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  1. #1
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    slipper clutch upgrade

    Going to upgrade the slipper clutch pads to slash 4x4 long aluminium ones. Do I need to upgrade anytihng else.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. KyLeader7's Avatar
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    I've never heard of that mod before, but then again I sold my Jato a couple years back now... I would replicate the entire slash 4x4 friction setup if you do it. Different kinetic frictions between different materials may not produce the result you want.

    My stock pads were always more than enough for me Is your SG slipping when tightened?

    Cool username; I have a 70vdub
    Learn by doing

  3. #3
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    Yeah ended up ordering a revo double up clutch so can have 6 slipper pads instead of 3. Dont think its slipping, my jato is a brushless conversion and since trying to run 6s it is destroying the fibre pads. Bought a new set the other day and got about 3 or 4 runs down the street and heard the ting ting of them desintegrating and hitting the body.

    What kind of vdub you got? I have a type 3 notchback.

  4. #4
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    I also did this upgrade (the HD pads) on my jato. I didn't need anything else other then what came with the clutch pads.

  5. #5
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    Cool. I am going to try the aluminium pads with my jato setup. Then try the revo double up clutch, think I might have clearancing problems with my motor mount as it looks to be bigger than the jato setup.

  6. #6
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    As far as I can see you shouldn't have any issues with the aluminum pads. I cant say whether you'll run into trouble with the revo clutch?

  7. #7
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    Got my aluminium pads today and they held up to quite a few 6s speed runs.

    Goes unreal until about 3/4 throttle and then tries to take of into the air. I have turned the traxxas wheelie bar upside down and done a mod on the bar using an old camber link or toe link to bring it closer to the ground. I am also running 4 8oz fishing sinkers cable tied to my rpm bumper and stiffened the rear shocks to almost the max. But haven't been able to get full throttle yet without almost flipping. Goin to try a front wing setup to give the front downforce as it only wheelstands at high speeds and see how that goes.

  8. #8
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    Is it doing the wheelie when your jato shifts into the next gear? Maybe you could change the shift points?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67vdub View Post
    Got my aluminium pads today and they held up to quite a few 6s speed runs.

    Goes unreal until about 3/4 throttle and then tries to take of into the air. Goin to try a front wing setup to give the front downforce as it only wheelstands at high speeds and see how that goes.
    You could try to vent the body to reduce that "parachute effect". I know cutting some of the back out will reduce drag without compromising down-force, and venting the hood might create a little front down-force thus not capturing the air.
    This is all theory, I haven't tried it myself, but the SC guys do it at the track a lot...lol.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by bazookal07 View Post
    Is it doing the wheelie when your jato shifts into the next gear? Maybe you could change the shift points?
    My jato is locked in second gear as it is electric.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by diRt_JATO View Post
    You could try to vent the body to reduce that "parachute effect". I know cutting some of the back out will reduce drag without compromising down-force, and venting the hood might create a little front down-force thus not capturing the air.
    This is all theory, I haven't tried it myself, but the SC guys do it at the track a lot...lol.
    Might have to give that and a front wing a go when she's up and running again (really want to get rid of the weight on the front as it.... well adds weight and robs me of some speed). Clocked it doing 99 km/hr (still not full throttle, still can't get full throttle with the front wheels on the ground) yesterday with a buddies gps then hit a marker in the middle of the road rolled and snapped the primary shaft in half. Also stripped another wheel out where the drive hex goes.

  12. #12
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    You need to loosen the rear shocks all the way. The stiffer the rear shocks are the more its going to wheelie, you need them to be as soft as possible so some of the energy is put into the shocks. My old jato would hardly ever wheelie with the shocks at their softs setting but once I would tighten them all the way down all it would do is wheelie
    Twin Brushless Latrax Teton, .21TM Jato

  13. #13
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    I am running the shocks front and rear pretty much at max stiffness to compensate for all the weight it is carrying. Will try that as well. Thanks mate.

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