So I have a couple of things going on. First off I have just purchased a Telluride for my 4 y/o daughter, she loves to drive anything (tractors, elec power wheels and I let her shift the gears in my truck). My wife has an old E Maxx (3903/5 think), I have an old Smartec Snap On nitro and a HPI Savage nitro. The Savage I am selling and the Smartec I am going to convert to electric, hopefully by way of used parts after upgrading the wife's and daughter's and some Ebay stuff (cheaply is what I'm saying).
1. I want to slow my daughter's down to maybe 10 ish mph. I read another post that stated the 90T spur (traxxas #4690) should work with the stock 12t pinion giving it an overall ratio of 21.64 vs the factory of 19.68.
Any ideas if that would work?
2. The other idea I had was to go with a 55T motor (HPI possible).
Opinions on the motor or to do both???
If I replace the motor, then I have on to use in my Smartec conversion.
3. The other thing I was wondering is if I could use the better TQi controller #6509 which is supposed to be compatible with the #6519 receiver. That way I would also have a remote better remote for the Smartec, I would probably just buy a used pair (controller/receiver) from ebay). The reason for the controller is it has a speed control adjustment on it, I assume to limit the total throttle input??
Lots of questions I know. Upgrades to my wife's will come later, probably with Lipos and some sort of external low voltage sensor for each battery or maybe with a dual batt ESC.
Last edited by danno676; 12-29-2013 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Wife's model number was wrong.
2-you could do that. The traxxas Titan 21t from the emaxx/erevo would work too. I don't think you need to do this though.
3-the tqi would be a good upgrade. It is compatible with the receiver. It does have settings for steering and throttle endpoints, which really help a young child control the truck properly. Young children tend to have an all-or-nothing approach to throttle and steering, so it's nice to lower those endpoints and keep the vehicle controlled. You wouldn't need training mode if you did this.
JWS1982, thanks a bunch! So I'll start with the controller and training mode and go from there. I was hoping not to have to replace parts if not needed, even if replacing them would give me "inventory" for my Smartec conversion.
With the motor, I didn't think the 21T would slow it down enough. I could start with that (if the above is not enough) and could always go to a "higher"T if need be.
The are all or nothing I agree, funny little critters.
the 55t from HPI is a great motor and it WILL slow it down. that motor will run cooler too so you can gear it up when your ready to go faster.
And we thought toy grade RC's where cool...
Thanks CDB55. I am going to start with the controller, since I am going to need one anyway, then go to the motor if it is still too fast....which it probably will be when she realized she can start driving over the dogs.
Welcome. If you go that route, your runtimes will also significantly increase. It'll probably run for well over an hour.
Yes that's right, an added bonus!!
The stock gearing is as low as you can go without modification. The 83t spur is the largest and 12t is the smallest pinion ( a smaller pinion wont mesh as the motor can hits the floorpan before it meshes. I would agree that the training mode is the way to go to slow the truck down, or maybe run an emaxx motor, but that aint free.
Nothing is free but like I said, anything I buy for one can be used as spare parts for my other build...so that's like 2 birds with one stone?? Maybe, guess we'll see how destructive she will be while in training mode. It's supposed to come in Friday, can't wait to see her face.
So far what I have done for my daughter's is to run the ESC in the 50/50 mode and then limit the throw of the throttle with a washer and some electrical tape, it does NOT limit anything in reverse but it does do the job just fine.
I did go ahead and get one for myself too, this is a fun little truck. I locked up the rear differential and spent a lot of time moving shocks around and playing with spring pre loads, went with an old set of longer springs for the rear, off of a Smartech wanna be TMaxx . I noticed that with the 7 cell battery that it would sit lower on the battery side, so I move the ESC to the back of the battery tray opening up the entire center of the tube, notched out one side and mounted the battery left to right within the tray. A little sticks out, but for me that is ok. I will upload some pics later, right now I have it drying out as I just spent the last 30 minutes bashing in the snow. With the suspension moved around the way it is, rear diff locked and a more even weight bias, this thing is a blast! I may try moving the battery all the way up front to give it a little weight on the nose but that is a later mod.
I'm running the E-Maxx 21t in my son's Telluride with stock gearing and I think it works great. Loads of low end power, barely ever gets warm (even when bashing hard) and battery life that seems to last forever.
I am running hers in 'training mode' with the throttle throw limited on the transmitter with a washer and some electrical tape. it works well but still hauls butt in reverse. I've been thinking about putting a higher turn motor in it in the future.