Hey guys. After maxxing out my 2 month old rustler with the castle 2400kv motor I decided to pick up a new Brushless E-Revo.. I wore the supplied nimhs dead to break in the car a little and dropped in 2x 3s spc lipos and the erbe just fell apart.. Within about 2 minutes both rear and one front axle had snapped. Luckily my hobby shop is only blocks away and I was sold the 5451r's (cvd's) against my request for the summit shafts I read about being the way to go on this forum. 10 minutes later they were all twisted, just barely, but the car sounded beat at speed from the axles wobbling out of true. After getting home the car was torn down for further inspection and found the shaft from the trans to the rear diff was also wobbling and beginning to twist. I am aware of the losi diff mod and want to start less extreme. I was hoping the new erbe was more turn key than my heavily modded street rustler but couldn't even live up to a single lipo drain. Any suggestions on the axles and or center drive shafts? I've spent so much more time than I thought necessary searching all the forums for go to parts...
Thanks for any info!
you need a castle link. de tune it for 6s
thanks Kelly. I've got the castle link and would love to understand what should be de-tuned. on my 90mph rustler I only reduced the punch.
The Erevo does well on 4S, but tends to break more stuff on 6S. If I were you I would see if you could borrow some 2x2S and see if you like running your ERBE on 4S. Then maybe think about buying new lipos. I had a ERBE, and I thought it was plenty fast on 4S.
Thanks for your input sumbasher.. as far as power goes I'd only go higher (8s) as the build progresses. I'm actually aiming to part with the rustler to fund a 1717 setup but looking to gain my confidence back in the car all together after melting down with less than 10 mins of drive time...
Unless you are getting more air time than Tony Hawk that amount of parts should not be breaking. Adjusting your slipper settings so it actually works instead of it being locked out would be a good place to start as a slipper clutch that is working properly can save your axles by not transferring such abrupt throttle inputs to your driveline.
A couple of settings you could change in your Monster is torque limit setting limiting the amount of power available, change the timing to 0 or 5, set the start power to low, punch control to 75 or 80%. if you have questions on how to use the software just click the little blue question mark and it will tell you what each setting does. Takes some time to read the directions but it is worth it in the long run.
There are lots of ways to de-tune the MMM the best of which is learning throttle control.
If it didn't break you can do it again.
Last edited by candy76man; 03-02-2014 at 10:37 PM.
i think there well built i broke a rear end cause of faulty pinion bearing big deal ive dumped tons of upgrades into this truck that it didnt need but i bash it hard its a monster
mamba monster 2 waterproof WoW awesome
tvr chassis brace rear
rc soultions full roll cage
tvr steel axles
rpm arms all the way around
aluminum steering blocks
trenchers x on f 11s gorrilla taped
single 370 o torque servo hitec
you wanna race hehehe:0
Thanks for all the advice guys. I will try loosening the slipper and make the recommended esc adjustments. I guess I was just used to punching it with the rustler which is weighted down up front. I've ordered the long summit shafts to replace the danged ones. Would there be a more durable center drive shaft anybody recommends? Or just another stock unit? Thanks!
i left all mine stock.you need a breaking point somewhere and they are pretty cheap to replace if needed
stay stock there cheap cause the metal ones are going to cost way more and break more learn from others not from ur wallet
I do not mean to be rude, but it's in your driving style. The car is a ****** monster on 6s. What you can do to save the car:
- Middle diff with thick oil (have no number, i'm still experimenting with this after removing my 2speed gearbox)
- Do NOT EVER land with throttle on, preferably as little wheel rotation as possible
- If you have your tyres loose from the rims, turn them inside out and duct tape them before you put them back, this will make them balloon less.
- Make a few aligned holes in the middle of your tires. Preferably a soldering iron or a hole puncher. But it also works if you have something thin and very pointy, the hole doesn't need to be big at all, because there are extreme G forces in the tyres to get water out
Well these are a few things to ease up the damages to the car, just think about where you can reduce rotating force.
I just picked up an ERBE from Tower...I LOVE it so far, I did instantly upgrade to Trenchers on 1/2 inch offset wheels, and picked up some 2S lipos for it, broke the truck in on the stock nimh batteries, but then put in the lipos and ran it...not as fast as my old 2WD Stampede Vlx, but, gets through all the snow here in Minnesota much better (no brainer) I have had a 3.3 Revo and a 2.5 TMaxx (upgraded to 3.3).
I LOVE THIS TRUCK!
Smooth, powerful, and plenty of speed with 2S, I have 3S for it, but, will reserve those for show off time around my buddies.
Nothing broken yet, but, I will be buying Summit axles to have on hand (no local hobby shop) and can say this is the most competent truck I have ever run...it's better, in my opinion, than the nitro trucks by far, and is huge and fairly heavy...flies like an eagle and is very controlled in the air.
I'm willing to bet my over-tightening of the slipper was what caused all the issues. The first run with lipo's (6s) The car accelerated as though it was on ice, Tons of sound but little movement. Tightened the slipper about 1/2 turn and the car then became punchy, responsive and could even do a standing back flip. I admit that after seeing an erbe on youtube doing backflips one after another I simply assumed the car was stronger.
Last edited by illlili; 03-05-2014 at 07:02 PM.
Last edited by candy76man; 03-05-2014 at 11:25 PM.
Hey Guys, I was hoping to create a new build thread after finally receiving all the needed replacement parts and several upgrades, however after running the car for its 3rd time (less than 10 mins on car) there is a loud slapping sound coming from what I believe is either a diff or trans. The sound does increase with motor rpm. Suspending the rear wheels and applying throttle the noise is not heard, suspending the front and applying throttle in reverse the noise is heard. Any input? thanks
This thing is a monster on 6s... Back off your slipper clutch a little bit, should help with those twisted drive shafts when you punch from a stand still. And while on 6s, be careful, trees and boulders and poles and bench feet pop up out of nowhere lol!
E–Revo │ E-Revo BE
ITCHY THROTTLE FINGER!
Last edited by illlili; 03-07-2014 at 07:35 PM.
2x 2wd Slash|Slash 4x4 PE|MM E-Revo|Grave Digger
True. It all depend on how you punch your trigger it you may have set it using your TQi+iPod. I live expo setting on TQi, it ease the torque, I have twisted 2 stock shafts before understand the setting, I.e. Slipper clutch, TQi with iPod, Punch control, expo, etc.
Anyway, this what actually happened to me. I'm mostly running 4s on normal bashing (with all set as above). I do enjoy the speed and the power and little love of protection to the ERBE itself (easy throttle, TQi etc). And when in racing at my local track, I never ever see that I need 6s, it's not that I don't like it. I don't see I need it, the moment your ERBE launch, use t the end of the track already : ) and without the proper expo and ease on your throttle, your ERBE will wheelie a lot and I don't see it's practical for racing, yes for bashing and fun. But not for racing.
Frankly, speed is temptation, especially with not a real car that you sit in it. You are not afraid to go taster, it's tempted! We'll I do run on 6s once in a while but always be gentle on throttle. Or you'll break almost everything. So I don't see the point of braking everything and wait for part replacement and the ERBE lay down waiting for help : )
Unless you're saying you're a speed demon, than you don't have other choice to upgrade your ERBE to almost bullet-proof but yes, there are still possibility of parts to be broken.
Well, enjoy the bash, the race at 4s. If you don't mind to drive a little slower. P.s. Top speed of 4s is enough to make me panic sometime