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  1. #1
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    Golden Horizon Hubs

    So My son ended up putting his truck under the backtire of the mail mans truck today, crushed the front carrier and wheel. I got the GH hubs from my local hobby shop. Install was pretty easy, but when I tighten up the wheels, they do not turn freely if tightened all the way. The back wheels with original hubs are fine. Anyone have this happen to them? I'm thinking maybe its hitting the adjusters, I tightened them down to where the balls move but aren't notchy, maybe I need to tighten down more?

  2. #2
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    do you mean turn L-R or rotate?
    are the pins installed under the hexes?
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    do you mean turn L-R or rotate?
    are the pins installed under the hexes?
    Rotate. The pins are in for sure.

    It seems the hubs are going against the carrier when tightened. On one with the wheel off, I can hold the shaft and push in the hub and make it bind. I dont really think the carriers are defective, but the plastic ones had no issue.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-26-2013 at 09:11 AM. Reason: merge

  4. #4
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    strange. you just have to look "upstream" for something binding in the drive line. Verify the Diff still spins free with no axles and if so, work outward till you find the culprit - maybe a damaged half shaft (CVD?)

    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    It seems the hubs are going against the carrier when tightened. On one with the wheel off, I can hold the shaft and push in the hub and make it bind. I dont really think the carriers are defective, but the plastic ones had no issue.

    Check bearings, strange though if on both sides
    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-26-2013 at 09:11 AM. Reason: merge
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  5. #5
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    bearings seem fine, its like the hub is pushing in too far and rubbing the carrier when tightened down. but the plastic ones had no problem, I just replaced them earlier. I just don't know if everyone has this problem and just doesn't torque the wheels down super tight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    bearings seem fine, its like the hub is pushing in too far and rubbing the carrier when tightened down. but the plastic ones had no problem, I just replaced them earlier. I just don't know if everyone has this problem and just doesn't torque the wheels down super tight.
    Never heard of that. The inner bearings should take that load. Maybe the bearing bores were not machined to the right depth
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    Never heard of that. The inner bearings should take that load. Maybe the bearing bores were not machined to the right depth
    I don't know if I should take it back to the shop where I bought it from and let them take a look and possibly exchange them, the bearings seem to seat fine and they are spinning okay if I loosen the nuts a bit, but then i'm worried they will fall off.

  8. #8
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    The white plastic pillow ballcaps need to be adjusted at the right spot for free movement.
    Tighten all the way n back off a bit at a time til no binding

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    The wheels will fall off, this is unacceptable. Are you running plastic hexes?
    are they rubbing the outside of the carrier when tightened?

    Quote Originally Posted by Daddykins View Post
    The white plastic pillow ballcaps need to be adjusted at the right spot for free movement.
    Tighten all the way n back off a bit at a time til no binding
    he has wheel rotation issues, not suspension binding
    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-26-2013 at 09:11 AM. Reason: merge
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  10. #10
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    My bad...
    Check the bearings again like photon post said.

    On one set I got I had to really push the bearing in there. Cos of the anodizing.
    One set had GH stamped on and the other didn't with a different shade.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daddykins View Post
    On one set I got I had to really push the bearing in there. Cos of the anodizing.
    One set had GH stamped on and the other didn't with a different shade.
    I'd rather they fit snug anytime instead of loose like mine. This alone accounts for 70 percent of my wheel "slop"
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

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    The bearings just slide in. I tried a couple shims on the back side of the axle, in between the bearings, right behind the pin, and no matter what, if I crank it down, the wheel binds, both sides exactly the same. Loosen up the nut and it's okay, but I'm worried the nuts will just constantly loosen up.

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    did you check the hexes?
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    did you check the hexes?
    Yes, it appears to bind from the back end where the axle slides into the hub. It locks up solid. when I took the wheels off and pulled the hub off, if I pull on the shaft, I can make it get hard to turn so I don't think the hexes are the issue.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    Yes, it appears to bind from the back end where the axle slides into the hub. It locks up solid. when I took the wheels off and pulled the hub off, if I pull on the shaft, I can make it get hard to turn so I don't think the hexes are the issue.
    are you running CVDs? Is that (stupid) O-ring binding on the carrier ID?
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    are you running CVDs? Is that (stupid) O-ring binding on the carrier ID?
    actually its a summit, and I have been replacing the summit axles as they break so its running 1 merv and one summit axle up front, same thing for the rear now. Both are binding the same in the front while the rear with the plastic carriers and the front until switching to these hubs had no problem.

    I feel like the back bearing goes in and then there is a little lip that maybe its binding on, but even with 2 shims on the axle before going into the bearing, it was still doing it, and then it started tightening up when I put the pin and hex on from the extra shims. Wasn't spinning as smoothly with the wheel off I mean when I had the shims back there.

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    If you have a caliper, compare the dimensions (ID and depth) between the plastic and aluminum carriers.
    can you pinpoint exactly where it's rubbing?
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    If you have a caliper, compare the dimensions (ID and depth) between the plastic and aluminum carriers.
    can you pinpoint exactly where it's rubbing?
    I did have a caliper, but its not digital and I have no idea where it is at this point. Its hard to tell honestly, it appears to tighten up in back of the large bearing. Like the shaft it not riding on the bearing like it should or something. Like I said, I tried a bunch of shims to try and figure it out, but no luck.

  19. #19
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    well, you know the bearing fits on the stub axle because it's been on there before. If the bearing bore was too deep it might cause the plastic u-joint of the axle to rub on the carrier when pulled outward (or nut tightened) Thats all I can think of
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    well, you know the bearing fits on the stub axle because it's been on there before. If the bearing bore was too deep it might cause the plastic u-joint of the axle to rub on the carrier when pulled outward (or nut tightened) Thats all I can think of
    yea, I have no idea, I just put the plastic carrier on to check and it spins as free as can be torqued all the way down. I put two shims between the carrier and the big bearing and still its locked solid. I guess I'll take it back tomorrow and either exchange them for other hubs, I'll check them in store first or I'll get the plastic hubs and the traxxas screw in pivot ball retainers and be done with it. My store sells the GH hubs cheap, well silver anyway, blue is 5 bucks more, can't figure that out, but I figured I'd try them out since the hub got destroyed today.

  21. #21
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    Don't waste your time with those Traxxas screw in things they pop out because there are no threads in the plastic carrier, they just cut about one eighth of a thread - not enough to hold em in on hard impacts

    good luck
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    Don't waste your time with those Traxxas screw in things they pop out because there are no threads in the plastic carrier, they just cut about one eighth of a thread - not enough to hold em in on hard impacts

    good luck
    well they have at least one other set of GH hubs, actually 3 other sets if you count the blue ones so hopefully they will exchange for one that works.

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    I'd take the whole truck so they can see and make sure what ever you get is not the same
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    I'd take the whole truck so they can see and make sure what ever you get is not the same
    Yes I am, I have one wheel with the pivot balls unscrewed so I can show them very easily that its binding up, and I will try the new hubs in the store before walking out.

    So I went back today and they saw they were binding, they spent about 30 minutes trying to get them unbound and then we tried another pair from the wall, they bound up too. So in the end I ended up with the plastic carriers with the traxxas screw in retainers. Maybe not the best but my sons wheels spin. As an added bonus I got 2 spare carriers now and all 4 wheels are much more slop free than before.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-26-2013 at 09:12 AM. Reason: meege

  25. #25
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    Well, that sux. I'd put a drop of CA glue in each side of the carrier once you get em adjusted right (in the little holes where the tabs used to go) that will help hold em in better and keep 'em from backing out.
    I'm betting if you were running CVDs there would be no problem but it still seems strange. Oh well.
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  26. #26
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    If merv and summit shafts do it, I can't imagine cvds would be any different. I think they gota bad batch there since no one else s seems to have a problem. Oh they opened up a set of aluminum hexes and they bound up too

  27. #27
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    I'm having the exact same problem with my gh carriers. Kinda sucks for twenty dollars a set and they don't work.
    Its a Summit thing, you wouldn't understand.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeler313 View Post
    I'm having the exact same problem with my gh carriers. Kinda sucks for twenty dollars a set and they don't work.
    I paid 14 for them and really hoped they would work.

  29. #29
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    I'm gonna attempt to get a hold of gh tomorrow, maybe they know of the problem and will replace them for us. Is anyone else having these problems?
    Its a Summit thing, you wouldn't understand.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeler313 View Post
    I'm gonna attempt to get a hold of gh tomorrow, maybe they know of the problem and will replace them for us. Is anyone else having these problems?
    Your dealer won't help you?
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by photon_trap View Post
    Your dealer won't help you?
    My dealer took them back, but I was lucky that it was my local hobby store, i'm betting most people are ordering them online which is more of a hassle, but even so, besides refunding, what is the dealer going to do? It would be nice to have a part that works. Too late for me at this point, but at least others should be able to get it and have it work for them.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
    My dealer took them back, but I was lucky that it was my local hobby store, i'm betting most people are ordering them online which is more of a hassle, but even so, besides refunding, what is the dealer going to do? It would be nice to have a part that works. Too late for me at this point, but at least others should be able to get it and have it work for them.
    Yea, I hear ya. Having to pay return shipping on a bad product is WRONG.
    There are lots of ways to do that. Most are wrong.

  33. #33
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    I tried GH carriers but they were machined wrong so the bearing wouldn't even go in. I went with gpm then and they work a lot better.

    lipo power!!!!!
    Whatever you are, be a good one.

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