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  1. #1
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    Convert a MeRevo to a 1/10th 4wd Buggy

    well at least the plan so far is to convert a brushless MeRevo into a local club racer level 1/10th 4wd buggy. Other than the chassis stretch kit, I'll be using RPM control arms and knuckles. I'll keep posting progress photos as I go.

    From this:


    To something like this:

  2. #2
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    just buy a 1/10th four wheel drive buggy

  3. #3
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    wheres the fun in that? need a challenge, I love building and modifying, easily as much as racing/bashing/crawling

  4. #4
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    Well this will end up in 2 ways!

    It will not happen... with neither photos....
    Or it will look so weird that will break each time you plug the batery....

    And could be a third way... your way if you have the skills.

    By your post you are a newbie in here.... don't know how many years of rc you got...
    You are not the first that's a fact! But can you make it handle and durable as a rtr?

    Time will tell.

    One advice...FOR ME if people say it's impossible that's the first step for me to make it happen in the next weeks... and i am not talking just about RC! (but sometimes i bang my head on concrete) lol

    Good luck.
    Last edited by targetingxmod; 10-18-2013 at 12:18 PM.

  5. #5
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    I fully know where your coming from targetingxmod. I've been tinkering with RC's since about 1990, with some success. I come up with kinda odd stuff, but I hate fragile rigs, so I've been using aluminum a lot. My first big mod project was a Traxxas Hawk2 back in the 90's. Built a double deck chassis and a new motor mount to put the motor down against the chassis. Handled almost as good as the RC10T I was racing at the time. My last big project was a LCG 2wd Slash (before they really became popular). Hydro formed an aluminum tub chassis for it. Overall it was a little heavy, but really tough, and handled incredibly well.

    As for this project, parts I have or are on order so far:
    MeRevo (VXL Brushless version)
    Hot Racing graphite extended chassis kit
    RPM front and rear control arms
    RPM knuckles (all)
    JConcepts PN 0258 body w/ wing
    AKA Impact tires on white wheels (for 4wd buggies)
    Traxxas center diff
    1800mah 2s Lipos (x2, will mount 2 on the car and run a parallel harness to keep legal for the local club Max V = 7.4)

    I've already figured out I will have about a 10" wheelbase, where most of the pro buggies are 11" or so. I have also acknowledged I will be about 1/2 to 3/4 the overall weight of a pro car. I'm hoping the stock drivetrain will hold up. If not, I will upgrade as needed when I find a weak point. I'm not trying to build a full pro race car. If I wanted that I would build that. I want something different and fun for the local club level. I've always liked Traxxas's cantilever suspension system. It lowers the overall CG, and makes a very supple and nimble suspension.

    Oh and BTW, not a kid, I'm 38 LOL

    my last Slash project http://s726.photobucket.com/user/Sha...?sort=6&page=1

    thats fun, they blanked the name brand of the LIPO's I'm running. Sorry moderators, didn't know.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-09-2013 at 03:56 PM. Reason: post merge

  6. #6
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    or you could buy a 4x4 slash, 4x4 stampede 4x4, or an traxxas 4x4 at the 1/10 scale it will be easer for you

  7. #7
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    getting closer to being able to build it, still waiting on a couple pieces I'm missing from the donor truck.

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
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    don't do that to the MERV, do this instead, http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-(truggy)-P4de!
    humay has left the building, peace.

  9. #9
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    Are you going to upgrade the Motor & ESC to a 1/10 setup? What are your plans for batteries? I wished someone made a buggy body for the 1/16 chassis.

    Good luck with the build Shayne82609. Don't let the haters bring you down.

  10. #10
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    thanks mercenario27. I'm hoping to leave the 380 VXL system in place for now. Like I said earlier, this only a local club racer on a indoor carpet track. This buggy is adding up to be 1/2 to 3/4 the total rolling weight of the other cars. I'm going to drop one tooth on the pinion (from factory gearing) to correct for the taller tires (3.125" stock > 3.25" new). I'm planning to run a pair of 1800mah 2s LIPO's with a parallel harness (local club rules max 7.4v). The lipos I have ordered are 50c rating each, so should provide plenty of punch, and 3600 total onboard mah's should get close to the same run time as the much larger and heavier saddle packs normal for the class.

    as for the haters, I'm baffled. This is a 99% bolt on conversion that lets an otherwise basher only rig race with the club. It's not a cheap conversion by any means, it just puts the technology of a very nimble PBS cantilever suspension into a light weight 4wd racing platform. Almost like having a scaled down 1/8th buggy.

    the 4wd Stampede could also be converted I suppose, but it's already heaver than class regulars. And I would have to fab up a custom chassis to make it the right wheelbase AND low center of gravity.

    A little diff maintenance tonight. I picked up a used MRevo, it was a little gritty/dirty.

    Will be running 50,000wt oil in the front and center diffs, and 10,000wt oil in the rear. Figure it would at least some place to start.



    First round of build time

    Diffs cleaned and diff oil added >
    Trans cleaned, center diff added >
    RPM arms added on all 4 corners >

    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-09-2013 at 03:58 PM. Reason: merge

  11. #11
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    Sweet! Looks awesome!
    MERV, Broken Alias.

  12. #12
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    Last of the new parts (I hope!)
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  13. #13
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    Are you going to convert to an upright shock or keep the lay down shock layout.
    It is pretty easy to convert.
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  14. #14
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    I'm leaving the lay down cantilever system. It's one of the reasons I choose the MRevo.
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  15. #15
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    What body are you going to run?
    With great brushless comes great responsibility.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by humayrayakongkinaon View Post
    don't do that to the MERV, do this instead, http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-(truggy)-P4de!
    nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by Shayne82609 View Post
    First round of build time

    Diffs cleaned and diff oil added >
    Trans cleaned, center diff added >
    RPM arms added on all 4 corners >

    I've been wanting to try that chassis out for a touring car. I'm look forward to your thoughts on it.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by revoman78 View Post
    What body are you going to run?
    I picked up a JConcepts Illuzion Finnisher (PN 0258). It has a bit more of a bulge on the nose that I hope will clear the shocks, and a cab forward layout that should clear the motor. I'll punch holes in the windshield and side windows to help cool the motor.

    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    nice!

    I've been wanting to try that chassis out for a touring car. I'm look forward to your thoughts on it.
    I originally thought about doing a drifter with this project. I even have the Traxxas Mini Slash CVD shafts, and aluminum pushrod kits with that in mind. I would be glad to get some extra pics of the chassis or any other info on it you'd like. There really just isn't much from Hot Racing. The chassis kit didn't even come with instructions. I've figured out what most of the extra little aluminum brackets are from the various pictures I've found on the internet.

    That being said, the graphite plates are very good quality. The edges are still as cut, and need sanded and sealed so they wont fray or splinter, but that's a normal "racer thing" anyway. All of the aluminum parts appear to be machined cast pieces. Fit and finish is good to excellent. They included very good quality hardware. I have had NO problems with the included bolting. I have enough of the chassis together now to see that the lower brace only stiffens the top plate, it does not tie into the front or rear bulkheads. For a drifter/Touring Car, this should not be a problem, the top deck is VERY stiff. For a racing class 4wd buggy, I'm planning to replace the bottom plate with something that ties everything together and provides a "carpet friendly bottom skid" per local club rules. I usually use 1/8" thk lexan as my preferred material.

    I will post more details and thoughts on this chassis as I build it. Steering servo mounting will be a whole chapter in itself I think. If anyone would more info on anything I post on here, please ask, or PM, be glad to help. Taking pics and posting them on my Photobucket is a very simple an quick task with my workbench and camera setup. There will eventually be more pics on my Photobucket than I will post here.
    Last edited by Shayne82609; 10-26-2013 at 11:14 PM.
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    I've googled and googled and I can't find this chassis. Anyone know where to look? I looked on hrs website under Merv upgrades.
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  19. #19
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    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. mwe-maxxowner's Avatar
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    Is this the only extended chassis available?
    460, straightpipes, buried throttle, nuff said :D

  21. #21
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    yes, as far as I know
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  22. #22
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    I purchased mine thru Hobby Etc. First time purchase thru them, and had really good service, and fast shipping.

    Graphite kit - http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...=VXS16GS;c=466
    http://www.hobbyetc.com/item.cgi?part_id=80188

    Aluminum kit - http://www.hot-racing.com/index.cgi?...=VXS16HS;c=466
    http://www.hobbyetc.com/item.cgi?part_id=62800

    I also agreed with SLW-SVT, to my knowledge its the only extended chassis kit available for this series of cars.

    Another night of working on the buggy. Still need to align the suspension. The shock placement on the chassis will need some attention. I'm not sure what Hot Racing intended with the design, but just bolting it together the lower control arms are uphill with the suspension at full droop. After some fiddling with different ideas, the shock mount will need to move towards the rockers about 3/8" of an inch, or I will find some longer shock ball ends. I'll get some pics of what it looks like before and after as I fix it.





    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-09-2013 at 04:00 PM. Reason: merge
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  23. #23
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    DO you have any closer up pictures?
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  24. #24
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    anything specific SLW-SVT? I'll be taking some more of the suspension when I dive into the geometry, next time I'm working on the bench.

    Another fella on here had similar issues installing the aluminum kit
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...rsion-for-Merv
    Last edited by Shayne82609; 11-05-2013 at 12:41 PM.
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  25. #25
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    no just closer pictures of it all. Stinks that you have to do custom stuff to make that expensive chassis work.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  26. #26
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    SLW-SVT I dumped a bunch of pics onto my Photobucket account pertaining to this project, including a bunch of higher res close ups of the chassis. Have a look. Like I've said, if there's anything specific you want to see, let me know.
    http://s726.photobucket.com/user/Sha...%204wd%20Buggy

    Would be REALLY nice to see some sort of instruction manual on this chassis kit. I'm missing something somewhere on the shock setups. If I move the shock mount down the chassis (toward the diff), I can get everything to line up and move correctly. But with the stock shocks, rockers, and pushrods, this suspension looks more like a F1 car than any sort of offroader. The purple wheels are HPI Super RS4's with asphalt tires on them. 2.2" wheels, tires are very close to 3" OD.




    Regular touring car HPI drifter tires just for comparison. I dont think you could drive it anywhere this low. It would need to be raised at least 1/4".


    Front shock setup currently (rear is similar, shocks placed in the same hole on the mount):
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-09-2013 at 04:01 PM. Reason: merge
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  27. #27
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    thanks for the link. Could this be an opportunity to run some longer shocks?
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  28. #28
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    if you know of something longer that fits the cantilever system, let me know, that would be the easy solution, and would bolt on.

    Stockers are right at 49mm long (eye to eye). Ideally I need to be at 55mm long.
    Last edited by Shayne82609; 11-05-2013 at 11:34 PM.
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  29. #29
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    I would need longer pushrods to make the suspension taller. I tried some tierods in place of the pushrods, and that sorta worked. Suspension was the right height. But the added length makes the tips of the rockers collide with each other, binding the suspension. It also pushes in on the shocks so far the rocker comes very close to over-centering (pivot, shock eye and shock mount aligning).
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  30. #30
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    I think if we can resolve the shock placement issue, anyone could choose their ride height by either moving the shock mount (an adjustable mount would be really slick), or using Slash/rally pushrods instead of MRevo/MSummit, or making adjustable pushrods

    The other thing I noticed last night, was that the shock's spring cup touches the chassis when fully compressed, and the adjuster nut is right against the chassis. I'm thinking a spacer would be in order to fix it. But if I make a spacer, I think I'll make one that relocates the shock mount at the same time. Essentially moving the shocks up off the chassis 2-3mm and back towards the rockers about 6mm.
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  31. #31
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    hummmm, can you show me a link to it?
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  32. #32
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    check out these shocks. They are a little longer
    http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...w+installation
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  33. #33
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    Nice build! But you should really dye your rockers black..

    For shocks, check the Yeah Racing Shocks #DSG-0055GM. They might work.

    The YR DP1001-TI shocks from the post above are not made anymore, as far as i know.

  34. #34
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    This is turning out nicely! I like the concept.
    And there he goes with the carbon...

  35. #35
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    ok, I feel a little embarrassed at the moment. You guys hit this one on the head.

    Gee who else in the RC world would use a 55mm long shock and wants a 200mm Sedan (like the Hot Racing chassis kit is ADVERTISED as)?

    Um drifters (touring cars).

    So I borrowed a pair of Losi JRX-2 shocks from a buddy, just for mock up. Pics and details as follows:
    Stock shocks = 48mm (eye CL - eye CL)


    "drifter shocks" = 54mm (55mm'ish)


    A little parts comparison. Stock Traxxas Mini Revo shock on the left. Losi JRX-2 shock on the right. "Mystery spring: chrome" from the HR kit is in the center. I think they intended to for us to use a 55mm shock, but one with a diameter similar to the stock shock.


    Installed: Full droop, Front, (left side is the JRX-2 shock)


    Installed: Compressed, Front


    Installed: Full droop, Rear


    Installed: Compressed, Rear


    front shot for comparison: (Full droop both sides)


    Front, JRX-2 shock, drooped at 173mm (not relative to anything in particular, just were my ruler got propped up. It stays relative throughout for accurate suspension movement measurements)


    Front, JRX-2 shock, compressed at 224mm. That's 51mm total travel.



    I think this is the most telling shot. Both sides are at full droop. Left side of the car (right side of the pic) is just touching the bench. And yet when you full compress both sides, they both stop at the same up travel. If you look at the pic of the front end compressed, note the rockers are aligned. SOMEONE designed the silly thing to use 55mm shocks!!!!!

    Keep in mind, so far, the chassis is as supplied by Hot Racing. No modifications anywhere.



    Continued thoughts on the shock topic (I did resist the urge to use a pun there, shocking isn't it).

    I think I will use larger bore (aka big bore) touring car/drifter shocks for this build. If your building a touring car/drifter, I would think something in a OE supplied shock would work great here. I'm building something that will see a fairly high suspension cyclic rate, and will be pushing the shocks limits. Knowing that, I'll be shopping around for shocks that fit this build.

    I've also noticed I will need to use a small shim under the shock where it bolts to the shock mount, to accommodate the larger bore shocks.

    The stock shocks on this MRevo have "green" springs on them. Traxxas PN 7146 (1/16 E-Revo GTR Shock Springs- 1.92 rate). I'll use a slightly heavier replacement spring in the rear, due to the changed weight balance of the new chassis. Probably something similar to the "tan" springs (Traxxas Pn 7147, 1/16 E-Revo GTR Shock Springs- 2.06 rate). I'm hoping this will keep it close to original spring rates, and at least give me a solid starting point.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-09-2013 at 03:53 PM. Reason: merge
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  36. #36
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    Glad you figured that out. So if I was going to run this chassis on a touring sedan, the normal traxxas shocks will be perfect? That would make sense since that was what this chassis is aimed at.
    Pro-2 SCB 2xSuperMaxx Revo-E SCT410

  37. #37
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    I dont know that I would run one that low, SLW-SVT. Stock shocks and drifter tires on it, the bottom plate is only about 1/8" off the bench. And I dont even have a battery or electrics mounted in it yet. Dont let my picturesw deceive you. The purple wheels are relatively large HPI Super RS4 (2.2 wheels). They work great for setting up buggies that normally use 2.2" wheels as well.

    Another issue I see is the stock shocks allow the rockers to go so far back they could pass the point were the shocks 2 eyes and the rocker pivot align. Potentially allowing it to flip past that point.

    My suggestion would be to run the 55m shocks, so the shocks and rockers are at the correct geometry. Then adjust the ride height using a shorter pushrod.

    well a little "parts bin engineering" led me to purchase some Traxxas Nitro 4-Tec upgrade Big Bore shocks (P/N 2658). I'll post up some installed pics when they show up. From comments I've read on them, they're about 55mm. Seems some people out there prefer them to the cheap blingy ones. They also include a shorter set of shafts. I'll play with those a little and see what lengths they come up with.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 11-09-2013 at 03:50 PM. Reason: merge
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  38. #38
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    This conversion looks interesting i would love to see the full conversion i wouldnt mind doing this as well!

  39. #39
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    Well the shocks showed up in the mail today. I also picked up a Hitec HS-7775MG servo for steering duties.

    Hope to have some build time soon.

    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

  40. #40
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    Well the 4-Tec shocks are too long. With the short shaft installed they're 57mm eye to eye, long shafts = 60mm. The short shafts put the suspension under tension when it's topped out. The other problem is the bodies are too long for the application. Compressed length is 50mm with either shaft. This doesn't allow for the suspension to fully compress. Did some measuring and the shocks really need to be 54-55mm long extended, 45mm compressed.

    So long story short, I ordered some of the Losi JRX-S shocks like my buddies. They seemed to fit really well. I'll post up pics of measured lengths, suspension measurements, etc, when I get back into it.

    In the meantime I'll get a little off topic. I finished up my other Traxxas rig.
    Traxxas Bandit 2wd
    first gen slipper (lighter rotating mass) and Robinson Racing Stealth series spur.
    3250 sensored brushless system. With the gears, this buggy rolls almost as quiet as the other big name buggies on the track, and it's incredibly smooth!
    Everything RPM makes for these is installed, other than all Traxxas camber and toe links.
    Proline wheels with Proline's new Z3 Carpet compound tires. If anyone is interested in these, let me tell you THEY STICK LIKE VELCRO!!!!!! I actually had a spool in it previously. With these tires installed, I barely had any steering unless I was on the throttle hard. So swapped a gear diff back into it with some heavy grease in it. Hoping to see how well that works tomorrow night.
    Do not think outside the box, redesign the box

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