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Thread: Project maxx

  1. #41
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    Okay thanks for the help ill check it out and yes I'd be using the flm for gear boxes/bulkheads
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  2. #42
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    Modified this proline servo saver to fit the flm chassis. Had to shorten the threaded part 1/8" so the post would stick out and fit down into the chassis. Than c,bore the end for the bearing to fit back in.



    And for any who never tried this it does work. After three overnight soakings in hot water and rit dye,2 with the powered kind and 1 with the liquid kind the blue traxxas boots are pretty much totally black. Just need a little armor all to condition them.

  3. #43
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    i absolutely love that, im trying to do a black and green theme for myself so that will definitely get rid of the blue

    and is this where you get your screws? do they work well? http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=57
    Last edited by Dann117elite; 07-31-2013 at 06:48 PM.
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  4. #44
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    Yes, Got all my screws from tonys screws. Good high grade 12.9 screws. I would also suggest some good quality hardened hex tools.

  5. #45
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    Okay, did you get that kit or did you just get separately sold screws
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  6. #46
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    Yep, I got the emaxx kit + some separate ones too.

    Things didn't work out with the 8mm end caps for the spyder diffs so I decided to use them anyway with the 10mm bearing.
    Everything was going good, got them both all shimmed and fit to the cases. Then while making my last round of tightening on the rear one I broke one of the six screws holding the diff together. So now waiting for some new screws to fit. Meanwhile I put the knuckles together and fit one of the axles to see where I will need to redrill them. Going to do that today.
    Made a few brass shims to keep the diff cases from moving side to side in the bulks.

    Although the trx steel rings fit nice and snug on the strc knuckles I cemented them on anyway to make shure they stay put.

    I used these gh racing alum pillow ball retainers. They have an oring that holds them nice and a little neverseize on the threads I figured wouldn't hurt.

    A couple 21mm shims behind the inner bearing placed the dogbone in the cup.


    Last edited by cooleocool; 08-10-2013 at 06:14 PM. Reason: merge

  7. #47
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    Redrilled and shortened the axles to fit the ti22 wheels or 17mm hub.

    Got the front end put together.


    I don't want to use grease on this one so im going to get some kind of dry lube for the shafts.

  8. #48
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    Great looking MAXX! Def making want to do a EMAXX build...Look into some Sullivan Dry Ice race lube, I've been using it on all my rides and I love it. Think I paid like 9-10 bucks for it thro tower...

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by BomberSTi View Post
    Great looking MAXX! Def making want to do a EMAXX build...Look into some Sullivan Dry Ice race lube, I've been using it on all my rides and I love it. Think I paid like 9-10 bucks for it thro tower...
    Thanks bomber, Sullivan dry ice, Ill have to check it out.

  10. #50
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    The beast is coming along nicely and looking fully sic. I see some more RC Mag accolades for you with this rig in your future
    Always get a 2nd Opinion!

  11. #51
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    You should sharpie your pre-load adjusters too
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  12. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLW-SVT View Post
    You should sharpie your pre-load adjusters too
    Thought about that but it rubs off too easy. Steering links all hooked up. Ended up having to shorten the collars on the servo saver posts to lower it down about 3/32" so the screw holding the rod end don't hit the bulk. Then I made a couple little spacers out of a red cross brace for the knuckles to fit the supermaxx rod ends.

  13. #53
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    I have a similar problem. Mine are hitting the the ultralight case.


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  14. #54
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    More packages came, more work done. Got some more diff screws to fix the rear diff that my monkey hands managed to break the screw off on.



    A couple .0075 brass shims took the side to side play out of the diff case.

    Made some hindge pins and had these 1/16" thick SS cross supports im going to use. The bottom of this bulk isn't going anywhere.


  15. #55
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    Wow!!! Now that's a pretty sweet set-up! If that ever breaks I hope you have it on video, cause that'd prob be the most impressive wreck ever....And love those hinge pins and lock collars, no pesky E-clips very nice!
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  16. #56
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    very nice! pm sent
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  17. #57
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    This is the first time I have seen this build that rig is totally off the hook, simply stunning and amazing all in one. As I saw it over and over, I just kept thinking I wonder if he wants to sell this thing when he is done, but oh wait, I'll bet he has well over $1000 into the build, and as much as I love your build I would really want to buy the parts and put one together myself. (I build real cars, V8 Fiero's for fun)

    That has so many parts that my current E-Maxx could use. (blew my diff 3 days ago, snapped 2 different rear shock towers in 2 days, and I think my spur gear starting to strip out. Also seized a bearing on both rear spindles. Had to grind one spindle shaft to get the inner bearing race off, and the other had to be pried off.

    Again your build is amazing, a true testament to what an E-Maxx can be.

  18. #58
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    Thanks guys, Its slowly coming together.

  19. #59
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    Can you please tell me what material you used to make the hinge pins and what size the collars are. Any links would be helpful

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngryEVO8 View Post
    Can you please tell me what material you used to make the hinge pins and what size the collars are. Any links would be helpful
    I used 1/8" HSS Drill blanks to make the pins. For the collars I used these.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dubro-New-Bu...item5d420b6977

  21. #61
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    Front and rear assemblies all together. Waiting for some custom dogbones so I can at least get this thing to a roller.


    A little alum spacer in the bumper bracket keeps the cap washer from squishing the bracket.

  22. #62
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    While waiting for my custom dogbones I decided to replace the pins in these flm ones. I don't like the pins they put in them. There kinda short and the big chamfer on one side doesn't fit the UE cups very well. So I got some slightly oversize 3mm drill blanks from cenco grinding where I buy all my hss stock. You can buy it in three different tolerances I got the +.0051mm/-.0000mm. It measured in thousands .1183 same as the stock ones. So its .0002 oversize. Made a little jig, and used a two ton hand press to press them in. A nice tight fit so I don't think any Loctite is needed.


    Much better and fit the ue cups perfectly. The pins are 5/8" long.

  23. #63
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    Nice work. More like Project Indestructible Maxx
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  24. #64
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    Thanks mugs, Its getting there. lol Pretty much have everything except motor and esc. Think im going to go with a new tekin rx8 Gen2 system. Just need to decide on witch one. Thinking maybe one of the truggy versions for 6s, lots of torque.

  25. #65
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    Did you make those hinge pins yourself? Or is it something you can buy
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  26. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dann117elite View Post
    Did you make those hinge pins yourself? Or is it something you can buy
    Post #60 above.
    Quote Originally Posted by EMAXXBRUSHLESS View Post
    I used 1/8" HSS Drill blanks to make the pins. For the collars I used these.
    http://drillblanks.com/main.html
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dubro-New-Bu...item5d420b6977

    Very cool idea on the pin block for the dog bones.
    I have some Ti centers for my Thunder chassis that need new pins and that looks like the best way I've seen so far to push new pins into the dog bones, Thank You for sharing it!
    Last edited by Wildman4910; 08-30-2013 at 01:58 AM.
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  27. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildman4910 View Post
    Post #60 above.



    Very cool idea on the pin block for the dog bones.
    I have some Ti centers for my Thunder chassis that need new pins and that looks like the best way I've seen so far to push new pins into the dog bones, Thank You for sharing it!
    Thanks man. If you don't have a press. A vice would work too and probably even give you a little better control to center the pin.

  28. #68
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    I got to find a machinist to make me some steering knuckles like that, I really hate the 6mm stubs. I keep snapping my Traxxas CVDS in the captured pin of the shaft

    I really need something stronger for in the sand pits I think the extra traction of sand tires is whats killing my cvds, I don't abuse my truck or very rarely land with the wheels spinning warp speed.

    Now that I know the bearings i need from your build i might see if i can drill out some RPM knuckles my self, I'd really like to keep my tru track rear end.

  29. #69
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    To use the losi axles with the rpm knuckles check out my "project black and blue" build. You can shim a 15x24x5mm bearing in the inner and bore out the outer knuckle for a 8x16x5mm bearing.

  30. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by EMAXXBRUSHLESS View Post
    Thanks man. If you don't have a press. A vice would work too and probably even give you a little better control to center the pin.
    I've got a small Arbor press that works well for things like this.
    Look out for the tree/crunch!

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  31. #71
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    Got a few more little things done while waiting for my dogbones.
    Since there was room for a hindge pin brace in front of the servo saver arms I figured why not capture them all.

    A couple more black cross connectors on the ends of the chassis braces since there was a spot for them.

    Made some more shock tower braces out of 5/16" alum tubing and some steel threaded things that came with the ue supershocks. . These ones I ground the threaded insert at 6 deg to fit the front bulk angle.
    Then cut a few threads inside the tubing with a 1/4-20 tap for a place for the epoxy to grab into and hold.


    and theres just enough room for the clutch cover to fit with out having to dremel it.
    Made a block off plate for the empty servo hole.

    Got this for the other side.

  32. #72
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    Easily the most professional build i have seen, incredible. I take it quite a few parts are going to be professionally machined for this to work at there is def some custom stuff in there. But it looks worth it as it looks like it was designed to be that way rather than pieced together from different aftermarket hop ups.

    Where are you getting those little red counter sunk screw holders?

  33. #73
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    Where are you getting those little red counter sunk screw holders?[/QUOTE]

    Thanks, I got the cap head and countersunk washers on ebay. There made by racers edge.

  34. #74
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    Threw a few more parts together to see what it looks like. Drilled and mounted the body posts. They look cool but one good crash should take care of that. LOL at witch point I will replace them with something flexible. Also used this flm center skid instead of the rather plain looking hcr titanium one.


  35. #75
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    It's looking really good Gary! I love the mashers, I'm going to have to get some now..
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  36. #76
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    Thanks mate, I like these 3.2 mashers much better than the 3.8s I have and they have some nice deep grooves for orings to keep them from ballooning.

  37. #77
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    I was thinking of selling my 3.8 mashers and putting the 3.2 on some rpm revolver stable max rims

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  38. #78
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    Thats exactly what I want to do too. I want to try 2.8 Mashers on 3.2 rims too. If they are too small for the Maxx then they will go on the P4de
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  39. #79
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    Battery trays and straps all modified and fit to the chassis. I used these batt trays from Kershaw designs. 7.99 ea.
    There a good fit for the flm chassis. I cut the three raised mounts off of them, made some plastic plates to fill in the voids so dirt wont get all packed up underneath. Then drilled a hole in each corner for a good strong mount. Got the colorful straps from gh racing. 300mm Had to shorten them a couple inchs to fit my 3-cell batts.




    Makes a nice flush fit.
    Last edited by EMAXXBRUSHLESS; 09-12-2013 at 08:07 AM.

  40. #80
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    Awesome man! I am really enjoying following your build!

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