Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    15

    I'm new to this and becoming a little overwhelmed

    Ive had my 4x4 Stampede for a couple weeks now and so far, have only broken the mounting tabs on the esc...Im going to get the RPM esc cage tomorrow and am waiting for RPM a-arms to arrive in the mail.

    I know I have a lot to learn to be able to get the most out of this truck and I want to be ready to replace and upgrade parts as they break. ANY SUGGESTIONS???

    I really enjoy this new hobby and wish I would have gotten into it a long time ago, thanks for your input!!!

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    447
    Quote Originally Posted by mvan666 View Post
    Ive had my 4x4 Stampede for a couple weeks now and so far, have only broken the mounting tabs on the esc...Im going to get the RPM esc cage tomorrow and am waiting for RPM a-arms to arrive in the mail.

    I know I have a lot to learn to be able to get the most out of this truck and I want to be ready to replace and upgrade parts as they break. ANY SUGGESTIONS???

    I really enjoy this new hobby and wish I would have gotten into it a long time ago, thanks for your input!!!
    Welcome to the fourms! I was wayyy overwhelmed after i picked up a telluride at a pepboys.. now i'm 800+ into it. Lol! Definately upgrade to the aluminum bearing for the slipper the plastic will melt. Lower body mounts, looks much better and it seemed to make it less likely to roll over (may be a placebo). Pick up an ir temp gun, super important. Lipos and a quality balance charger. Are a must have imo.

  3. #3
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Starr County, Texas
    Posts
    683
    Aluminum shock caps, TiNi shock shafts, MIP xduty drive shafts.

    Sent from my neXus⁴ using tapatalk 2
    <P4de VXL|Castle 3800kv|MM2|MIP|STRC|Proline|SPC>

  4. #4
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    112
    Aluminum shock caps and the aluminum slipper bearing. A couple good 2s liposuction and decent balance charger as mentioned above. Reinforce the body with fiberglass drywall tape and shoe goo. Grab a stock slash bumper or a rpm or tone front bumper as they all provide more protection for the front of the pede. If you go to 2s lipo. The mip xduty to drive Shafts are a must. They are pricy but well worth it .

  5. #5
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Northern Norway
    Posts
    566
    Welcome to the forum and the P4de family!

    I know it sometimes can be a little overwhelming to follow this forum, but that's because there are so many crazy people here (in a good way!).
    But don't be shy asking questions - we all started out at one point, and the only dumb question is the one not asked.

    Breaking the tabs on the ESC is a classic, and getting the RPM cage and A-arms tells me you have done some homework.
    People will always have their personal preferences about which upgrades to promote, but you have made a healthy approach by "upgrading as it breaks".
    The Stampede 4x4 is a tough little truck out of the box, but it has three major weak points:
    - The plastic bearing adapter (#6893) on the slipper shaft will melt. Replace it with aluminium #6893X.
    - The plastic caps on the Ultra shocks pops off easily and should be replaced by aluminium caps #3767A/G/X.
    - The plastic driveshafts are not up to the task (especially the rear ones). Replace them with steel CVD's (Traxxas, MIP, Tekno).

    IMO the following is also needed:
    - 2s LiPo (6000mAh will give you 30+ minutes of run time).
    - Balance charger with storage function (LiPo's have to be stored at 3.85V/cell).
    - Temp gun to keep an eye on the motor and ESC temps.
    - Heat sink with single fan on motor, and fan on the VXL-3s ESV (Traxxas #3340).
    - RPM or T-Bone front bumper.
    - Better tires (and then you really need steel driveshafts...).
    - Reinforce the body with drywall tape and Shoe goo.
    - Dusty Motors shroud with zipper.
    - A rotating stand makes it much easier to work on the truck and keeps the tires off the ground (prevents flat spots and bent A-arms during storage).
    - Good quality tools (I use Hudy and they are great!).

    As you probably know, the list can be made endless - upgrading and wrenching is a big part of the fun...
    Last edited by Viking; 05-03-2014 at 02:04 AM.

  6. #6
    RC Champion Jimdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Iowa City, Iowa, USA
    Posts
    2,733
    Quote Originally Posted by morehousej View Post
    Aluminum shock caps and the aluminum slipper bearing. A couple good 2s liposuction and decent balance charger as mentioned above. Reinforce the body with fiberglass drywall tape and shoe goo. Grab a stock slash bumper or a rpm or tone front bumper as they all provide more protection for the front of the pede. If you go to 2s lipo. The mip xduty to drive Shafts are a must. They are pricy but well worth it .
    I think your auto correct helped you spell lipo!

    I would recommend aluminum shock caps, aluminum bearing adapter, mip drive shafts, and a heavy duty slipper. Lipos are also great because of the extra run time and power.
    Whatever you are, be a good one.

  7. #7
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    65
    1+ ^^^ ... I also would grab:
    - shock fluid: I've gone with 50wt
    - diff oil: I've got 100k and 30k
    - loctite: Blue and red
    - CA (super) glue
    - reinforce the body with shoe goo and dry wall tape.

    Above all, get it dirty and enjoy!

  8. #8
    RC Champion Jimdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Iowa City, Iowa, USA
    Posts
    2,733
    I wouldn't use red loctite.

    Motor cleaner is good for cleaning diffs and shocks when they leak.
    Sullivan dry ice will be a good lube for the diffs and mip driveshafts.
    Simple green will keep it looking brand new by simply rinsing it.
    Whatever you are, be a good one.

  9. #9
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Liverpool, New York
    Posts
    541
    All very good information. To add my to cents. Don't sweat it! Things are and will break, whether it is from wear and tear or it is driver error. Either way it is going to happen. The beauty of a "Hobby Grade" RC vehicles, every part, nut and bolt can be replaced with a stock or aftermarket part. You will find there are plenty of "better than stock" parts out there. There is also some "not so good" aftermarket parts. Be careful what you buy. Check this from, if you can't find a thread on something, start one. There are plenty of us who have "Been there, Done that", that are willing to share our advice and knowledge. most of all.
    ENJOY IT!
    Just Bash it!
    4x4 Pede
    Two 2wd Pede

  10. #10
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    607
    Quote Originally Posted by ramflames View Post
    All very good information. To add my to cents. Don't sweat it! Things are and will break, whether it is from wear and tear or it is driver error. Either way it is going to happen. The beauty of a "Hobby Grade" RC vehicles, every part, nut and bolt can be replaced with a stock or aftermarket part. You will find there are plenty of "better than stock" parts out there. There is also some "not so good" aftermarket parts. Be careful what you buy. Check this from, if you can't find a thread on something, start one. There are plenty of us who have "Been there, Done that", that are willing to share our advice and knowledge. most of all.
    ENJOY IT!
    Very wise buddy ! Nicely said

  11. #11
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    112
    Quote Originally Posted by morehousej View Post
    Aluminum shock caps and the aluminum slipper bearing. A couple good 2s liposuction and decent balance charger as mentioned above. Reinforce the body with fiberglass drywall tape and shoe goo. Grab a stock slash bumper or a rpm or tone front bumper as they all provide more protection for the front of the pede. If you go to 2s lipo. The mip xduty to drive Shafts are a must. They are pricy but well worth it .
    Quote Originally Posted by Jimdog View Post
    I think your auto correct helped you spell lipo!
    LOL

    but liposuction on a pede would be a great way to reduce overall weight.......

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wales in the UK
    Posts
    6,441
    Welcome to the forum and the addiction my friend you have got yourself a sick monster truck and there is no such as a silly question we are here to help........peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  13. #13
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    15
    Thanks everyone!!

    Today I put on the RPM wide front bumper, the LED light bar, RPM ESC Cage. Still waiting for the RPM A-arms to arrive and will be ordering a bunch of the items suggested by this forum today...

    After installing those parts I put my 2S Lipo in the truck and went out and got it all wet and dirty

    All cleaned up now and ready for the next session. (after supper)

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wales in the UK
    Posts
    6,441
    I am stoked for you dude and there is nothing better than bashing and wrenching.......peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. O.G.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    South of St Louis
    Posts
    6,101
    How are you powering the LEDs?
    My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...

  16. #16
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by O.G. View Post
    How are you powering the LEDs?
    its a kit from Traxxas, all wired up and ready to plug into the receiver box

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •