Ive been collecting parts for this G2 build for a while now. So I figured I would share it with all you guys. Been wanting to build a two wheel drive maxx for a while so I figured the lcg gmaxx chassis would be a good start. This ones not going to have a lot of the higher end expensive parts that I used on my last project maxx but will be built tough with a good strong 1/8th scale drivetrain. and a whole bunch of different parts all custom fit together.
I started with the tranny. I didn't like how people mod the revo shaft to fit these gmaxx trannys for the trx clutch so I used the 3908 brushless input shaft to fit the single speed monstermaxx tranny case.
Also used the brushless tranny idler gear.
The bottom shaft had a lot of front to back play so I ground another .100 of the drive dog and run dual output bearings.
A few shims here and there to line it all up and keep things from rubbing on each other and its all good.
And you don't have to grind all the fins off the back of the clutch to fit.
and also as you can see I drilled the case cover and let the shaft stick out the other side and drilled a hole in it so you can hold it and adjust the clutch just like the stock tranny.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 12-21-2013 at 01:32 PM.
Next up the diffs. Im going to do the losi diff mod on this build. I already had some of the diff parts so I picked up the rest to finish them. Although this is going to be a two wheel drive to start off im going to build and mod all the parts for the front drive train too. I used some hr lst diff cups with the ss backplate, losi alum diff case and ue cups. Had to use two gaskets on one side off the diff to fit.
They fit together like a glove. only two shims. one .006 on the pinion and one 0.1mm on the diff.
Also by grinding the little lip off the back of the drive cup and a little clearance to keep it from rubbing on the outer bearing race I was able to get the set screw to lock right down into the hole in the pinion gear for a perfect fit with no play or preload on the pinion bearings.
And a little dremel around the case opening where it captures the outer pinion bearing to clear the drive cup.
More parts for this build. A little bit of everything. some I had, some used, some new.
UE monoblock chassis extension
flm low profile towers
losi lst2 axles
strc knuckles machined to fit 8x15x5mm outer and (2x) 15x21x4mm inner bearings.
GH servo saver actually got this one to work pretty good for now anyway.
Gh bulkhead braces
E Racing titanium pillow balls
E Racing (hard steel) tie rods w/rod ends
Hpi vorza black 17mm hubs
Custom set of hardened through ejector pins with collars and braces.
rc damper alum bumpers
I see how some people have managed to use the traxxas collar to hold the front of the diff case. I had my machinist buddy bore one of these gh alum ones out to 3/4" to fit the case but by the time I got done hacking up the rest of it to make it fit this is what was left. LOL This is just not going to get it done for me.
So I came up with a much better, much stronger way to do it. Stay tuned. I need to make some spacers for the sides to fit the losi case in the flm bulks and have my machinist buddy make me a couple little alum parts.
Last edited by cooleocool; 12-23-2013 at 03:28 PM. Reason: merge
Looking good and great to have another build to follow.I was going to order some of those shock towers the other day but they had gone out of stock.You must have got the last two.Hopefully they will make some more soon because as far as I can see rcmonster is the only place you can get them.
Thanks Martin, Glad I didn't wait to order the towers. I hope they make more so you can get a set. There still in business so im pretty shure they will make more.
Can't wait to see it finished !
Wow that's a lot of aluminum! Looking forward to seeing this done!!!
Thanks guys, got a few more things done. what better thing to do on a crappy rainy day then work on your toys. Im hoping my machinist buddy will be in his shop tomorrow so I can give him a little print I drew up for some diff brackets. There pretty simple so im hoping he can whip them up for me quickly. but being xmas and all I might have to wait to get them. If not I know all kinds of machine shops. all my customers are machine shops so not hard for me to get something done. So while waiting for brackets and some better diff cups I figured I would put some of the front together.
First thing I found was that I cut the bottom pins too short. I forgot to grind the heads down to size before I measured and cut the O.A.L. LOL Luckily those were the only ones I messed up and I had a couple more to fix my blunder. I make a lot of step drills and special tools and routinly calculate and measure off steps to come out to the right length at a given dia. ect. So to have screwed up something as simple as this - Well lets just say I had a couple of choice words to myself. And a good laugh.
Then when I went to put the front hcr skid on I see it don't fit with the flm bulks. Hits on the hindge pin collars and probably the brace if the collars were not there. I wanted to keep the brace and I wasn't about to hack up the used hcr skid that I just got and sanded out to look pretty good. (thanks blazers) So I figured I had two available choices. Go to ebay and buy one of those cpm ti front skids while there still there, or reach in the draw and grab this integy ti skid and use it. Well, the integy skid fits perfect. All the holes lined right up nice and flush and being a little thicker its perfectly flush with the chassis. Damm, I hate to have to swap out the hcr for integy in my parts list. lol But I have a set of these on one of my trucks and there really not too bad. They have proven to be pretty strong. Probably low grade ti but I think if they ever made any half decent parts this just might possibly be one of them.
Rc damper brushed alum bumpers and a black permanent marker. 15.00
A couple little spacers shortened up to fit in between the chassis braces and strengthen it where the tranny mounts.
A few more pics of my progress. Steel rings cemented on the carriers. Dual inner bearing set up. Painted the boot clips black.
This is one rock solid axle and bearing set up for shore.
Made some more 21mm shims if needed to line up the bone in the cup.
That's it for now. Stay tuned for more of my MMMMM (Mix and Mod Multi Mfg Maxx) Its almost turned into a challenge to see how many different mfg parts I can put in it. With motor esc tires wheels and servo I think im up to 25
Another thing I should mention is I hear from others that the hr alum diff cup I used is not very good. I knew it was nothing too special to begin with but a couple others have told me the same. The cast alum cases wear out quickly. So I hunted around and found these. They look a lot better as far as the case part goes anyway. Since I already put one together with the hr cup maybe ill just use it and beat the crap out of it till it breaks and build the other diff with this better looking cup.
The losi HD plastic cup with the steel inserts #losb3528 would probably hold up just as good but I just like the alum ones.
Last edited by cooleocool; 12-23-2013 at 03:27 PM. Reason: merge
Another Build on the go, nice! Looking good so far.
Always get a 2nd Opinion!
[QUOTE=Mugs;5620596]Another Build on the go, nice! Looking good so far.[/QUOT
Thanks mate, Good to hear from you.
I don't know what it is about your aluminium builds but I actually really like them, top job on all your builds
Slugs are just naturally aspirated snails
Thanks joe, I really enjoy building and modifying these things. Great hobby if you can spare the cash for it.
Some parts to fit the losi diff in the flm bulks.
mocked up the the rest of the rear to make shure everything fits.
And the flm dogbone from the 10900 chassis fits perfect.
Now waiting for some better diff cups to come so I can tear it back apart and put it back together with grease and oil this time.
Anybody have any ideas on what oil to use in the diff. Im looking to lock it up pretty good for some two wheel drive posi fun.
soo cool! When I drive my emaxxx.....i'll think how it would be would be if you lived next door!
Another awesome maxx build. Very impressive transmission one your build. Thanks for sharing, and great info .
I'm not krazy. My mother had me tested.
Thanks guys, I love doing things that nobody else has ever done.
That's nice, I run losi diffs on my emaxx, but with some home made plastic inserts.
How have the losi diffs held up in your maxx?
they have been holding great, but I run only 4s, they seem to be a bit slower. I guess due to the different tooth count.
More progress, I got the axles drilled and the knuckles set up. Bought some 5mm screws for the axles and they had big huge heads on them so I ground a little 10 degree taper on them for a cool look.
Picked up some cheapo shocks on ebay for this budget build. For 7.50 ea. I guess there ok. I really just wanted and liked the matching black and alum color they had. Hopfully they hold oil. lol
Mounted them to the rpm arms like this with one long screw and a spacer in the middle alowing me to squeeze the tabs together a little witch helps make room for the screw so it don't hit the tie rod. Also ground a little bit off the screw head for a little more clearance.
Theres no front shafts on this 2wd rig to be any problem but the rear is close. I did a quick mock up to see. Might have to limit travel a bit to keep the screw and spacer from hitting the shaft here. Have to mount shocks and see.
Thanks spenniepoos, Im having lots of fun building this one.
Little more progress. Finally remembered to pick up some black die for the boots.
Broke one of the shock ends trying to bend it a bit and loosen it up. At first I replaced it with a trx end. Then I remembered I had these cheap hr revo shock ends I had bought a long time ago. They fit these cheap shocks perfect. They were made for each other.lol
Made another set of "Tower Tubes" combination shock tower-chassis braces. Barely fit this set up on the motor side.
Well that's it for today. Boots are soaking and diff cups have finally shipped.
trucks looking awesome man cant wait to see it up and running, i did have two questions though, what is that castle quick link for? and how do you make your tower braces?
The smartest person, asks the most questions...
Thanks guys, The castle quick connect is for programming the esc on your computer.
For the tower braces I use 5/16" alum tubing. These particular ones I used some thicker .049 wall thickness tubing from McMaster carr. Then grind down one side of these little threaded shock things that come with the ue supershocks and epoxy them into the ends. You can also cut a little bit of threads in the ends of the tubing for a good place for the epoxy to hold in to.
I also made a little piloted counterbore to c,bore the mounting hole in the front tower to compensate for the slant of the tower and make it flush to the spacer and tube.
Do you have a link for the tubing
The smartest person, asks the most questions...
Okay thanks for the posts I'm guessing the castle QuickLink is faster than hooking up the regular Castle link? and if it's not so much trouble would you be able to post some pictures of the tubes showing the inserts and all?
The smartest person, asks the most questions...
Its quicker to hook up to the castle link if you leave the plug outside the box. Then you don't have to open rx box and unplug esc every time you want to make changes. And so much better than looking for blinking lights and listening for beeps to program it.
Ill see if I can get a pic of the tubes. Its Really just the little threaded things I posted above with the lip on one side of them ground down to fit inside the end of the tubing. There already 5/16 dia so the other side fits the tubing perfect. Easy for me as I have a grinding shop, and a spin grinding head that goes on one of my machines.
Finally got some better diff cups for this thing. There nicer than the hr ones in the fact that its better material and cnc machined but there downfall is the one pc design with an aluminum surface where the axle rides on them. So I got a little mod to fix that. I thought I bought two of these things but I got three so I put one together and put it in the truck as is with some 500k oil. So it probably wont get a lot of diff action anyway to wear on them. But maybe more than I think. Im going to have my buddy cut the ends off the other two on his lathe and then I can drill and tap the holes the rest of the way through and then drill and chamfer the holes in the hr ss endcaps and screw them right on to the cups. Then I will have the axles riding on some steel on both sides.
These things fit like a shoe. Not much room in there that's for shore. Fit good too only put one 0.1mm shim on one side of the diff and one .006 shim on the pinion.
Took a couple measurements and this will work sweet.
Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 01-18-2014 at 03:00 PM.
Been working on these diffs. Had my buddy cut them off on his lathe. Did a trial fit and see that I need to c,sink the end cap a little more and grind the screw heads dowm a tiny bit more to clear the case. What do you think? HR stainless steel end cap screwed to the innovative rc alum cup. I also notice the losi cross pins are about 1.055 long with a small 45 deg. chamfer and the width of the slots in the cup is about 1.105 with a radius in the corners. A terrible fit. So I ordered some 3.5mm hss stock so I can make some custom fit cross pins to fit the cups precisely. Im going to build this set for my optional 4wd package for this build.
Truck is pretty much a roller with the exception of some wheels and tires to roll on. Rear section is all together with center shaft, diff and drive shafts. The dogbone that came with my flm 10900 chassis fit perfect. I used a couple small pcs of some little springs in the cups to hold it centered.
Your builds should be featured in more magazines. Its a beauty, and would be a shelf queen for me It would be a shame to ruff up such beautifully machined parts! I thought about locking the diffs and lowering the gear to a crawler. You already made a screaming eagle!
Merv, Sl4sh, P4de, Embe, Slash
Thanks Dr, Im going to try not to beat this one up too much. Im really starting to like it. Thats the problem with spending so much time and money on one of these things. You don't want to scratch them up after. But not a whole lot of fun to just look at so it will be run. I always keep one body nice for the shelf. And one to run.
Made some custom cross pins to better fit these innovative rc alum diff cups.
Had a new mm1 esc so I picked up a castle 2200 motor from ebay new for 95.00. Makes for a nice clean looking easy plug and play installation. Also put some maximizer beadlocks and 3.2 roadrage tires together for it. I used the rage rings on the wheels so hopefully they hold together.
Its getting there. Still need a servo and horn. And a bit more work. Also got a jconcepts illusion body for it. Going to get some paint and try my hand at painting one of these things.