list is endless and it can be expensive. Keep reading the forum you'll figure parts out quickly. I remember not wanting to open up the trans now it's easy as pie.

  28. #28
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    Not open the trans? Now I'm wondering if I should even open the box when it arrives...


    Look at the pretty car... Don't touch! It's just for looking at.

  29. #29
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    I got a Slash as my first hobby grade RC car a few months ago, and with the stock 3000mah NiMH I'm getting around half an hour on loose dirt if I'm not going full-throttle the whole time a LiPo is of course going to do much better.
    Last edited by SlashPassing; 07-08-2014 at 02:28 PM.

  30. #30
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    That's a great way to start out in this hobby with the slash and two lipos. I started with a stampede and then a slash and I love them both for different reasons. If you have the chance to try out a track with the slash, it's a lot of fun. As for upgrades, I wouldn't rush out to buy anything more yet. I run my slash pretty hard and I haven't broken many parts in the first year. I did upgrade shocks to power strokes and just put in the lcg chassis, but that was more just for fun and the added performance on the track. Good luck and have fun.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeptic View Post
    Not open the trans? Now I'm wondering if I should even open the box when it arrives...


    Look at the pretty car... Don't touch! It's just for looking at.
    Half of the fun is racing/bashing the other half is wrenching. The therapy you get from spending a couple hours here and there is like nothing else. You touch that car bumper to bumper every screw every part and you will know the ins and outs of EVERYTHING about it. You will then become another "answer man" around here. Youll also have a finely tuned RC.

    I LOVE my Slash. I love RC period. I started racing carpet just under a month ago and have a TC4 thats 4wd and has a lot more screws and moving parts. Already have had both differentials open and have basically built off a chassis. She's almost a contender. Once it's tuned and i know everything bumper to bumper i'll make some noise in my class.

    Dont be afraid to ask questions here or even visit Youtube for how to videos. Trust me...youll feel like a full on one man pit crew AND YOU GET TO DRIVE IT!!! Get your kids involved with the tuning and maintenance It may seem intimidating but you have a fantastic forum to lean on. Keep us posted!!

    should have added... (sorry mods)
    You can replace NOW the parts that are likely to fail. Or replace as you break. The suggestions above are pretty complete.
    I chose to upgrade before failure, others dont, personal choice
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 07-08-2014 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Merge - please use the edit function
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  32. #32
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    My 15 year old is now the RC mechanic. At first I helped him (him watching me), and now he does the fixing on his and his brother's cars. I'll do the work on my car as soon as I start breaking things. So far everything has been easy and straight forward. I don't think I'm going to upgrade anything or buy any spare parts for now. As I mentioned, I have a well stocked RC store 10 minutes away and their prices seem to be the same as online prices. Plus I'd rather support a local store as long as their prices are reasonable.

  33. #33
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    i usually goto my lhs for small stuff, but some of the other more expensive stuff like $10 or more really i goto ebay or amazon. the small stuff usually costs more online after shipping

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    The rpm ones flex more than the stock parts. While the rpm ones will stop the breaking, they will flex so much that the king pins will either bend, or pop out of the top of the c block, then bend. Check those king pins often.

    The alum blocks will keep the pin straight and in place. Next time you go for c-blocks, get alum. Hot racing sells a good set. Have been using them for 4 years without issue:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing-T...item2c86b8f278
    You guys are dead on about the castor blocks. My kid's new RPM plastic castor block is junk. Ok, junk might be a bit rough but it's too flexible for my kid's driving style (occasional curb smacking). Now it's slightly warped so the pin will not stay in at the top at all, as well as bending a pin.

    The big question for tomorrow's trip to the RC store is whether I buy one set of aluminum c-blocks or three. I hate the idea of buying 3 sets of every upgrade, but for this one I might have to bite the bullet.

  35. #35
    RC Champion Mr Wolf's Avatar
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    Frankly, I don't see aluminum caster blocks as optional, they're essential. Take comfort from the fact that you won't break them or a king pin ever again (well, I haven't anyway!)
    Pretty please, with sugar on top, clean the RC car

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