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  1. #1
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    Soup's 2-in-1 E-Maxx Build

    I gotta say, the 3903 E-Maxx is pretty cool r/c truck. I took through a small creak, drove around on a track I made out snow in my front yard one winter season, got it very muddy one time, and did some rock crawling with it. Now it's time to upgrade it. Take a real good at it, because it will never be the same once it is done.





    As the title say, another E-Maxx is part of this build as well, a 3906, but my current goal with this truck is to get it running again so anything that is being replaced on the 3903 is being transfer over. Don't worry I got few things for it a;ready once I upgrade this to brushless someday.

    Let's see what I been collecting all this time... STAND BACK this box is about to burst.



    Well... look at this treasure trove.



    I got most of the stuff in that box, even the 3906 in pieces.



    Well let the building begin
    Last edited by SouperkNight; 03-10-2014 at 06:31 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Did you say Traxxas?

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  3. #3
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    Should be a beautiful build. Looking forward to the progress!

    What tires did you choose?

  4. #4
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    Thank you. Pro-Line Trencher Xs on F-11 Rims

    This what I got done so far....









    Ok 3903 chassis is completey stripped down. Now before the 3906 receive the front and rear section, I have removed one side of screws to salvage the differentials for the 3903.







    Now I going to redo both the 3903 and 3906 diffs, new grease and heavy diff fluid. 120k up front and 100k at the back. Plus clean and re-lube the bearings that the 3906 will using since the other one is getting fresh Boca Bearings.



    Lots of dirty work here. Finally got all of them sprayed with motor cleaner to be re-grease today. The 3906 diffs were terrible, some of the gunk has harden so it took me a while to get it out. Well that's it for now I was looking forward to dye some stuff, but I have to buy myself a pot since my dad won't let me use one of his so i can't really put anything together for the 3903 . Anyway its late and I'm tired so I might get the soldering part over with for the Dewalt later on.
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  5. #5
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    Finished up cleaning the diffs. Gave the plastic parts a rub a dub dub and dry them with an air compressor. For the gears and metal parts I just wiped them off with a paper towel.

    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-21-2014 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Merge to correct images.
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  6. #6
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    Are you building 2 trucks???
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Are you building 2 trucks???
    Yes in post 2, at the right in pic there is a 3906 chassis in between a roll cage (not part of the build ) and 12 packs of screws. I disassembled last year to save space for my desk. Unfortunately most of those parts you see is for the 3903.

    I got powerstrokes, UE idlers, and few others things for the 3906, but I'm not installing since I got more parts on the list for it. Right now I am getting it running by using most of the parts from the 3903.


    @everyone

    Ok so I had rough time yesterday when I started filling one of the 3903 diffs housing. After I got assembled, it barely turn, I even slid something in one of the holes that the drive shaft grip one. I thought I put too much fluid in so I re-clean the gears and housing.

    Before I filled it up again, I test fit first to see what the problem was. I found out that tighten the screws all the way down was the issue. I loosen screws just enough to fix the problem.



    I took a screwdriver to mark the ones that are for the front.




    I didn't do much yesterday because after I got the diff housing re-soaked in motor cleaner, I walked away from my project to do something else to take my mind of the incident before redoing it.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-21-2014 at 11:06 PM. Reason: Merge to correct images.
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  8. #8
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    Made some progress.

    I cleaned up both front and rear sections a bit and the driveshafts as well. Now assembly time for the 3906.



    Here is where it is done for now.



    Obviously some of this has to be cut for both half shafts. I have to do it later on today.



    I thought the front center shaft will fit like a glove. Guess I'm going to buy a rear one and cut it at the right length.



    I also going to have to do some grinding on the chassis for the thicker shafts. My only concern is that the area where driveshaft hits at is thin so grinding maybe tricky



    I'm now started to fall asleep so that's pretty much it for last night and the start of the day.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-21-2014 at 11:09 PM. Reason: Merge to correct images.
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  9. #9
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    Looks good. seems like you got two nice projects. Ya, 3906 has a different chassis length and tranny positioning. Thats my one major gripe with the GEN 2 is they put the tranny way to far foward. Front weight bias kills handling, especially when you put on bigger motors. O well.

    Instead of cutting a bunch of shafts could get the 3906 RC BEST shafts from ebay for $15... they arnt great quality but they are $15...
    This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!

  10. #10
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    Thank you. It may seems boring to see me putting nothing but stocks parts on this truck, but I got a sweet body that will spice it up a bit. I'll reveal it later in the progress.

    As for the shafts not only did I already cut the one at the right length, but I also brought another set. Looks like I'm continuing this path.

    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-21-2014 at 11:10 PM. Reason: Merge to correct images.
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  11. #11
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    Did some grinding on the underside. Just enough room for the shaft to move freely.



    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-21-2014 at 11:11 PM. Reason: Merge to correct images.
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  12. #12
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    Taking a break on the 3906. Now I'm switching over to the 3903, here is a closer look at the new power plant. A 14v DeWalt motor and the new MXL-6s. I'm going to replace the four 12 gauge wires on the motor with two 10 gauge ones.

    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-21-2014 at 11:12 PM. Reason: Merge to correct images.
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  13. #13
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    The process of the soldering (me doing it on my own for the first time)

    First removing the current wires.





    Finished soldering one side of the new wires.





    So guys how well did I perform in those last two pics above this sentence? I want to make sure before continuing.

    Sloppy for one thing and wires feel and look like they are glued. I had to flatten them with pliers so that the brushes can be slid back in all the way.




    I have yet to solder the CC Bullets, they seem harder to get the wire soldered in there. I have been watching videos on how to do it, but now I'm calling it a night.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-21-2014 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Merge to correct images.
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  14. #14
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    I finished soldering all the connectors. Glad I got this part out of the way.



    I might have the polarity mixed up, but I set it up for the pic.

    Last edited by cooleocool; 03-21-2014 at 11:15 PM. Reason: Merge to correct images.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouperkNight View Post
    I finished soldering all the connectors. Glad I got this part out of the way.



    I might have the polarity mixed up, but I set it up for the pic.

    I’m not sure if you ever mentioned why you went with a brushed motor, but why not a brushless motor?
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  16. #16
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    Looks great so far. Nothing better than a pile of parts and a project to work on!!

    FLM BL E-Maxx - BL Slash - BL 4Tec - 1/16th Fiesta - Wraith - SCX-10 - Custom Axial 6WD - Custom Losi micro Monster Truck - Losi Micro-T Hummer - Custom Losi Micro Peterbilt Crawler - soon '65 Malibu Micro T Drifter
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouperkNight View Post
    Finished soldering one side of the new wires.

    . . . and wires feel and look like they are glued.
    They should feel pretty solid. To me, it looks like you didn't tin the wires enough (note the strands of wire sticking out). I'd recommend redoing those joints.
    "Happiness depends upon ourselves." -Aristotle

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apexracing View Post
    I’m not sure if you ever mentioned why you went with a brushed motor, but why not a brushless motor?
    I was eager to get the MM2 Combo ever since it came out, but since my 3903 going to pull a trailer and plow snow and, maybe some rock crawler, I wanted more torque. I was going to hook the motor to the EVX-2, but I want more tuning options from the MM2. I was planning on getting the MM2 at first, but since I'm doing a black and blue color theme I went with the MXL-6s instead (plus save some time from soldering)


    @cooleocool

    Better safe than sorry. I realized it when I was watching how to solder bullet connectors, the person in the video said get your wires nicely tin before soldering them to something. At least the good news is I tinned the ends pretty good for the bullet connectors.
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  19. #19
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    Ya, soldering is an art that takes lots of time and burns to do well. Helps to have a good iron, i use a 120W gun for my stuff.

    BTW, while your in there with those diffs, you wanna upgrade bulks? Obvously a weak point, and RPM bulks are $15 an end, and so far prove very durable... Sorry if i missed something and you already are, but just thought id mention it.

    Also, all the pics after post 5 disappeared. anyone else get that?
    This parrot is NO MORE!!! This is an ex-parrot!!!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerToTheMaxx View Post
    Ya, soldering is an art that takes lots of time and burns to do well. Helps to have a good iron, i use a 120W gun for my stuff.

    BTW, while your in there with those diffs, you wanna upgrade bulks? Obvously a weak point, and RPM bulks are $15 an end, and so far prove very durable... Sorry if i missed something and you already are, but just thought id mention it.

    Also, all the pics after post 5 disappeared. anyone else get that?
    I have a 60W for my first iron. I think its good since it can heat up to over 800 degrees. Now you're talking about 3906 diffs right because I got FLM Bulks for the 3903. This is the most expensive build I did and it could of been more ii I wait to get more stuff for the old E-Maxx, but I couldn't resist to start building when I got lots parts just sitting there asking me to put them together.

    I'm at a roadblock for the 3903 progress, and may have to switch back over to the other truck, but that's not the only reason I have not posted anything until now.


    @everybody
    Those pics that won't show up was because I decided to organize my pics on photobucket. Learned the hard way. I been talking with cooleocool for a few days and he is willing to help me get my pics back.

    He requested me to re-post the pics so when he gets on he will then merge them back to their original posts. I asked will this prevent my total post from increasing when they are merged which I want. He said it should happen.


    So the 8 posts below this one are temporary.
    Last edited by SouperkNight; 03-21-2014 at 10:53 PM.
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  21. #21
    Traxxas Marshal cooleocool's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouperkNight View Post
    Those pics that won't show up was because I decided to organize my pics on photobucket. Learned the hard way. I been talking with cooleocool for a few days and he is willing to help me get my pics back.
    Everything should be all set now.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooleocool View Post
    Everything should be all set now.
    Thank you cooleocool. I wasn't expecting you show up this late depending whatever the road takes you lol. Sorry for taking your time to fix my issues.

    @ Post 20

    Sweet 400 posts. 2600 more to go.
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  23. #23
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    I took these earlier on the 3903 progress. The first two were taken before this thread was even started.



    Both of the trucks' chassis and transmission side by side, with stuff in the middle being transfer to 3906. I took the 1st top gear off the old Maxx top shaft so I can modded onto the newer shaft off the 3903. I have an extra input shaft (3992) just in case I mess up modding the first used one.



    I then apply motor cleaner to the tranny case and components.



    Now some 3903 progress.



    Greasing up the the areas where the the a-arms meets the bulks. As well as the hing pins that slides into the holes.





    Putting in the front diff. I found out that the FLM bulks comes with only two hinge pins so I'm installing just the bottom ones for now.



    I'll post the rest of what I have so far later.
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  24. #24
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    The screw at the top came with RPM bulk braces. Below it is the stock screw. I'm a little surprise that the RPM ones are a little short, but look like they have deeper threads on them. My hex screwdrivers won't work on the oddly different hex size screws.

    I been able to find something that will fit in the screws a 10 point star bit if I said that correctly. Don't know what happen to the screwdriver that use these bits. I going to use a drill instead.



    I just have the TQI on not the ESC as it may have to recalibrated. I'm really actually using my dad's drill not this silly idea.





    That's more like.




    I got one set partly done then I did the same thing for the other one. I mixed up the bumper mounts.





    That's all I have so far. I removed the lower arms as I deciding that the hinge pins are not going to work. RPM arms are a little thick so I need a longer pin. I'm thinking of trying some Plastix Injector pins. Despite being thick, the arms can move freely on the bulks with little to no binding.

    I was looking at someone build thread not too long in the brushless E-Maxx category and the person dyed the dust boots/pivot ball cover for the arms and hubs black. I going try this.
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  25. #25
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    I have to switch back to the 3906 since I have to get a few stuff for the 3903. Last night I did some work transmission, modified the newer input shaft so the 3906 can use the new style slipper clutch. I used a 2mm hex key wrench as a spacer to get the top first gear to line up correctly with the idler gear.



    I clamped a vice pliers against the first gear as much as possible to wedge the hex key in between both gears then I drilled a new hole for the old gear.





    Got the gear installed. The hex key I used for as a spacer became the pin to hold it in place. I slid the shaft in and gear mess lines up perfectly.



    Recently finished modifying the top shaft today. As pictured above is the red line where I stopped dremeling when I got the shaft at the right length. I questioned the process even before I started as I thought why not just drill a hole in the gearbox so the back of shaft can stick out. Probably save time, but I thought this was better as the 3903/5 and 3908 tranny have the tip of the shaft exposed at the back which does not make sense.

    Anyway like I said perfect except those plastic idlers.



    Call me crazy, but I am seriously using those until I get tons of goodies for this truck someday and I don't think Titan motors will shred them up that quick than brushless. Nothing much but a little grease to finish it, but I may call it a day.
    Last edited by SouperkNight; 03-24-2014 at 06:11 PM.
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  26. #26
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    I got sought of a crazy part going on with the 3906 just happen recently. So got everything done with the transmission. The motor mount came off another one I got off of ebay last year. Got lots goodies that came with it and saving those for that rainy day. Before I move on, I took the pin out and moved the slipper clutch back to see if the gear cover will fit once I mod the slipper position.



    Nothing workout for me even grinding those things in the back of the hub alloy. I have two options I thought of: Do some grinding on the mount or gear cover or Plan B. The other tranny came with a Robinson spur gear, but I rather save it for the rainy day.



    I began shaping the oddly new cover.



    Carefully making the guide lines.



    Can't get any better than that.



    The shape of it is appearing.



    Same technique as before.



    I really think this won't prevent all of the dust and dirt from getting in but it better than no cover and its free. My plans for it is that once I got the shape of it I going to make it stronger at some spots with a little shoe goo and lexan scrape. Wish me luck on this.
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  27. #27
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    Why not just use some small spacers between the gear cover and the motor plate?

    Quote Originally Posted by SouperkNight View Post
    I got sought of a crazy part going on with the 3906 just happen recently. So got everything done with the transmission. The motor mount came off another one I got off of ebay last year. Got lots goodies that came with it and saving those for that rainy day. Before I move on, I took the pin out and moved the slipper clutch back to see if the gear cover will fit once I mod the slipper position.



    Nothing workout for me even grinding those things in the back of the hub alloy. I have two options I thought of: Do some grinding on the mount or gear cover or Plan B. The other tranny came with a Robinson spur gear, but I rather save it for the rainy day.



    I began shaping the oddly new cover.



    Carefully making the guide lines.



    Can't get any better than that.



    The shape of it is appearing.



    Same technique as before.



    I really think this won't prevent all of the dust and dirt from getting in but it better than no cover and its free. My plans for it is that once I got the shape of it I going to make it stronger at some spots with a little shoe goo and lexan scrape. Wish me luck on this.
    Man i need more than 50 characters.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apexracing View Post
    Why not just use some small spacers between the gear cover and the motor plate?
    I did thought of that plus all I have to do is tocover that gap every time with tape or something. Since I got this far with this makes shift gear cover, I'm actually enjoying it. That block of wood in the third pic is going to be a central skid plate. I just have to cut down to the right thickness.
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  29. #29
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    Few updates on the gear cover. I didn't use any lexan scrap yet.





    While the gear cover won't be work on until 24 hours have passed with the shoe goo. I deciding to get the steering started as I wanted to make sure there won't be any issues between it and front central shaft.







    After testing, there was an issue, when the truck go left all the way, the part that the servo horn hook onto will rub the thicker rear shaft that I intended to use for the front.



    Did this painful mod last night. I thought of this at work and I believed it was going to be easy. Since I have two too short front shafts now, I came up with this idea by taking two of the same ends (external) and cut one of the opposites ends (internal) as a spacer.



    The first spacer (below the second one) was simple and easy. Unfortunately it was a bust and although both end were able to reach both the tranny and diff without splitting, there is some play in the middle. I was going to put ca glue on one end, but it won't fix the wobbling.

    The second attempt was hard and time consuming for me and with one internal splined left, mistakes cannot be tolerated on this shaft. The goal was to get one of the external ends through the other side of the spacer while still be able to grip the inside. I used a lot of tools and took me maybe 3 hours to get just right.

    I'm wondering if I'm the only person who done this mod.
    Last edited by SouperkNight; 03-28-2014 at 10:35 AM.
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  30. #30
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    I finished grinding the other side for the modded shaft and got the steering system soaked in motor cleaner. Doing a little bit at a time to make more room on my desk as I am getting some stuff for the 3903.



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  31. #31
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    Nothing much since I need one thing for the 3906. I just got some shopping done finally on the web, I bought a pack of longer countersunk screws (one of those things I didn't realize that was needed) for the 3906 reciever box since it got to rest on the chassis walls. 1/8" Plastix ejector pins and 1/8" shaft collars.

    In the mean time I going to finish the new gearbox cover and try to get started dying parts black and spray paint some black parts blue. The 3903 transmission case has been soaking in pool of soapy water, emptied and refilled the container with water only this time I added dish soap. I have not decided to whether or not paint the Dewalt motor black or blue yet.
    Last edited by SouperkNight; 03-28-2014 at 09:38 PM.
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  32. #32
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    Looks good. that is an interesting driveshaft mod. i suppose if you have the parts, why not, although I think it will suck if/when that breaks. Maybe then youll just hit up ebay for some cheap CVDs or something
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    Thanks it wasn't easy and 3 hours may be ridiculous, but I took my time take on this. I didn't just made a hole on the other side so the shaft can grip the existing internal splines. I have to add on to the splines. I used a 1/16" drill bit which was perfect, but I could of try a 5/64" bit. I used the splines as a guide for the drill bit to line the holes correctly to them.

    1/16" was best choice and I have to angled the bit so it won't climb over the edge where the hole was made. I had luck with most of the splines, but some forced me to drill the other side. Then I have to do some grinding and my concern was as I was the widening the new splines the gaps in between looked too thin. I finally got one of the shafts in the spacer by hitting with a hammer a few times

    It seems pretty tight, the only way to get it out is a vice and a hammer and a thing to reach the other end inside the spacer. I was thinking of applying ca glue, but I chose not to.
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  34. #34
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    One thing you could try, is get some pvc tube that will barely fit over the female shaft and butt the ends against the yoke attachments. Slip a little glue in between. I've done that to strengthen/elongate driveshafts on crawlers.

    Kinda like this. (This is a vastly different and smaller truck, but the same idea.)



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  35. #35
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    I was thinking something like that Maxxxmasher. After I got the mod I was thinking using pvc or something similar for next time. Here is a pic of the spacer with the new side made. I kind of got sloppy a bit and there are a very few ridges that are too shallow.

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  36. #36
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    Been awhile, I'm finishing up the gear cover. I have it mounted to the motor mount and the tranny mounted to the chassis for the shoe gooing (I thought it might help to get a perfect fit). I got most of the stuff for the 3903. Once I got a few things done to 3906, I'll have a enough room for the 3903.



    I have two things against the walls and a some tape to hold the one of the top ends. It the walls may look bended, but I'm going to remove them soon since it been like 3 hrs if the walls don't separate. Once remove the will bend back to normal.




    Update:

    Looks pretty good.



    Last edited by SouperkNight; 04-02-2014 at 08:30 PM.
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    The 3906 is coming together. The Titan motors have received maintenance...



    and I did some more work on it. Using a Traxxas 2075 servo for the steering. This came off my Bandit and was suppose to be for a police car (noticeable in post 1) build that I haven't made any progress on it yet. I'm pretty sure I have servo horn for it otherwise I may have to use the Bandit's servo saver since its not even done yet.



    For the shifting servo, I use one of the 2055 servos from the 3903 and it acts like one as I tested the truck already. Got the diffs right so I can put most of the screws back in. I'm holding the ESC so the receiver box can be seen.



    I have to reshape the gear cover in some spots and as well as cutting the bottom out or I have to remove the ESC for clearance. I also have to put longer wires on the motor. I may be able to use the 12 gauge wires I took off the DeWalt.

    The 3903 is coming soon as I won't work on the gear cover and the issues I pointed out for now.
    Did you say Traxxas?

    Yes with or without lipos.

  38. #38
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    That's enough work on the 3906 for now.



    Took me awhile to get the shifting to work. I got it to switch between first and second gear without any issues. The operation however, is reversed, but I won't get both trucks' shifting mixed up since I be using two different transmitters (maybe).



    Not sure if this servo saver is from my Bandit, but it's most likely is from it. The servo has be switched around due to binding. Operation was also the opposite, but I fixed that with my TQI.



    Pretty close. If a shorten rear shaft was in this modded shaft's place there will be problems. The servo can move that piece closer to the shaft, but I used the TQI's tunings to set the end points for the steering.



    Time to work on the 3906's younger sister. She probably already jealous from seeing most of the work being done on her sister.



    With all this space now it is time to get to it.



    I was expecting an old pot, but my dad gave my this old turkey pot. What a coincidence, I just watched some more videos about dying and I saw a person using a turkey pot. lol

    Did you say Traxxas?

    Yes with or without lipos.

  39. #39
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    Ohio
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    I almost got the front and rear sections done. This what I did yesterday, I have to grind the areas a bit where the rear bulkheads meets the chassis. It is one of the two issues I had with the FLM bulks so far.



    The first problem was the lower screws for the suspension tower going in the holes on the opposite side. I did have ideas like put a locking nut on the other side to hole the tower. The front was good, but rear still required the back of the chassis to be grind down some more because of the screw heads.

    Working on the front section. I went with the stock way as you just can't beat 4 screws as oppose to 8 (I have to remove ether the front or rear section just to remove 4 screws on the tower if I went with the other way). I put tape around the L wrench so it would not scratch the bulks.



    Getting the the measurements to cut the pins at the right length.



    I put o-rings on the diffs to see if it will make a difference on both trucks. Dirt and other thing find ways to get on the bearings. So with the these they might keep stuff from getting behind them.







    Got rear done today and here it is withe the front.



    I made a flat spot on the collar shafts on the upper pins so the won't be in the way of the chassis.



    Did you say Traxxas?

    Yes with or without lipos.

  40. #40
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    May 2013
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    Ohio
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    469
    The sections are almost done.





    Found out I need to buy pivot balls. Ether way I'm going have to dye some parts when I get the chance.
    Did you say Traxxas?

    Yes with or without lipos.

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