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Thread: G-Slayer Pro

  1. #1
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    G-Slayer Pro

    I got a good deal on this Gorillamaxx G2 chassis last summer and had plans to use it on a ERBE build. I went a different direction with that build and this has been sitting in the garage ever since. I've thought about turning it into an e-slayer a lot and now I'm ready to do it. I bought an RC-Monster universal 1/8 scale center diff mount for the original build so I will be using that instead of a transmission. I sent the chassis and the CD mount to a friend to make a mounting plate for me already. I'm not sure when he will get to it so this may be a drawn out build.

    These are the parts I already have:

    Castle 1415 2400kv with a 5mm shaft
    Mamba Max Pro w/ SnappyRC mount
    Spektrum tx/rx
    Hitec metal gear servo
    Gorillamaxx G2 aluminum chassis
    Brand new Gorillamaxx battery straps
    RC MOnster 1/8 scale CD mount
    Stock Revo 3.3 f/r diffs with i-bars
    Mugen MBX7 center diff with Kyosho 44t spur
    E-Maxx brushless edition knuckles
    2s Gens Ace 5000mah 50c batteries (will run 4s)

    I just placed an order for the majority of the rest of the parts. I don't plan on using a bunch of aftermarket parts like I normally do. I'm trying to stay stock for the most part aside from the chassis of course. Dollarhobbyz and Lumidave are the best stores for buying stock replacement parts and here is what I ordered:

    F/R bulkheads, hingpins, braces
    A-arms
    F/R bumpers
    GTR shocks
    Pushrods, toe-links, servo saver, rockers, steering link
    F/R driveshafts
    F/R body mounts

    I need to order a Proline FloTek body, swaybars, Proline thumbscrew body mount post and figure out the best springs to use. I'm also not sure if I will be using buggy wheels or 12mm sct wheels yet. I have 6mm tekno 12mm hexes I can use. I shouldn't need too much more to complete this. Here is the chassis and diff mount. It's in terrible shape but that will make it perfect for bashing and not becoming a shelf-queen. The center shafts are going to be a problem. Hopefully I will be able use to use off the shelf dogbones but if not, I can modify some summit shafts and see if they will fit.

    I really like the way it braces the bulkheads on top and bottom for the length of the chassis.



    I'm going to rip the blue foam off and come up with another solution.






    and that's it for now. Please feel free to share opinions or set up tips, especially with the springs so I can order them, as well as any other items I should order.
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  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. CarGuy7a's Avatar
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    Looks like it's going to be a pretty solid build. For springs start with Steve Slayden's slayer setup. I found his spring choice to be a bit stiff for my liking but should work good for your build. Maybe one step up on the springs also might help. I have a huge array of springs in my parts box to tune with. I usually go stiffer than stock they sag too much.

  3. #3
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    Okay thanks for the info. I will order a pair of double purple, yellow and white for now and use 45wt front and back. I'm not sure how heavy this will be with 2x 2s batteries.
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  4. #4
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    Hopefully this will be the last of the parts needed for this build. If there are any other must do mods lmk.

    Proline Flo-Tek body
    Proline extended body mounts
    Proline Trencher X tires for sct
    RC8 Method wheels
    Jato shock boots
    Traxxas 17mm hexes
    Traxxas sway bars
    Double Purple, Yellow and White springs
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  5. #5
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    I don't think the CC 1415 2400kv motor will do very well in an E-Slayer. It's a smaller can motor motor than the CC 2200kv motor. That motor does better in a Slash/Stampede sized RC. And I'm not sure how the MMP would do either, again I think it's meant for the Slash/Stampede sized RC.

    People please chime in if this is a correct statement.
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  6. #6
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    The 2400 would be ok but I've never seen an e'slayer with less than the cc2200 system.
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  7. #7
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    We will find out. It's going to have slash size tires and will be only a bit heavier because of the two batteries and aluminum chassis. It really shouldn't be a problem because people run 4s batts in slash 4x4s with no problems. I already had that motor combo sitting in a box. I wouldn't have done this build if I had to buy a motor combo for it.
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  8. #8
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    The motor combo should work well. The e-slayer is way lighter than the revo by a few lbs. In my e-slayer I run a custom wound 3020 outrunner which is similar in performance to the 1415. It flies just running 2s. Using a 2200 is just overkill and adds unneeded weight. Using the gorilla chassis you are probably looking at a 6lb truck.

    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  9. #9
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    That's an interesting chassis. Yeah I'm thinking it should work just fine. If not, I can sell the combo and go with the Sidewinder 8th setup. I think this would be a perfect application for it. And, if I wanted to, I could throw on the xo-1 wheels and try out 6s power.
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  10. #10
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    well the 2400kv/mmp combo is going to a new owner so I just placed an order for the Sidewinder 1/8!
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    That's an interesting chassis.
    It is what happened to the chassis I got from you. It turned out well.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  12. #12
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    yeah that turned out really well.

    So I just ordered the lst2 outer diff cases to start working on them in case these stock diffs fail. I'm really curious to see if other 1/8 scale diffs will fit in them as well.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I'm really curious to see if other 1/8 scale diffs will fit in them as well.
    That's the million dollar question that is being asked. Please share any results you get whether it be good or bad. i'm interested to know just been to busy on other projects to do it myself. I was looking at the diffs in the Associated MGT8.0 and the rc8.2e. They could be viable canidates.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  14. #14
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    I'm hoping the MBX5/6/7 diffs will work. I tried to put together the lst2 diffs on ebay and couldn't find all the parts. Well I found everything but a 2nd ring and pinion gear.
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  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I'm hoping the MBX5/6/7 diffs will work. I tried to put together the lst2 diffs on ebay and couldn't find all the parts. Well I found everything but a 2nd ring and pinion gear.
    The lst2 diff, I got the bevel gears and cup from e-bay, the rest I got off from my lhs. In fact its works out cheaper when I order trough them, no delivery costs.
    Live life to the fullest

  16. #16
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    You shouldn't have to run 1/8th scale diffs for a e-slayer. I forget who I talked to bout it before. But he just shimmed his diffs and hadn't had any issues with them. I'm just gonna run some aluminum cups and I-bar braces in mine along with shimming them. No big e-revo tires to worry bout...
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  17. #17
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    Yeah, I know. I do plan on running stock ibar diffs until they break. I'm just really curious about those diff cases working with other diffs.
    I wouldn't run aluminum cups. The aluminum where the out drives come out will slowly open up wider from the steel rubbing against it. I learned that lesson with flm diffcups on my old slash 4x4.
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  18. #18
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    I've been doing some reading and it seems that the G2 chassis was made to convert the old revo to brushless so it will be shorter than the new extended 3.3 chassis. The only issue that may come from this is with the flo-tek body. I may have to go with a Slash body but then the arms may be too wide.
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  19. #19
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    A slayer 2.5 body should work. I've never looked at what bodies fit a slayer 2.5 good though. My revo 2.5 body fit over the slayer nicely.



    Actually one that I liked was the slash Dakar body. I was going to get that one but I never could before I got the slayer pro upgrades. If the revo 2.5 body fits then I imagine other truck bodies should fit as well.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I've been doing some reading and it seems that the G2 chassis was made to convert the old revo to brushless so it will be shorter than the new extended 3.3 chassis. The only issue that may come from this is with the flo-tek body. I may have to go with a Slash body but then the arms may be too wide.

    A couple choices then. Either get the standard arms which are the same part numbers as the pro but without the X or get some associated spec rims which are 11mm inboard compared to the traxxas slash offset. That is if they rub on the body you choose.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  21. #21
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    Well sweet, I already have the sc8 method wheels on order. I have some sc10 and slash bodies too
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  22. #22
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    Lots of goodies were waiting on my at the house when I got back!





    Difference between Trenchers and Trencher X


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  23. #23
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    so Hot Boddies and Mugen diffs will definitely not work with the LST2 cases.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    so Hot Boddies and Mugen diffs will definitely not work with the LST2 cases.
    Is it because of the bearings or is it the ring and pinion hitting the case?
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  25. #25
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    the ring gear won't fit in on either type of diff. The hotbodies case is way to big to fit in there even if the ring gear was smaller.
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  26. #26
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    I got the front and rear put together. I think I need some limiters in the shocks..thoughts on that? I went with 10k in the front diff and 7k in the rear as per Slayden's setup sheet. I've order some more double purples along with double black and double green springs.


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    Some people use fuel tubing as shock limiters. I bet you could find plastic conduit the right size at Lowe's or McCoy's. Just put the conduit inside the shock on the shaft. It won't take much so do a little bit at a time till you get the height you like. Should be only a dollar for conduit of that size. If not, I may have an idea that could work. For $10 it would be a permanent solution: thunder tiger pd7975. The diameter of the hole should be a half mm larger than the shock shaft.
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  28. #28
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    Good tips Paul. I used the shock bumpers that go on the outside. I had an extra set. They may be too thick. I will have to wait and see how low the Gorillamaxx chassis will be when I get it back. I'm really liking these trencher X tires.
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  29. #29
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    They do look sick. Those shock bumpers might be just right. It should drop it 1/2" to 3/4" which should be right.
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    Good tips Paul. I used the shock bumpers that go on the outside. I had an extra set. They may be too thick. I will have to wait and see how low the Gorillamaxx chassis will be when I get it back. I'm really liking these trencher X tires.
    That is the way the factory sets it up to limit the movement with the blue bumper in the inside.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by afterdarkgames View Post
    That is the way the factory sets it up to limit the movement with the blue bumper in the inside.



    the way to the factory assembles the blue bump-stop is to limit compression where as we are trying to limit extension but putting it inside the shock as well instead of just behind the coils.
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  32. #32
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    They put them on the inside of the shock to limit extension. (I would link you to the exploded parts view but it seems to be inop for the slayer at the moment.)

    why not use P3 rockers with p2 rods instead to limit the movement? It would allow you to use a softer spring and oil and get the same result of total arm movement without limiting your shock travel with the added bonus of a more progressive easier to tune shock rate.
    Last edited by afterdarkgames; 05-27-2014 at 07:24 PM.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  33. #33
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    that sounds like a good plan. So I would take the limiters out, get the p3 rockers and use the rods I already have on?
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    Correct sir and you can fine tune your full extension ride height with a spacer on one end also.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  35. #35
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    thanks for the tips. Order placed for p3 rockers and spacers
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  36. #36
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    I planned on running the stock diffs but I need them to complete an E-Revo roller. I also found I had one RC Monster diff case with a 43/13 Hot Bodies diff in the Gorillamaxx roller I bought to get this chassis. The XXL diffs are 43/13 as well so all I need is one extra diff and only need to modify one Losi diff case so I'm going to do it. I know 1/8 scale diffs aren't necessary for this build


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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I know 1/8 scale diffs aren't necessary for this build
    It wouldn't be a true gorrillamaxx if you didn't...
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  38. #38
    RC Champion SLW-SVT's Avatar
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    Now that's the spirit!!
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  39. #39
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    I got some pics from my buddy








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    Looking good. You should be able to sink the diff a little lower. The center of the Diff bearing should be 12mm below the bottom of the top deck or at least it is for the stock transmission. Since you have joints there you could drop it even lower if you wanted.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

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