I just picked up my Spartan from a guy on craigslist last week for $180!! It has the castle electronics and it is overall great condition. Seller also gave me the 7cell nimhs so I believe that he never ran it with lipos.
Anyways, I just received my new aluminum water jacket from OSE today. Before installing it I pulled the fittings off of it and noticed that the holes in the center screw were a little small so I opened them up to about 3mm. I was under the assumptiom that this would help the water flow better but tonite when I ran it I wasnt seeing any water comming out of the outlet.
Everything is sealed tight, there are no leaks at any of the connections and I can blow air thru the whole system so Im sure that nothing is clogged.
Only thing I can think is that im not getting the needed pressure now since the pickup in the rudder is so small. Maybe if I drill the rudder out or upgrade to the dual pickup rudder and use larger i.d. line ill see the water flowing again?? Not sure.
Also, by touch, the motor seems to be getting water for cooling because it feels about the same temp as with stock jacket maybe a little cooler, even after 15 mins on 6s
Thanks in advance.
The cooling system is flow through, so opening up the fittings on the cooling jacket will not impede the flow. i.e. There is no internal, or back pressure, required for the system to work. Less back pressure is better.
Depending on wind, boat speed, how familiar you are with how much water typically exits the outlet, etc. I have noticed times when there didn't appear to be any water flow, but it turned out the stream was just being broken up into a spray and was difficult to see amid all other water splashing about.
I found this happened most commonly when wind was brisk, or at high boat speed.
I had aftermarket water outlets that shot straight out. If memory serves the oem Spartan outlets direct the water rearward which would make it even more difficult to see.
Try cruising by at a moderate speed and see if the stream is more visible.
Last edited by hog; 06-07-2014 at 12:12 AM.
Thanks hog but I did cruise by pretty quick and it appeared that nothing was comming out. When I ran her a few days ago with the stock jacket I could clearly see the water exiting even at a distance.
Im thinking maybe because of the small inlet its not feeding as fast as its exiting so maybe its just dribbling out now.
Im going to try opening up the rudder inlet in the morning amd see what happens. And in the near future im going to step it up to the 5" dual inlet rudder.
Dual rudder is the way to go. You want as much water flowing through there as possible. Keeps everything nice and cool.
Glad to see you're still with us Hog !!!
uh oh.... that didn't sound good
Dual rudder is definatly in my future.
Planned to take her out again today so while the lipos were charging I decided to mod the stock rudder myself. Used a small round file on a drill and opened up the inlet a little bit and also removed the fitting from the top and drilled that out a little aswell. Also sharpened the rudder while I was at it.
Anyways, today on a calmer pond I was able to see pleanty of water flowing out of the outlet even at low speeds.
I dont think my rudder mods had a hile lot to do with it but more a case of the choppy river I was running on yesterday. I do think it helped some though because the motor today only felt around 100' to touch. That was only on 4s though. Im waiting on my 3s lipos to finish charging right now and ill see how that goes
I really don't think the dual rudder helps any. Correct me if I'm wrong but motor temp safe range is in 110F which my motor usually stays in even on 6S Lipo (unless excessive throttle). The hottest I have EVER gotten my motor is 120F and thats still safe range. IMO I don't think the rudder is worth the trouble. Also the rudder will have some trouble picking up water at high speeds, so I will do a speed pass then a slower pass to cool everything.
37” Fightercat Shocker
Took her out on 6s and all went well. Temps stayed pretty low to the touch. Not much warmer than on 4s. I was able to run full throttle for a few passes and according to my gps I hit 49.2 mph.
PowerDemon, most people (from what I have read) say that the longer 5 inch rudder also helps to eliminate the chine walk so my intentions for the rudder were to kill two birds... separate cooling lines for the motor and esc and to help with the c.w. Id be satisfied if the dual rudder cooled atleast as good as the stock rudder.
That is definitely a pro as well as increased low speed turning ability... But for me its not worth drilling four new holes in my transom
37” Fightercat Shocker
That dual port rudder mod is a really good mod. I have to say, it works great. When I put it in, I only had to drill 2 holes. One, for the new water line, and the other for the new water exit port. Also traxxas sez, you really don't want your Spartan Castle motor to go much over 180 degrees on a regular basis. And that, 140 to 160 degrees is about normal with a stock boat under normal operating circumstances running on 6s Lipo's.
When I first got my Spartan (before any mods), my 1st run (with using 6s) was about 140, 2nd run was about 160, and any other runs after that was around 180 degrees. If your temps are 120 degrees and under, running 6s batteries, and your making more than 1 or 2 runs; your doing very, very good.
Last edited by ReglarDude; 06-09-2014 at 03:49 AM.
Yeah my temps consistently stay under 120 but I think thats because of the cooling jacket size. It cools the whole rotor in the motor compared to just part of it like the stock jacket does. The only cooling mods I have done are the aluminum jacket and larger diameter cooling line.
37” Fightercat Shocker