Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 40 of 115
  1. #1
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168

    My 1/10 E-Revo Brushless Build

    I bought a Revo 2.5r back in 2004, and have decided to strip and keep the parts I can to build a brand new ERBE. I'll be ordering parts in the next few weeks, the first batch arrived today.

    Here are the parts I kept from the 2.5r.

    Aluminum red turnbuckles and pushrods (-1 that broke), Lunsford P1/LT pushrods, body mounts and front/rear skids, servo guards, front/rear bulkheads and braces (1 front carbon fiber), differentials, 2.5r front/rear bumpers, front/rear a-arms, steering arm/linkage.



    Orange, Green, White, Blue, Sliver and Gold springs, P1, P2, P3 and LT rockers, 14, 15, 16 tooth clutch bells, 36, 38, 40 spurs, #1, #2 and #3 shock pistons.

    Not pictured are the hinge pins.



    ERBE parts order #1

    Proline Wing (from the 2.5r days, never installed), ERBE wing and wing mount, motor mount/braces, ERBE chassis, receiver box/antenna, GTR shocks, 17mm hubs, skid plates/servo guards, ERBE transmission, RPM, temp & voltage sensors.



    I'll be updating this thread through the entire build process. If anyone has any suggestions on what else to get/add feel free to post.

  2. #2
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lake Jackson, TX
    Posts
    1,631
    I haven't seen too many accounts from 2004! What electronics will you be running?
    X-Maxx Max6 | EB48.3 | ET48.3 | Axial Grave Digger

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Motor and ESC I was thinking just the ERBE stock setup. Servo, Savox 1230SG. I'll be running 4S.

    Either the TQi 4-ch/5-ch setup or the Spektrum DS4C.

  4. #4
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    315
    Quote Originally Posted by mz_ View Post
    Motor and ESC I was thinking just the ERBE stock setup. Servo, Savox 1230SG. I'll be running 4S.

    Either the TQi 4-ch/5-ch setup or the Spektrum DS4C.
    Have fun with the build! Stock system is very fun and capable on 4s. Thats what I run with the 2200kv and its plenty fast and I've never seen the motor over 155F.
    2x 2wd Slash|Slash 4x4 PE|MM E-Revo|Grave Digger

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    5,589
    Have fun building .....looks like a lot of people are going this way.
    I am thinking of dyeing my chassis black like some people have done.
    Live life to the fullest

  6. #6
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Some questions.

    I plan on using the Summit axle's, with two being long and two being short are people using them like this?

    I'll be running 4S and SMC seems like a popular battery to use. Is the Race Formula 7.4V 6500mAh 70C Traxxas a good one to use?

    Chargers.. I'd like to get a ACDC charger to avoid getting a separate power supply, one that charges two batteries, and also balances. Would the EZ-Peak Plus with dual-board be ok, or is there something a bit better?

  7. #7
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lake Jackson, TX
    Posts
    1,631
    buy your summit set along with these
    X-Maxx Max6 | EB48.3 | ET48.3 | Axial Grave Digger

  8. #8
    RC Champion NFS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    2,093
    I built the axles with all long shafts, SMC lipos are good just make sure the proper size. ACDC chargers usually are less prowerfull especially if you want to charge lipos in parallel. I have an icharger with a 350w ps it works pretty good.

  9. #9
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    If you had to choose between SMC or SPC lipos what would you go with? They are about the same price.

    A couple more things arrived today. Avid E-Revo Brushless bearings, Avid Slide bearing grease, and Tony's E-Revo Brushless screw set.


  10. #10
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    22
    Have fun! Got aways to go yet

  11. #11
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    590
    Smc! Great batts

  12. #12
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Some more parts for the build.

    Axle Carriers and Pivot Balls, Pivot Ball Caps and Dust Boots Rubber, Half Shaft Set Long (For Summit drive shafts), Wheelie Bar Revo, Servo Cover Plate, Variable Damping Kit GTR Shocks.


  13. #13
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Started to put some things together last night when I noticed there were some differences in the Revo 2.5/3.3 differentials and the E-Revo ones. Is it major? Could I use the 2.5 ones and just replace them with the E-Revo ones when these go out?

  14. #14
    RC Champion NFS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    2,093
    Yup they are different, erevo diffs have the I bar, you still can use the old ones, but don't think they will last much.

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    5,589
    Quote Originally Posted by mz_ View Post
    Started to put some things together last night when I noticed there were some differences in the Revo 2.5/3.3 differentials and the E-Revo ones. Is it major? Could I use the 2.5 ones and just replace them with the E-Revo ones when these go out?
    I am not sure if the nitro diffs will hold up to the brush-less power.
    The main difference is the I bar and the diff cup, the brush-less diff cup 3978 carries the side plates where as the 5381 not. The 5382x also now has an I bar
    I use this as my reference as the diagrams are set side by side, funnily I ended up ordering the 3978 cups from two lhs so now I have six of them, all brand new, will keep as spares if my diff gives up. (want to build diffs from scratch)
    Last edited by Jezza; 06-07-2014 at 08:22 AM.
    Live life to the fullest

  16. #16
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Thanks. So basically I just need to pick up #3978, as it looks like everything else is the same.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    5,589
    Quote Originally Posted by mz_ View Post
    Thanks. So basically I just need to pick up #3978, as it looks like everything else is the same.
    Yup , they are about 6$+ form the lhs or check on ebay. and check the new 5382x too in case yours do not have that I bar
    Last edited by Jezza; 06-07-2014 at 10:14 AM.
    Live life to the fullest

  18. #18
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Made a trip to Hobbytown to see if they had #3978, they didn't so will try another LHS later. I ended up walking out with a few things.

    Traxxas center differential, Traxxas steering arms (e-revo set), 50k differential oil, 60wt and 80wt shock oil.


  19. #19
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Deciding on spur and pinion gears. I see 20-21/54 seems to be a in-between combination of road/off-road from other posts. Should I go with something better than stock or just use the stock 54 spur? I was looking at these.

    Integy 32P Pinion 18T BL Applications w/5mm Shaft
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXBWPC&P=K

    Robinson Racing X-Hard 20T Black Steel 32P Pinion 5mm
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXDZFF&P=K

    Integy Billet Machined 0.8 MOD Steel 32P Pinion 21T
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXBZMC&P=K

    Integy Steel 0.8 Spur Gear 54T 1/10 E-Revo/Summit
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3&I=LXBZGE&P=K

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    5,589
    I would go for the traxxas sets too, they are great, have had no probs on mine.
    Check also HR, have had good results with their products, like wise Robinson pinion and associated.
    After all the reviews on integy, I had banned it literally off my dictionary, in spite of the fact that my integy alloy rear pede 2wd arm has held very well, even better then an FLM (son managed to tear apart a front FLM arm, full speed into a pole right on the arm)
    Live life to the fullest

  21. #21
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Parts list is winding down. Just down to basically the electronics, motor, body and wheels/tires.

    Center drive shafts, spur and slipper set, Summit axle set.


  22. #22
    RC Enthusiast
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    abbeville,louisiana
    Posts
    43
    i would get the waterproof ecu for it so you dont have to plasti dip the stock one about the same price not much difference
    i would also dye the chase before you put everything on

  23. #23
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    I probably won't dye anything yet. Seems like the "thing" to do, but I sort of like the gray.

    I was thinking about getting the Castle 2200kV Brushless Motor and Castle MXL-6s Waterproof Brushless ESC through DH but was wondering about warranty. Would Castle still warranty these since it's not in original packaging and was basically pulled off a RTR truck? Or should I spend the extra money and order from Tower or someplace else?

  24. #24
    RC Champion NFS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    2,093
    You will need proof of purchase to get warranty service, not sure if DH invoice will be enough unless they are an authorized dealer.

  25. #25
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    More goodies today. I'll start putting together most things until I order the electronics, and wheels/tires.

    Diff carriers, Diff gears, 2 axle carriers, RR 20t pinion, Telemetry trigger magnet holders, new pushrods for the one I had broke.


  26. #26
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Ok, so I'm usually pretty good with this stuff but does anyone else find the Traxxas exploded views hard to read sometimes regarding what screws go where and what size?

    What size screws (3) go in the rear bulkhead/body mount?

  27. #27
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Portugal
    Posts
    608
    I always look at those pics with bags and bags and bags of traxxas pieces! And laugh inside!

    That is a bigger good money pit aside from their rc's! Great business company.

    When you get X-ray,Mugens,Sperpent's,Mp9 Kyosho's you will never buy aftermakert or upgrades....they are already it and last sometimes a lifetime

    But the Traxxas have something like McDonalds... it's always full of people, myself included in Traxxas Rc's and McDonalds that last a lipo pack run... so keep those bags coming....

    Peace!
    Aside from that,Great thread and info in this one! Keep up the good work!
    I know this is a ground up build and not a new rc coming apart with new bags to keep it runing

    For some people Traxxas is the big Deal (entry beginers alike), other's run away from it (Pro racers) other like me (Speed freaks & "core" basher's) had learned the pocket way that those E-revos of Traxxas are something "more" then meets the eye at first... and can be awesome in either way you want it! Traxxas nailed it on that! Bags & bags to keep the "McDollars" happy :P

    And still refusing that their weak heart e-revos (diff's assembly) are still in the age of Nicd's or Nihms... i wonder when they will get up and make a 1/8 steel diff for the e.revos 2.0 with xl2 esc's stock?
    Last edited by targetingxmod; 06-12-2014 at 06:51 AM.

  28. #28
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Started the build process, here is the progress so far. I won't be posting a detailed piece by piece as there are plenty of threads that do that.

    Only thing a did here was cut the 2.5r bumbers down to match the e-revo bumbers. I'll post a picture of those tomorrow.


  29. #29
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Added pushrods, turnbuckles and rebuilt stock shocks. Used silver up front and blue in the rear, 60wt shcok oil all around and #2 dampers.





    Here is a picture of my old 2.5r bumbers dremeled down to match/fit the ERBE.




  30. #30
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Came home to this today!

    Pro-Line Shockwave tires, Traxxas Geode rims, Pro-Line Pro-Bond tire glue, Pro-Line tire bands, and Gorilla Tape.


  31. #31
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Mojave Desert
    Posts
    2,948
    Nice tire/wheel combo! but im confused the package says shockwave but you said the're they badlands?

  32. #32
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    It says Shockwaves. If you read "Pro-Line tire bands" as badlands maybe? those are the bands you put around the tires after gluing. I will be getting a pair of badlands as well in the future, not sure what rims.

  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    5,589
    Eh man funny, I also got the shock waves from the lhs today. They ran out of badlands so I bought them, they look pretty good.
    Live life to the fullest

  34. #34
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Mojave Desert
    Posts
    2,948
    haha! yea i read that too fast i guess.

  35. #35
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Quick question. Does anyone here use a punch or scissors to put holes in the the tires for drainage? I see this on Pro-Line's blog, but haven't seen it here much.

  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    5,589
    Quote Originally Posted by mz_ View Post
    Quick question. Does anyone here use a punch or scissors to put holes in the the tires for drainage? I see this on Pro-Line's blog, but haven't seen it here much.
    Wonder if you can use the body reamer
    Live life to the fullest

  37. #37
    RC Champion NFS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    2,093
    A hot tip from the solder iron is best..if you are not going to summerge the truck on water or mud I dont think it is really necesary.

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    309
    If you are going to run the truck in water or wet grass and puddles holes in the tires are a good idea, you kan use a 2mm drill or a screwdrive to make a smal hole in the tires.

  39. #39
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Winter Haven, FL
    Posts
    168
    Thanks. I don't think I'll be running through any major puddles or mud. Mostly pavement, grass, and clay.

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    309
    Ah then NFS is spot on.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •