Handling Issues Slayer Pro
I'm having issues with taking the slayer out on pavement and doing high speed passes. As soon as i hit second gear which isn't very long It's almost as if its to much power and starts to turn slightly forcing me to straighten out the vehicle which causes it to almost instantly roll and cartwheel 4 driveways. Iv'e honestly never driven it on anything but this little bmx track next to my house that is all blacktop with bumps, jumps and cool burns. My motor is the stock 3.3 that is ported and polished. stock oil, and pretty much everything else, except All my aluminum skid plates and guards. Im confused, my tmaxx handles better then this..
Of course your T-Maxx handles better than it: it has wider arms and tires. You may want to consider lowering it a little or adding sway bars.
After posting this i did happen to see the sway bars, will that help with the rolling?
Originally Posted by Double G
Your rig is sitting way too high for anything other than climbing rocks or boulders (slayer crawler? Whaaaa?)....set your ride height back to normal. Sway bars make a big difference also. make sure to pick up a set after you re-adjust your ride height. There are several other things that can cause that, but, your extreme ride height is numero uno at this point
I did raise it quite a bit, It was dragging the back skid plate on take off. So I will most definitely be taking care of lowering it what weight shock oil would you prefer? I have already ordered a swaybar set so I am waiting for that to arrive while im making a few other purchases as well as getting my jato back on the road
Originally Posted by Happy Meal
My slayer also drifts to the left when it hits second gear when accelerating hard on pavement, but if you accelerate a bit slower or get used to when it is going to shift, it's controllable.
+1 on the sway bars and ride height, bot will make a big difference.
If your having tracking issues outside of being jacked to the moon. Check to make sure that your turnbuckles (toe-links) aren't worn out out back. To check this, While looking at the rear. Grab your rear wheels and try to make them "steer" while looking at the knuckle. If there is ANY movement at the toe-link. Replace item 5525R in the exploded view below. My original Slayer has had this issue twice since day one. And in need of it again. I will rid it of this issue once I finsish getting the needed parts to make it a pro.
Okay so i have gotten around to getting quite a few things changed, Right now i have gotten the revo sway bar kit with the black sway bars on right now front and back, I have put 45wt oil in the rear and 30 in the front, I also have the double orange springs in the rear stock springs up front.I also have RPM oversized hubs. I now have 17mm wheels on it if that matters if anything. We had one good day that i got to take it out and try it i didn't even get through a quarter tank till i rolled it and took a wheel off. Now how do i go about adjusting the ride height the easiest way. I don't want to change any rockers, ive seen the turnbuckles that you can use for the push rods but is there any other way? I also want to stop the back end skid plates from dragging how can i go about making a stop or something to stop it from going that far down?
RC Turnbuckle Jr.
^^^^^^^ That looks much better. I have mine sit with the arms just a little bit above level. Rockers have nothing to do with ride height, only the progressiveness of the suspension travel. There's only 2 things that affect ride height. Spring strength and the pre load collars. Loosen the tension on the spring = lower ride height, tighter tension = higher ride height. I loosen the pre load collars all the way towards the shock cap, then put a dot on the top of the collar on each shock with a white paint pen so I can keep track of how many turns I go so each shock will be equal in pre load. I do the same with the front also. With the springs I have on mine I'm only running about 2 to 3 turns of pre load on each shock.
As far as the drifting to one side. That's all in the setup. Toe camber etc. You really need a setup type system to get that stuff as close as you can. I just bought the DE racing setup wheel system but haven't used them yet but I can tell you they are a slick setup. I had some homemade metal discs that bolted on the axles that a friend of mine I work with in a fab shop cut them on a laser. They worked pretty decent but where heavy. You'll also need a camber gauge or you can even use the free Advanced Bubble level app if you are an android user.
My setup I run is:
0 - 1/16th inch toe out in the front
1/16th inch toe in on the rear
-1.5° to -2° camber all 4 wheels.
Last edited by CarGuy7a; 01-29-2014 at 01:38 AM.
Thank you for the useful information CarGuy7a! Is there a way to prevent the rear skid plate from dragging? Kind of like a bump stop of some sort? That was the main reason I had tightened the preload in the first place. I got this thing used ... well i should say beaten down or drove into a creek or something.. I got it for close to nothing and have loved it ever since. I plan on racing one day but i just want it driveable and controllable on pretty much any surface that i choose.
Have you tried the centre diff,i found the front end lifting wildly till I fitted diff.much better now runs more level
RC Turnbuckle Jr.
I've never had any problems with mine dragging. It might hit on a landing from a jump but I've never had it drag on accel. Either way that's what the skid plate is for. So it doesn't tear up the bulk.
There should already be a blue rubber bump stop on the GTR shock shafts.http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHGA2&P=7 They are the two blue bumpers in the top row middle 2 pieces.
Last edited by CarGuy7a; 01-30-2014 at 12:27 AM.