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  1. #1
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    Adding more orange to my Rustler?

    I'm looking for ways to add a little more orange to my rustler chassis. I've seen the aluminum Evolution kits, but I don't want that much bling. It's not a big deal, but I would really like some orange aluminum shocks, maybe a top plate, tranny case, screw kit...

    Or maybe I should go cheap and use orange shock covers and paint...

  2. #2
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    I was looking for orange too. I race offshore powerboats and wanted to make my Rusty match the boat. I thought it would be cool to run around the pits! Here's the boat. http://i922.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1328576338
    To the men and women of the US military, thank you

  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    There arent any orange shock covers, shocks, top plate, or screw kit..

    Also u DONT want the evolution kit. It looks good in the pic, but in person doesnt look so good. The arms and such are really funny looking. HOWever.... Its all bout the touches, and ur paint job. Venom sells some orange aluminum for Traxxas 2wd. This is the direction I would go in. Actually if it was out before my pede came to be, I would have done it with orange cuz its my fav colors for RCs.

    Here is the only company that sells orange alum parts for our rigs. Its marked as the slash because they share many parts, but this will work.



    Heres what I would get, DONT GET THE ARMS, but u can get.....
    Castor blocks,



    Front Shock towers,



    Rear shock towers,



    Bellcrank Steering


    Alum Tranny,



    gear cover



    Bulkhead



    These are all what I what add, and the PERFECT amount. Except I probably would not add the alum gear cover. Maybe yes, maybe no. Probably black plastic.

    What u would want to do, is have a perfect balance of black, and the alum orange. U would want to dye ur chassis, and top plate black. (easy and cheap to do) than add these accents of orange. There was no front carriers in orange for some reason, so Id get silver alum or RPM. Also, u can find orange alum washers I believe, if not silver and u would have one of the nicest Rustys out there by far.

    This is what Mine looks like, Replace the RED and SILVEr with the ORANGE and ul get an idea of what can be.... Shouldnt be giving away my ideas lol. jk..
    Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 02-06-2012 at 07:52 PM.

  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Except for the alum links. Id keep the steel there if u have a VXL, or put Steel or Titanium ones there. Thats what I would do. And as for the front and rear carries and Hexs, id put silver or gun metal. Same with the shocks if u wanted them in alum. Definatly would at least want alum shock caps.





    Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 02-06-2012 at 07:54 PM.

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Oo... Than u can paint a Rustler body, Either a clear one, or Pro-Ghraphix clear one with Orange, and it will look terrific.

    Also DONT get the Integy kit, Dont get ANY Integy alum part that is not thier rear gearbox.... Its a big No No, and they are JUNK. only reason their rear gear box isnt cuz its a giant piece of aluminum. But anything small or skinny is brittle, weak, ugly in person, and very very very poorley producted. At first we all see it and think its nice, but after about ten minutes spend on the forums, or LHS u learn that its amazing they are in business. Only from new comers that dont know better. They are pure junk.

  6. #6
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    I agree with all you on the Integy kit, I've never been a fan of their stuff. My used Slash came with Integy piggyback shocks and they leak like crazy. In fact, aside from shocks I usually avoid aluminum upgrades.

    AbSoLooT1, thanks for posting the Venom parts, I didn't realize Venom made machined parts. Any idea where they stand quality-wise?


    I already painted a PL Desert Rat body, it turned out just like I wanted. I wanted a high-visibility body that I could see through Arizona dust clouds, and I don't think I could've topped silver and fluorescent orange. I love these colors.


    On the other hand, my chassis is entirely black and white. It looks nice and clean, but over time I would like it to have more of an Gray/Orange theme to match the body.


    It's funny you mentioned dyeing the chassis black; my chassis is just a stock pre-XL-5 model, so it's already black, but sometimes I wish I had the gray plastic parts to match my Gray/Orange theme. I mostly just care about stuff you can see with the lid on, shocks, turnbuckles, and MAYBE tranny. I found a seller on ebay making orange shock covers, $5 for a set of 4 shipped.. I also found some orange aluminum Blitz shocks, I wonder if they would fit?
    Last edited by nixzero; 02-07-2012 at 01:31 AM.

  7. #7
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    These guys have some orange shock covers.
    http://www.badhorsie.com/products/shock-covers.html
    FLM E-MAXX 3908 6s
    Rustler VXL x 2 MMP SCT 3800

  8. #8
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    with the lid on I can suggest painting your springs orange. Also the screw heads you could spray orange also. And there is probably some orange aluminum wheel lock nuts out there some where.. Oh and orange body clips, chrome is not looking good. And an orange antenna. its the little things that make it stand out.

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixzero View Post
    I agree with all you on the Integy kit, I've never been a fan of their stuff. My used Slash came with Integy piggyback shocks and they leak like crazy. In fact, aside from shocks I usually avoid aluminum upgrades.

    AbSoLooT1, thanks for posting the Venom parts, I didn't realize Venom made machined parts. Any idea where they stand quality-wise?


    I already painted a PL Desert Rat body, it turned out just like I wanted. I wanted a high-visibility body that I could see through Arizona dust clouds, and I don't think I could've topped silver and fluorescent orange. I love these colors.


    On the other hand, my chassis is entirely black and white. It looks nice and clean, but over time I would like it to have more of an Gray/Orange theme to match the body.


    It's funny you mentioned dyeing the chassis black; my chassis is just a stock pre-XL-5 model, so it's already black, but sometimes I wish I had the gray plastic parts to match my Gray/Orange theme. I mostly just care about stuff you can see with the lid on, shocks, turnbuckles, and MAYBE tranny. I found a seller on ebay making orange shock covers, $5 for a set of 4 shipped.. I also found some orange aluminum Blitz shocks, I wonder if they would fit?
    I hear ya brotha. I also have an old Stampede, and it too came with a black chassis. It just wasnt the same cuz they made some changes. So that one went on the stock one, and I grabbed anouther one and it is been dyed black. It would be more updated and such. But once u have some orange bling, it would look off the hook. Check out the Venom orange parts I posted a pic of up. Especially the orange shock towers, tranny, bulkhead and castors would really make it pop big time. Like my Rusty does. As for the shocks, id say those are almost the least, u can do other stuff, and have just orange springs on a black or big bore shock and id look great.

    And honestly on the body it would look great with orange and grey, as a paint job, but not as the chassis. Grey and orange wouldnt look very good underneath. its all about having it masked underneath and having the touches to make it stand out.
    Last edited by AbSoLooT1; 02-07-2012 at 04:33 PM.

  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Heres my Stampede. U can see its on a black chassis, with black shock towers, but the touches make it look good. I disagree on antenna tube, and shock covers, but it could look good too. This is how I did my Stampede. Think of the Red as orange.




  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    But notice here, it definatly is all about cleaning it up.... I put on a black link instead of the busted metal one, a black servo saver instead of the clearish one, and its all cleaned up. I could very well have the Venom bellcrank in there and venom tower and bulkhead and it would look sick...


  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    My Stampede body is more yellowish-orange. But with some gold(orange looking) lock nuts, It definatly makes it go.


  13. #13
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    That's one sweet-looking 'Pede! I just got a used Revo 3.3 and an E-Maxx, so most of my RC budget is being put into getting those in good shape, but I'll slowly be doing little things to the Rusty to make it more "my own". Thanks again for the tips

  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. AbSoLooT1's Avatar
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    Thanks man. I hear ya, I do one at a time too Althought the Rusty is less expensive to hop-up than Revo and Emaxx. Great RC Garage u got there! 3 great trucks.

    btw, took me 6 months to complete my Pede. (scratch build part by upgraded part)

  15. #15
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    Yeah, my "garage" is turning into dealership, lol! I also have a 2wd Slash VXL, HPI Savage 25, and a Losi XXX-S drift car, so I have to spread the upgrades out, ya know?

    I got them all on Craigslist, either through trades or just plain good deals. I got started last summer with a Savage 4.1 and 2 spare engines for $120. I cleaned up the Savage and resold it for $250, then traded the engines for Rustler, RC10T2, and XXX-S rollers. I fixed them up, mostly with parts from Craigslist/eBay. Traded the RC10 for a sweet airsoft gun, used the $250 to score a like-new Savage 25 and 2 VXL systems.. Traded the SCX10 for a Slash.. Got the Revo and EMaxx for about $300 worth of heli stuff I didn't use anymore... That's just in the last year and a half, and even with all these toys I haven't spent more than $1000 even including parts/hopups, and I got to play with lots of helis and truck setups along the way.

    I think I must like fixing up my rides more than driving them, at least that's where all my time goes, lol! I have so many, I know it would be smart to trade some in so I can go lipo and focus on upgrading just a few, but it's so hard to part with them and so easy to get more!!
    Rusty, Pede, Bandit, E-MAXX 3906, MERV

  16. #16
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    So, the Venom orange Slash parts are discontinued and pretty hard to find (I can only find front c-hubs and front shocks). But, I finally got around to dying some of the stock plastic, so I thought I would post and share. I used the hole packet of dye, and it took a LOT longer for the bellcrank and springs (almost an hour) than the wheels (couple of minutes). It's not perfect, the wheels didn't take the dye where the old superglue was, and the bellcrank dyed uneven, but I'm happy, and it looks awesome when it's in motion!

    BEFORE:


    AFTER:


    Here's a good view of the steering bellcrank installed:


    And here it is with the lid. IMHO, the orange wheels really make this ride pop:
    Rusty, Pede, Bandit, E-MAXX 3906, MERV

  17. #17
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    What kind of tires are you running on those wheels?

  18. #18
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    Proline Mashers 2.2 tires

  19. #19
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    Yup yup, the ole Masher 2000s! They're usually used on Stampedes, like on Absoloot's above, but they're a lot of fun on Rustlers too! It gives the truck an LCG monster truck feel.

    The ones in my earlier posts are the Traxxas Stampede Monster Jam tires.
    Rusty, Pede, Bandit, E-MAXX 3906, MERV

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixzero View Post
    So, the Venom orange Slash parts are discontinued and pretty hard to find (I can only find front c-hubs and front shocks). But, I finally got around to dying some of the stock plastic, so I thought I would post and share. I used the hole packet of dye, and it took a LOT longer for the bellcrank and springs (almost an hour) than the wheels (couple of minutes). It's not perfect, the wheels didn't take the dye where the old superglue was, and the bellcrank dyed uneven, but I'm happy, and it looks awesome when it's in motion!

    BEFORE:


    AFTER:


    Here's a good view of the steering bellcrank installed:


    And here it is with the lid. IMHO, the orange wheels really make this ride pop:
    The orange looks good, the venom parts are still available. I found a site that has them all in stock.

    http://www.atomik-rc.com/Store_3/1-10-Slash_2/

  21. #21
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    I just finished a major overhaul of this truck, and just happened to stumble on this old thread. I know it's bad etiquette to dig up old threads, but I figured now would be a good time for an update if anyone else can use the info. Here's my Rustler today:

    To be clear, 99% of this truck has been replaced. In fact, I had enough stock parts left to build a Bandit. Some cool tips to add more color to these vehicles:

    1) The front body posts (TRA1914) are the older white ones for the SRT and Blue Eagle trucks, and can be dyed. They are VERY hard to find (I spent $10 at a vintage store on eBay, and I'm still looking for the shock tower bar), but I love how the posts poking thru the body hint at the color underneath.

    2) RPM makes white rod ends for your turnbuckles. I dyed some orange and paired them with Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles, they look awesome. Here they are next to the body posts:


    3) RPM no longer makes many white, dyeable parts. However, eBay seller "projectstaketime" sometimes gets them, and sells them white or pre-dyed. True to their name, though, you may have to wait for the parts to be in stock. I got the arms, towers, and gearbox pre-dyed. I think they also have a website, I think it's "Python Motorsports"?

    4) The battery tray is lined with a sheet of foam I got at a craft store made by Creatology. They have lots of colors, and you can buy it plain or with an adhesive backing. I stole this idea from Absoloot, only he used felt. FWIW, I tried the felt, and found the foam easier to work with and to clean.

    5) The washers I used were from a company called T-Works. Their website is difficult to navigate, but other manufacturers sell them too. Just google "buttonhead washers".

    6) One experiment I tried was using ball ends and studs with turnbuckles for a Blitz. They're not the exact size, but I made them work with adjustments. Here's a pic, note that I used RPM ball ends, and the turnbuckles were made by STRC:


    7) Wire mesh braided sheathing. You can sometimes find this by searching for "wire mesh" or "braided sleeving" at some online hobby stores. It's also available on eBay, a popular company is Techflex. I use 1/8" sheathing and secure the ends with 1/4" heat shrink. At only a couple dollars for several yards, I'm putting it on all my vehicles. Protects wires, and looks great.

    8) Vinyl sticker sheets. While I haven't done it yet, I've seen a few projects that use this for cool effect (look up "Krypto Rustler" on YouTube). I'd like to color the sides of the chassis and the front of the shock tower bar eventually, just gotta find out what sticker/decal to use.
    Rusty, Pede, Bandit, E-MAXX 3906, MERV

  22. #22
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    Oh, almost forgot. RIT's "Sunshine Orange" can end up having a pumpkin color, especially on wheels. It's not as noticeable on most plastic parts, but I would recommend adding some yellow dye to the mix if you're looking for a bright orange, and keeping the concentration kinda low so you can let them soak and really penetrate the plastic (keeps the original color from showing when scratched).
    Rusty, Pede, Bandit, E-MAXX 3906, MERV

  23. #23
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    Nixzero.....how did you dye? Just soaking?
    I've dyed a mustang hot wheel once and heating up in water and dye for 10 minutes was the trick.....the metal and plastic looked awesome.
    (It was to many years ago...but I think it was a light boil)

  24. #24
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    I just heated some water on a stove, poured in the dye, and soaked the parts until I got the color I want. To ensure consistency, you can use a timer, or what I do is just soak like parts at the same time (soak all 4 wheels at once, then soak your RPM parts, then stock parts). Different plastics take different amounts of time, so I check them constantly. Wheels might only take a few minutes, but a stock servo saver might take 45 min. I just hang the parts in the water using little rigs made of wire, it's important that the plastic doesn't touch the bottom of your pan as it could warp it.

    RPM has a guide on their website, and supposedly you can dye chromed parts, too!
    Rusty, Pede, Bandit, E-MAXX 3906, MERV

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by nixzero View Post
    I just heated some water on a stove, poured in the dye, and soaked the parts until I got the color I want. To ensure consistency, you can use a timer, or what I do is just soak like parts at the same time (soak all 4 wheels at once, then soak your RPM parts, then stock parts). Different plastics take different amounts of time, so I check them constantly. Wheels might only take a few minutes, but a stock servo saver might take 45 min. I just hang the parts in the water using little rigs made of wire, it's important that the plastic doesn't touch the bottom of your pan as it could warp it.

    RPM has a guide on their website, and supposedly you can dye chromed parts, too!
    Great info!
    Thanks

    Wife is going to be like *** when she comes home one dah next week! Lola

  26. #26
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    Haha, well be careful about stains. It doesn't stick to stainless steel, but I imagine it could ruin flooring or a countertop. I have an old pot that I use just for dyeing. Come to think of it, if you have a hot plate, you could easily do this in a garage or outside.
    Rusty, Pede, Bandit, E-MAXX 3906, MERV

  27. #27
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    Yes..thanks↑↑↑↑

    I did some searching and read up a bit more. Now I remember. ...I've looked into it before but realized black oarts can't be dyed.

    But I think I have some wheels that might be done. And like my "POP" always said...."you can get dirty in a clean environment"
    I will stick with doing this outside....I'm almost 40 yrs old and still look like I've rolled in dirt/grease after an hour in shop....lol
    So....I'm sure I'd look like a Smurf when done....lol

    Ok....back on track with thread.....those look awesome guys.

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