Do you guys after each run of batteries litterally take out the whole prop shaft and regrease it everytime???
I saw a video on you tube of the guy unbolting it and sliding it out and re greasing it seems fairly straight forward,,,,unless anyone else knows of a good video so I do it correctly? also should I always use traxxas marine grease? I can see me going through a lot of this stuff
When I go out I usually run 2 sets of batteries then regrease.
that seems more reasonable, like regrease after a session not each run,,,do you use traxxas grease?
You can use any type of marine grease you like. Better to buy in bulk!
Yeah I do it after every session, which are typically 3 sets of 3000 mah packs. I use Mystick high temp grease.
I do after each outing. Usually three sets of 5000 mah at 6s.
E-Maxx. Spartan. 4x4 slash. 2x4 slash x 3. Mini revo and summit
E-Maxx kershaw 700`s 4x2 slash 4x4 slash vxl
ya same each outing.
I use a marine grade grease from local outboard marina.
a grease gun tube 10-12oz runs like $7, will last 10yrs
MMM/2650, E-maxx Body=FUN !
3 Slash 4x4
I killed my teflon liner after 2 runs. I greased and did 2 runs then about half way on the 2nd run I heard this weird noise, sounded like I had a plastic bag caught in the prop. Anyways new one in today and new strut with the SS bearings. It's so silent. I highly recommend the upgraded SS strut. I ordered four to save on shipping abit and since I run in saltwater they may be needed.
I grease after two runs. And always at the end of the day before storing the boat, even if it is only overnight.
Like others I use a water resistant wheel bearing grease. The grease gun size tube will cost less at the local hardware/auto store than the 3-4 oz. container will at your hobby shop.
Thanks Guys! does anyone know of any good links i.e. Youtube that shows how to grease the shaft?
what else do you guys do for maint?
Sorry I am new to this
It's really simple. Loosen the coupler right in front of he motor using the pair of 10mm wrenches, grab the prop, and pull the shaft out. Wipe it with a rag to get it somewhat clean, look it over for rust, pitting, or anything abnormal, rub as much grease on it as possible, slide it back up in the boat, and tighten your coupler. Don't put big blobs of grease on it because it will just get all over your strut. Get a nice even coat all over it.
seems very straight forward and I guess I should order a spare,
now I have to find cooling lines etc? I ordered 2 3S so I want to at least parallel the motor and esc for cooling before.
With parallel cooling lines is water jacket upgrade really necessary?
Not sure I'm following the parallel cooling lines thing. People usually upgrade their cooling jacket because the stock one usually leaks. Upgraded cooling jackets don't help a whole lot with actually cooling. My stock jacket never leaked and I like it better than the metal ones because I can turn it inside out and clean all the crap out so I never bothered upgrading.
Thanks F-R Racing for you help,, I just meant from stock the esc and motor are in series, and I would like to split so from the pickup it goes to both esc and motor at same time then out, so both get same temperature of water.
I just dont know where to find cooling lines/fittings
Ohh. Makes sense now. I was thinking of two cooling lines running physically parallel to each other. This place sells everything you will need.
Stock tubing is 3mm. Have you considered a dual pickup rudder? A lot of people use those. They have two holes in the rudder and two nipples on the top. Then people add a hole to their hull, run one to the ESC and one to their motor, then they add another discharge fitting thing in the side of the hull.
yes I just checked OSE and I agree a dual pickup rudder is easy to install basically replaces stock..so I think its worth the 50 bucks and some tubing and another outtlet for water. Then just need some tubing and I think ill upgrade to the 1/4 inch if it fits my stock cooling jackets,
Then while I am making order I may add a splash guard, and a Oct x442 from what I can tell the X442 once sharpened is close to factory and doesnt add too much resistance..is there anyone out there better then stock that doesnt need sharpening?
Maybe I add a water baler too