Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    587

    Rear diff help please!

    So my rear has been making a clicking noise for a while now. Long story short, the cup is chewed up inside. I think I'm supposed to get 5382x for the revo I bar inside to reinforce it, but can I use the upgraded erevo diff cup with that? Stock p4de is 5381 and erevo one is 3978. It looks like there are some metal tabs that reinforce it as well. I do not want metal cups, just stock plastic ones. Thanks guys!

    I'd like to get this back together today also, so any quick help is appreciated!!

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Northern Norway
    Posts
    592
    This is what you need to build XO-1 diffs:
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=6261
    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=9335

    A month ago I did the same - works great with 50k oil in the front and 30k in the rear.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    587
    I just got back from my LHS and got 5382x and 5381. I called and of course 6882x isn't in stock. Now I'll have to wait until Thursday to get the 6882x and swap out the diff cups. Thanks Viking for the info!

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Montreal, Canada
    Posts
    3,914
    Quote Originally Posted by cbrsilv15 View Post
    I just got back from my LHS and got 5382x and 5381. I called and of course 6882x isn't in stock. Now I'll have to wait until Thursday to get the 6882x and swap out the diff cups. Thanks Viking for the info!
    By the way the 5381 is the carrier cup, you can get away with using the 3978 (it has the side plates, holds the diff gears better with either the 6882x as the XO1 or with the 5382x as the e-revo, emax or summit)
    This is the reference that I use to align all the diffs side by side
    http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...-ML-121120.pdf
    Live life to the fullest

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Northern Norway
    Posts
    592
    Quote Originally Posted by Jezza View Post
    By the way the 5381 is the carrier cup, you can get away with using the 3978 (it has the side plates, holds the diff gears better with either the 6882x as the XO1 or with the 5382x as the e-revo, emax or summit)
    This is the reference that I use to align all the diffs side by side
    http://traxxas.com/sites/default/fil...-ML-121120.pdf
    That's exactly the link I was looking for to attach to my first reply - thanks Jezza!

    IMO the 3978 carrier cup is a better choice because of the metal tabs supporting the spider gears.
    As a side note, I wish Traxxas would give us the I-bar as a separate part.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    587
    After some thought, I figure the xo-1 was made for 6s, so those parts should work better. My p4de is pretty heavy! Lol. I'll just wait for the 6882 because I can use everything in that kit, as opposed to just the spider gears and I bar from the 5382. It looks like the MIPs have distorted the shafts just a tad because they were a pain to get off. Thanks for the input guys!!

    I was looking at that link just before I left for LHS, but didn't pay close enough attention. I want te metal tabs for more support. Looks like that cup also doesn't have the four alignment tabs for the ring gear. Don't think it should matter because the four screws hold it to the cup anyways.

    Spider gears ate through cup and into the screws. There might be a little flexing inside the cup. Lol.

    Last edited by cbrsilv15; 05-05-2014 at 11:35 AM.

  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wales in the UK
    Posts
    6,460
    I have been using the the ibar in my diffs for about 2-3 years now and have been trouble free even with the extra power from my hobbywing and tenshock comboits worth the effort because it's one less thing to worry about man......peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  8. #8
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    587
    Just got the correct parts and together today. I used 90% 30k oil and a tad of the 100k to thicken it up a tad. Loctite is drying overnight and then I can try out the new rear end tomorrow.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Starr County, Texas
    Posts
    683
    Nice!, So what parts did you need to do the rebuild? Im new to this myself and wouldnt mind upgrading while its tore apart. Is everything fit right in or was modding required?
    <P4de VXL|Castle 3800kv|MM2|MIP|STRC|Proline|SPC>

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    587
    Zero modding. It dropped in just like the oem stampede ones did. Both parts are listed above by Viking. It's about $20 per diff to do that. It's nice and tight. Can't wait to get home to try it out!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •