Took everything apart and the clicking is coming from between the spider and output gears. Upon visual inspection at first, nothing looked worn. Plenty of lubrication. Re-assembled and it went away for a run or two. Now it's back and getting worse and the rear is starting the same thing. What's the deal with the diffs in these things? I haven't been pushing the car real hard, just driving around in the living room with stock battery/motor. Should I spend the money for the aluminum spools front and rear? Can you put the spool in the rear? Should I just get stock diff replacements and shim something? So many parts for this are out of stock. Don't see how this could hold up long with any kind of power upgrades. I had pre-ordered the Teton because I really liked my Rally, but now I am second guessing this 1/18 platform. Maybe I should cancel that pre-order and part this thing out in an online auction...
Stock diffs are a problem if not shimmed. The spools can beat up on the shaft pinion gears. If you can use the 2 geared diffs to rebuild one of them, put it in the front and shim it. Sometimes it helps to shim the driveshaft pinion as well. The spool in the rear should be fine if you're running on smooth surfaces (indoors, or polished concrete).
Thanks for the reply! I only plan on running this indoors anyway so I'll probably just get the spools front and rear and hope that works. That is still about $30 for two of those and the car only cost $130. Hmm.. maybe I can JB weld the diffs together to make a solid axle..hahaha
Orange from Tower. Had to get a color I didn't have on any of my other vehicles. Also, I see on the Rally gallery page they now show it in orange too, instead of yellow..
Last edited by drumbum; 02-05-2014 at 02:47 AM.
This is happening to me as we'll. I've converted my rally to a brushless system and after putting a lipo battery on it, the front diff has been clicking everytime it starts to build up speed, when you pick the car up and just let the motor go, everything's fine.