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  1. #1
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    2 - 3S Batteries

    Ok, I have been playing with my E-MAXX brushless for a couple of months now using 2 - 2S batteries. I am currently upgrading some broken parts and upgrading some parts that are not broken but just upgrading to toughen up my truck. I just ordered 2 - 3S batteries to move up. The Hobby shop told me not to because I will just start breaking everything. Now mind you, that is when everything was stock. Here is a list of the upgrades I will be making before I even install the 2 - 3S batteries:

    FLM10900 chassis
    FLM19000 shock towers (2)
    FLM10200 Front Combo Bulkhead
    FLM10300 Rear Combo Bulkhead
    FLM11000 Bulkhead Braces (Front & Rear)
    FLM15500 Rear Skid Plate
    FLM15600 Front Skid Plate
    RPM80462 A-Arms Black (2)
    RPM80942 True Track Rear A-Arms Black
    Traxxas Big Bore Shocks (8)

    I haven't ordered any upgrades for driveshafts, axles or anything else. So my questions are these:

    1) What else might you suggest that I think about upgrading for use with 2 - 3S batteries?

    2) In your opinion, Am I making good upgrades with the parts I listed to make my E-MAXX a much stronger truck?

    3) I like the Big Bore Shocks, but the springs seem too soft. What springs would you suggest using with the Big Bore Shocks?

    4) Would you suggest a different set of wheels and/or tires? If so, what would you suggest?

  2. #2
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    I would skip the combo bulks and go to the Ultimate Hybrid 1/8 scale bulks. I would also skip on aluminum skid plates. They will definitely not last long. Titanium skids are the way to go. Even the integy titanium skids have good reviews and I think they are your only option unless you happen to come across Hardcore Racing ti skids. Whatever you choose, put the rpm skid protectors on your list. They are not skid plates.

    I did not like the Big Bore shocks and now both of my trucks run Unlimited Engineering Supershocks. Some say they are the best shocks for emaxx on the market.

    For tires, what surface do you plan to run on? I would definitely stay away from 40 series (Big Joes, Trencher X..) tires if you don't want drivetrain problems. 3.2" tires are definitely the way to go but they are becoming pretty scarce. For offroad, I recommend the 3.8" badlands. They are amazing. For onroad, my favorite tires are the HPI Phaltlines. Plenty of grip and your truck will slide instead of traction rolling over on the street.

    For axles, the Summit's are a lot stronger than stock Emaxx. Be aware that when you buy a set, two of the shafts will be short due to the locking diffs on the summit. You can buy the replacement long shafts and be good to go. You could also go with the Traxxas steel cvd's for a little bit more money.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I would skip the combo bulks and go to the Ultimate Hybrid 1/8 scale bulks.
    Thanks for the quick reply and all of your advice. What is the difference between the 2 bulks, other than being able to use my gears that came in the stock diffs. What benefits are there to the hybrids? Sorry, I am new and I am learning.

  4. #4
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    The hybrids allow you to use the bigger stronger 1/8th scale diffs. Definetly the way to go.

  5. #5
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    Do the 1/8th scale diffs change the performance, handling or speed?

  6. #6
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    I am going to be making a thread documenting a build up of the FLM hybrid bulks and installing 1/8 scale diffs. The biggest difference is durability. Running 6s takes a toll on the drive train with the stock diffs and drive shafts breaking the most often.

    Yes, the speed is changed, but it's actually reduced because the 1/8 scale diffs are geared lower. Most just go up a tooth on the pinion to compensate. I will have more later once the rest of my parts come in.
    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  7. #7
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    Rock.A thread of the Hybred diffs nice.I'am saving my money for set.

  8. #8
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    I start out using them in this thread. I'm about to start another build using them and I will make a thread as well. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8959608
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the information. I think I will go with the hybrid bulks. My only problem now is I don't know what gears I need to get for them or where to even look.


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  10. #10
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    I have used these on about 5 builds. Ditch the cases and you have your diffs.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-HPI-VORZA-...item1c3cc6d6f5
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  11. #11
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    2 - 3S Batteries

    That's all I need with the FLM hybrid bulks for my EMAXX? Will my stock axles and driveshafts work with these? And these will fit in without having to modify anything, correct? I'm only asking because I am new at this stuff. I just want to make sure I know exactly what I'm getting myself into.
    Last edited by Denverkas; 04-15-2014 at 11:07 PM.

  12. #12
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    As far as shocks go i like my losi scte shocks. Due to the lack of availability of firmer springs i had to go with 8 shocks but they work awesomely.
    Man i need more than 50 characters.

  13. #13
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    Denverkas. Very good questions^^^^ .I would like to know the answers also because i would like to get the hybrid bulks my self.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I have used these on about 5 builds. Ditch the cases and you have your diffs.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-HPI-VORZA-...item1c3cc6d6f5
    I did purchase these off of eBay as you suggested and I purchased the Hybrid Bulkheads. My next question to you would be, is there any modifications that I have to do to make these work with the bulkheads or my EMAXX axles or driveshafts?

  15. #15
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    Do those Vorza diffs have longer pinion gears? The ones that came with my FLM Hybrid Bulks are really too short for the UE drive cups. I regularly lose front wheel drive because the driveshaft comes loose from the pinion.

  16. #16
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    i was trying to get a better look at the vorza pinions.. they almost look like they are stepped down in overall diameter. wonder if the stock traxxas cup will fit.
    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  17. #17
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    Lst2 diffs successfully installed in the hybrid bulk. I had to use a slightly thinner pinion bearing to get the mesh correct.

    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denverkas View Post
    I did purchase these off of eBay as you suggested and I purchased the Hybrid Bulkheads. My next question to you would be, is there any modifications that I have to do to make these work with the bulkheads or my EMAXX axles or driveshafts?
    what driveshafts will you be using?
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  19. #19
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    Right now I have the stock driveshafts. I was planning on picking up the traxxas steel cvd's for replacements if/when the stock one break.

  20. #20
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    if you use the steel cvd's, they will fit in the HPI vorza diff cups.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  21. #21
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    So the stock driveshafts will not fit?

  22. #22
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    Yes they will but you need to do some modifying. You will need these http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...f+output+shaft but they are not in stock. Alternatively, you can use Traxxas part #5454 and cut off the threaded portion. that way you can put your stock shafts on with the vorza diff. Don't expect the stock driveshaft to last long on 6s power though.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  23. #23
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    I bought my hybird bulks from ebay and they included the modified output shafts in the bag-o-parts. I was not expecting that little bonus.
    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  24. #24
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    Thanks for all the information.


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  25. #25
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    I forgot about the uhb's coming with those shafts. Now I know where my extra set came from lol
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  26. #26
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    it was a surprise to me. I had already cut down a set of traxxas stubs so bonus!

    Question on the Vorza pinion - how is the traxxas center drive shaft connected?
    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  27. #27
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    I don't know of a way to make the stock center shafts work with the vorza diffs. Denverkas and I used or will use an FLM chassis that comes with center dogbones that mate up to 1/8 scale diffs.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  28. #28
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    I wonder if it's possible to take the traxxas center CVD shafts and flip them around so that the dog bone end engages the vorza pinion cup. Guess we will find out because I just bought a set of the vorza diffs as well. Either that, or try to find a dog bone that will stretch the gap between the trans output cups and vorza pinion cups.
    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  29. #29
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    Rock-rod, will you let me know how much those Vorza pinions stick out when you get them? I'm still trying to figure out how long they are.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I don't know of a way to make the stock center shafts work with the vorza diffs. Denverkas and I used or will use an FLM chassis that comes with center dogbones that mate up to 1/8 scale diffs.
    Below is a picture of the Vorza and the driveshaft and dogbone that came with the FLM chassis. I also have the Hybrid Bulkheads now. Are you saying that I attach this dogbone to the Vorza pinion once I have all the guts from the Vorza installed in the Hybrid Bulkheads? If so, this dogbone is loose on the pinion shaft. That would make it off center as it spins the pinion, wouldn't it? Or am I not thinking it correctly and using the correct parts?


  31. #31
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    Take the diff out of the vorza diff case and put them in the the flm cases. Make sure that the main diff gears go on opposites sides front and rear. You should not need any shims, in fact, I recommend that you not tighten the three socket head screws all the way. Put loctite (i used red) on the socket head screws and tighten them all the way and then back off half a turn. This should allow the diffs to spin freely. If your dogbone goes side to side in the diff cup, you can use a small rubber o-ring on each side of the pin to keep the bone centered it in the cup.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    I don't know of a way to make the stock center shafts work with the vorza diffs. Denverkas and I used or will use an FLM chassis that comes with center dogbones that mate up to 1/8 scale diffs.
    I just did a test fit with a stock length chassis, it's as simple as swapping the Traxxas center cvd shafts end for end so that the cvd is on the transmission side and the dog bone end of the cvd shaft slips into the vorza pinion cup. I have to say the vorza diffs are very nice and spin really smooth in the flm bulks.
    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    Take the diff out of the vorza diff case and put them in the the flm cases. Make sure that the main diff gears go on opposites sides front and rear. You should not need any shims, in fact, I recommend that you not tighten the three socket head screws all the way. Put loctite (i used red) on the socket head screws and tighten them all the way and then back off half a turn. This should allow the diffs to spin freely. If your dogbone goes side to side in the diff cup, you can use a small rubber o-ring on each side of the pin to keep the bone centered it in the cup.
    Ok I now have the Vorza diffs installed in the hybrid bulks and the A-Arms and axles connected. I am still just stumped a little as to how to attach this dogbone from the FLM chassis to the pinion that came with the Vorza diffs. It's loose and there is a lot of play between the 2 pieces. Sorry for the confusion, I just want to make sure that I do this right the first time.


  34. #34
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    I guess to be more clear, the diameter of the pinion shaft is much smaller than the inside diameter of the dogbone. Is there a fix for that?

  35. #35
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    you probably need to use the pinion cup that came with the Vorza diff, not the FLM cup.

    to clarify the names of the parts - the dog bone is the drive shaft with the pins sticking out of the ball ends, the cup is the piece that slides over the pinion shaft and is locked in place with the set screw.
    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  36. #36
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    rock-rod I guess I will have to go to the Hobby shop because there was not a pinion cup on the Vorza diff. what you see in my picture is all that was on the Vorza diff before I installed it in the Hybrid bulkhead.

    As well, thank you for the clarification on the names. I was sure that I probably had the the names of the parts wrong, but I just went with it. I am learning as I go. And now that I look at the parts, the shape of the driveshaft does look like a "doggone". So again thanks for clearing me up in that.

  37. #37
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    the vorza diff set did not come with them. You need two of these: HPI 103663 This sight has them cheaper
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  38. #38
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    The ones I bought on eBay from dollar hobby included all of the cups.
    Revo 3.3, EMBE 6s, ERBE 6s (x2), Summit 4s

  39. #39
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    he didn't buy them from dollarhobbyz. I gave him a link to Lumidave because they were cheaper for both. I did not think about how they didn't include the pinion drive cups.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  40. #40
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    Well I have real bad news, the HPI103663 pinion cup is out of stock everywhere I have looked. If you know of a place where it can be ordered, please let me know.

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