Ok So I Have Broken About 8 Plastic Drive Shafts, 7 Of Them In The Front. For Some Reason The Front One Keeps Breaking. So I Went Out And Bought The Traxxas Constant Velocity Ones. Within 10 Min The Front One Kept Popping Out Of The Inner Cup. After About 30 Min Of Some Light Bashing The Inner Drive Cup And The End Of The Steel Driveline Shattered ????
I Have Noticed Quite A Bit Of Play In My Steering Blocks, Seems Like Where The Pillow Balls Are The Plastic Is Wore Out. There Is Still Play Even When I Tighten The Caps. It Is Not My Steering Rack Itself Cause I Checked It All Out.
What Should I Do ??? Im Thinking To Get The Aluminum Blocks All Around. They Are On Sale Right Now At MY LHS For $45 For All 4 Corners With Bearings.
4s- 18/58 Gearing <Temps Are Fine
Slipper Is Loose
3.8 Trenchers (NO Im Not Taking Them Off I Love Them)
Long Travel Rockers
PLEASE PLEASE HELP. What Can I Do ?
They Are The Integy Evolution-6 Steering Blocks
I run a 1717 on 6s with a XL2 speedy, my slipper is tightened as far as i can go i run LST2 shafts. I have never brocken one.
I recommend you use the Tekno carriers and do the LST shaft mod.
That's It ? Need Something ??? Please
If you have the Traxxas CVD's then you HAVE to get the extended drive cups!! I went through this, changed to the CVD's, broke the drive cup as you mentioned and kept having my CVD's popping out.
I changed to the extended drive cups - problem solved! Ignore the warning of "only to be used with extended wheel base arms".
You also must have the pillow balls sorted out. I don't see a need to change to Aluminium hubs - if your plastic pillow balls aren't holding, upgrade to the Aluminium ones- they'll hold in the plastic better. Make sure you pillow balls are screwed in far enough to minimize the chance of the CVD popping out.
Will you bend a drive shaft or two - YES - but you gotta live with that and you can bend them back with a vice & or hammer pretty easily.
I actually just took aluminum steering knuckles off my truck, I like the plastic RPM much better and once i get time i'll be switching to the tekno carriers and LST2 CVD's
I have the trenchers and if you want to keep them just get use to destroying your truck, I can go hours with my badlands on not break anything, Every run so far i've used the trenchers something has broke. My emaxx is a little more durable with the trechers but not the revo. the trechers are better suited for slower speeds like on the summit. you can spend so much time re inforceing everything but just make it heavier and introduce new weak spots.
Get MIPs (cheaper, high maintenance) or Ball-X (more expensive, 0 maintenance). Both are night unbreakable.
Take your Trenchers off and put them on a Hpi Flux
Sounds like you're suffering from heavy braking in the front. Tune down the brakes some.
Thank You, Truck Is Stock. Beside The Steel Drive Lines. Decided Not Get The Aluminum Ones. Also RPM Web Site Says Not To Use The Axle Carriers With The Long Travel Rockers On There. So I Didn't Get Those.
I DID Order 2 Of The Extended Drive Cups.
I Have Blown 3 Ring And Pinion Gears And 1 Spider Gears. I Bought A Assembled Revo 3.3 Diff And Have Not Had A Problem Since.
Also If I MUST Take The Trenchers Off To Stop Breaking Stuff... What Rim And Tire Combo Does Everyone Suggest ?
I Like The Size And Performance I Get From The Trenchers. (I Love To Bash And Go To The Local Track And Mess Around) NO I DO NOT RACE IT THERE.
ESC Settings Are:
Timing: Low Setting
Breaking Power: 50%
Throttle And Brake Curve: Default Settings
You have had ring and pinion gear diff issues, but these went away after installing a Revo 3.3 diff??? These diffs are weaker so it is either coincidence, luck, changed driving style or something else you have changed - loosened slipper??
Breaking front axle shafts could be due to your 50% braking setting. The CVD's will fix this, but only if you get them sorted out with extended drive cups and correct pillow ball settings.
For tires - Maybe try the Badlands for a smaller tire and subsequently less breakages or new Shockwaves if you want something closer to stock- both Proline. Either way - TAPE and BALANCE!!
No Everything has been still the same. The Tires are Very Um Balanced and no matter how much I balance them they still wobble like crazy. im baking them now !!!!
I use rc monster hybrid diff cases in my erevo with ofna diffs and cups. I have tekno carriers with the recomended bearings that are used to rin the lst shafts. You will have to remove a small amount of material from the inside of the carrier to make the inside bearing fit. To make the shafts the right size i gave a machinist friend of mine all 4 shafts one carrier and a hex. He re drilled and cut down the shafts for me. I have had nk problems since
Thanks! So just one inner bearing will do with the ofna drive cups. The pillow balls are screwed in quite far then, i suppose? That's great to hear. I will probably use rc monster drive cups with modified RD racing knuckles and a single 15x21x4 inner bearing .
Last edited by WesleyK; 07-10-2013 at 04:25 AM.
So I Baked The Tires, Taped Them, Glued Them, Balanced Them And Then BOOM The Rear End Literally Exploded. So I Rebuilt It And WOW Never Thought How Much Taping The Tires Would Help. Jumps Better And Drives So Smooth. Also Has WAY More Traction Due To More Of The Tire Is Touching The Surface. Thanks Everyone For The Help. Any Upgrades Anyone Would Suggest ?
I too was surprised what a difference taping tyres made...glad to hear its sorted mate...you may down the track want to look at the LST2 diff mod if you start stripping diffs on a regular basis.
Rock n Rolla !
I will pm you some photos i set the truck up as per normal from memory the pillow balls are in until they are flush with the threads. I have basically set it up so that if i do bend or break a shaft i can buy just the shaft and swap the bearings and axles over. The only time it will be a little more of a hassle is if i break a tekno carrier because i will have slowly remove material for the inner bearing to fit. It doesnt matter what carrier you use if you choose to do the lst shaft mod you are going to have to remove material.
1717 and an xl2 maybe some small 4s packs for an 8s setup for some kick *** times
If I Go With The LST2 Diff Mod What Do I Need ? Where Can I Find A Assembled One or 2 ? Can I Still Use My Traxxas Steel CVD's ? One Last Thing, Would This Be The Best Mod To Do First or Is There Something Else ?
i'm looking for the lst2 diffs and shafts and i found the standard ring and pinion gear but i also find the steel-TiNi (LOSB3535), whats the difference except the material, is it better?
Are they really worth the money because the are very expensive?
I would do the LST DIFF and SHAFT mod at the same time, budget permitting.
To do the LST diff mod, you will need 2 LST diffs complete, 2 LST diff cases, if you decide not to run the LST shafts (i recommend you do) than you will need to modify some out drives so that you can put the traxxas out drives on to the diff. These can be purchased fom RC Monster here is a link
There are a ton of how to threads for this mod, search for mistercrash and his ERBE thread. it is all in there.
You will also need a multitool like a dremel to remove material from the bulkheads and diff case to make them fit.
To do the shaft mod, you will need a full set of LST shafts, i recommend you use a set of tekno carriers, you will need to remove some material from the inside of the carrier to fit the 15x21 bearings, and if you want you will need to redrill and cut down the axle on the shafts to get the hex closer to the carrier. its not needed but it does look a lot better in my opinion, i did it.
Well Broke Another CHEAP ***** Traxxas Steel Driveline, Just Doing A Few Laps At The Local RC Track. I Cant Believe How Brittle These Things. It Almost Seems Like The Plastic Ones Were Stronger !!!
You must be doing something wrong. I've had problems with Ball-X dogbone end popping out of the drive cups when bashing. RPM arms proved to be just a little too flexible for them. The solution was to change pushrods from inner to center holes, thus lowering the car slightly. Had no troubles since.
PS: Please Drop The Title Case. It looks ridiculous and makes skull ache.
I will say that the best method of controlling the breakages is controlling your throttle. Not landing on throttle goes along way to not breaking shafts, diffs and transmission.
Also not running massive tyres is a huge help. I dont run anything bigger than a truggy rim and tyre setup. It simply isnt needed.
I'll have to disagree about the tyres. There are bashing environments where bigger tyres are not simply recommended, they're required. I drive on 4S with Trencher X's and had some sick jumps and even sicker landings, and I've never had any problems with the stock unshimmed diffs yet.
I am glad that you are having good fun with your truck, but lets not forget the simple physics, it takes more torque to turn a heavier bigger tyre and with the power of brushless systems out there if the tyre and system power gets bigger and better than eventually something will break. the connections between the tyre and the motor are trans which we strip gears in, shafts that we break hence this thread, diffs, brought up in this thread and another set of shafts, hence this thread. Sometimes a little bit of slip is a good thing.
I run a 1717 on 6s and have done since the 1717 came out. i have only ever broken one shaft and one diff. I made the changes to my truck because i simply had the parts lying around and the time to do it. I enjoy the tinkering more than the driving.
Ok So I Emailed Traxxas about the problem. They are going to send me 2 replacement shafts. The guy also talked to me about my suspension setup, I told him I had the long travel rockers on. He then informed me that the Long travel rockers are NOT recommended for bashing, WHY ??? He said the car is more prone to breaking, flipping over ECT. I told him my whole setup. Esc settings, gearing, batteries, shocks and oil. He said put back on the P2 rockers and see if that helps. So I did. Now I have NEVER jumped the car with the long travel rockers on. So now I have the P2 rockers on, Silver Springs Front, Blue in back and 50WT all the way around. I cant believe how much better the car handles in the dirt and jumps so so much better.
The bottom does slap the ground on some of the higher jumps but I read that that is ok because it distributes the "Shock" throughout instead of just the shocks and the shock towers themselves ???? <<< If this is wrong someone please correct me and please let me know if my suspension setup sounds ok.
Now please can anyone suggest some tires. I have A New set of Desprado 1/2in offset rims. I was looking at getting the Proline Trencher MT tires. They are taller but not as wide as the Trencher X that I have on there now. Would the MT Tires be better or worse ? If so what are some other good bashing tires, mainly just for loose dirt. I do like the bigger size tires (Like bigger than the Talons).
So Tires for the rims I have ? and does my suspension setup sound ok ? What else can I do to further make my car a great and reliable basher ? THANK YOU EVERYONE Who has helped !!!
Many would suggest Badlands, but if you want higher tires, why not try the new Proline Shockwaves.
For the record I run the Trencher X's and love them!
Bash it like someone else has to fix it!
I love badlands, when i put them on my 6T with a 1520 on 6s i can get the truggy to bounce on the wing at will, than again if im not careful it will destroy the diffs
The suspension setup sounds fine, if you wanted you could also do the VDP piston mod but its not necessary. I would really suggest the LST mod, at the moment it is the only real answer we have for diffs and shafts.
Last edited by AngryEVO8; 07-13-2013 at 09:27 AM.
So... I've been having a LOT of CV's poping out.
and I've been reading about these "extended" drive cups... link please. I think I know which ones they are, but they sure don't "look" extended.
Are these what everyone is talking about?
I currently have the Traxxas CVD's, and the RPM True-Track rear set up. and I feel like the CV's pop out WAY too easily.
YES Those Are Them. I Just Picked Up a set and not a problem since. They are bigger and you need no mod to put them on. Also The RPM Has More "Flex" Then the stock arms so that could be an issue as well. But I would suggest the longer drive cups. My CVD's were popping out like crazy. Since I have put the longer cups on, I have about 5 runs and no promlems.
The real solution is summit axles I did the lst2 shafts and the traxxas Cvds and hated both they kept snapping on 6s. Once I switched to summits the truck has been great no breaking anymore
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6S OR NOTHING............................ maybe 5s
Well I Decided Im Going To Go With The Proline Shockwaves. They are Similar To Size Of The Talons But A Little Taller and Wider. I Am Going To Tape Them And Mount Them On Some Black Desprado 1/2in Offset Rims.