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  1. #1
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    7

    Question Newbie Off-roader questions about #3605 -vs- #36054

    Okay... Total new commer to the off-road scean here. Here is my current situation, and I'm looking for some advice.

    I've got a chance to pick up two (2) Traxxas Stampede #3605 (Still waiting on details as to what month/year of production) to pass on to my children that are 'steet-smart' and have proven to be talented with their 'toy class' and an entry level hobby class BMW street car.

    I'm sure I will want to beef up the front bumper and some of the other front end components (and wheelie bars), but untill they do break something, does anyone one have recommendations on a solid 'repair kit' configuration that I should build?

    Kids being kids (and Daddy going to want to play some also), what battery/charger configurations would you recommend? If you ever have dealt with kids you know that some days 15 minutes is too much play time; other days 4 hours isn't enough), so if there is something out there that can recharge quickly in the field I would be very interested. Having a few extra batteries is fine by me.

    For now my last area of interest is the Tx/Rx setup. I plan on spending a bit of time on the 'training (50% power) mode, but one day I'm sure we'll want to go full-speed. Range has always seemed to be our biggest problem with our current {sub-hobby grade} vehicles. I'm open to suggestions for Tx/Rx configurations. From what I read it shouldn't be an issue, but just want to verify. As a side note...Daddy has had a hunger for off-road R/Cs for a very long time (put off by military duty), so I expect that I'll (Me...Daddy) will splurge and step up to a 4x4 and/or nitro in the future. I do like the idea of being able to mix/match Tx/Rx on the without the need of matching up combos all the time.

    What will it take to upgrade a 3605 to a 36054? VXL? Possible to upgrade to 4x4 when the kinder advance that far?

    Sorry for being long winded, and thanks for taking the time to read through my mumbo-jumbo. Thanks in advance for any advice you feel willing to share.

    daneck

  2. #2
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Chattanooga, TN
    Posts
    269
    Sounds like you're about to have a lot of fun! The stock TQ transmitter that comes with the XL-5 (the 3605), has ok range. To really go far you'll want to go with a 2.4ghz setup. The FlySky FS-GT3B (http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html) is a really good, affordable radio. Traxxas's TQi is also a nice setup, albeit a few more dollars. The TQi will let you add telemetry via an iPod/iPhone if you are interested in that down the road.

    If you're going to be keeping it "slow", don't worry about upgrading the motor for now. I was blown away by how fast even training mode was when I first got my XL-5, not being in RC for 15+ years.

    I would recommend upgrading to aluminum caster blocks in the front, grab a couple pairs of RPM steering blocks and RPM a-arms. The aluminum blocks will save your caster pins, the RPM steering blocks are still plastic (tough plastic though) and will take some of the shock of crashes before breaking. And the a-arms may crack over time. That's if you really want to have something on hand, the RPM stuff doesn't break easily.

    To go to the 4x4, you'll basically rebuild the truck. You'll need a new chassis, front and rear end. You can move your motor over, and of course the battery. Some would argue it's cheaper to just go ahead and buy a new 4x4. You could look on eBay for a 4x4 "roller" and that would give you a good starting point.

    Have fun!

  3. #3
    RC Racer
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    North Western Indiana
    Posts
    232
    Fast charger, go with the onxy 200. Half hour charge for nihms.

    http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-a...w=1440&bih=799 (one on the top right)

  4. #4
    RC Champion
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    woodstock .on.canada
    Posts
    2,240
    nimh's should never be charged in half an hour^^^^ it heats them up and damages them internialy

    now lipo on the other hand if rated it can be charged at half an hour even less if rated for less(comonly as c rateings)


    oh and a word about the xl-5 stampede if you get the newer one's they will have the tq 2.4ghz tx/rx combo
    and if the tq is like the tqi you should be able to drive the trucks till you cant make out the direction
    summit /mustang /stampede-2s spc lipo

  5. #5
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    7
    Thanks for all the input everyone. I do appreciate it. Any suggestions on building a maintenance/repair kit? Even if the kids tire of the hobby, I'm sure I wont. ;-)

    I'd rather have extra parts then down time. We've been fortunate with our street driving, but I'm not sure about this off road stuff. ;-) I'm sure that extra body clips are a start, but I'm open to suggestions for either replacement and/or up grade parts.

    Thanks again for sharing all the info.

    daneck
    P.S. Picking them up tomorrow. They have the older Tx/Rx setup, so upgrading the Tx/Rx to the newer 2.4GHz is already in the works.

  6. #6
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    451
    Castor blocks and pins, front bulkhead, and spur gear are the things I seem to break most often. Some guys upgrade when they break something, I tend to buy two of the stock parts so I always have spares. The only thing I have upgraded in two years is Traxxas aluminum castor blocks and lipo batteries. I broke three castor blocks on my truck and one on my kids so I figured that should be upgraded. They look great and really tighten up the front end.

  7. #7
    RC poster
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    7
    Okay...

    A very late update, but I have been having fun and learning a lot.

    The deal for the 2wd's fell through, but I did splurge and get a 4x4 VXL Stampede. :-) (Go Daddy, Go). Unlike the suggested parts often broken, I've experienced a few different landings/encounters then others I guess. :-)

    To date I've had some down time due to 1) A ruptured front/right (F/R) shock, cracked F/R A-Frame and associated bent hardware ( Pede hit a small rock on approach of jump, too quickly veered off course and struck a post with the F/R tire - looked good, but was fatal) {T-Bone to the rescue, along with aluminum shock caps, and RPM Arms}.

    2) After an aggressive jump over a mis-formed pile of dirt (yea...I'll blame it on the dirt), I happened to land on my wheelie bar which yanked my mounting screws out of the bottom mounting plate. Once I realize I was limping away from the landing I noticed that I busted my right/rear (R/R) stub axle (already had replacement parts on order, because I had noticed that all of my axle points where starting to 'oval out' and would need replacing soon). {Going with MIP's, so any suggestions as to what might be next – besides learning how to be easy on the throttle from my kids}?

    Over all everything is going as expected (except for the fact that the kinder are easier on the throttle then their daddy). As I've read in someone's signature - “Drive it like you stole it”.

    One question for the team... I'm going to use the 'stock' tires until they are worn enough (or until I finish replacing parts slow enough to comfortably afford to replace them), and was wondering... How is the best way to remove any water from inside the tires/wheels. I'm currently running them at top speed while holding the Pede for a few seconds (both forward and reverse), and then (after removing) squeeze all the water out that I can, let them set to allow the water to settle, and repeat.

    During all of this I've noticed not only a tremendous amount of 'ballooning', but also the need to re-glue my tires to the wheels. Any suggestions? Total stock wheel/tire combination for now.

    Thanks again for any assistance, suggestions, scoldings due, off-handed comments, or anything else that might help me move it the right directions. :-)

    I hope everyone is having as much fun as we have this past few weeks,
    daneck

  8. #8
    RC Competitor
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    66
    I have heard you can drill a very small hole straight down into the middle of the tread and hold the throttle wide open to get the water out... But don't drill it anyway but straight or the tires will rip themselves apart. Others might want to confirm this method.

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