So all my parts (most of them anyway have arrived.. still waiting on sway bars, and big bore shocks.)
I want to get start hopping this thing up.
Here is a pic of the parts im putting in.
Ive never done anything like this before, im anxious to get started..
I will likely ask here for help a lot.. please bear with me.
Im most concerned about how to hook up the tenshock to the ESC etc.
I need to find those gold connectors from ESC to motor too.. or i could direct solder the wires frmo the esc to the motor.. there is enough wire.
Thoughts on how I should go about this thing?
Last edited by Dadx2mj; 06-13-2013 at 08:10 PM. Reason: Language
Yes you can solder the wires directly, what Esc is it, does it has soldering post? Tape the tires with gorilla tape before glue them, loctite the MIPS, and let them dry for 24hr, what motor is it, what kv?
Last edited by RC-Fan; 06-13-2013 at 08:10 PM.
tape wires before glue? why would i glue wires?
hobbywing sc8 esc with tenshock 3800kv motor
and the wires on the esc are inside the unit hard soldered, then long 8 inch leads which i assume can just go directly to the motor. they are all black though, so i have no idea of color match
already running in to issues.. motor is too long, i have to trim the screw where the old ESC fit in to. and there are no mounting hardware pieces on the new ESC... man... this is going to suck, im never going to get to run
So im going to drill a new hole in the esc mount, further in to catch that second ESC mount screw hole...
ive sanded off the end of it so the motor will fit. and now i have to sand down the furthest left esc mount hole to accomodate for the tenshock motor.
stop me anytime
Last edited by dunginhawk; 06-13-2013 at 08:54 PM.
so i rebuilt the slipper clutch assembly with new pads etc bearing adapter thing.. when i tighten it doown shouldnt i go as tight as i can, then back it off 1/4? nothing spins if i do that.
so im trying to solder my esc wires to my tenshock motor (gold leads) and the solder isnt adhering... am i using the wrong kind of solder>??? is there such a thing?
I am going to hit the LHS tomorrow for a traxxas connector for battery (stupid esc just had lead end). so i can get a new thing of solder if it matters.
regardless it isnt sticking.
Last edited by dunginhawk; 06-13-2013 at 10:07 PM.
He was saying to tape the tires. You should just cut off the old esc mount and double side tape or velcro the esc to the chassis. For that motor I would back off the slipper closer to half turn. You shouldn't be able to turn anything on the spur assembly by hand
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Last edited by Slaughter33; 06-13-2013 at 10:05 PM.
yeah i did back it off about a half...
i ended up getting it to mount with the stock mounts.. dremel etc...
motor is mounted and good to go with paper method.. perfect...
now im trying to solder the motor wires on, but have the issue above.
Esc wires doesn't have an specific order, if the motor goes backwards, just switch wires, clean the surface, apply some soldering paste if you have it makes the solder to stick better to the surface, is the soldering melting? What type of solder are you using ? I use 60/40 from RadioShack.
ive never heard of soldering paste. but i can go pick some up tomorrow.. no idea what kind of solder it is. its old.
but yes, its melting. i put some in that crevace where it goes and it is just loose, not adhering at all
That combo never failed to me, it is called soldering paste flux. It can be any brand just to have you an idea. The type of solder you using matters I tried diff types and this is what worked better for me, and the only one I use. Make sure the tip of the iron is clean.
Last edited by RC-Fan; 06-13-2013 at 10:50 PM.
so can you buy paste at Home Depot or lowes ? i know i can get the solder there. i notice the link you sent was kholer, not sure if that would be a specialty store purchase.
it can be from any hardware store, RadioShack, lowe's, Home Depot, any brand also
I wouldn't solder wires directly into the ESC but use the connectors compatible with the motor connectors if they have them if not go buy some bullet connectors.
so the esc hass the wires coming out of it, with 10 inches of lead to go to motor... so its already in there factory done. its the soldering on the motor itself i have to do .
When matching the esc wires to the motor, the industry standard is from left to right A-B-C, with the connectors facing you.
http://www.funshobby.com/index.php/p...IPPING%29.html (second pic)
Same with the esc wires facing you. A-B-C, I hope this helps. One other thing, before soldering the esc wires to the motor directly, I've heard its recommended to shorten the wires to 6", due to current ripple effect.
Last edited by Shaky17; 06-14-2013 at 12:18 PM.
Slash 4x4 MT
I agree direct soldering is the best choice resistance-wise, but soldering on connectors gives you the option of changing out the motors at a later date.
My Black & Blue Rally is faster than your color...
link is not working
also, i think i want to do bullet connectors. i bought some in case i do
by left to right connectors facing me, i am guessing that blunt end of the motor to me, and the pin (whatever its called away from me)
Last edited by dunginhawk; 06-14-2013 at 02:37 PM.
Last edited by dunginhawk; 06-14-2013 at 04:30 PM.
im not sure what you mean by solid or birdcage.. are you talking the nuts that go over the tires ? cz im using MIP axels too
ok.. after about 6 hours of work I now have things mostly done.
Front and Rear Sway bars - check
Front and Rear MIP axels - check
Front steering hubs - check
Front steering knuckles - check
Front and Rear Big Bore Shocks - Check
Rear Steering Arms - Check
RPM A arms throughout - check
Clear Gear cover - check
15 tooth Pinion gear - check
King Headz Motor Mount - Check
Tenshock sc401v2 3800kv motor - check
Integy Heatsink and Fan - check
Hobbywing sc8 ESC - check
17mm Hexes - check
3.2 Revolver rims - incomplete
2.8 trencher tires - incomplete
And with these upgrades ive went from Noob to something not noobish.. I could tear this thing down in my sleep. I like to know my cars inside and out... so im glad i finally do.
I notice when i roll the truck now there is a grinding coming from the motor. is that because its a 4 pole vs my vxl? or is that something to be concerned about. there is no slop in the gears.. its coming fromm inside.
That said.. im at an endpass. I cant connect the integy fan to the Hobbywing because the hobbywing is using the connector.. and the 3 way i bought doesnt fit everything... The lead from the ESC is quite short and i fear 1 screw up and it will be toast.
Also. i have the 17mm hexes, but there is no hole in the MIP axels to accomodate the pin needed to connect them in before putting in the grub screws... Thoughts?
Secondly. Ive never programmed an ESC or linked it to a radio or any of that before..
Can someone assist me with that? With my hobbywing tenshock combo i got a programming box, but i have no idea how to use it.
I want to program my traxxas 2.4ghz tqi radio (stock) to work with this hobbywing setup.
can anyone through me a bone? thank you
Last edited by dunginhawk; 06-15-2013 at 01:32 AM.
nm on the 17mm hexes.. realize i dont need the pin.. rest of the stuff im lost on
These are birdcage also referred to as banana connectors. Notice the male connectors are hollow.(click on pic to enlarge)
Links are for reference only.
Slash 4x4 MT
ok. so i think im 99% of the way there.. only real concern now is the heat sink fan.. which i started another post for.
its late here so I cant go racing this thing up and down the street, but i took it for one 15 second run around the wet backyard. just to see if she ran ok.
Once you give it gas its fine, but the problem is when you barely pull the trigger it grinds. you can see the pinion gear just kind of shaking... is that normal from a 4 pole? it seems normal when its up to speed.
basically appears to be standard cogging . i think i went to a 14 tooth pinion gear in there, which isnt a big change. stock spur gear.
What should the timing be on the ESC? i think i took the default value
Last edited by dunginhawk; 06-16-2013 at 12:09 AM.
Its called cogging man and there's nothing to worry about and I hope you are loving the new setup dude tenshock rocks.....peace
Famous last words...watch this!!!!
yeah i researched it a little.. most places say its a sign of something bad
Heading out now to check some stats run it a bit. i hate having to program the ESC between 2s and 3s lipos.
ok initial thoughts. HOLY CRAP!!!!. id estimate in the 55mph range. tons of torque.. in fact i stripped something.
Thing ran cool (only got to like 130 F) but i didnt run it SUPER hard.
Tire came off midway through (i havent put on my 3.2 revolver/trenchers yet. still trying to figure out if i want to grind em, or cut the tires like that one guy did.
So right when i was about to head in i floored it.. and bam . SPINNING. its either the pinion/spur gear or the drive shaft. Hex on the tires arent stripped
UPDATE - looks like the spur gear got partially stripped... I did the paper trick adn there wasnt any slop in there. not sure what happened.. i dont think the motor shifted. although the alignment looks off.. gotta take it apart.
so it appears as though the motor moved or something. Not sure how to avoid that in the future.. its pretty tight... right now if i turn the spur gear it barely catches the pinion and scrapes along the top.
1 run on upgrades and 1 broken part... hmmm you guys are prophets
Last edited by dunginhawk; 06-16-2013 at 01:48 PM.
Get a new motor plate and just make sure its all tight and see if the small bearing on the slipper shaft is not binding.I love my tenshock its so strong and the torque is sick dude.......peace
Famous last words...watch this!!!!
so why would i need a new motor mount? this is brand new... ????
also, just put it back together and took it out... the spur gear is mostly fine, just some small chips out here and there.. i think it translated to a pretty grindy sound especially when no throttle is applied...
does that make sense?
so i need to go buy another 54 tooth spur gear huh?
The stock motor plate is a little thin IMO. Strc motor plate and blue loctite on the motor screws and it won't go anywhere. I loctite my pinion as well.
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the motor screen that screws in the area between the motor and the battery pack? isnt that a metal to plastic where the loctite wouldnt do any good?
also... i already could barely fit my ESC in there . if i buy a thicker motor place i may be in more trouble.. ill look in to it though
No there is a motor mount and a motor plate. Loctite the screws that go through the motor plate into the motor itself. The STRC plate is probaby only 1mm thicker, but doesn't have any flex.
ok.. i ordered one of those last night... i dont think i loctited those this last time.
so if there is any damage to the spur gear it needs a new one?
you dont have to get a new one. i have run many times on a damaged spur with no issues, but it will run and sound better.
Its worth getting a new one even if you don't use it straight away dude and as slaughter said it will run and sound much better.....peace
Famous last words...watch this!!!!