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  1. #41
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    Sure does. Was looking more for a length starting point to adjust from but that gives me an idea how to tune everything.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    So I am wondering. Looking into the lcg chassis a bit and notice there are complete lcg chassis and an lcg conversion kit. What's the difference? Am I assuming the conversion kit turns a stock traxxas chassis into the lcg or am I not understanding? For the price I think the conversion kit is a good choice.
    Just reposting this hoping for some input.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-12-2013 at 02:59 PM. Reason: merge
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  2. #42
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    From what I understand the strc lcg is a type of conversion kit but units like pro line, anza, hot racing and a few others are completely different chassis s.
    You use your slash parts on the new unit but none of the original chassis.
    I run a pro line as shown below but my next 2wd build will be anza.

    While having many strong similaritys I like the anxa better.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  3. #43
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    I was indeed looking at the strc conversion kit part # STRC ST5822 which about $50, but I also found the conversion kit with a traxxas chassis for $60. What is the benefit of one over the other? I know lcg is the way to go for racing, but which is better in the long run, conversion or complete?

    Looks like a little less than $100 for the proline and half that for the conversion.
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  4. #44
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    I was indeed looking at the strc conversion kit part # STRC ST5822 which about $50, but I also found the conversion kit with a traxxas chassis for $60. What is the benefit of one over the other? I know lcg is the way to go for racing, but which is better in the long run, conversion or complete?

    Looks like a little less than $100 for the proline and half that for the conversion.
    My opinion would be any of them get the job done, again imo with the exception of losing a bit of ground clearance the lcg is a large improvement.
    You cut your traction roll down tremendously, its 100% different truck as far as handling is concerned.
    I run a stock slash chassis as one of my racing classes calls for it.
    I can put my pro open truck(pictured above) into a corner at near top speed, on the same track with the other rig I have to do a lot more manipulation.
    If your strictly a baser I'm not sure you'll want a lcg.
    While I run both my stock chassis slash is still a blast.
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  5. #45
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    I might look into it a little more seriously then. The slash is being built as my dedicated racer...I got the p2de for bashing.

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    Just checked tracking and it looks like all but the strc castors and strc king pins will be here tomorrow, those will be here Thursday. Last day of vacation so I will be pretty busy soon as the mail carrier gets here. Totally planned that wrong but oh well.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-12-2013 at 02:58 PM. Reason: merge
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  6. #46
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    Just checked tracking and it looks like all but the strc castors and strc king pins will be here tomorrow, those will be here Thursday. Last day of vacation so I will be pretty busy soon as the mail carrier gets here. Totally planned that wrong but oh well.
    Time can be an issue for sure, this is one of the good things about winter, rc rejuvenation time.
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  7. #47
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    Just about ready to go out and run down the mail truck for my parts. Expecting 12 packages. The wait is excruciating....does the adrenaline rush ever pass? After 8 years in this hobby my sickness is no better than the first time I pulled a Tx trigger. Got a little part swap to do on the p2de so hopefully that will kill some time. Last day of vacation today and I think it's going to be a late night.

    YAHTZEE!! Time to rock n roll. Upside down..oops



    Been a long day with assembly. Ordered what I can only assume after an hour of monkeying around, the wrong Mips cvd's. So for now I through on a set of 4x4 rear shafts from a p4de. Correct one's are on the way.

    Next issue is the strc bell cranks. I cannot for the life of me figure out to install them. I don't have the original set up anymore so nothing to reference and I can't see my original pictures well enough to make out orientation of the parts. The assembly manual is hard to see as well.

    Anyone got a picture of the bell crank assembly I can use for reference?

    That's it, eyes hurt and figures are sore...done for the day. Here is the progress I made. You may notice stock plastic castors....yep, they are for now until the aluminum one's get here. Just wanted to get the front end mocked up to see how it looks. Gonna get back at it tomorrow after work.







    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-14-2013 at 09:10 AM. Reason: merge
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  8. #48
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    Looking good! I like those RPM arms, almost makes me wish my stock ones would snap... almost.
    El que se rie, de sus maldades se acuersa.

  9. #49
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    It's looking good! I like the red a arms they add a nice touch


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  10. #50
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    Made some good headway this afternoon. Black Widow is almost ready to run. Left yet to do:

    1. put the rear bumper on, which I'm trying to figure out because the HR transmission is thinner than a stock housing

    2. Changing out the 2075 servo for the Futaba S3305 I originally bought for the p2de

    3. Gear the motor

    4. Paint the body (that will be here tomorrow)

    5. Put the correct MIPS axles in (Here tomorrow)

    5. Install the aluminum castors. I liked how the black plastic ones looked color wise so I ordered HR black aluminum. I'll keep the strc red ones that get here tomorrow for spares.

    6. Bind the new Tx/Rx

    7. Open her up on some 3S 50c ponies.

    So here are the pics.....ANd before anyone says anything...yes I know I need some locking nuts in a few areas still

















    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-14-2013 at 09:09 AM. Reason: merge
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  11. #51
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    So here is my next stupid question and problem. I know I can't gear this the same way I gear my p2de. I don't have the right pinion/spur combination of HR gears so I will just use some 48p traxxas gears. I have on hand some 90t, 86t, and a 76t spurs, and a wide range of pinions. What will be a good set up given what I have? *note...I do not have any 20,21, or 22t pinions. I am thinking 19/90 or 21/86 (keeping in mind I would have to buy a 21t pinion) but that brings me to next issue.

    Next issue. I have an 86t spur on the transmission right now and when I put a stock traxxas gear cover on it rubs against the cover...even worse with a 90t. There must be something different about the HR transmission but it seems I need a deeper gear cover. Thoughts? I am going to head over to HR's parts site and see what is available.
    Last edited by Thefixxer73; 11-13-2013 at 08:33 PM.
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  12. #52
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    TheFixxer73's Slash Project

    If the rubbing isn't very bad just let the spur cut a groove in the cover. The RPM cover may give a bit more room.
    Last edited by ksb51rl; 11-13-2013 at 10:10 PM.
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  13. #53
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    Thanks. I did check into an hr cover but the dimensions are the same as stock...and it has a note about max spur size no more than 87. Thought about putting some shock oil on the spur...putting the cover on...turn the wheels by hand and see if where its rubbing transfers to gear cover and dremel a bit where it rubs.

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  14. #54
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    TheFixxer73's Slash Project

    I'd not use any kind of oil near the slipper assembly. Wite-Out marks very well and comes off easily.
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  15. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    I'd not use any kind of oil near the slipper assembly. Wite-Out marks very well and comes off easily.

    Noted. I would have simple greened it afterwards though, but I like the white out idea better.

    So the next thing I'm looking for is a good servosaver. I just have the stock horn and I think that would be fine with the stock 2075 traxxas servo but I am putting the Futaba S3305 metal gear servo in it (per rag6 suggestion of using fast servo for racing) . I'm looking at the Kimbrough 124 servo saver but also the Hot Racing SHS88H which I also have on my p2de. The 124 is about half the cost and available at my little mom-n-pop lhs. The HR one I would have to order and wait for and usps shipping is totally messed up right now. I guess firstly, will these even fit the slash 2wd because the servo savers I have seen for it are like the TRA3744.
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  16. #56
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    I have that servo. With the stock chassis you need an extension for the wire to reach the receiver.

  17. #57
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Next perce View Post
    I have that servo. With the stock chassis you need an extension for the wire to reach the receiver.
    Thats right, I forgot about that.
    In the pic tho hard to see thru the tape the extension starts on the servo side of the chassis.[IMG][/IMG]
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  18. #58
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    Ok..extention acquired. What about the servo saver choices?

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  19. #59
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    Ok..extention acquired. What about the servo saver choices?

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    I cant really help you there, I dont run servo savers, especially with steel geared servo's, in fact thats why I run them.
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  20. #60
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    So the stock horn with a metal gear servo is good? The hr unit I'm looking at it aluminum.

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  21. #61
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thefixxer73 View Post
    So the stock horn with a metal gear servo is good? The hr unit I'm looking at it aluminum.

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    I'm a racer, anything we can do to eliminate play is a plus, I dont however want to suggest something that will cause you trouble.
    I can say I've been in some pretty wicked wrecks and never lost a steal geared servo yet.
    I run the futaba s3305 in most all my rc's.
    The one below is slated for my scalpel.
    [IMG][/IMG]
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  22. #62
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    The black kimbrough 124 is a great option. Priced right and does the job. Hot racing looks cool but I wasn't impressed with it. I had the black hr saver and the center part kept coming loose. Finally used red locktite.


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  23. #63
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    The kimborough 124 is stiff enough. I would def run it. It will save your linkages from bending, even if the servo can take the abuse of no saver.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  24. #64
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    Just took the Black Widow out for it's maiden run...kind of on a whim because it is cold and dark out with the only light being from a street light on the corner. I have not switched the servos yet (waiting for extension) and I only had a storage charge in the 3S. Was just sitting here looking at it on the floor and thought what the hey. I think I geared it 19/86 from when I was goofing around with the gear cover last night so I figured for a short run it would be okay. Motor temp never went above 100 in the 5 minutes I ran it. But I also wasn't pushing it hard. Just a few quick short bursts at WOT and a rip or two through the grass.

    First of all.....holy cow. What an animal. Very pleased with the performance. This is going to be soooo much easier to race than the p2de. But then...always a but then, and this explains the short 5 minute run.....



    So...Kimborough 124 is on the way. Not sure why that broke but I have to think it's because it was a recycled part from the original abused basket case.
    Last edited by Thefixxer73; 11-14-2013 at 10:45 PM.
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  25. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirty don View Post
    The black kimbrough 124 is a great option. Priced right and does the job. Hot racing looks cool but I wasn't impressed with it. I had the black hr saver and the center part kept coming loose. Finally used red locktite.
    I have that same HR black one on my p2de and it broke the drive gear off the 2070 servo.
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  26. #66
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    It broke because there is no servo saver in the bell cranks anymore, it was cold out, and it was the weakest link. If you do decide to go without any saver, you must use an aluminum arm... but then your links may start failing.

    I raced one of those plastic arms on carpet for months with a 4x4(with saver) stock bell crank. I only changed out to an alum one because the plastic one was flexing too much and causing the steering to be mushy. Death while racing on carpet.
    Last edited by rag6; 11-15-2013 at 04:04 AM.
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  27. #67
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    I've been racing with this set up(below)for over a year and suffered many a crash thinking I was going to be replacing something(ie steering parts).
    While it is a steal geared servo with Jato linkage I never had issue with any steering part what so ever.
    Imo the fact that you didn't take the servo gears out of the stock plastic unit causes me to reason it was in fact a bad part also.
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  28. #68
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    Ok, just so we are all on the same page. The part pictured above that broke...that is called a servo horn (tra6845 which going off that part number is the whole unit with the bell cranks) and the Kimborough 124 and Hot Racing aluminum equivalent is called a servo saver? I'm getting confused so let's start over.

    I want to run the Futaba S3305 servo in addition to the STRC aluminum bell cranks. What is the most durable way to connect the two? The way it's pictured above......or with the Kim 124 or HR saver. And what link should I use between the horn/saver to the bell crank? Need a good solid answer to get the fuzz out of my understanding.

    Now, in my haste to get this truck rtr I may have overlooked the condition of the horn to begin with. It may have been damaged...I don't know. It was not cold freeze your behind off, about 40ish so I don't think the outside temp played a roll in it's breakage. When it snapped I had just went up the side of a stump. If it was cracked before the stress of that impact would have finished the job. That's all theory.....but I like it.

    However....quick note....when I got it it had the stock bell cranks and stock horn and stock link. Which would solidify to some degree, rag6's answer.
    Last edited by Thefixxer73; 11-15-2013 at 03:03 PM.
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  29. #69
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    Today's projects

    Got a few things to do today.

    Install the MIPS cvds, Kimborough 124 servo saver, new futaba servo, Hot Racing aluminum castors, and hopefully finish up the bug body (which I painted yesterday) w/ the Grave Digger red headlights. Got some stuff to do on the p2de to so fun fun fun.



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  30. #70
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Just realized I failed to provide a pic in post 67.
    Anyway heres a pic of the jato linkage I like running, this is with the s3305.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Heres the same set up with the stock chassis just before I put the s3305 in place of the stock servo.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Again I dont run servos savers on the track but for bashing they may in fact be advantageous.
    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKMF6
    Last edited by billy-bones; 11-17-2013 at 12:37 PM. Reason: miss spelling
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  31. #71
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    The Kimbrough 124 saver is for metal geared servo's only I have 2 of them on my Clod (4WS) w/ Losi 125oz/in MG servo's they're tougher than a Traxxas HD - I use a Traxxas HD if using a Traxxas or similar plastic gear servo (where they will fit anyway)
    Slash 2wdOR Kyosho Blitzer TA05 70 Chall AE SC10

  32. #72
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    It is DONE!!! (pic heavy)

    Black Widow is complete except for the servo extension wire. These pictures really don't do it justice. It is a gorgeous truck, almost too pretty to race. For racing I do not plam on using the bug body. I will use the stocl #47 body it came with. The only original parts from the basket case are the chassis which was dyed black, and the rear body mount.





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  33. #73
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  34. #74
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    Sorry about my finger in the way.
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  35. #75
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. billy-bones's Avatar
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    Absolutely beautiful.
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  36. #76
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    First time on the track tomorrow night. Little nervous about it. Haven't had much practice with it yet and it's just stupid fast on 3S. I will have to see what the other driver's are running for packs but I might just stick my 2s in for the first couple races to get the hang of it. It is so much different to drive than my p2de.
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  37. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    Absolutely beautiful.
    Thanks bro. Kinda wished I would have went a candy apple metallic red instead of metallic black. The black widow decal is a bit hard to see unless it's in the right light. But then you never really see a black widow coming either.....so mission accomplished I guess
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  38. #78
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Some red trinidad wheels will look crazy after those stockers wear out. Also, I you want the exact same look, the s1 tires will do much better racing 8)

    The alum 2wd crank with a 124 will be the most durable setup. Also the 124 is stiff enough to race on carpet...Stiffer than a stock 4wd (w/saver)crank with alum horn.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  39. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Some red trinidad wheels will look crazy after those stockers wear out. Also, I you want the exact same look, the s1 tires will do much better racing.
    Trinidads look pretty cool. Remind me almost of old crager ss rims guys were putting on the their cars in high school. As far as tires go those are the shelf tires....just for looks. The proline split 6 wrapped in trencher sc shoes are for the track. That seems to be the majority of what the guys are using at the track.
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  40. #80
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    Race night!!. Headed to the track this morning for some rented track time to test n tune. Looking forward to see how this baby stings!!
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