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  1. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hirschowl View Post
    Nice set up but you better reinstall your front bumper. It captures the front hinge pins. If not they will come loose and break on a front impact when the t-bone bumper flexes. I found out the hard way about a year ago. It looks like the one on the right side of this picture is already backing out...
    Thanks and yes I installed the mount already. Just didn't show on the pics I uploaded. Here's how it's on now.



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  2. #362
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    Nice, just cut the bumper off. It looks better without the stock bumper, but I left mine on for the extra protection. Plus now I have the lights on it too. I run with a lot of sticks and broken branches and nothing worse than a big branch jamming through the front of the body. I happened to me a couple of times. Had to pry out branch that went through the shock tower.
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  3. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hirschowl View Post
    Nice, just cut the bumper off. It looks better without the stock bumper, but I left mine on for the extra protection. Plus now I have the lights on it too. I run with a lot of sticks and broken branches and nothing worse than a big branch jamming through the front of the body. I happened to me a couple of times. Had to pry out branch that went through the shock tower.
    What you mean cut it off? I was going to run without it, just leaving the bottom brace on. buy if you have a better solution let me know.

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  4. #364
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    Nice pede man looks like you'll need tires soon !

  5. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1SlowTRX View Post
    Received my 4x4 pede this past weekend and finally had a chance to install the new power plant and goodies!
    -Castle 1410 3800kv, Mamba Monster 2, 13t Pinion
    -Traxxas Aluminum bearing adapter
    -Traxxas front steel drive hub
    -MIP X-Duty Metal drive shafts all around
    -Talons on Proline Chrome Desperado wheels
    -Lowered body
    -TBone Racing Bumpers
    -stiffer springs(not sure which, bought truck with shocks installed)

    Wait list:
    Steering bell crank
    Front body mount
    Castle creations USB link









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    Dude that's one sick truck and loaded with some trick mods.........peace
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  6. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Dude that's one sick truck and loaded with some trick mods.........peace
    Thanks bro! I'm Anxious to bash it! Steering and body mount should be here today.

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  7. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1SlowTRX View Post
    What you mean cut it off? I was going to run without it, just leaving the bottom brace on. buy if you have a better solution let me know.

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    My bad. It looks like you cut off the the front bumper from the bottom brace, but upon closer inspection of mine, it looks as if the bottom brace is seperate. The front bumper doesn't attach to the piece that caputures the hinge pins. My bad...had a few high gravity beers last night...

    I also see your putting in a new bellcrank system. If its the STRC, I would recommmend to sand the ramps down a bit to remove the anodizing, and don't overtighten. After I upgraded mine, I stripped the plastic gears in the 2075 servo. I had it to tight. I loosened the bellcrank, and it still happen again. Then got advice in here somewhere to sand the ramps down to help it slip a bit easier. When doing routine maintenance, I will clean up the ramps and lubricate the bell crank. I also did update servo to Hitec 645mg. No problems since...
    Last edited by Hirschowl; 04-22-2014 at 04:33 PM.
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  8. #368
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    Cracked my rear body posts trying to front flip, I did it good one time then couldn't do it again

  9. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hirschowl View Post
    My bad. It looks like you cut off the the front bumper from the bottom brace, but upon closer inspection of mine, it looks as if the bottom brace is seperate. The front bumper doesn't attach to the piece that caputures the hinge pins. My bad...had a few high gravity beers last night...

    I also see your putting in a new bellcrank system. If its the STRC, I would recommmend to sand the ramps down a bit to remove the anodizing, and don't overtighten. After I upgraded mine, I stripped the plastic gears in the 2075 servo. I had it to tight. I loosened the bellcrank, and it still happen again. Then got advice in here somewhere to sand the ramps down to help it slip a bit easier. When doing routine maintenance, I will clean up the ramps and lubricate the bell crank. I also did update servo to Hitec 645mg. No problems since...
    yeah i was like, what is this guy talking about haha. I installing stock bellcranks, actually just installed the piece that goes on the servo, the rest was already there.

    Finally received my parts and took it out for a test drive with the new system and i'm pretty impressed. Did about 5-6 500ft speed runs and about 10 mins of hard bashing, My main concern was motor temp, motor got up to 154F, esc 114F at 82-85F Ambient temp, on 2s and 13t pinion. 34 MPH was the max without the body. Next items will be aluminum motor mount and motor heatsink fins. Hope that helps lower the temp a bit.

    Then this happened just before the lvd kicked in Lol
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  10. #370
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    154f is a nice low temp but the motor will be better with the two mods you have mentioned.....peace
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  11. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    154f is a nice low temp but the motor will be better with the two mods you have mentioned.....peace
    yup! sure hope so! thanks man
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  12. #372
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    Cut and installed slash 4x4 center shaft. Stock was bent and would cause horrible shake. Cut slash shaft about 1/8" less to get rid of some slack it had with the stock one



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  13. #373
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    And replaced my shock oil with 50wt

  14. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede4x4owner View Post


    And replaced my shock oil with 50wt
    I also changed to 50wt and titanium nitride shafts. Much better for big jumps.

    The stock shafts were all bent

  15. #375
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    Haven't got the shafts. I'll wait til they bend

  16. #376
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    Yeah dude 50wt oil is sweet for big air and the upgraded shock shafts are super tough and smooth as butter.And 1slowTRX it all helps with the temps........peace
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  17. #377
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    TiNi shafts and alum caps are a must!

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  18. #378
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    Did a retune one the truggapede. Felt
    Really good at the home track going out to the real track tomorrow with all the trucks to have a blast

  19. #379
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    Today I went for a run in the beautiful sunshine with my stampede, I just love that little truck!

  20. #380
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    Replaced the front CVD's with MIP shafts, since I broke a stocker driving it directly into a parked car, lol.... unfortunately, the grub screws MIP put in the kit for the hexes are the wrong size.

    I think they're supposed to be M3, but they're M4. Home depot doesn't have any smaller than M4 though... so I guess I'll have to wait until Monday, and I'll grab a couple from the bin at work.

    I'll also email MIP, just to let them know. No use in asking for the correct ones though, since I'll already have them before MIP could even ship them.

  21. #381
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    Did some bashing today in the back yard, got tired of the wheel bar failing off after a few jumps

  22. #382
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    well today, and last night, I cleaned my raptor body up after a good bash, got it all clean and waxed, waxed the chassis cover too. finished the fiberglass tape and shoe goo on the body to. Then to relax, I sat down and ordered a set of Losi Ten-T shocks for the pede, fronts and rears. also a new chassis to be dyed and modified. Ordered a teckno big bone center shaft and proline body thumb screws.

  23. #383
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    . My girls pede getting it done

    great end of the day
    Last edited by cooleocool; 04-27-2014 at 08:42 AM. Reason: merge

  24. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede4x4owner View Post
    Cracked my rear body posts trying to front flip, I did it good one time then couldn't do it again
    front flips put much impact on the parts even if landed. so i decided to avoid them.

  25. #385
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    Painted a new body . Can't wait to see it in the sun. Will take more pics then.


  26. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPT View Post
    Painted a new body . Can't wait to see it in the sun. Will take more pics then.

    awesome job dude.

  27. #387
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    Dyed shock bodies and installed TiNi shafts along with 1 hole pistons while I was at it. Also dyed my sons 2wd pede chassis and shocks aswell.

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  28. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede4x4owner View Post
    Did some bashing today in the back yard, got tired of the wheel bar failing off after a few jumps
    You must Zip tie it. It is a good thing to keep it because it protects the body very well.


  29. #389
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    I might put it back on will see I still have it didn't throw it away

  30. #390
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    Ordered a castle field card for my setup. I need to adjust some settings. Way too much brake and barely any reverse. Lol.

    For guys with castle setups - LVD??? What does your truck do when it goes into LVD? Velineon cuts power and you can tell instantly. It seems like the LVD for castle gives you full power for a second and then cuts down, but as soon as I let off the throttle again I have full power again and then Cuts down again. Is that how it's supposed to work?

  31. #391
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    The castle I had it will just stop out of no where

  32. #392
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    The funny thing is: I never run my Lipos until LVD kicks in. If the punch and speed starts to drop noticable I stop driving. Lipo has about 3.7V per Cell which also will extend the lipos life.

  33. #393
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    Yeah but it also says don't trickle charge but it's bad to run them all the way out ??

  34. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede4x4owner View Post
    Yeah but it also says don't trickle charge but it's bad to run them all the way out ??
    no i think this is wrong. only low voltage or overcharge is bad for lipo.

  35. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by IPT View Post
    Painted a new body . Can't wait to see it in the sun. Will take more pics then.

    Dude you are a awesome painter man I wish I could do that type of work but mine are slowly getting better one shell at a time........peace
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  36. #396
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    had a blast today

  37. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbrsilv15 View Post
    Ordered a castle field card for my setup. I need to adjust some settings. Way too much brake and barely any reverse. Lol.

    For guys with castle setups - LVD??? What does your truck do when it goes into LVD? Velineon cuts power and you can tell instantly. It seems like the LVD for castle gives you full power for a second and then cuts down, but as soon as I let off the throttle again I have full power again and then Cuts down again. Is that how it's supposed to work?
    Castle ESC's simply shut off power when voltage per cell drops below the set amount(stock i believe is 3.2v per) then if the voltage rises back above that power kicks back in. So when it cuts off the battery(now with no power being pulled) begins to rise in voltage and power comes back on until power is pulled and brings voltage back down. Eventually the voltage will stay down and shut off. Usually higher C rated batteries will do this less.

  38. #398
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    Today I let my father, who is already 70 years old drive my Stampede 4x4 for the first time. Usually I only let him drive my SCX10 Rubicon which he can handle pretty well in the mean time.

    So after a couple of minutes I told him he could try the jump but not too fast, but he did the opposite and just pulled the trigger to the maximum. The Stampede took of like a rocket and made a really huge huge jump landing directrly on the roof.

    But nothing broke, not even the body since it is already stengthened with shoe goo and other stuff at various positions.

    Next time I only let him drive on 2s because he just loves to pull the trigger with no mercy

    But I thinks even 2s would be too much for him. Too bad that i cant limit throttle on esc or radio.

    Also he knows that I like to repair stuff so he always thinks its funny when he breaks parts.

  39. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by quinsdad View Post
    Replaced the front CVD's with MIP shafts, since I broke a stocker driving it directly into a parked car, lol.... unfortunately, the grub screws MIP put in the kit for the hexes are the wrong size.
    Turns out, I think they put the wrong hexes in the kit. According to their site, the grub/set screws are supposed to be 6-32.... which they are. The threads of the hex are smaller and finer pitched though, so they must be M5x.5.

    No worries, I already grabbed a few of each from work (where I am right now) and will put them in when I get home today.

    I've been running in the meantime..... just check the nuts on the spindle every few minutes. If I lose one of those and my wheel comes off, I'll probably never find the hex, lol

  40. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    Today I let my father, who is already 70 years old drive my Stampede 4x4 for the first time. Usually I only let him drive my SCX10 Rubicon which he can handle pretty well in the mean time.

    So after a couple of minutes I told him he could try the jump but not too fast, but he did the opposite and just pulled the trigger to the maximum. The Stampede took of like a rocket and made a really huge huge jump landing directrly on the roof.

    But nothing broke, not even the body since it is already stengthened with shoe goo and other stuff at various positions.

    Next time I only let him drive on 2s because he just loves to pull the trigger with no mercy

    But I thinks even 2s would be too much for him. Too bad that i cant limit throttle on esc or radio.

    Also he knows that I like to repair stuff so he always thinks its funny when he breaks parts.
    On the stock esc's you can limit throttle down to 50% and even aftermarket ones usually can be limited.

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