This truck seems to be designed to fill the gap between a trail truck and a basher.
Having said that, it seems that a lot of folks are discussing ways to maximize the off-road capabilities of the truck, in exchange for a hit on the bashing side. If I owned this truck, I would definitely be leaning towards increasing the off-road capabilities.
Iím not going to comment on the electronics. From the trailing point of view, the two most obvious mechanical things to do are:
1. Lock the diffs Ė Easily done with aftermarket parts or the less-than-elegant-but-free method using a glue gun or silly putty.
2. Change the tires to devoted off road tires and rims. I.e. beadlocks
However, looking at this truck, I am wondering whether youíll be able to fit on a set of standard beadlocks. The inner diameter of the Slash rim (i.e. the diameter on the side closest to the chassis) is much larger than the outside one, and this makes it easy for the upright to fit inside the rim. Would a conventional beadlock accommodate this upright? I suppose this is something that will be covered by Jang or whoever reviews it, but to me it is a pretty important question.
Itís fine that Traxxas chose tires with firmer carcass construction to find a better compromise for bashing, but one would think they would realize a common upgrade would be to add beadlocks.
Hey, maybe they do fit. But I do think itís an important question for those wanting to make it more of a hard-core off-roader.
Unless your willing to dish out some serious cash you wont be putting non short course beadlocks on the Telluride.
Oderint Dum Metuant
I think Traxxas may have taken queues off Jang's shapeshifter project 'Chimera B' for this truck.
A set of proline badlands SC with very soft foams would work well...maybe even no foams at all. Soft compound trencher SC's would work well too.
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I admit that this is something that can probably be remedied with a strong-enough steering servo, but it's just something people would have to bear in mind if they wanted to try this modification themselves.
The stiffness of the carcass would come from the thickness of the sidewalls, the foam used as the insert, etc. The tires on an Axial Honcho or Summit have grippy rubber but the most distinguishing feature is how soft the carcass is.
There may be SC tires with soft rubber compounds, but the carcass would likely be too stiff for real offroad use. But hey, maybe there is an SC tire with an extra flexible carcass...
BTW, none of this is meant as a criticism to your response - it's just extra stuff to think about.
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend sc tires for a real offroad RC. But, for the entry-level telluride, they'd be an easy option. It'd be worth trimming the inside of the sidewalls of the carcass out to soften them even more.
It'd be great if traxxas had a sensored version of the V3500 motor for vehicles just like this. The XL5/Titan will do the job, but the VXL-3s with a sensored brushless 2-pole motor would be a great setup for this truck.
I somewhat agree with you but he is the URC guy, so if another person did this they would receive credit as long as they did more videos about it. The only difference between Jang and other conversions is that he did so many videos on it so therefore he receives most credit. I am not arguing with you so do not take any offense from it. I am just putting my thoughts out there as well. I am sure many others did very many videos on their conversions and what not but like I said Jang is the URC guy so in our world he wins! Again please don't take any offense from my words...
I thought the chimera "a" (slash 4x4 chassis)had the summit body? The pede chassis is way too short for the summit body.
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There is a poster over at rctech.net who switched out the large Traxxas c-hubs with Tamiya parts so he could fit standard 2.2 rims. He has pics posted but no part numbers listed. This might be worth looking into to open up a huge choice of rims.
That is a very interesting method of going about adding some scale realism. I like it a lot.
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That's very cool! I'm not 100% sure, but it looks like he used parts from a Tamiya TA01.
The thing with Tamiya parts is that you buy them in whole trees of moulded parts. If you haven't a TA01 to keep parts as spares, there's a risk you will have to order a couple of trees and end up with a whole bunch of Tamiya parts you have no use for. Also, for those used to super strong Traxxas plastics some of the moulded Tamiya parts will seem incredibly weak and will not stand to much abuse.
In any case, it is a price worth paying for the scale look A car like the Telluride becomes 1000% cooler if it looks scale.
PS: Also, the TA01 is ancient, so don't know what part availability is like.
Found these on the rally forum, they look like a good tire.
Slash 4x4 MT
One thing I did aways back, was use the 17mm adapters and buggy wheels and I cut down a set of crawler tires to fit. Not the best option perhaps, but they worked quite well on my AX-10 rockracer and my BackSlash.
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Slash BL-Pede-E 4Tec-FLM EMAXX-Wraith-AX-10-SCX-10
I have a set of rc4wd 1.55 stamped steel white wagon wheels with their rock stompers, those clear, total width is just a hair wider than the stock wheels and I think their baja claws on those wheels would clear. I think their 1.9 stamped steel wheels would probably work also but I don't have a set to try. Like someone else said above, these wheels are expensive compared to the stock plastic ones but then you can have some good crawling/trail tires.
The HTU I work for has gotten a couple trucks in and we put one on display. It was slow today so I spent some time staring at it and threw together a plan for if I was going to work one over with minimal work.
So here we go!
#1. From looking at it, I'd be willing to bet the Proline Renegade beadlocks for their ProTrac Suspension kit would not only fit, but narrow up the track width so it don't look like a S-Blazer with a HUMVEE suspension under it. Since they're heavier too, it would allow for some weight lower in the truck and help the stability and flexibility of the truck.
#2. Tires I'd probably get the M3 compound Trencher SC with the original style sidewall or the soft compound Traxxas BFG's then modify the foams to have more give to them under load like a 1/1 tire that's been aired down.
#3. I'd also ditch the stock springs for softer than stock Losi truck springs, should give it a little more flex do it doesn't look like it wants to flop over in an off camber situation, don't think I'd bother with the oil unless it lost a cap.
#4. Then swap the Titan 12t for a 21t from the Maxx and Revo for more low end torque and gear it down further on top of that. It's a trail rig, it don't need speed, it needs grunt.
#5. Diffs, I'd go with the heavy oils, maybe Traxxas' 100k in the rear and 500k in the front. Should be able to be done fairly cheap and not cause as many handling issues like you'd see with the spools.
#6. Body, I'd prefer the red or blue body if I were starting with a new one (the green and orange ones are too gaudy). First thing I would do is pull the stickers off the flares then scuff those and the bumpers that are molded to the body, apply Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter, then Duplicolor Bedliner like I've done with a few of my crawler bodies. Once I got around to getting a clear stock body, I'd probably paint that a darker green color like Model Master's GM Licensed Fathom Green Metallic Lacquer (which is lexan compatible!) then wash-rinse-repeat on the bedlined bumpers and flares.
That's it, probably spend more on the rolling stock than anything else short of the truck itself, and that would be just as cosmetic as it is functional.
Last edited by bjoehandley; 09-07-2013 at 02:20 AM. Reason: Forgot about the Diffs.