It's been a while since I've been on here, I was bashing my beast of a revo 3.3 back then the best revo I've seen imo lol but hey it was mine. I was also building a sla2sh is that how we say slash 2wd here? Yh I was building one of those with proline parts. But then I sold the slash tired of it being 2wd. I should have sold the revo then too but NO like twit I dumped another $500 into it in parts I wanted get this had it 6 months built and never used it once. What a waste the noise was the downside but it was the best rc I've had and I was just about to put the lrp 32 into then an offer came in at $350 for the roller so I reluctantly accepted.
SO..... I was hunting my next traxxas beast an rc that is very popular and has more options and upgrades avaliable than any other rc around. Which led me to the slash 4x4 but **** they cost a fortune in England. £450 ish I think or $700 that's seriously high. So I checked the other variations of the 1/10 4x4 cars.
First I found the pede 4x4 xl5 edition new rtr for £200 (good deal)
Then I found the vxl 4x4 pede for £280-300 I think could be wrong.
Then I found the chassis everything I wanted and a price that's cheaper than usa, the traxxas rally vxl lcg for the awesome cost of £240 shipped all in. From Germany in England the rally rtr is £350 so I'm very happy with that. The bonus is I received a green one Yaay.
Straight away that day I stripped it down to dunk and dye that grey nastiness from it. Which is now black with a hint of navy blue.
That annoyed me tbh because all my other ritt dye jobs came out black with a hint of copper which I loved. I'm not liking the navy blue so much tho lol. It looks common to lcg chassis after dye too. I only dye my rcs for 30 min or so left it boiled water. I don't use the cooker but I do pre soak my chassis to soften it up. It worked excellent every time until this blue tint one. But I followed a guy who boiled it on the hob for 3hrs and still had blue hints. So I think the lcg will have blue regardless.
Anyone else tried it and got it truly blacked out.
(I thought traxxas realised we DO NOT LIKE grey plastics )
Since then I've removed some traxxas stickers from the green shell added afew other stickers. Brought (by mistake ) a full set of xo1 shocks. I'll see if I can use them at some point speed mayb. Then a set of trencher sc tires for when I make it into the slash.
That's everything about me and traxxas so far lol.
I wanted the rally Bcos it's cheap and is still the slash 4x4 so I plan to get any parts so eventually I can just convert to whichever rc I want when I want.
Road basher drifter hooning.
Sometime in the future a speed machine and also back slash too.
But I'm just trying to find people involved with the rally right now so I can learn faster, uk forum I use is dry in the trx rally department.
I'm planning to but not dead set on buying a castle 3800kv combo (it's cheap ) then ill sell the esc to fund a hobbywing sc8. But first I need to sell the Std vxl I didn't even bother running once after reading it's a bad combo. That's my 1/10 plans.
But sooner or later I will want to put a 2650kv or 2700kv motor in to it that is fast and fire off the line with just a 3s esc.
I'm new to brushless I've had a short flirt with it but none the wiser so this is it for my I'm starting again and want to do it properly this time.
Thank you for reading I would appreciate all you rally fans posting your favourite mods , upgrades and tips ect.
This is just an intro tho buy I'm sure I'll be posting direct questions soon.
PS. Atm my focus is on the rally variant I want to spec that up to be good on tarmac and grass. Beef it up some. Then get the slash stuff sorted.
I don't want one rally mod that will stop a slash mod vice versa. Sway bars I think is one unless ther trimmed. I have a brand new rally so don't fancy hacking at it yet lol.
I love my Rally.
Out of the box on 2s, it was silly fast on pavement...you can actually hear the tires scream. After my initial pavement bashing session I went down to my local dirt track. I shimmed up the springs a bit with spacers and ran four 5000mah packs running laps with the short course trucks. If it wasn't for the rally body, it would have fit right in. I beat as many trucks as I lost to.
The Velineon motor and ESC, while not my favorite setup, does the job well. I plan on throwing in a Castle 3800kv next week and see how it compares. I'll let you know. I really want to run a Castle ESC for punch control and the ability to change up the motor timing.
So far, I honestly haven't done much to mine. I found the stock progressive springs in front to be way too stiff for my liking. They feel decent on the street, but for dirt and jumping I went with softer ones (blue ones from a Traxxas buggy I think). I did pick up an anti sway bar kit the other day...I really like it. Helps plant the car in dirt and keep it from rolling all over like a truck. Now I head for a corner, tap the break, cut the wheel, punch it and drift in proper rally style around hairpins. It's tricky, but once you get it down its so much fun.
I don't really have a problem with the gray chassis...at least not enough of one to go to the trouble of dyeing it. To each his own though.
The tires are a little hard, but they kind of add to it's personality. I probably couldn't pull off my dirt drifting if I had proper sct tires on there. On pavement they provide enough traction to get going, but will lose grip on command if you want to kick the tail out.
The bumper is definitely street car. It was bothersome at the track jumping around with the Slashes. If you happen to land a jump a little too nose down it likes to catch in the dirt and stick, thus turning your car into a lawn dart. I plan on getting and modifying a Slash bumper for my short course adventures.
Things I am for sure upgrading.
Motor mount, as with all Slash you probably want an aluminum one from King Headz or STRC.
Shocks, though I don't think the stock ones are that bad...I'm not a fan of the springs.
Chassis brace, I think this is a must for any LCG SLash/Rally. I like the VG Racing one.
Center Diff, I'm going to try one of these out. I feel like she breaks traction a bit too easy with the slipper clutch.
Sway bar, depends on the person, but I like soft springs all around so anti sway bars really help out the rolling.
Servo, I always upgrade to a mean Savox in everything I own. I keep the stock servos for spares.
I might upgrade to an M6 driveshaft setup (from the Xo supercar) down the road...depends on how I feel when I finally kill a driveshaft.
If you do go more for a street car look check out some of the 1/8th buggy wheels people have been mounting up, some of them look very slick.
Last edited by elDax; 04-09-2015 at 10:28 PM.
Sounds good! What esc will you be going with?
Whatever you are, be a good one.
Sidewinder 3. Cheap, reliable, flexible, and plenty good for 2s, which is all I need for the track. Also, I like hearing the little song it plays when you turn it on, lol.
if you dont need waterproof i would recommend the mamba max pro. i had issues with the sidewinder 3 overheating.
Whatever you are, be a good one.
That's great info mate, I'm aiming for a project chimera set up so I can dress it up for any surface. Wet months a car park drifter fast car. Sunny months slash style and a little bit of backslash when I get bored of those.
I'm stuck in sc shell I like the block buster for the gopro mount but I love the flotec shells and the new dodge or chevy ram looks real nice. I'll guess it's a dodge lol we don't have those trucks over here so forgive me.
Could anybody let me know if I need the xo1 shock towers to fit the xo1 shocks?
Also can I modify the xo1 shocks to be the same as the platnium gtrs if so how?
I brought the xo1 shocks thinking they was the same as the slash ones so need to make the best out of them now.
Last thing why would I have an infraction on my account lol. What does 0/1 (5) mean.
I did once say something about putting new bodies on old rcs then putting prices up surly that wouldnt get me a warning.
For the xo1 shocks it's best to use the xo1 towers. Or you can mount the shocks on the inner hole of the A arm. Also if you tried to use the longer shafts from the tears of the gtrs they would pop through the bladder.
As for your infraction in your first post of this thread I noticed there was a word that was astric out (****) always check your post if you see these then you either said a banned name or cursed. I'm surprised the mods didn't edit it out and had some warning message about it.
Ok thanks. So with the shocks could I fit long bodies and shafts and convert the rear xo1 shocks into platnium gtrs?
Is there any other 17mm hex that suits mip xduty?
Welcome to the addiction RC-PHASE,
I have my Rally do double duty. During the times my local tracks are muddy (I donít run in the mud) I drift in parking lots (car parks). When the tracks are dry, I convert my Rally into a monster style LCG Sl4sh with 2.8" Badlands.
I donít like 1/10 scale electronics in the Rally/Sl4sh. I prefer the Castle Creations Sidewinder 8th combo. Great on 2S and f-f-fantastic on 3s. Wheelie time. 4S would be insane.
Like you, I too donít know why Traxxas uses grey or that hideous blue. Black rules.
PS I run anti-sway bars in both Rally and Sl4sh versions.
All the best.
Are you wanting the long shocks in the rear. Basically like a platinum shock system all around using fronts up fronts. And still use the regular shock mounts or you wanting to use the xo-1 shock mounts. If using regular shock mounts just buy the GTR shocks that fits the slash. The fronts are the same length as the xo1 shocks. I was told awhile back that the front xo1 shocks are a tad bit shorter than the rear xo1 and the front slash. But I didn't notice that when I ordered the xo1 shocks all around.
Ivogel, that's my plan for this build too it's quite wet over here and lately winters seem to last longer
So the plan was to build a dark days wet car park beast. I'm a nitro guy or was but the hassle made me lose love for my beast revo so I sold it on and started my first serous brushless rc worthy of replacing the revo lol.
It's almost as beefed up now but jumping in with my eyes closed some things have me confused. Like the xo1 shock stuff I still haven't sorted yet lol.
I just checked and all xo1 shocks are the same but one pair has an extra rubber limiter on the inside.
I gave in and orderd the xx parts to have a go anyway last week so hopefully it's possible.
The longer pair of xo1 shocks measure 83.5mm / 3.28in
The shorter pair measure 79.5mm / 3.18in
The shafts are all 47.0mm tip to tip. So they must be limited at the bottom of the body.
Does anybody know the sizes of the platnium shocks my hope if the front platnium shocks are these ones and fitting the XX bodies and shafts to a pair will make the tears. Mayb with longer springs too.
Buying the platnium shocks as a set would have killed me on the shipping and tax I would have just brought the vorza shocks.
I do have xo1 shock towers on the way over too tho plus have standard towers fitted so I could use either.
I only brought the xo1 shocks as a guy in uk had them cheap and I thought they was the same all round as the platniums tho and it's turned into more money than I expected.
I'll start linking pics soon I'm trying to make a decent battery strap and have the plans now it should be good. I didn't want to cut slits and run velcro under the chassis but screwing velcro holders into the side of the chassis should work nice.
Last edited by RC-PHASE; 05-25-2015 at 02:47 PM.
Anyways, I was a nitro guy too. Like you, I got sick and tired of all the hassle so I quit. Got back into RC about ten years ago just as brushless and LiPo were hitting their stride. RC is amazing compared to the eighties when I was messing with my Tamiya turtle.
My car park (that's a parking lot here in the USA) beast is great. 17mm slicks, Tekno driveshafts with the mo' awesome-ah powah of the Castle 8th system. I put a bunch of soft orange markers around for a makeshift course and have at it. I have been known to draw a crowd. "Wow, he just spun that car all the way around." "Ah, yeah, sure, I meant to do that, yeah."
That's a good idea is the velcro just wedged under the battery bricks?
I might do that aswel for a vertical strap.
Lol at telling me you call them parking lots mate. I'm English I know all American terms from great tv growing up.
Carpark sounds better tho that's what they are for us. Smokey tire play areas.
I've had a pm on msuk and the front platnium shocks are 98mm end to end so I think my plan is out of the window.
While I'm here does anyone have gearing advice.
2700kv 4065 can / sc8 esc / 4s 40c / currently set to 19/54 mayb that's too high tho as the speed app says 26mhp which is miles away from what I hoped for which is 50mph no sweat. 70 tbh but I've learnt not to get my hopes up lol.
Laziness = Simple perfection
I've just realised I can't edit my posts so ill start a new thread for my build or should I just carry on with this one.
With the mips, should I do any mods to stop the pins slipping out?
Also the gearing?
Last edited by RC-PHASE; 05-27-2015 at 09:37 AM.