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Thread: LCG XO-1 Revo

  1. #1
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    LCG XO-1 Revo

    So being tired of my Revo constantly rolling over to get its belly scratched, I set out on a mission to try and fix the issue it has with the high center of gravity. Yes you can lower the ride height of the truck or put sway bars on it but they are just a band-aid to what the real problem is... the boat anchor of a motor mounted at the very top of the truck. Yes I love my Monster motor and would not trade the raw power it produces for anything...except maybe a bigger motor. Even with sway bars it will traction roll when taking a hard corner if it is not lowered to the ground. My thing is if I wanted a low-rider I would not have bought a monster truck to begin with.

    So I began reworking the components on the truck but always had an issue with drive-shafts or something. Well I finally was looking through the Traxxas parts section of my LHS and started brainstorming. What I ended up with would not win any beauty contests but it got the design moving towards what I have today. It all started with the "transmission" out of an XO-1 and then I just started building around it. All parts I used in this build are either straight traxxas parts or lightly modified parts except for the through bolts and the upper and lower shelf. I maintained the cush drive from the XO-1 to ease the driveline a little. I am happy with the results. See for yourself...

    I started with a nitro chassis...


    taped it for cutting...


    hardest part is making that first cut but it turns out looking like this to fit all of the hardware


    I then took two XO-1 motor mounts and modified one...


    I then modified A XO-1 "transmission" to accept the Revo FOC shaft...


    Transmission assembled...
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  2. #2
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    Custom parts required...


    Trans mounted...


    Throughbolts and spacers...


    Beautiful carbon chassis mounted...


    Sandwich with top plate...


    Add Electronincs...


    other side...


    top...
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  3. #3
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    Add a standard revo front end with cut down driveshafts...

    Then the rear and add bateries and she is ready to fly...


    And yes i still have my ground clearance...


    If you notice everything sits below the upper chassis location. One battery sits in its original position and the other sits below it.




    From below...
    Last edited by afterdarkgames; 04-20-2014 at 09:07 PM.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  4. #4
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    Every new truck needs a new top...



    One thing I found out while driving it was that everthing is so low that nothing touches the ground if it flips.



    I should tell you though that when I was driving it i could not get it to traction roll no matter how hard I tried. Including full acceleration turns braking into turns while cranking the steering to one side. And no I do not have any swaybars, zipties, or other goodies that would prevent it rolling. The only time it would land on its lid was either during acceleration when it wheelies or when it would flip forward during braking. I will get a video when I can get someone to hold the camera. I learned my lesson last time...I admit I cannot drive crazy and video it at the same time. Last time I ate a concrete staircase and broke snapped the output of my metal gear servo.

    Hope y'all like it.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    awesome build man what kind of material did you use on the lower plate?
    humay has left the building, peace.

  6. #6
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    Epoxy composite sandwich. I then painted it flat black to match the truck. I doesn't have to be aluminum as it is just a lower tray hung off the main chassis.
    Last edited by afterdarkgames; 04-20-2014 at 09:28 PM.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  7. #7
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    This is awesome!

  8. #8
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    That is a sick build man! That's customization without total fabrication! Props to that!
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ManDime View Post
    That is a sick build man! That's customization without total fabrication! Props to that!
    Thanks!

    The whole idea behind it was for anybody to able to complete it with common parts. Everything used is Traxxas or Traxxas equivalent. The only real custom parts are the lower and upper tray. Both are made of laminations and can be accomplished by anyone with a little patience.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    might look at finding away to put a gear cover on the bottom side at least. My luck I would run a stick or even worse a rock thru the spur and pinion gear. I looked at the first pic in post three before seeing the others, he build a three wheeler...

    But you got to love a custom truck...AAaaaa....
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87 GN View Post
    might look at finding away to put a gear cover on the bottom side at least. My luck I would run a stick or even worse a rock thru the spur and pinion gear.
    Funny you should mention that as I took it running in some sandy soil today showing it off and trashed a pinion and spur. It is on my list. Luckily I have some fresh left over lexan from the new body.

    Have any good ways or tips to form lexan for small pieces?
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. 87 GN's Avatar
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    boiling water, heat gun...idk...
    Would you go flip my truck back over??

  13. #13
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    Can't you just melt lexan together? Try taking a torch or a heat gun and see if you can get it to flex easier. Or maybe even a hair dryer... I've never really played with lexan. I just know it takes heat to mold it.
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  14. #14
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    You could try like a .060 kydex. That would be very durable and you're able to mold with some heat then you can use epoxy or grommets to keep it all together.
    Good, Fast, Cheap; You can only have two

  15. #15
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    Hey I noticed how you did use the XO-1 Cush style "slipper" system and was wondering, since I have seen people swap that onto slash 4x4s and I know that the slash has the Revo spec upgraded slipper kit. If it might be possible to use that kit in the place so you still have a slipper?

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    It was my first idea but after having one in my hands I knew it would not work. They both have outputs of 5mm on one end and 4mm on the other. The revo uses 6mm. The 5mm could be adapted using rustler or stampede parts but there is no way that I know of to adapt the 4mm side. Traxxas uses the aluminum drive-shaft in the XO-1 and the slash but since the revo diffs are not aligned straight across like the other two the solid drive-shaft will not work as there needs to be a u-joint to take up the misalignment. I used the FOC shaft from the Nitro revo and just expanded the center of the Cush drive to 7mm matching it. The shaft has the correct outputs so it bolts right into the revo driveline with standard shafts. I also could have turned the rod down to 6mm to fit the cush unmodified, but since I did not have access to a lathe I used a drill-press to center and expand the metal part and manually drilled the plastic parts by hand to ensure they centered properly. If the plastic is not straight then the gear wobbles. The metal center can be off a little as it floats in the center housing.

    To my surprise though the Cush drive provides ample drive-train shock suppression as there is a rubber disk part that is inside and has the ability to compress, shielding the parts from the instant shock provided by the brushless motor. I have beaten it like a rented mule since I built it just trying to find weak spots to fix and so far have been unsuccessful (thankfully) in breaking anything. The only exception was when I was driving in sandy soil and killed a spur and pinion because the front tires were force feeding the "tranny" gobs of dirt. For my 2 cents worth I like the cush drive better than the slipper as now I can do controlled stoppies or forward flips and still have some sort of drive-line protection from shock unlike the slipper which had to almost be locked out to perform these maneuvers.

    If you can come up with a way to adapt the slipper I am all ears as options are always good.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  17. #17
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    I was really just curious because I do have a nitro slayer right now and am planning to turn it to an electric Revo. And your use of the nitro chassis and making it an lcg e Revo is a great idea and saves me from having to buy so many different things that would come with going the standard e Revo. And I will take your word on the Cush system that it is good because from what I have seen Xo-1 owners say. But I will also look into the slipper just cause. Hope you can see a build similar to yours in the future! Because your is a great idea! And curious as well if you have any diagrams or anything of the custom parts you made? I have access to a 3D printer and I am seeing if that would be able to suit my needs

  18. #18
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    Please do build one and yes I have diagrams. I used a laser etcher to cut my parts out then laminated them using a high strength epoxy under vacuum. A 3D printer might work but I do not know how strong the parts are when they come off the machine. Good luck with it. PM me your email address and I can send you what I have.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  19. #19
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    I Sent you a pm. And I believe if I did the epoxy coating like you or something equivalent the platform could be very sturdy. A friend of mine designed a shopping bag holder. Very simple I know but it does test the strength. And it's held up very well

  20. #20
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    What about if you bought 2 Nitro Chassis and sandwiched them togethere? Just a thought I had. And no, I'm not building a LCG Chassis.
    1/10 Xray T3. No Traxxas RCs right now.

  21. #21
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    No need the chassis is strong enough by itself. .. the decks are there to hang all of the goodies below the standard chassis height. Also the upper chassis locates the XO -1 mounts that are not level with the chassis and stick up about 7th above the chassis surface. I will take a pic when I get home to demonstrate what I am talking about. Good question... that keeps the process going.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by multidookey View Post
    I Sent you a pm. And I believe if I did the epoxy coating like you or something equivalent the platform could be very sturdy. A friend of mine designed a shopping bag holder. Very simple I know but it does test the strength. And it's held up very well
    Awesome... it might work out then...pm replied.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  23. #23
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    [B]At what point do you have too much carbon?[/B]

    So I was working on lowering the parts more and making them lighter I ended up spilling a little to much carbon cloth on the upper and lower chassis. Turns out it works well as a flat piece with standoffs better than being a solid piece. I also just for grins used carbon toe links and pushrods. And for some reason I had enough cloth left over to make the dirt guard out of carbon fiber also.







    Just in case you are wondering I did shorten the chassis down to a 2.5 size and used the standard slayer arms making it the same size as a slash 4x4 but with progressive shocks. For those of you counting calories it comes in at 2670g fully loaded ready to run. In the near future I will be switching out the bearings, screws, esc, and rocker posts for something lighter as they are still standard stock heavy parts. I am shooting for just under 5 lbs with the slayer conversion.

    Now that I have the platforms perfected I will also be updating the original revo that I started this style of build with and to see just how light I can get the brushless edition down to. Should be interesting
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  24. #24
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    Nice build. Interesting battery placement. After seeing the diamond plate I am going to have to make one using it just because it has a mean metal look to it. Possibility an all aluminum build eventually.

    How well does the XO-1 motor run on just 3s?
    What did you use for the center shaft?
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  25. #25
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    I like the build! Nice and clean and out of the box thinking. Should work great at the track

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by wrightcs77 View Post
    Should work great at the track
    Haven't been able to take the Revo version to the track yet but the slayer conversion was a blast. Had a few of the local track masters drive it around who drive slashes and they were beating their best lap times with it because it could carry more speed into the corners and they were mentioning something about how they likes the suspension better. Only problem I had and they mentioned also was in air corrections were very hard. Mostly to the extremely lightweight drivetrain and tires I'm guessing. I will try a heavier set of rims to see if that helps.

    Hoping to finish the rebuild on the original to the new specs by this weekend to get it on the track and see what it can do.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67Exec View Post
    To encourage some others to do this conversion I should point out that the XO -1 stuff is all that I bought new besides the 6x15x5 bearing and $4 worth of hardware. The aluminum was all free, and cut and shaped with common tools. Total cost of conversion with motor, esc, and misc parts was less than $350
    If you already have a brushless edition or more than capable motor/controller combo it ends up being cheaper my BOM is as follows:

    XO-1 motor mount and adapter (6460,6461) $6.50 x 2
    XO-1 Spurgear/ cush drive (6464,6465,6447,6448,6449,5119) $5.99
    FOC shaft 3.3 Revo (5394) $12.95
    6x15x5 acer ceramic bearing $5.00
    M3x50 $.25 x2
    M3x60 $.63 x4
    M3x25 $.15 x6
    M3x15 $.10 x4
    M3 lock nut $.10 x9
    Hollow balls x6
    material for carbon sheet $15
    Revo 3.3 chassis (5322x) $8.99

    Grand total for conversion not including my time or all of the trial and error $66.15

    If you pay retail for some of these items it will raise your total price. Also it is assuming you already have a revo to convert from. Be it either a 2.2, 3.3, or an erevo.

    I am also looking into the possibly a making a kit for anybody that would be interested and as suggested by someone for the not so crafty crowd that would prefer a true bolt on alternative.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  28. #28
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    You also used the 2.5 chassis that is 30mm shorter and yes it does cause a clearance issue with the bulkhead even with 1515. The 3.3 chassis however moves the motor forward 30mm or the rear back (whichever way you want to look at it) and it clears the rear bulkhead no problem. Using the 1717 and the 3.3 chassis it would require removal of about 1mm off of the end of the bulkhead and also leaves enough room to mount the controller right behind the motor on the lower plate
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67Exec View Post
    Any suggestions on a way to mount a center diff to the cush drive, or is the cush drive basically unneeded with a center diff?? i have seen 1/8 trucks that appear to have no slipper of any kind.
    I haven't figured a way out yet. Personally I dislike the center diff unless some really thick oil is inside because you loose your power through the wheels that are not getting traction and also you loose some braking power in the same way. Yes there are instances that they are useful but I just learn to drive without them. Its a personal preference that I don't use them, I own them just don't use them.

    If you are wanting both maybe look into a slipperential from monster RC. its the only thing I can think of that has both a slipper and a diff.

    http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...%28patented%29
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  30. #30
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    Nice... I completely enclosed the top and sides at one point but I found that the straight piece that goes from side to side is sufficient and easier to make and mount(single screw that was used to mount the rpm sensor on the front mount). As long as the front tires do not have a straight shot to the gears they stay pretty clean. On the aluminum 3.3 chassis the servo sits reward and blocks the gears especially if lowered almost negating the need for the cover altogether. I also use foam window seal to enclose the front of the top deck now that I make it out of a flat piece and it leaves a gap between the plate and frame.

    For the beadlocks try using some silicone glue instead of CA. Basically lightly assemble the tires with glue on the beads but do not tighten them. Once the glue cures (about 24 hrs) tighten the screws down. It should give you a better hold because of the thicker bead and still let you remove your tires later and the silly-cone should just peel off.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  31. #31
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    So I ended up finishing the layout. I am pretty happy with it and if I was to produce it I would go with what I have right now. I counter sunk all of the screws top and bottom and used aluminum rod tapped for the screws. I also reconfigured the center layout to use standard 3.3 sized center drive shafts so it would be a direct drop in for the nitro conversion crowd. the E-revo crowd would just have to change the drive shafts. Another thing I changed was the location of the motor so it will clear a XO-1 motor with no clearancing required of the rear bulkhead. I used a carbon chassis in the pics and also put pictures of flames on the back side to give it some color. I had a helper pick up the bottom plate before it was dry so there is some major air bubbles that are in there permanently. If this was going to be a shelf queen I would be mad but seeing as it will have a nice clay haze here soon on the bottom I am not worried. I can build the plates in just about any flat material (aluminum, steel, carbon fiber, plastic). I used .093 lexan this time to see how it turned out. I like it better than the carbon fiber as you can paint designs behind it just like as if it were a car body. It does not bend readily and should be easily replaceable as it wears.

    If it was to become a kit I would more than likely include everything from bulkhead to bulkhead (chassis, tranny, motor mounts, plates, spacers, hardware, and center driveshafts). Time will tell. The only thing I don't know is if there is even a want for something like this outside of me. As always enjoy! Comments, feedback, and complaints are always welcome.









    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  32. #32
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    Very well done mate .
    Slugs are just naturally aspirated snails

  33. #33
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    Thanks I appreciate it!
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  34. #34
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    Looks good. Nice clean work.

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    Thanks. I still need to finish one with an aluminum chassis and weigh it. The carbon fiber one weighs in at 6lbs without tires and using the lst diff mod.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  36. #36
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    I have been looking at the xo power servo,what do you think about them

  37. #37
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    Well that is good to know...question though did you have an accident prior to twisting the shaft off?
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  38. #38
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    Love it. Nice.

  39. #39
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    Well that is what happened then...How much were you able to tow before it let go? I bet the aluminum shaft would have been fine no towing. It was just the constant torque that tweaked it.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

  40. #40
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    It twisted because of the torque put through drivetrain. The plastic gave up before it sheared the shaft at the pin hole. A metal one would have held a little longer but would have resulted in a complete breakage. That is still a lot of weight though.
    If it didn't break you can do it again.

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