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  1. #1
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    Hinged Electronics Tray/Battery Hold-Down Project

    I was going to wait until I was totally done with this project before I posted it, but I figured maybe everyone could share their thoughts on it too. I am getting ready to replace Grave Digger with a Rustler body, and I want it to really hug the chassis and sit low. The one thing that sucks about the whole thing is that I can't use this mod until I get rid of my Humpback NiMH packs and go with SPC hardcases. This is still in prototype form, it will be sanded down and painted satin black when it's done with a bit of foam rubber on the bottom to snug the battery. (I won't know how much exactly until I get my LiPo). If you see cause for concern or a way to improve the design, feel free to express it. I am open to criticism.

    Quarter inch Plexi, some HD piano hinge, and some careful layout work:



    Electronics should be totally under the body, and away from the body posts:



    Hinges up to accept battery swaps:



    I will go a bit more in depth when I have more time, in case someone wants to do the same thing. Let me know what ya think.

  2. #2
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    amazing was thinking on how to change the mounting plate so i wouldent have to rip the servo tape off evertime i did a cleaning

    but didnt even think about makeing a hinge like you have.....nice work
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  3. #3
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    Are you doing anything to keep the battery cool? Right now it seems to be very insulated.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    amazing was thinking on how to change the mounting plate so i wouldent have to rip the servo tape off evertime i did a cleaning

    but didnt even think about makeing a hinge like you have.....nice work
    Thanks.

    And I didn't butcher anything. It can still be turned back to stock.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Are you doing anything to keep the battery cool? Right now it seems to be very insulated.
    Any ideas? There will be about 5mm of space between the tray and the battery except where the foam rubber goes somewhere in the middle. Still working the details out.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ksb51rl View Post
    Are you doing anything to keep the battery cool? Right now it seems to be very insulated.
    he's going to lipo.

    and insulation would be good for the winter months
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by reod12x2 View Post
    he's going to lipo.

    and insulation would be good for the winter months
    Yeah, this is for when I go to a flat pack lipo. I have humpback NiMH right now.

  8. #8
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    lipo with brushed shouldn't rilly heat up at all....unless something happens.
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  9. #9
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    This is as low as I could get the tray (or my starting point). I could always add spacers to raise it up, but I won't know how far until I get my batteries and body. The fine tuning will be done then. I am going with a Castle SV3/4600 combo with SPC 6500mah 65C 2S Lipos eventually. Just got to save some more coin. Will the lipos get hotter than my NiMH? I haven't ever used them.

  10. #10
    Marshal ksb51rl's Avatar
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    No, LiPos should hardly heat up at all.
    Alt-248 on the number pad =

  11. #11
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    Sweet, that's the one thing I was worried about. So you think 5mm of space is enough?

  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. rag6's Avatar
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    Being that the plexi plate will not be a stressed chassis member, you could possibly route out some areas of the plate to let cooling air in. No need for all that plastic to be there. This is really a great project
    Ya can't polish fertilizer...

  13. #13
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    +1 to rag6 was reading this and thought the same thing, I work in a milling shop so I was like I would definatly take that plate to work and run some holes thru it like a FLM chassis or something to that effect like Rag said not much stress on it and cheap so make a extra one with less holes just in case....love this idea ...nice work Ramsey!!!
    Let's Go Steelers!!!... KCCO

  14. #14
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    oh and might check into aluminum the 6061 or 7075 grade be about same weight better rigidness and heat absorbing to draw heat away from battery ...
    Let's Go Steelers!!!... KCCO

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Greatscott's Avatar
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    In general design, I can't say that I like it, seems like it would put a lot more weight above the axles.

    With that said, very nice fabrication! Whether I like the parts or not, it is always cool to see someone make their own parts, especially ones like this, that look good.
    Submarine Qualified, Chief Inducted, Navy Retired

  16. #16
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    just drill some holes in the lid so air can move thats all make a pattern out of them with smaller drill bits

    Quote Originally Posted by Ramsey77 View Post
    Any ideas? There will be about 5mm of space between the tray and the battery except where the foam rubber goes somewhere in the middle. Still working the details out.
    Anza Slash & a pile of Parts

  17. #17
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    We call them "speed holes" around here! I was thinking of doing that once I get my CC SV3, since the mounts are probably different between that and the XL5 ESC I am using now. I'd hate to add holes now, then find out later that I need a new mounting plate because I put holes in the wrong spots!

    @Greatscott: the hinge is the part that weighs the most, but the Plexi weighs about the same as the plastic piece I took off. And the weight sits just a bit lower than it used to (lowering the CG a hair). We'll see how it works out, I may just have to scrap it.

    @Timber211: I thought of going with Aluminum, but we had none in the scrap pile at work (which means I would have to BUY my own). This part was made for exactly $0.

    Thanks for watching, I will update this post once the thing is painted and pretty. You won't even notice that it's plexi, and it should blend right in with the rest of the chassis. I have to shave about a mm off of the plexi around the battery hold down studs so I can get pins in there, and a couple more ideas that I want to try. I'll report back later.
    Last edited by Ramsey77; 06-29-2013 at 06:03 AM.

  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Jezza's Avatar
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    Very nice indeed. Original. On my build I may have to improvise and think outside of the box for my idea to have a hybrid revo stampede
    Live life to the fullest

  19. #19
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    lol Ramsey I would have went with the plexi too then lol
    Let's Go Steelers!!!... KCCO

  20. #20
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    The scrap at work is always up for grabs, and I use my fair share for things. Lol

    I had some Tech Flex sleeving leftover from my PC mods, and I have finally found where I stashed it so I will be sleeving my wires today.

  21. #21
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    That's a nice idea. If I find some scrap, I'm doing this.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by WorkingDad View Post
    That's a nice idea. If I find some scrap, I'm doing this.
    The trouble you had with having room by the rear post is literally why this mod exists. Feel free to use it. Pretty simple, and it would be cheap to buy the parts. The first version was WAY over complicated and over thought. I had to scrap it.

  23. #23
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    How do you cut the plexiglass? I always heard it shatters or breaks if you don't use the right tools.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by WorkingDad View Post
    How do you cut the plexiglass? I always heard it shatters or breaks if you don't use the right tools.
    Well, I'm using Lexan (it's a brand of plastic glass) and it wouldn't shatter if you tried. I used a bandsaw to rough it out, then I used a Bridgeport Milling Machine to make it nice and square, followed by a drill press. Don't get me wrong, it will dent and scratch, but it would NEVER shatter. That's why it is used in industry for machine guarding and windows.

    Here it is painted, and broken down into parts. Pretty simple. Matching all the holes is the hardest part.


  25. #25
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    Slick! I think have a sheet of Lexan lying around. Now, I have neither a bandsaw nor milling machine. Scroll saw and belt sander?

    It looks even better painted. Great job.

  26. #26
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    Would work workingdad no problem ....
    Let's Go Steelers!!!... KCCO

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by WorkingDad View Post
    Slick! I think have a sheet of Lexan lying around. Now, I have neither a bandsaw nor milling machine. Scroll saw and belt sander?

    It looks even better painted. Great job.
    Maybe even a scroll saw and a file.

    EDIT: I put in the type of file I used but it was edited out. Starts with a "b" and it's rougher than a "2nd cut" file.
    Last edited by Ramsey77; 06-29-2013 at 03:14 PM.

  28. #28
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    Way to go Ramsey!! Looking at your design for the second time. I think it's very creative and functional. I would think it would handle better as more weight is further up front. Control of those wheelies lol. Great work! Can't wait to see what you come up with next.


    Sent from Oser world

  29. #29
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    Thanks dirty don. Next thing on my "to do" list is a custom rustler body. I will probably have to make some custom mounts for it.

  30. #30
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    The wife gets a Dyson vacuum, and I get this:

    http://www.spcracing.com/index.php?productID=120

    My Titan will run ok with it right? Gonna sell off my NIMH and use that money for a second SPC. How much run time do ya suppose this will give me right now?

  31. #31
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    I have that same one, but with a CC 3800kv. I get about 45+ minutes out of it.

  32. #32
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    Wow. 45 minutes?! So due to my less efficient brushed motor, should I expect a bit less? Or will it even matter?

  33. #33
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    This is a great idea to compliment the addition of a rustler body. Trust me when I say that when you can run a traditional rustler front body mount, the body will hug the chassis just like you want it to. As a matter of fact, it will hug the body so much that the side skirts of the lid will come down as far as a rustler's chassis height, which is as far down as the bottom of the bulkhead and trans case - so you might trim those some for an extra custom finish.

    The only 'flaw' in your design is the servo wire. With the hinged plate in the down position, the servo wire has enough slack in it to fall down the side of the chassis and potentially get snagged on something. A possible solution would be to run a servo wire extension outside of the receiver box and have it connect to a cinched servo wire where you could disconnect the two when you need to remove the battery.

    But in the end, it is so worth it. Here's an old photo of a 1 inch extended stampede with a rustler raptor body


  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oaks View Post
    This is a great idea to compliment the addition of a rustler body. Trust me when I say that when you can run a traditional rustler front body mount, the body will hug the chassis just like you want it to. As a matter of fact, it will hug the body so much that the side skirts of the lid will come down as far as a rustler's chassis height, which is as far down as the bottom of the bulkhead and trans case - so you might trim those some for an extra custom finish.

    The only 'flaw' in your design is the servo wire. With the hinged plate in the down position, the servo wire has enough slack in it to fall down the side of the chassis and potentially get snagged on something. A possible solution would be to run a servo wire extension outside of the receiver box and have it connect to a cinched servo wire where you could disconnect the two when you need to remove the battery.

    But in the end, it is so worth it. Here's an old photo of a 1 inch extended stampede with a rustler raptor body

    That is exactly the "truggy" stance that i want. So I should get the stock rustler body mount up front? What about the rear? Just use the center mounted one on the shock tower? And I will probably buy a servo extension, run it under the battery, and come up and through the hinge side so I don't have to unplug anything
    Last edited by Ramsey77; 06-30-2013 at 12:48 PM.

  35. #35
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    You'll want a set of stock rustler or slash front body mounts. The mounting 'bar' gets mounted straight up for a slash and upside down for a rustler. The body mount kit comes with 3 sets of posts for the mounting bar. You'll want to mount the bar right side up withthe shortest posts for the desired effect.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    Did you say truggy look?


    http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5dC-X4sT1Jo

    And I like the idea about the servo extension under the battery. That sounds good.

    As for the rear mount, you'll probably need to fashion something up. My chassis was extended an inch so i was practially usig the bump on the rear shock tower.

  36. #36
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    I can get a set of front and rear body mounts for the Slash 2wd for $8 off of Ebay. I think I could fashion something that would work out of them no?

  37. #37
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    Absolutely. I think a modded mj rear mount should work well, also.

    I used the body mount part that the digger uses in the rear. I cut the under webbing out, curved it, trimmed it and mounted it using one set of holes on the rear shock tower. I added the battery post in the middle of it.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  38. #38
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    Actually, I take that back. I used a set of holes from the wing mount, but you should be able to use the stock ish rear mount and make a body mount post in the center, also

  39. #39
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    I was thinking about taking the rear posts with all the holes in them, cutting them into individual legs and putting them directly on the shock mount where the body mount screws on. I don't know. I guess I will have to wait till I get the body to see for sure.

    On another note, my TBone rear bumper/motor guard will be here tomorrow. I will end up making my own wheelie bar out of some aluminum and a couple bearings out of the dumpster when I go brushless. (SV3 4600 combo).

  40. #40
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    I have been throwing around the idea of a wheelie bar that shoots sparks off of the ground, like a metal plate instead of wheels. . Has anyone ever done anything like that?

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