Long time viewer, first time poster.
I apologize if pictures are too big.
My start in Nitro was my son buying (with his own money) a new Greg Adler edition Slayer Pro and after breaking it in and breaking a few parts (and fixing using this forum) I snagged a used slayer at a local track that wasn't running. Confident I could get it running, I paid $125 for everything. Need a little help with finding out what I got for the price and a liitle help request with where I am at currently with the rebuild.
Before I dissaembled I had to replace the carb and the ez start harness. The fuel that was in the 125cc tank was a god awful color so I drained it and used the 150cc tank that was empty but needed a wipedown.
I have gotten it to crank but with 100% throttle it just dtutters and won't idle without the ez start battery staying on it. I'm using 20% nitro fuel. I've taken most if the truck apart to clean it and use some of the parts in the box... just not sure what I should put on it. My RC mechanic says everything looks mechanically sound including the piston, tranny, throttle linkage... he basically said break it down clean it and rebuild it and he won't charge me to get it running since I'm doing all the labor myself.
Any help is appreciated.
Welcome to the forums! You picked up a pretty good deal there. It's the Slayer Pro you have there with a good amount of spare parts.
For your running issue, First I'd put the carb adjustments to factory settings. High idle should be at 4 turns out (if i remember correctly) and low idle screw head should be flush. And are you also sure you put the piston back in the right?
I've been cruising my slayer pro for three seasons and still love it!
I have a video of the full movement but I'm going to call Traxxas now since I'm working on it now. Ive nearly rebuilt it but I'm not wanting to put the ez start back on until I figure out if the piston is in the wrong way.
Yeah that piston head is in backwards. Need to get the conrod disconnected and then twisted 180 and that should get you fixed up. Easier said than done though.
This Link should help out a lot.
The piston is backwards in that pic. There is a notch on the piston that shoukd face the front/carb side of the motor.
Oops i was a hair late
I was actually on the phone with Hunchback as I was doing this, Directed him to this thread. The piston was indeed backwards and man was that thing a pain to fix.
Just putting everything back together now that I've corrected the issue... Hopefully will have this thing running like a scolded dog shortly.
*Watch the language and clean up a post that has ** in it.*
Last edited by Double G; 09-19-2013 at 01:02 PM. Reason: language
Got it running. Sitting at 3.5 + 1/8 on HSN. 2.5 ON LSN... and I don't even know how to set idle. It will sometimes die after a hard pass, I'm breaking it in on 20% since I don't know any history of it. Still a few things to button up like the roll tower and the rear diff skid plate and upgrading the tie rods in the front. The back wheels were warped but I got a set of replacements with the deal so no worries.
New Carb (included with parts)
New EZ start Harness - $5
60W motoroil in all shocks
TRX turnbuckles and tie rods all the way around (included)
Carbon medium heat plug - Free
Here is it now and a side by side with my sons (right)
Sweet, I found out ideally .7mm -1.0mm is best idle air space (1.5 - 1.75 turns out).
Shell is being repainted today, doing it custom myself.
Where is your air filter? Thst might help some
I didn't have it on. Its on now but I did a end over end roll today and sheered the back plate. Gotta order a new one
You sheered your back plate? Where your starter mounts up?
Yea, I was at the track and tried to start it. Nothing so I thought it was vapor locked. Took the engine apart and the plate came off in 2 pieces.
Wow! I've sent mine thro some nasty spills and never broke one. I was always break the exhaust manifold, well untill I found the proper gap between the pipe and manifold....But other than that your truck up and running strong now?
Just scored a replacing plate and a 6v RX battery connection for charging for free. I'm active duty so typically I don't have the time to fiddle with it at work. Prior to last night it was running stronger than my sons on the same fuel.
He's racing tonight so I'll ask my wife to send a few photos.
Update from track night, son DESTROYED his slipper clutch (no teeth left at all) lost a bearing, washer and key locking washer from clutch flywheel) during warmups. Slipper was adjusted correctly, will have a closer look tomorrow.
While he was running a few races on a borrowed e revo, I got my truck running. Lost compression for some reason. Put a dab of 60W racing oil in the carb intake bowl, hydro locked it but got compression back. Took block head off and wiped the piston top and detonation bowl on bottom of block head, put OWB in correctly, and she fired up with ALOT of coaxing.
I fear I may have scuffed the con rod too much during the piston repair and it drags a little. When rotating the drive shaft via clutch wheel. Got it going in time for the final race for kids and man she's a BRUTE. He was driving and I was coaching and every lap he caught the 2WD electric running a crazy LiPo setup. Son placed 2nd out of 7 in 2 of his 3 races.
Sadly, he stripped out the right rear wheel drive line shaft. Its the only part he broke the whole race.
Last edited by Hammbones; 09-21-2013 at 04:06 AM.
Installed the front Sway Bars but I'm not if I have all the parts for the rear kit. What kind of performance issues will I likely see by only have front kit installed? Mostly a dirt oval and off road short course purpose... and I'm tired of rolling the thing...