So my rear has been making a clicking noise for a while now. Long story short, the cup is chewed up inside. I think I'm supposed to get 5382x for the revo I bar inside to reinforce it, but can I use the upgraded erevo diff cup with that? Stock p4de is 5381 and erevo one is 3978. It looks like there are some metal tabs that reinforce it as well. I do not want metal cups, just stock plastic ones. Thanks guys!
I'd like to get this back together today also, so any quick help is appreciated!!
This is what you need to build XO-1 diffs:
A month ago I did the same - works great with 50k oil in the front and 30k in the rear.
I just got back from my LHS and got 5382x and 5381. I called and of course 6882x isn't in stock. Now I'll have to wait until Thursday to get the 6882x and swap out the diff cups. Thanks Viking for the info!
This is the reference that I use to align all the diffs side by side
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After some thought, I figure the xo-1 was made for 6s, so those parts should work better. My p4de is pretty heavy! Lol. I'll just wait for the 6882 because I can use everything in that kit, as opposed to just the spider gears and I bar from the 5382. It looks like the MIPs have distorted the shafts just a tad because they were a pain to get off. Thanks for the input guys!!
I was looking at that link just before I left for LHS, but didn't pay close enough attention. I want te metal tabs for more support. Looks like that cup also doesn't have the four alignment tabs for the ring gear. Don't think it should matter because the four screws hold it to the cup anyways.
Spider gears ate through cup and into the screws. There might be a little flexing inside the cup. Lol.
Last edited by cbrsilv15; 05-05-2014 at 11:35 AM.
I have been using the the ibar in my diffs for about 2-3 years now and have been trouble free even with the extra power from my hobbywing and tenshock comboits worth the effort because it's one less thing to worry about man......peace
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Just got the correct parts and together today. I used 90% 30k oil and a tad of the 100k to thicken it up a tad. Loctite is drying overnight and then I can try out the new rear end tomorrow.
Nice!, So what parts did you need to do the rebuild? Im new to this myself and wouldnt mind upgrading while its tore apart. Is everything fit right in or was modding required?
<P4de VXL|Castle 3800kv|MM2|MIP|STRC|Proline|SPC>
Zero modding. It dropped in just like the oem stampede ones did. Both parts are listed above by Viking. It's about $20 per diff to do that. It's nice and tight. Can't wait to get home to try it out!