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  1. #1
    RC Enthusiast
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    Jun 2014
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    Bought used T-Maxx @ garage sale; opinions

    I bought a used T-Maxx with the 2.5 engine at a garage sale for $130 (talked him down from $150), and would like opinions. I'm sure I could part it out and make back most of what I paid if it requires too much work. I know it will require more investment, and buying any beat up used nitro truck would require investment.

    I'll upload pictures later.

    Looks like it needs a lot of work. Says it's been two years since it's ran. Shocks still have oil. Diffs appear to still work. The spur gear spins freely, along with the pinion and the clutch. Might be a tranny problem. It shouldn't spin freely, right? Tried moving the shifter servo back and forth, nothing seems to engage. It has a blue anodized chassis plate, with custom aluminum skid plates. Rest of suspension components seem to be stock (arms, linkages, shocks, towers, etc.) Rims are mounted with no tires. Second set of rims with tires with the nut cutout stripped. Wire going to the gloplug seems to be fraying.

    Body is cracked and needs to be replaced, but it serves as a "thrash around body."

    Came with an extra 2.5 engine, from his friend who upgraded to the 3.3. Extra starter w/ starter gearbox. Steering servo is off the truck and in a box. Two mounted servos are unplugged, which leads me to believe there's no receiver in the receiver box. Comes with fuel bottle, transmitter, EZ start, with battery and charger.

    Any opinions are welcome, positive and negative! I know you can't do much without pictures, I'll get those uploaded ASAP!

  2. #2
    RC Enthusiast
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    Dec 2012
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    Get a hold of both the scamatics and user manual, both should be on traxxas website and go through it part by part!
    Rustler VXL, Stampede 2.5, T-Maxx 3.3

  3. #3
    RC Champion
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    Jan 2001
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    I really don't think you did too bad as parts for these trucks are mostly inexpensive and available almost anywhere. as far as your transmission "problem" is concerned I really don't see a problem as there are centrifugal clutches for forward and reverse gears. meaning you must increase engine rpm to move the truck this results in a notchy engagement. most guys will install a forward only conversion kit for smoother engagement. as long as the engine and electronics are in good shape you should be fine. pics please
    impeach obama!

  4. #4
    RC Enthusiast
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    Jun 2014
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    I cross posted this on the RCGroups.com forums, lemme copy and paste that post, and ill supply pictures.

    Alright some much needed pictures. Last night I put some batteries in the transmitter and receiver pack, and all three servos still work, although the linkages for the throttle and brake need to be adjusted. I could determine that just by looking at it. Looks like the screw for the servo-saver sheared off, although the other end is not inside the servo, so that's good. I plan on taking it to my dad's next weekend, he has the bench space and tools.

    I also plan on picking up some basics from my LHS, diff fluid, shock oil, some all purpose cleaner, and maybe some Nitro fuel. I also plan on ordering a complete hex-screw set for this truck, as a bunch of the phillips-head screws are corroded and borderline stripped. Looks like I might need some new rims and tires. There is a glued set, but the hex cutouts are almost stripped. Looks like they put some epoxy or something in the cutout to "reform" the shape. The rims that are on the truck don't have tires. The shocks surprisingly still have oil, but the shafts are a little dirty. Is there a good way to clean them without scratching them?

    This truck definitely needs a lot of TLC, but If I can get it cleaned and running like new, I consider it a good investment as my first nitro truck, considering the abundance of parts. My most recent experience is with my dad's two original RC10's, his Tamiya Midnight Pumpkin, and Wild Willy.

    (This was posted later)
    Just bought a bunch of stuff off Ebay to aid in my rebuild of this truck. I got a new 4-AA holder for the receiver box (not investing in a 5-Cell NIMH till I know it runs), A new antenna tube, a fuel tank rebuild kit, a new EZ start wiring kit, a new power box wiring/switch kit, a Dynamite Big Daddy fuel filter, and a set of 17mm splined hex wheel apapters from Integy.

    After payday I'll pick up some wheel and tires, some diff oil and shock oil from my LHS. I also plan on ordering a screw kit from Tony's Screws.

    (Pictures should be clickable to view higher res)



















  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
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    Nov 2011
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    Pa
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    If the engine fires and servos work you got a decent deal. If not, I'd part it out. A good cleaning and lube bearings is required. Any nitro cleaner or Krud Kutter will work
    uh oh.... that didn't sound good

  6. #6
    RC Enthusiast
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    Jun 2014
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    The truck sat for two years without the engine being fired, so I'll find out in the coming weeks. I've wanted a T-Maxx for the past decade or so, so if this engine doesn't fire, I'll probably still keep the platform and replace parts as necessary.

    Does anyone know if the the 3.3 is a direct drop in engine, or does it require a new tranny? Can the plastic shafts handle the 3.3?

  7. #7
    RC Racer
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    Jan 2014
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    The 3.3 is a direct drop in but you'll definitely be snapping those older style shafts.

  8. #8
    RC Champion
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    Feb 2012
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    I would say just put a 2.5r motor in it if the motor doesn't fire. The 3.3 is just too much for the older tmaxx trucks.

  9. #9
    RC Racer
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    Feb 2014
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    3.3 in a older style maxx is fun 2nd gear wheelies but troy is right you will snap the old shafts.

  10. #10
    Traxxas Employee TireSlinger's Avatar
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    Sep 2010
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    570
    Upgrade to the transmission to the Revo-Spec slipper (Kit part number: 5351X) and adjust it properly to protect the driveline with 3.3 power. You'll still break stuff, but the newer slipper design allows you to run a looser setting without so much risk of melting the spur gear.

    Truck needs some TLC but give it some attention and I'm sure it'll be a great vehicle for you.

  11. #11
    RC Racer
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    Jan 2014
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    237
    If you upgrade to the 3.3 the newr style outer shafts will be a necessity (will also need the newer style carriers). Those things will twist right apart. As for the center shafts, they will last longer. I have the 4909 3.3 maxx and when I had the stock center shafts id snap one every once in a while. To solve that just get traxxas's steel shafts off of eBay for $30. Make sure you get the ones for short chassis.

  12. #12
    RC Enthusiast
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    Jun 2014
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    Spent a lot of time on the truck this weekend. Rebuilt and cleaned the engine (no new Internals). Gaskets were in decent shape. Put new wiring on the truck, along with rims, tires, and 17mm hub adapters from Integy.

    I killed one NiCD pack trying to start the thin