I am about to replace my old trenchers and had a couple of questions.
I manly go off road with just a few pavement runs.
I am looking at the 2.2 or 2.8 sizes and wanted to get opinions.
I am leaning towards 2.8 as this is what I had previously.
I also wanted to get Beadlocks but am struggling to find 2.8 beadlocks in 12mm to fit my rusty front (offsite) and rears.
Has anyone used these and where did you get them.
Or if anyone has any better tyre suggestions i am all ears.
Hi, welcome to the hobby. I think you can only get bead locks in a 2.2" size. The 2.2" are mostly found on short course trucks like the slash. Bead locks with a 2wd brushless rc truck means that if your tires balloon (or turn into pizza cutters) this will stretch out the bead, and it will pull away from the bead lock. I have also been hunting for some 2.8" 12mm hex wheels with real bead locks for a long time too. Couldn't find any. I only found the 2.2" type called the Spilt six by pro line.
Glued wheels and tires don't come apart easily but they don't really come off unless they are glued properly. I really liked the bead lock idea until I saw this photo
Oh and also if your temps are high, gear down if needed
Yea it is a shame they don't make good 2.8 beadlocks.
I did hear of some 2.2's beadlocks that have better grip however, but don't remember what brand they were.
But then it comes down to should I go 2.2 or 2.8....
that or I could just make it easy and get 2.8 on deperardos and be done with it.......
Well, also knowing how to glue tires properly is a good skill. I myself have only bought pre-mounted ones from pro line, but if you have extra rims sitting around and some ca tire glue, you will actually save money when you buy just the tires, but you might save like $20 or so. The best method to remove release the ca glue is to boil the wheels in a pot on the stove, just do it in small intervals at a time until you can pull the tire from the bead. But be warned, the holes in the rims that allow the glue to vent it's vapors from the inside of the tire, boiling water gets through those holes and into the foam, and when you pull out the tire, well, it squirts scalding hot water on your hands, so be carful and wear rubber gloves. If you leave the wheels in for too long, you can warp or melt them. The other methods include baking, acetone. The baking method can warp and melt your wheels, you put it in the oven lol. The acetone well, it's nasty stuff. It will actually dissolve some rims, and eat the paint.
I think you should go the 2.8" way and remember to gear down, these pro line tires have more rolling resistance and put more stress on the motor if not geared right.
To start off I think you should get trenchers 2.8" pre mounted on desperado rims
I think I drowned you in a sea of information whoops, sorry
Last edited by Spencer911; 03-22-2014 at 11:09 PM.
Naaa not at all.
I actually have had the 2.8 trenchers but I tried to go to hard core... LOL
I used to tape them to try and stop the ballooning and glue them on the rims myself.
Can I say glueing is such a hassle it is not worth the money you save on rims.
And to add to this forever did I find the tape was breaking and I had to remove them, clean and re-glue
I used to bake them to get the tires off and it just stuck up the whole house.
Did try the boiling option once and yep you gotta watch that hot water.
So this time round though I would explore the options of either 2.2 or stick with 2.8 but get them pre mounted and just deal wit the ballooning.
But i also thought it was worth looking into the beadlock option but that looks like it might be a dead stick.
Yeah I feel the same. Beadlocks look like a not so bright idea for 2wd brushless stadium truck monsters
Actually you do save money if you buy just the tires and mount them yourself if you have rims and tire glue. Two pro line rims are like $10 for two
I have been debating the 2.8 Trenchers or Badlands. I am leaning towards the Trenchers though because I have owned the badlands before with my NR. I believe it almost had too much grip to be honest. I was twisting factory axles and it would pull the front wheels like no other. With either choice I am debating going 19T or 20T pinion with the factory 83T spur. Not to thread jack, but saber, you may be wondering the same thing. I am running the 2075 servo. Do I need to worry about the Trenchers or Badlands over working the servo or is this one strong enough?
I know I am not saber, but I have been running the badlands with the stock 2075 digital waterproof traxxas servo on my rusty vxl. It seems to work fine. I am not currently running on a high amp or 3cell lipo. I am running on the wimpy 3300mah 2s 7.4 25c lipos from traxxas. I haven't owned a 3s before, but that is maybe my next thought. My first hobby grade rc car was a 1/5 scale HPI baja 5b clone that I got a while back like in 2010 for my birthday. I enjoyed it for like two or so years, and then thought hmm, why not go electric, electric gives you the ability to bring your rc car to a public park full of people. I went to a park buzzed it around the oval walking ring. And then even shredded up the grass in the process lol. The park rangers didn't seem to care. That is why electric is so great. "Plug in and play", not try to start a modded weed trimmer engine on a 1/5 HPI Baja 5b clone by king motor until your arm feels like it's gonna fall off. Sorry to get off topic. I know that is frowned upon in any forum no matter what.
So back on track, I would suggest the trenchers but gear down from the stock factory 25t pinion. I have been running the badlands and boy does it get hot with stock gearing. I need to drop the 25t to like a 20t and put a 3s lipo in it lol. The badlands have lugs which can wear down more quickly than he trenchers. The trenchers on the other hand have more surface area on the tread, but the tread has like sipes in the big treads to make them grip better. The badlands are strictly off road, while the trenchers are an "all terrain" tire.
Hope his sorta answers that question, sorry if I got off topic, and I think I may have taken sabers chance to reply with his opinion sorry all.
Last edited by Spencer911; 03-24-2014 at 09:59 PM.
i have beadlocks on my 2wd slash and my rustler just ducktape the inside of the wheel also the beadlocks are the short couse size wheels but i have have read i in rc driver or radio control action the there will be a 2.8 beadlocks from proline
WHY IS IT THE PEOPLE TELL PEOPLE SOMETHINGS WONT WORK I LOVE THE PROLINE BEADLOCKS SO MUCH EASY TO USE
Kyosho Inferno VE, Anza Slash, Rustler VXL
I have heard of the split six, but just haven't been confident to buy some of them, mainly because well, they are much smaller then the 2.8", they are 2.2"
A lot of the 2.2 tires are not that different in overall height compared to 2.8 tires. The 2.2 have bigger sidewalls which I think would is better for bashing. Meaning a little more cushion. But that's just my opinion.
Sent from my SCH-I535
I am running the VLX 2S servo. I also put on the Fan but don't know if it actually does anything.
I also have the temp monitor hooked up to the motor to keep an eye on temps.
On a hot day you do need to be careful that you don't overheat. But I find that provided you keep an eye on things you will be fine.
But I do like the extra speed of the 23T. You could always go to a 19T will be less work for the motor so that's probably a good thing.