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Thread: Gear question

  1. #1
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    Gear question

    So I decided to change my gears today, and before I really researched the best method I took it all apart, not knowing I only need to remove the 3 screws on the gear and pry it off. Anyway I took the main nut and spring off and put it back on after I replaced the gear and pinion. After doing so the truck wouldn't freely roll like before, and it didn't sound right on test drive. Is it possible to over tighten the main nut and spring? How to tight should it be? Needing some guidance, don't want to tear this thing up. Thanks for the help.

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Maybe over tightening could have broken the roll pin in the top gear?
    I have cranked the slipper down very tight before with no issues. Take the clutch assembly off of the top shaft and spin it by hand to feel if the trans is spinning free with no resistance.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    Maybe over tightening could have broken the roll pin in the top gear?
    I have cranked the slipper down very tight before with no issues. Take the clutch assembly off of the top shaft and spin it by hand to feel if the trans is spinning free with no resistance.
    Ok I'll check that out, I loosened the slipper this morning and there is still a clicking when I roll it, it doesn't feel very smooth like the others when I roll it.

  4. #4
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    It's either gear mesh or the idler gear.

    Take your spur gear off, then check your diff action (port wheel forward, starboard wheel should spin aft). If that sounds/feels good then spin port and starboard wheels forward , if that sounds/feels good then spin aft. If that sounds/feels good, then your idler gear should be good along with your planetary gears in your diff and the diff its self. The layshaft gear and shaft should move when both wheels go in the same direction or when one wheel is held and the other wheel is spun. Again if that sounds/feels good then your layshaft gear and shaft are good.

    If its none of those then its gear mesh. New gears are slightly bigger than worn ones and you have to move the motor to compensate gear wear. First thing with the slipper off still. Loosen the two motor mounting screws behind the pinion gear, then move motor aft.

    Then its onto the slipper, first thing your going to want to do is remove the shine from the friction pads. To do that use a razor blade and scrape the shine off, with out digging into the pad. Then you'll want to resurface your friction plate, use a high number grit sand paper (the higher the better). Put the sand paper on a hard flat surface. Wet the paper with water. Then in a circular motion, sand the friction plate till the shine is gone and you have an even surface.

    Then reassemble. Pin, friction plate mount, friction plate, friction pad/hub/bearing/spur assembly, spring, and lock-nut. In that order.

    Tighten down lock nut all the way then loosen 2-3 turns as a starting point.

    Next is your gear mesh. You want to get the gears as close as possible without them binding, slight play is ok. I don't do the paper method because its too loose. After you get the motor retightened down. Take your truck and push it on the ground. If everything seems ok install your fully charged battery.

    Slipper adjustment. Should be done on surface you are running on. I'm going to use carpet because thats what im racing on now....

    Turn your transmitter on.

    Holding truck off ground, turn receiver on. Place truck in front of you. Place a foot infront of the truck and apply power for a second or two, this seats the pads better.

    Push the truck and mash the gas and note how much distace it took for the slipper to grab. Loosen the nut for more slippage, tighten for less. Too tight and you can break trans components,gears, or worst case motor damage.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by LessthanMetal View Post
    It's either gear mesh or the idler gear.

    Take your spur gear off, then check your diff action (port wheel forward, starboard wheel should spin aft). If that sounds/feels good then spin port and starboard wheels forward , if that sounds/feels good then spin aft. If that sounds/feels good, then your idler gear should be good along with your planetary gears in your diff and the diff its self. The layshaft gear and shaft should move when both wheels go in the same direction or when one wheel is held and the other wheel is spun. Again if that sounds/feels good then your layshaft gear and shaft are good.

    If its none of those then its gear mesh. New gears are slightly bigger than worn ones and you have to move the motor to compensate gear wear. First thing with the slipper off still. Loosen the two motor mounting screws behind the pinion gear, then move motor aft.

    Then its onto the slipper, first thing your going to want to do is remove the shine from the friction pads. To do that use a razor blade and scrape the shine off, with out digging into the pad. Then you'll want to resurface your friction plate, use a high number grit sand paper (the higher the better). Put the sand paper on a hard flat surface. Wet the paper with water. Then in a circular motion, sand the friction plate till the shine is gone and you have an even surface.

    Then reassemble. Pin, friction plate mount, friction plate, friction pad/hub/bearing/spur assembly, spring, and lock-nut. In that order.

    Tighten down lock nut all the way then loosen 2-3 turns as a starting point.

    Next is your gear mesh. You want to get the gears as close as possible without them binding, slight play is ok. I don't do the paper method because its too loose. After you get the motor retightened down. Take your truck and push it on the ground. If everything seems ok install your fully charged battery.

    Slipper adjustment. Should be done on surface you are running on. I'm going to use carpet because thats what im racing on now....

    Turn your transmitter on.

    Holding truck off ground, turn receiver on. Place truck in front of you. Place a foot infront of the truck and apply power for a second or two, this seats the pads better.

    Push the truck and mash the gas and note how much distace it took for the slipper to grab. Loosen the nut for more slippage, tighten for less. Too tight and you can break trans components,gears, or worst case motor damage.
    Ok thanks, I'll work on it this evening. Now that I think about it when I was tightening the nut the first yesterday I heard a pop, but I pulled everything back off and ran it without the gears on it and it seemed to run fine. I'm wondering if the spur gear is lined up correct.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    If you heard a pop while over tightening it, make sure you did not break the clutch cross pin, or crack the clutch back plate.
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rag6 View Post
    If you heard a pop while over tightening it, make sure you did not break the clutch cross pin, or crack the clutch back plate.
    I checked everything tonight, loosened the nut another quarter turn made sure me pinion gear was even with the gear and it seems to be fine now. Thanks for the help guys.

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