Id like to keep this thread as close to the subject as possible SANDPROOFING!
Here are some of my own ideas and some found on the internet. The goal is to keep that
nasty sand and dust out of undesired places in our beloved trucks, so we can enjoy longer
bashing sessions and shorter cleaning evenings .
Please share your tips and tricks as well - pictures are most welcome!
I found this in tool shop silicone liquid gasket there are many different types, but this one seams
To be working OK for this application. Looks nasty because of brown colour, but it doesnt matter at all.
I used a thin layer on one of the bulkhead halves - on the connection edge, waited 5 minutes and screwed
them together. Afterwards added some more on the surface and the gap was sealed.
Then i used it to seal connection between the bulkheads and chassis. On the front and on the rear there
is a little lip on the chassis that was designed to do just that, but when there is more flex, I am sure
it opens up just enough to let small debris right on the diff and pinion. This lip fits "inside" the diff window
on the bulkhead.
So ... time to fix it and smear a little on the outside just to secure connection.
After this quite easy operation the bulkheads are sealed!
Above pictures are taken after sand bashing looks as clean as during assembly!
(diffs are shimmed by the way)
BUT there are still bearings exposed for the IN-shaft and OUT-shafts.
For the OUT-shafts I used a simple sponge cut to size bigger then the round opening, so it could be squeezed.
It was also soaked a little bit in thick oil from the bearing side. Pushed the half shafts, screwed them on and checked
For binding to ensure that there is not too thick sponge used. It was fine.
IN-shaft I had to leave without changes so far ... there is no gap to fit anything there to protect the small bearing. Still needs to think it over ...
It needs protection from both ends.
REAR end simple sticker solves it
FRONT end little more complicated, but still fairly easy.
Sticker to cover the holes
Holes for mounting
And the foam trick again just needs pinion gear. Sponge is squezed and front is done!
Just ensure there is not too much and the shaft can spin with ease.
Sticking-out shaft with a hole for slipper clutch adjustments I used something like this and glued
It directly to the gearbox with liquid gasket. Nice that it is transparent
Front and rear driveshaft outputs just as previously I've done with sponge:
Now mounting to the chassis this is the outcome
And we are left with the cover liquid gasket again! I used small amount on all edges that have contact
with the gearbox and also bottom side to fill the gap on the chassis connection.
And view from other angle
This is it so far still to come:
- axle bearings
- pillow balls
- half drives (connection that allows elongation)
- possibly some more
i think you are reducing its sand proofness. sand will always find a way in so its better to have a way out. thats why the slash 4x4 sucks so bad in sand and the LCG conversions or say an Axial EXO works in sand is because the gears are not covered so much to trap sand.
I don't like grinding noise from the sand in the gears or bearings. So far it works and I cannot complain.
Thanks for the post!
Im intreged with the motor stickers. Would this block air flow? Causing higher temps?
Any thoughts on the servo(s)?
Zach23 - Nice write up! Pictures are awesome! I'm going to do a few of these.
Last edited by Little Smokey; 06-01-2013 at 05:30 AM.
Mini Revo VXL 7107
E-Maxx 3903 - He Lives!
Currently I don't have the wheels on ... it's in the other thread. I don't think there is any airflow inside the motor, so closing the bearings shouldn't change anything besides blocking out sand and debris. Before this mod I even had to tear down the motor and clean the sand from the magnetic rod and the wires inside! This should help I think. Only thing that worries me is the foil and glue used. Will report if it withstands the temps from the motor without melting or shrinking.
Regarding gasket - I would advice checking the colour as well Brown I used doesn't look too great ... red, blue, black or clear should work just the same, but the look would be much different