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  1. #681
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    Thanks Man!

    You should see the Associated TC6.1 World's Car I'm working on. That is Pure Sax Never before have I seen so many parts for a RC model!! It's like all the racers say, they make them this way so we have excuses to why we lost It's been a very enjoyable build so far, almost addicting... I can see me wanting to build another one ASAP

    Try removing the Wing, that creates speed drag

  2. #682
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    Viper, I have to tell you that I just found this thread last night(pretty new to the forum) and I stayed up till 3am reading the whole post. Your work and attention to detail as mentioned by many before is awesome. Congrats on the build! At the moment the only traxxas vehicle I have is a Stampede but after reading this thread I already ordered a rally chassis to start my roller. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind.

    1. I'm thinking of going with the Tekno center driveshaft b/c in my P4de the center driveshaft seems to have some play. What do you think?
    2. What made you choose the 2650kv motor over the 2200 or others?

  3. #683
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    Where did you get the shocks? I can't find the 90mm anywhere. Wanted to use them on my rusty
    Play Hard, Have fun!

  4. #684
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leans View Post
    Viper, I have to tell you that I just found this thread last night(pretty new to the forum) and I stayed up till 3am reading the whole post. Your work and attention to detail as mentioned by many before is awesome. Congrats on the build! At the moment the only traxxas vehicle I have is a Stampede but after reading this thread I already ordered a rally chassis to start my roller. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind.

    1. I'm thinking of going with the Tekno center driveshaft b/c in my P4de the center driveshaft seems to have some play. What do you think?
    2. What made you choose the 2650kv motor over the 2200 or others?
    I correct myself, I went back and saw that you actually did use the tekno driveshaft.

  5. #685
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leans View Post
    Viper, I have to tell you that I just found this thread last night(pretty new to the forum) and I stayed up till 3am reading the whole post. Your work and attention to detail as mentioned by many before is awesome. Congrats on the build! At the moment the only traxxas vehicle I have is a Stampede but after reading this thread I already ordered a rally chassis to start my roller. I have a couple of questions if you don't mind.

    1. I'm thinking of going with the Tekno center driveshaft b/c in my P4de the center driveshaft seems to have some play. What do you think?
    2. What made you choose the 2650kv motor over the 2200 or others?

    Hey Leans! Thanks for taking the time to go through my the thread and commenting That should be a nice project converting your Stamp over to a Rally.

    1. I think the Tekno BB is a nice unit... I'm not sure I would buy another one as I think the OEM one is fine, inexpensive to replace should you bend it. The Tekno does require you dremel the front underside of the chassis to allow the yoke to clear, also you have to unbolt the rear yoke from the rear dear to remove it, not a big deal, but those are just some characteristics. Mine has slight sipping rope action at full speed, so it may be vibrating in the yokes or it may be bent, I have not checked it out yet, but should. Most people go the Tekno route to eliminate bends of the OEM and strengthen the chassis, however I think a VG chassis brace is better at this as it is designed first and foremost to be a chassis brace to strengthen the assembly. The Teknos need to be a drive shaft first and a chassis stiffener second. Add to that you can replace about 4 OEM shafts for the price of the Teknos, so you can see where I going with this. However in the end if you think it's still a cool piece to get for your rig, then that's reason good enough

    2. I went with the 2650kv as I knew I wanted to primarily run 4s packs. The higher KV gets the speed and performance I was wanting with out having to go to a 5s or 6s pack. No other reason, other than maybe the smaller form factor as well. I may add a 2200 to my collection one day just to play with, but for now the 2650 matches what I have and desire.

    Hope that helps.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dawgg60 View Post
    Where did you get the shocks? I can't find the 90mm anywhere. Wanted to use them on my rusty
    I'm not sure I understand this question. I'm running 2 different sets of shocks on the 2 Rally chassis here.

    1. Rally-1, the GT8 car is using E-Revo GTR shocks I got those from dollarhobbyz



    http://www.dollarhobbyz.com/traxxas/...ar-shocks.html


    2. Rally-2, the rally version is using Proline Prospec shocks which I purchased
    off ebay.



    http://prolineracing.com/performance...c-shocks-rear/


    Let me know if you need more assistance with this, I would be happy to help.

  6. #686
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    Hey Leans! Thanks for taking the time to go through my the thread and commenting That should be a nice project converting your Stamp over to a Rally.

    1. I think the Tekno BB is a nice unit... I'm not sure I would buy another one as I think the OEM one is fine, inexpensive to replace should you bend it. The Tekno does require you dremel the front underside of the chassis to allow the yoke to clear, also you have to unbolt the rear yoke from the rear dear to remove it, not a big deal, but those are just some characteristics. Mine has slight sipping rope action at full speed, so it may be vibrating in the yokes or it may be bent, I have not checked it out yet, but should. Most people go the Tekno route to eliminate bends of the OEM and strengthen the chassis, however I think a VG chassis brace is better at this as it is designed first and foremost to be a chassis brace to strengthen the assembly. The Teknos need to be a drive shaft first and a chassis stiffener second. Add to that you can replace about 4 OEM shafts for the price of the Teknos, so you can see where I going with this. However in the end if you think it's still a cool piece to get for your rig, then that's reason good enough

    2. I went with the 2650kv as I knew I wanted to primarily run 4s packs. The higher KV gets the speed and performance I was wanting with out having to go to a 5s or 6s pack. No other reason, other than maybe the smaller form factor as well. I may add a 2200 to my collection one day just to play with, but for now the 2650 matches what I have and desire.
    Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response. Your thread will be very helpful during my build! I am actually keeping my P4de as is and I'm going to start a rally build. I like the direction you went with the 1st Rally build so I will probably try something like that out. What shock oil are you running on those e-revo gtr shocks?

  7. #687
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    Ahh, My mistake, I thought you were converting. Good to hear then you are adding to your collection.

    In the Rally-1 GT8 car with the GTR shocks I'm running Losi 70wt oil. This is because I drilled the piston disk to a custom size and I needed to increase the damping. I may need to do some further adjustments. I picked up a few more piston disks and will try some different sized holes yet.

    The E-Revo GTRs come with a very small hole and the shocks are really over damped to be like rocks, but they handled well in spite of it. What I did makes the car smoother in bumps, but it does not corner as well as the rock shocks in my estimation. If I really raced the car, proof would be in the track time, but I only bash it so this is an estimation, compared to my other cars.

  8. #688
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    Ahh, My mistake, I thought you were converting. Good to hear then you are adding to your collection.

    In the Rally-1 GT8 car with the GTR shocks I'm running Losi 70wt oil. This is because I drilled the piston disk to a custom size and I needed to increase the damping. I may need to do some further adjustments. I picked up a few more piston disks and will try some different sized holes yet.

    The E-Revo GTRs come with a very small hole and the shocks are really over damped to be like rocks, but they handled well in spite of it. What I did makes the car smoother in bumps, but it does not corner as well as the rock shocks in my estimation. If I really raced the car, proof would be in the track time, but I only bash it so this is an estimation, compared to my other cars.
    Thanks once again for some great insight. I am still deciding what shocks to go with but these look pretty good.

  9. #689
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    Great, have fun with it! You can't go wrong with Traxxas GTR's. I would take them over any available shock out there for this platform, even over the Prolines....


    I haven't been working so much on the 1/8 cars or Ultimate, however I have been busy getting set up for 1/10 Touring Car Club Racing. I hope to get out bashing the Traxxas cars real soon.... I need to get the Rally GT8 handling better. The XO-1, I have not found a suitable place to open her up on yet. I'm waiting for a nice stretch of newly paved open road with no traffic, not yet opened to the public. It would just be irresponsible of me to run it down a main traffic road. Thanks for checking in!

    Last edited by ViperZ; 08-23-2014 at 10:23 AM.

  10. #690
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    The rally-2 looks amazing in the picture This hobby always keeps you busy doesn't it? lol
    Slash 4x4, Rusty VXL(project), Slash 2wd(project).

  11. #691
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    Viperz since I value your opinion so much. I need your advice on handling tune also. For the very first time I went to a structured but very open and easy going race. Parking lot setup which they sprayed with grape soda.
    So it was 1/8 scale where 90% had the kyosho gt-8.
    The only requirement they had was that we run sweep tires.
    Now I have the traxxas rally of course now as a GT8.
    Proline a arms
    Xo-1 undercarriage
    Xo-1 driveshafts
    Xo-1 shocks
    Etc. Not much different than yours or the other master Hum...
    I couldn't hold a line like they could. Of course skill is a big part and practice, I get that. But I'm not horrible either and when I thought I was smooth enough I should of held the line and hit my apex I struggled.
    So I suspect my alignments are off. What caster/camber angles do you run?
    What is the ideal ground clearance?
    I suspect I'm higher than I should be.
    I also noticed they had a wider track than I did possible as much as an inch. Is there anything I can do to compete? Or am I peeing into the wind?
    I'm sorry one more thing I have the Xo-1 shocktowers. What holes should I use?



    Last edited by neows6; 08-23-2014 at 08:11 PM.

  12. #692
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean1214 View Post
    The rally-2 looks amazing in the picture This hobby always keeps you busy doesn't it? lol
    It does standout doesn't it?


    Hey Neo, Thanks! I don't race my 1/8ths only the 1/10ths so you actually have more experience there than me. However all I've read, it's not impossible to keep up to the other GT8 cars, but it will take a bit of work on your part. Out of the box, my X3 handles much better than my GT8, thus I'm working to get the GT8 to handle as good, or close to.

    Ground clearance, lower is better as this is your CG of the car and is a key characteristic of the handling of the car. Most out of the box GT8's are heavier, with all the CGs set very low, thus they carry less transfer of weight during cornering. It would seem with the extra chassis parts you've added you have this covered. My GT8 certainly could be lower, my X3 is about 15mm off the ground, my Rally GT8 is about 20mm.

    For alignment settings, I have my GT8 set up to values of 0 degrees front camber, and -1.5 negative for the rear. Caster is what ever the stock caster blocks of the Traxxas is, I suspect ~10 degrees. I'm running 1 degree toe out on the front.

    Track width, if you already have the Protrac arms, that's about the limit of adding any more width, unless you get higher offset wheels. With out seeing of feeling how the car is responding, it's hard to tell if you need more or less width. I suspect its good as is.

    Shock tower position is determined more by the available traction of the surface you are running on, generally inward makes the shock softer, as a rule the more traction you have, the more outboard you move the shocks.

    I'm trying to firm up my suspension, and minimize the traction roll I'm now getting since I softened the shocks up.


    You are on the right track, here is a helpful guide:

    http://www.competitionx.com/rc-racing/rc-tuning-guide/
    Last edited by ViperZ; 08-24-2014 at 07:55 AM.

  13. #693
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    Thanks so much. I realize I'm starting from behind with my Frankenstein of a car but I'm not looking to win races just have consistent fun.
    So right off the bat I'm way too high I'm almost 26 mm. I will go down to 20 first.
    So after reading the link you provided. The next steps are.
    1. your car is loose (oversteer), you could either add a degree of rear Camber.
    2. Using only the front Anti-Roll Bar will decrease front chassis roll, giving the feeling of more rear traction, or less front bite (less steering). So I will decrease my rear anti roll bar tension. I incorrectly strengthened it yesterday.
    3. Laying the rear shock down will increase traction, but decrease damping
    4. Toe In will also stabilize the car under acceleration. No more than 1deg.
    5. A shorter Camber Link will result in more Camber change, or a decrease in traction but more stability. This one has me a little confused but you said the same so I will go with it.

    So I'll do all this things and it will probably push under steer lol. But hey that's half the fun.
    Thanks again!

  14. #694
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    By the way sorry for hijacking uour thread.

  15. #695
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    No worries, this thread is meant to be interactive

    Be sure to post back with how it works out or if you come up with something that works well

  16. #696
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    Will do so far I notice a huge difference, but the true test will be this Saturday

  17. #697
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    I'm considering (quite seriously) the purchase of XO-1 tunnels, rear skid, shock towers, front splitter mount and bumper.
    All these thing would be for another GT8 build from my platinum (speed is the only fun I have with the 4wd), I'm wondering how much of a difference they make.
    I thought you'd be the gentleman to ask Viper.
    More I think about it might as well get the cvds, front/rear carriers & c blocks, 17mm adapters and another set of XO-1 diffs while I'm at it, cheaper then building them myself.
    Not as much fun, but cheaper.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  18. #698
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    Hey Billy, I'm not sure I'm the person to answer that as I have not added the tunnels or front splitters to my Rally's. Humayrayakongkinaon or Neows6 would know better as they have done it and can provide comparative differences.

    Sounds like a great build brewing

  19. #699
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    I'm by no means a racer but I play around parking lot and kinda picture that there's a course track and my impression with the car is a bit challenging at the corner exit maybe with all the dust/debris but it turns very sharp with some drifting (again lots of dust lol). My toe set up front is 1 degree out and rear 1.5 degree in, shock oil 50 front, 45 rear, revo springs blue dot front, silver dot rear and I open up my piston shocks to 1/16mm holes on all four. With the XO-1 diffuser/splitters the chassis stand about half an inch.
    humay has left the building, peace.

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    So this may help others I'm reposting my updates and I tried these things based on ViperZ suggestions and the e link he provided.
    For the most part my major issue was oversteering. I was good under breaking. When I would apply throttle as gingerly as I could it was difficult to keep from spinning out
    Then on long sweeping curves I couldn't hold the line while accelerating.
    1. Ride height I was at 26 mm. I lowered to 17mm.
    2. Rear Camber. car is loose (oversteer), add a degree of rear negative Camber.
    3. Rollbar. Using only the front Anti-Roll Bar will decrease front chassis roll, giving the feeling of more rear traction, or less front bite (less steering). I decreased my rear anti roll bar tension.
    4. Shock tower shock alignment. Laying the rear shock down will increase traction, but decrease damping. In moved my rear shock upper hole inboard one hole and outboard one hole on the lower. This also helped my ride height. And I believe this made the biggest difference.
    4. Toe In will also stabilize the car under acceleration. No more than 1deg. This issue under acceleration is exactly what I felt my problem was.
    5. A shorter Camber Link will result in more Camber change, or a decrease in traction but more stability. This one I'm still trying to figure out best.

    Overall already just bashing today it seems much better. Will test it next Saturday at the parking lot track

  21. #701
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    Thanks fellas, I'm nearly done moving things to the winter home and have the itch to start a new build.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  22. #702
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    Way to be a quick study Neows6! Good luck with the setup on your next outing!

    Billy, winter home? You actually move to a place where there is winter? Here in Saskatchewan, our homes are winter homes for 8 months of the year, we move to summer homes

  23. #703
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post
    Way to be a quick study Neows6! Good luck with the setup on your next outing!

    Billy, winter home? You actually move to a place where there is winter? Here in Saskatchewan, our homes are winter homes for 8 months of the year, we move to summer homes
    LOL, We move in the winter lol, not to the winter, perhaps away from winter home is more appropriate.
    I couldn't imagine eight months of cold. Last winter in upper Mi was a year to forget, I'm certain it was worse for you fellas.
    Still cold here but not as bad as the great white north.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  24. #704
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    Plus you have to use that dam metric system. Lol.
    Thanks ViperZ but I admit before marriage I use to do a little SCCA racing in my 2000 ws6 trans am. And in general a racing fan so the concepts weren't entirely new. Just recessed somewhere in the back of my head.
    Where the wife wishes they stayed.

  25. #705
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    LOL, We move in the winter lol, not to the winter, perhaps away from winter home is more appropriate.
    I couldn't imagine eight months of cold. Last winter in upper Mi was a year to forget, I'm certain it was worse for you fellas.
    Still cold here but not as bad as the great white north.
    Ha, Ha Billy, I know what you meant, I was just having a bit of fun with you! Lucky Man!

    I hope one day when I retire I can move to a warmer climate like Vancouver Island, or the Interior of BC.


    Quote Originally Posted by neows6 View Post
    Plus you have to use that dam metric system. Lol.
    Thanks ViperZ but I admit before marriage I use to do a little SCCA racing in my 2000 ws6 trans am. And in general a racing fan so the concepts weren't entirely new. Just recessed somewhere in the back of my head.
    Where the wife wishes they stayed.
    Yeah, it's great how things like that are directly commutable and transferable! Nice that you AutoX'ed you WS6, it must have been a tire blistering machine! I AutoX my 1:1 cars or take it to the local speed way when I get the chance, however this year the SCCA could not secure the same location for racing, so there was no AutoX this year

  26. #706
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    Yup physics is physics. Just moving the decimal point.
    That's too bad another demerit for living up in USA little brother. Just kidding you.
    Yeah it was great did mostly parking lot racing at Giants Stadium in New Jersey. But did get to do Lime Rock, Watkins Glen and Pocono.
    I ported the heads myself and had after market intake and exhaust. I pulled 395 HP on the dyno at the rear wheels.
    Being that it was a Fbody which means flexible in a bad way I also had frame stiffeners welded in.
    I now drive a 1/1 scale electric. Far cry from the ramair but I still love my Chevy Volt.
    I'm surprised more rc'ers don't drive full scale electric cars honestly.

  27. #707
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    Just ordered two sets of ofna #86505's for the new build and the old scalpel.
    The XO-1 rubber is fine but I want a lower profile as well as ride height.
    Also wanted the spoke rim.
    Hope these do the trick or sweeps will be next.
    Thought about a PF8 body but after seeing the options I think I'll wait a bit on that decision.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  28. #708
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    So Viper what are your favorite 1/8th on road tires so far? Now that I saw DE racing makes an sc wheel with a 17mm hex It'd be convenient for me to be able to run on and off road with only having one truck.
    Slash 4x4, Rusty VXL(project), Slash 2wd(project).

  29. #709
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    Very lucky to be able to run at hose great courses Neows6!


    Those are different wheels Billy


    Sean, so far I like the Sweeps, but the Ofnas seem nice too.

  30. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by ViperZ View Post




    No, tires and wheels are Ofna. I think the wheels are the right stance to the body, in that they don't get in the way with rubbing, allowing the body to sit lower and not scrubbing speed from the hard, fast corning action. This is typical of most competition on road cars. Function before form

    The ones on the Gulf car, while hellaflush, look great, but rub like heck... So I have to jack up the body before running. I'm not a fan of that.
    I read through you whole post and it inspired me to buy a rally and do a gt8 conversion! I have to say you have a lot of talent. I hope mine comes out as good as yours did. You mentioned having to raise the body up before driving because it rubs the tires. Could that be fixed by using wheels or adapters with less offset or would it still rub?

  31. #711
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    any updates with the slash 4x4 ViperZ ??
    | Slash 4x4 | Stampede 4x4 | E-Revo BL | RPM |

  32. #712
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    I just got my Ultimate and noticed a good deal of rear toe-in. Has anyone tried to change that during their conversion to a GT car?

  33. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitsvancouver View Post
    I just got my Ultimate and noticed a good deal of rear toe-in. Has anyone tried to change that during their conversion to a GT car?
    Just found out the other day myself.
    The aluminum rear carriers on the ultimate have 1.5 toe, the rear a arms have 2.5, 2.5+ 1.5=4.
    It comes with 4 all together or switch them side to side 2.5-1.5=1.
    They are also marked L/R so its easier to tell where your at.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  34. #714
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    if I'm understanding how to set your car up correctly, more toe in (4) for straight line stability, and less reat toe in (1) for better cornering... yeah?

  35. #715
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    Quote Originally Posted by natrix500 View Post
    if I'm understanding how to set your car up correctly, more toe in (4) for straight line stability, and less reat toe in (1) for better cornering... yeah?
    More rear toe will help with handling in most any situation.
    Less rear toe gives more top speed but removes stability, the truck can spin out much easier.
    Built Ford Tuff With Chevy Stuff.

  36. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by billy-bones View Post
    More rear toe will help with handling in most any situation.
    Less rear toe gives more top speed but removes stability, the truck can spin out much easier.
    Does anyone know what toe-in GT cars use? Has anyone compared 4 degrees against 1 degree to see if there is a noticeable difference?

  37. #717
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    Quote Originally Posted by kitsvancouver View Post
    Does anyone know what toe-in GT cars use? Has anyone compared 4 degrees against 1 degree to see if there is a noticeable difference?
    Typically in 1/10 Touring Car racing, the less Rear Toe in you can get away with, the better, depending on the surface and in moderation. Rear tow in is required to maintain stability, however decreasing it from a starting point of say, 3 degree's will make the car feel like its pivoting around the corner faster, in creasing it will give more grip.

    A new advancement in TC design is the Active Rear Suspension (ARS), it allows you to adjust the rear toe in amount, and actively changes the toe-in characteristics as the car rolls around the corner.

    Here is a TC6.2 where the front steering blocks have been used in the back as well to create a ARS set-up. I have not made one yet but will soon.



    Most new models of TC cars will be coming out with these for the 2015 season.

    I can't remember what the OEM Slash/Rally ones are ~2 degrees? I know on my GT8 I'm using 1.5 blocks in the back.

  38. #718
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    You've had a lot of people demanding updates on your slash thread. Stay tuned because I'm having big updates on the way around mid-december.
    Slash 4x4, Rusty VXL(project), Slash 2wd(project).

  39. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by sean1214 View Post
    You've had a lot of people demanding updates on your slash thread. Stay tuned because I'm having big updates on the way around mid-december.
    Ha, Thanks Sean.. I haven't done anything with my TRX's, they've been neglected, but I should get back on the horse

    Great to hear you have a plan in the works! I'll look forward to it.

    For the 2 Rallys here, I plan to retune the GT-8 suspension, and for Rally 2, I'll paint up a new body and make it even more Rally car Someday...

    The 1/10 Touring Racing has kept me engaged with my free time. Its been really fun, but I look forward to tweaking and bashing the TRX cars again.






    Wait, I did sort of work on a TRX car, I test fitted a body for my XO-1



    Last edited by ViperZ; 11-02-2014 at 08:27 AM.

  40. #720
    RC Turnbuckle Jr.
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    7,262
    Nice!!! Finally got a chance to fit the C6-R, that thing looks massive compare to 1/10 and the fact that the 1/10 at the background makes it even smaller
    humay has left the building, peace.

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