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Thread: LCG XO-1 Revo

  1. #41
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    I have an idea i will like your opinion on it. Have you ever considered using a XO1 chassis for the bottom plate? Maybe we can use the battery trays from the xo1 as well.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by viro46 View Post
    I have an idea i will like your opinion on it. Have you ever considered using a XO1 chassis for the bottom plate? Maybe we can use the battery trays from the xo1 as well.
    Speaking on behalf, the XO-1 chassis would be hard/tricky to modify and the battery tray is not gonna work, your better off with your own design, start with blank aluminum plate and drill holes specifically base on your design.
    humay has left the building, peace.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by viro46 View Post
    I have an idea i will like your opinion on it. Have you ever considered using a XO1 chassis for the bottom plate? Maybe we can use the battery trays from the xo1 as well.
    I had actually considered using the lower plate but after I had one in my hands I though better of it. Yes it could be used but after you are finished modifying it would have more holes than Swiss cheese. Not to mention the only bolt holes that would be usable would be the motor mount holes. Because of the compact design of the Revo mounting everything on the tray gets really tight, especially with 2.5 and the 3.3 lengths. Using the length of the ERevo allows you to use the radio box from the XO-1 to get everything lower. But I found no advantage in using one over lowering the servo down with spacers. The whole point of the XO-1 project was to see if I could get most of the weight below axle height to lower the center of gravity. It actually worked way better than I could have expected and I learned a lot about the Revo suspension and the amazing potential it has.

    One of my favorite tricks I can do with my LCG chassis is on demand traction roll. Yeah it might sound bad but it is not. It is able to pull enough Gs around a corner that it will drive on 2 wheels controllably. Now if you snap the steering into the corner a little more it will roll completely over without touching the ground and land back on the wheels 99% of the time. What can you do with this? say you are taking a corner a little to tight and are about to bite the board...crank the steering to flip it over and be a car width and a half away from the obstacle without loosing speed or needing a turn marshal to get you unstuck.

    My biggest issue I am having right now is battery retention. I just haven't had the time to address the issue and build something that keeps the batteries centrally located. I am looking to build something similar to what SLW-SVT did with his Slayer but a little more integrated and only on one side.
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...=1#post5733038

    It will get there eventually...one project at a time.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  4. #44
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    Looks good. I will be doing a XO-1 LCG Revo soon. Will post pictures as i go along.

  5. #45
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    I have a new to me erevo that worked for a short time and is now awaiting parts. Lol I am impressed with all the very cool parts available for these cars.

    I am pretty new to this hobby and found this awesome thread while researching mods I just have to make to my erevo.

    Couple questions.

    1. Where would one find the chassis you used? The only one I found was on ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-Revo...item27effa6ae3) with a buy it now price of $195.00. I was liking the way you were watching costs and this does not seem to fit.

    2. Like I said, I'm new and not the best driver. Would a modified erevo with this setup be as strong as stock? I'm trying to do everything as durable as I can find.

    3. I am interested in the parts for a kit if you feel it is as strong as a stock setup.
    Thanks in advance.

    Craig

  6. #46
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    The chassis I had purchased was from a Member here that had one they were not using and had messed up transmission holes. It is a rare item that used to help lighten the overall weight of the truck. When all done with extensive use of carbon fiber, ceramic bearings, plastic shock bodies, and aluminum parts it does get the truck down to 7lbs but it cost a good bit. For an all out race model though money is usually not an object if you want to win.

    If you are being money conscious the setup can be built using the standard 3.3 REVO/slayer pro aluminum chassis. (TRA5322X)
    When built out of full aluminum or even adding in steel pieces the vehicle will be really strong as the chassis does not bend on the ends like in the regular E-REVO setup. It does end up being a heavier vehicle if built that way but the chassis ends will no longer be a weak spot. Currently as it sits now the vehicle will be shorter than the E-REVO by 30mm until I have the time to create an extended chassis using the 3.3 as a base. Just been too busy here lately with life to work on improving it.

    To me the biggest advantage of the LCG setup is how it resists rolling over on a high-speed turns. If you want parts for a kit PM me and we will talk options.
    Last edited by afterdarkgames; 11-07-2014 at 09:43 AM.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  7. #47
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    Hey AfterDark, I will be forever grateful if you can help me with any CAD files you may have for the LCG conversion.

    I'm building a LCG revo from the ground up and will be using the LST2 differentials. I'm having trouble with the center axles as the ERevo center CVDs don't fit in the Revo shorter chassis. I'll have to modify the diffs to accept standard Revo 3.3 plastic axles.

  8. #48
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    You will have to use a shortened front plastic axle with the LST diffs and a part from Rc Monster.
    http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...coupler&cat=33
    It adapts the LST diffs to a regular Revo U-joint output. The only way you will be able to get a CVD in there is with a full custom creation as the "transmission" output is not in the stock location.

    PM me your email address and let me know which chassis you are using and I will send you the CAD file for the chassis.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  9. #49
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    In regards to the LST2 diffs i already modified the output shafts on the differential pinion gear to accept the standard traxxas 6mm shafts so i will be using revo 3.3 shafts. I used a little lathe i have to modify it and it came out great. I will also bore the output shaft to accept the Pin screw standard to traxxas but i need a good drill bit as the LST2 shaft is a very hard alloy and the ones i keep getting at home depot just can't cut it.

    I will take picture of the entire mod and post them here to help others.

  10. #50
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    What are those diffs from

  11. #51
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    how was it when you cut the carbon fiber, does it ruin it at all or cause it to delaminate?

  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67Exec View Post
    Made my own 6x16x4mm bearing by sanding down a 6x16x5, making use of revo pinion gears. After 8 4s packs, it's wearing very nicely. I used shortened summit axles with great success. With a little tinkering, the summit ends could be used to make custom length dogbones.
    Nice!!! I looked around and seems the only way to go if we want to use traxxas pinion shaft since 6x16x4 bearings are not manufactured, i guess there is a limitation in the proportions that a bearing can be fabricated.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRoy9696 View Post
    how was it when you cut the carbon fiber, does it ruin it at all or cause it to delaminate?
    Depends on how you cut it...I cut it with a diamond wheel so it is essentially sanding a cut into the carbon fiber. Using a toothed saw will usually cause chips to be taken out of the epoxy and will also cause delamination because the motion of the saw is a pulling motion. It can be done with a fine toothed saw but care must be exercised and not force the saw past a location that it catches on. The biggest piece of advice is to take your time, cut a little wider than your line, and sand to the final shape.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

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