Spartan Just Stopped
My Spartan just stopped dead in the water. The rudder works, but no motor.
When power applied to the boat, the ESC flashes red, no sounds, the rudder works and the motor will "pulse"; that is the motor will move just a few millimeters, stop then do it again. Sometimes when power is applied this motor pulsing does not happen. All batteries have been changed and I'm sure this is not battery related.
I'm trying to determine if the problem is the ESC or the motor. There are 3 wires going to the motor, can I apply voltage to any of these to see if the motor actually runs? If I plug a multimeter into any of the 3 outputs of the ESC, can I expect to see anything; thus checking the ESC?
Pull the cover off the receiver and make sure the receiver is dry. If there is any water in the case dry out the receiver. Rebind the receiver to the esc per the owners manual.
rebind your radio and rx that should fix it.i had to do it to mine.and if that doesn't work set all your end points for your esc it's all in the manuel if you have one
It sounds like the thermal shutdown. Have you resolved this issue?
I asked Castle the same question. First let me say, if it's a Thermal Shutdown the motor should run again after it cools off. To test your motor and ESC there are two ways. One is; with everything in your boat connected, you can scope the ESC output leads with an O'scope. There should be pulses on the 3 motor wires, and the pulses should increase duty cycle width's as you increase the trottle. To connect your scope, the negative scope lead would connect to the (negative) battery input lead of you ESC. The other scope lead would connect to each motor lead at a time. I have never done this, but I would like to, to see what the outputs of a known good running system looks like.
The way I presently troubleshoot my boat/truck now is by substitution. I have an extra ESC and motor. I can tell you this that might help you: First, try letting your motor cool off, and see if that works. Next, if you can move your rudder, and your ESC has a good connection to your reciever, than chances are your transmitter and reciever are good (especially due to you getting a little bit of motor response when you use your thottle). Then, if you can turn the motor shaft, and it feels like it has compression, your motor is probably good. The only thing left is your ESC.
In closing, when I get a chance, I'll bring a O'scope home from work, and take a peek at my ESC's outputs to let you guys know what's there. I'm kind of currious myself. Castle sent me their engineering publications on my Emax's Mamba 2 system, so I have a preddy good idea of what to look for.
so has the problem been fixed and what fixed it?