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Thread: 1st Revo Build

  1. #1
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    1st Revo Build

    So I have started counting down the days until I get off the rig. 4 more to go. I will be starting my first Revo build. My girl says I have about 9 packages waiting at the house and I will be making a few stops to the LHS when I get there also. Not much to do but surf the internet out here on my off time and that makes for a Christmas like return home when the packages stack up!

    My worst enemy is when I have a minute to day dream about what I want to do with it when I get home.

    First I picked up my buddies Revo that had about 4 tanks through it for $250. It is about 2 years old. Awesome shape and had a brand new 3.3 in it that I had to break in. He burned up the first engine trying to get it to flip back over with wheel spin. Ooops. Ill take it!

    What's I have waiting at the house:

    Traxxas Platinum Edition Body
    Slip stream body
    Ofna .28 JL Max Nitro Engine
    THS146b Tuned pipe
    JP4 Jammin Side Mount Tuned pipe (couldn't decide which pipe to run)
    20t and 17t Robinson Racing Hard Clutch Bells
    37t Steel Spur Gear
    Traxxas Center Diff
    Traxxas Rear Brake Kit
    MC2 3 Shoe Clutch
    Traxxas Sway Bar Kit
    Traxxas Toe Links Black
    Traxxas Response Pro Tires
    Pro Line Road Rage 1/2" off set Tires
    Traxxas Revo Wing/Mount
    Traxxas Telemetry Temp Sensor
    Traxxas TQI4 Tx and Rx
    Traxxas 10/30/50k diff oil

    There is some more stuff that I might have forgot but you get the idea. I will be posting some picks starting Friday. I have to completely strip it down for a good cleaning first. Bashed it pretty hard when I got it.

    If you have any suggestions on upgrades please feel free to let me know.

    Stay Tuned.

  2. #2
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    that centre diff wont like the power from the .28 , I had to go with the foc even with 500k oil in the cd it still got overpowered.
    keep us posted on the build.

  3. #3
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    Thanks! I did get the FOC also since it comes in the Traxxas big block kit but read a lot about the Center Diff so I grabbed it for cheap while on a hobby shopping binge. I did get 500k diff oil also.

    Should I change the rear springs to help for the bigger engine?

  4. #4
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    I run 2 revos spring wise on the .26 powered 3.3 chassis I run green front ,vd kit with 1.0mm pistons rear I run gold spring vd 1.0mm and 45wt oil all round and sway bars.
    on the .28 powered 2.5 chassis I run green front and tan rear with 50wt all round and no sway bars , the .28 has heaps more torque and I noticed the rear end would slap a fair bit and squat heavily under acceleration . at the moment it also has p3 pushrods with p2 rocks to give it a bit more travel in the rear it seems to reduce the wheelies for now but I need more time to set it up fully.
    you may also want to consider the m2c engine brace to limit the chassis bending and keeping consistent gear mesh.

  5. #5
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    Thanks! I will definitely check out the engine brace. I know the .28 has a bunch of torque and I want to burn off some of the torque to try to keep the front wheels on the ground with out sacrificing too much. I did get the 20t clutch bell to throw in the mix but have read that most guys are running the 17/36 set up. Do you have any experience with the 20t clutch bell? Was reading up on the wide gear ratio also. So much to consider and test. It is going to be a short three weeks off.

  6. #6
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    I'm not sure about a 20t ,it should pull it off but it may be a bit sluggish off the line. I am running 17/36 and will be trying out a 18t the next time I am out also using wide ratio trans ,I use the close ratio once in my maxx with a rb 523 and didn't like it at all way too short for a big engine. you may also want to go with the hd slipper or a RR setup I have started with the factory slipper and its just holding together atm I'm just waiting for parts and i'll do the 2.5 brake disc mod to the slipper I think

  7. #7
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    So I have finally arrived home and my girl wasn't' lying. I had about 12 boxes waiting on me just inside the front door. It was a Christmas like home coming. Here are a few pics of what I have laying around.



  8. #8
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    I also grabbed the M2C engine brace and a set of the aluminium push rods. I did go with the wide ratio gears also. I went ahead and scooped up the RR Steel transmission Wide ratio gear set. It is going to be a long weekend of building. I am going to break this thing down do a cleaning and then start putting all this stuff on while following parts of Slayden's suggestions in his tuning guide.


    Once I get most of it installed and get the motor broke in I should be able to start evaluating what I want to keep on it and what I have that was a little over thought. Like I said, not much to do on your off time out there but surf the internet and think up stuff to do to the Revo. I may have went a little over board but who cares. I am grinning like a mad man rubbing my hands together.
    Last edited by RC4Lifer; 03-15-2014 at 06:05 AM.

  9. #9
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    Awesome! I am curious to hear how this all comes together.

  10. #10
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    Well 1st step completed. I tore into the Revo last night and had to finish this morning. Eased out of bed like a ninja to behold the mess that I had made the night before. I own a TMAXX and it has nothing on the Revo! I have parts laying everywhere. So I Broke it down to the frame and got an old tooth brush and cleaned all the nooks and crannies out of that fine dust/dirt. I am going to tear into the trans first and change all the gears there and then move around accordingly. This might take a while.

  11. #11
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    Just make sure the diffs say "UP" and are the right orientation when reinstalling or it will have to come back apart.
    Have fun and enjoy! I didn't go that deep into cleaning my Revo last week but spent the better part of six hours doing it.
    The Super Derecho

  12. #12
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    Started going back together last night. Got the gears changed out in the transmission. We will have to wait and see how that works. Ill install the rear brake kit later on. I Got the Sway bar kit on and the new push rods and toe links installed along with the wing. The engine is just in there for the time being. I have to get some longer screws for the M2C engine brace to work the way I want it to. Ill grab some extra springs for the rear when I go the LHS. Everything is coming along nicely so far.




  13. #13
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    awesome looking revo, rear tires are on wrong side lol

  14. #14
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    Haha! That is funny. I have since swapped them. I guess I wasn't paying attention. I have so much stuff going and there is a lot of parts that have come off this thing.

    I did get the radio installed and throttle and brake linkage. Engine brace is the way I want it. I tried to start it yesterday so I could start to break it in. I did have a little trouble but nothing I can't fix this morning. It was getting a little late when I tried it. I need to get an adapter or a small block header gasket to make the THS pipe work. I will be going with the THS for break in. Everything is coming together nicely and the engine look awesome in the Revo

    I still have the rear brake to put on and am wanting to swap the servos for the throttle. I will be leaving the stock steering servos until one of them goes out.

    I have to look at the carbs high speed needle housing where the fuel goes in. The nipple that you attach the fuel line to is pointing directly at the spur gear with a little less than a quarter of an inch between them. For break in I can live with that but everyday driving it will cause problems. I am sure you can turn it about 90 degrees but I need to really check it out. I can't wait for the sun to come up so I can start her up.

  15. #15
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    im liking your build thread... how do you remember what length screws goes in what hole? Wehn I tear mine down I thread the screw part way back into its hole once that part is apart so I dont forget where they go
    Traxxas please sell kits!

  16. #16
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    I had to line the fuel nipple up with the rear shock screw if that makes sense ,however I had the screw back out and split the fuel line on my last big outing and its been fine since.
    as for the bb adaptor check ebay a member on another forum made them for a while and the work like a charm other than that you can try double up the manifold gaskets but that is a real pain.
    both my revo builds I am using a 2070/2075 servo for brake /throttle and for the price and duty they're spot on if you find you are have flex issues with the servo mount go for the xtreme racing c/f throttle mount works a treat and looks cool too.

  17. #17
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    So it was super simple fix. Just loosened up the nut and turned the nipple about 90 degrees in the direction I wanted it to go. It works perfectly now. I also got it started and ran the first 2 tanks through it to start the break in process. Previously I told you guys that I was going to use the THS pipe to break it in. Well I decided to use the Ofna JP4 instead. There was no long thought process that decided which one I was going to use. It was jjst the case of the Ofna being closer to me when I decided to install the pipe. I have to admit that I really like the look of the side mount. I still need to get an adapter or another manifold gasket to make it fit properly but it is on there and serving its purpose. I may not like it as much when I go to putting the bodies on though.

    I also installed the temp/voltage telemetry unit. It reads the temp nicely but i haven't compared that to the temp gun readings yet though, that should be interesting. I am thinking about maybe trying the gps module for speed too. We will have to see about that once I find out how much they are.

    Still tons of stuff to do. I am still wondering if the tranny is going to shirt after I changed our all the gears. Ill get back on after I get here broke in and tuned up. Until then here is a pic of her with the side bleed ofna jammin jp4.


  18. #18
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    Just finished the body. Started just wanting to put on a couple of racing stripes but ended u with this. What do you guys think. I still am deciding what stickers to put on there.






  19. #19
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    Ordered a SB to BB pipe adapter off of EBAY today along with a few different gaskets. I found that I wasn't getting a good seal and was running my engine lean during the first tank of the break in process. I had the needle a full turn out more than what they came from the factory. The leak in the exhaust still caused it to run lean. I won't be running it any more until I get the parts in. There is still a few things I can do while I wait for the postman though.

    I have an extra Platinum body and a Slip Stream body and was thinking about experimenting with designing some graphics on those too. Anybody have any ideas/suggestions on designs? What did you guys think about my last body with the flames? That was my first.

  20. #20
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    when you get that bb adaptor I would smear a bit of copper rtv on the face when you assemble it ,I had a similar problem with the side mounted pipe and the rtv helped

  21. #21
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    Latest update and the last one for 3 weeks since I am going back to work.

    I did receive the pipe adapter in the mail and it works perfectly. I was still having issues getting it to even idle so I could start to break it in. finally got it there by going really rich. So I get it going and I am having issues keeping it running during the break in. It idles at a stand still and takes off fine but about 25 seconds into the run it decides to take off screaming and when I try to slow it down to turn it stalls. It starts right back up. I can give it throttle, let off and it will just keep screaming, the throttle does go back to the original positions but the car keeps on driving like I still have the throttle burried. I have adjiusted the high speed needle both ways and the the low speed needle both ways to try to calm it down but nothing seems to work. There is no leak in the exhaust, I have checked. Glow plugs are brand new and i have cleared and flooded all the needles to work out debri. I am mainly a flyer but have several nitro monster trucks and do mess with nitro engines but this one is kicking my butt!

    Chickenman, I know you have the same mill. Did you have the same issues with yours? I am thinking about changing out the carb to eliminate that. I have switched out the fuel tank and the lines, checked all the exhaust connections for leaks thinking that may be making it run lean.

    I am having to run it with quite a bit of idle just to keep it going. When I take the igniter off it sounds like it is bogging down but when I lean it out even a 1/8 of a turn it sounds like it is bogging down worse. If I Richen then it runs away at a higher rpm. I am at a loss. If any one has this same engine and can shed some light on this I would be grateful. All the engine I have broken in have been straight forward cut and dried. You start it at factory setting with maybe some minor adjustments and run it until it is broken in then tune for speed and performance.

  22. #22
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    Here she is anyway. Some one swiped my THS pipe out of my garage or I wouldn't have cut the body for the side pipe. I plan on running the rear exhaust with this build but will have to get another one. I still need to do a lot of set up but have been working on getting her running and broken in first.




  23. #23
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    sound like your having a tough time with her,what fuel and glug are you running? I am running 30% nitro 12%oil and a McCoy mc-59 plug ,still the original one too.
    how many tanks have you got through so far?,when I did my break in I used the trx method but I let it idle the first 2 tanks then started and considered it broken in by about tank 12-14.
    if you think maybe your exhaust is an issue ,go try the stock one I use the stock pipe with the trx bb manifold and a bb adaptor for about the first ten tanks I didn't have any issues what so ever with break in.
    Best of luck.

  24. #24
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    I am using Rich's brew which is a fuel used and sold around here in Houston that everybody uses. Local stuff that has been tested and works well. I am using traxxas plugs and really havnt been using any method except the keep her running method. I am on the 4th tank and should be able to start leaning her out but it starts giving me problems when I try. I am pretty sure the exhaust is good. I tested it for leaks and found none. What I can change is the fuel and I can replace the carb. Other than that I am pretty much at a loss. I may have to break down and take her to the lhs but that is a last resort. I have 3 weeks to go over it in my head.

  25. #25
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    try running a hot plug seems to work for when ever I break in a new engine if you have trx plugs go for a #3231 or even a 3230 if you have it.
    if you think its a air leak ,seal up the backplate and the carb base I wouldn't go switching out the carb just yet.you will need to get to around 10 tanks before it will want a tune ,I have barely touched the hsn and leaned the lsn 1/8 turn and it wheelies like a animal and temps around 250F.
    maybe also pull the needles and get a bit of green slime on them ,hope all this helps.

  26. #26
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    Ok! So after getting rid of the Ofna .28 JL Max and switching it out for a LRP ZR .30 X I am back in business. I switched back to the Traxxas big block engine mount and with a little shimming everything works perfectly. I am so relieved to have a running engine that actually stays running!





    This engine is light years ahead of the one I just junked and fits really well. I have only had to do a very small amount of grinding on the crank case. I did go with the bump start and did purchase the Ofna started box for the Revo but after trying to pull start that last last piece of junk over 1000 times I think carrying around a starter box is a small price to pay.

  27. #27
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    The engine is all the way back on the enigne mount so I had to use a washer in between the collet and the front engine bearing along with the brass spacer that came with the Traxxas big block kit that went in front of the clutch bell to get the gears to mesh correctly. This was just a preliminary installation until I get the engine broke in and then I will install the engine brace and find a better spot for the throttle return spring. I am looking for a better and larger air filter that I am sure will help with this monster.





    I also used one of the supplied pieces that holds the throttle rod guide that comes with the traxxas big block kit shown in the picture that is mounted on top of the engine mounting ears, if that makes any sense. I did have to use two 3mm washers to raise throttle rod guide and grind ball down on the throttle arm so it wouldn't bind. I hope that makes sense. I hade to grind a little off of the crank case to allow the longer screws to make it past the crank case.

  28. #28
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    so what happened to the .28 max?? I thought I saw your tuck around on here or another forum... cant hurt to have more power ,I'm currently gathering parts to do a z.28 into a 3.3 I jagged a new era mount for this one.

  29. #29
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    I junked that. I had such problems with it that I tossed it. I did everything and even put it in the LHS which I didn't like lol. They couldn't figure it our either. I am still breaking in the LRP and it is awesome so far. The Traxxas engine mount worked fine with the bump start LRP. After trying to pull start that Ofna .28 a few thousand times I broke down and bought a starter box.
    Last edited by Double G; 07-29-2014 at 06:42 AM. Reason: language abuse

  30. #30
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    I think the .28 will be just about perfect. I got the ZR .30 X because it had more RPM than the others and I knew I was going with the started box. With the RPM steel trans gears and the steel spur I think I will be ok. Plus I am running the wide gear ratio in my trans and I am running a 20t clutch bell and a I think a 38t spur. I am hoping to have the speed and the torque that I want. I want to be able to pull wheelies and I don't think that will be a problem but I don't want to have to work to keep the front wheels on the ground. I am on the look out for a 34t and a 36-37t spur also. I have looked into boca ceramic bearing but they are too pricey for me just for bearing. I am having a little trouble with it boggin down once I get over 50% throttle but I think that will be a tuning issue once I get it broke in.

  31. #31
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    Hot racing has a 34t metal spur. The traxxas slayer comes with a 36t spur if you want to go plastic. I like the build btw. Do you race it currently?
    Spartan Jet Boat
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  32. #32
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    the build im doing is for my cousin so I don't want his to be too much faster than mine , I really want to line my ofna .28 max against his lrp just to see what the difference is ,if I get chopped I have another revo with a picco .26max that will get changed to a true bb.....

  33. #33
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    No I don't race it currently. I think it is pretty heavy for racing and being competitive. I am just a basher at the moment but I want one of the coolest bashers around. My brother is a cop so once I get it dialed in and tuned up I am going to have him clock it to see what speed I can get. I still want to be able to pull wheelies on command and to have power in reserve so Ill decide on the spur/bell combo then. The body I painted in the earlier posts I had to cut the side out to allow for the side pipe to work out. Now that I went with the THS I am going to paint up another one. I have a couple blank ones. There are a lot of little things to be done once I get it tuned up and broke in. The little things really make it unique.

  34. #34
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    Lol its nice to have family like that.
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  35. #35
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    I like it.... alot

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