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  1. #1
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    Lightbulb Stampede_fanatic's new project... "The Rollin' Tomato"

    Tire Mod teaser:
    2.8" tires on 3.2" wheels WITHOUT trimming the wheels. You read that right. I managed to mount 2.8" tires on 3.2" wheels with no trimming involved on the the 3.2" wheel!
    '
    A lot of people who run 2.8" tires on 3.2" wheels trim the edge of the 3.2" wheel in order to accommodate the "Traxxas-style" bead tires. I figured out that trimming the plastic edge on the 3.2" wheel creates a weak point especially if you subject the 4pede to a lot of jumps like I always do, so I decided not to trim the 3.2" wheels.

    I will be showing a "How-to" section in this thread in the next few days. Still waiting for other parts to arrive.

    Teaser pic front:



    Teaser pic back:


    Many many thanks to forum member ROB311952! Cool guy and always there to help out a fellow member.
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  2. #2
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    That looks great! I never would cut or trim anything when I would put 2.2 over 2.8...glad it worked in this case too.
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Looking good dude it nice to see you still here and modding like a mad man......peace
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    Awesome. I Like it!!!!! Can't wait to read more about it....
    Just Bash it!
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  5. #5
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    Your gonna love the mashers 8)
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  6. #6
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    Here we go guys. This is the "How-to" on mounting 2.8" tires on 3.2" wheels. In this case, we are mounting 2.8" tires on 3.2 RPM revolvers with stablemaxx offset.

    First of all, we trim of the traxxas-style bead part of the tire (The part between the red arrows). It's very easy to do since you just follow the line. Anyways, why do we need to trim that? When you trim off the part between the arrows, it will give you a tire with an almost 3.2" inner diameter instead of the stock 2.8". Do this on BOTH SIDES so both will wind up with the same inner diameter after. Mounting will be a lot easier since you have created a bigger inner diameter. You now have created a new-style bead! Here is a pic of it:




    This is what the tire will look like after trimming off the traxxas-style bead:




    Here's a pic before trimming the traxxas-style bead (Left) VS the trimmed tire with the new-style bead (Right):



    Next, we trim off the foam. Yes, you read that right. The FOAM. You have to trim off the inner and outer edges to round the corner to give you a little channel for the glue to flow in on the inside edge. You only need to trim off about 1/8" on each side of the inner and outer edges. To cut the inside corners, turn the foam inside out to make it easier. Here's a pic of it before trimming:




    After trimming (Looks crappy, but it does the job ):




    Here's a pic before trimming the foam (Left) and after trimming (Right):




    For those of you guys wondering how much was taken off the foam, here's a pic of it along with the trimmed off traxxas-style bead:




    After doing all the above, stuff the foam in the tires and stretch the tires so the new style beads drop into the troughs on the rim on both sides. Work it by squeezing around the tire to make sure the foam didn't get bunched up anywhere. After doing that, use thin CA glue to glue up the inside edges of the rim. Let it run all around the rim and wipe off any excess. Let it dry for about ten minutes with glue side up. Flip it over and do the other side.

    After that, do the outside edge of the rim. Make sure you put a rubber band around the outside diameter as soon as you glue that edge to hold it in contact with the rim tightly. Flip it over do the other side. Dont forget to put rubber band. Why do you put rubber bands? You do that to hold the tires in place so when the glue dries, the tire will have a tight contact with the wheel. When your done gluing both sides, leave them face up with the rubber bands on overnight. In the morning, take off the rubber bands and the tires will expand back to normal in about 5 minutes. Now, they're ready for use! Check the tires after the first several runs and re-glue any areas that seem to have not adhered to outside edge the wheel. This is how it will look like after gluing (I was really intricate when it came to gluing. I really wiped off every glue excess to have a clean overall look):




    When you do it right, you will end up with a pede that not just looks meaner, but handles better as well! Say goodbye to stripped hexes and hello to more bashing time! Hope this "How-to" helped guys!

    Again I want to say many many thanks for forum member ROB311952!
    Last edited by stampede_fanatic; 05-22-2013 at 09:35 PM. Reason: Added more pics
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  7. #7
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    Nice write up. I'll be curious how it holds up. I keep having tires come unglued from 2.8 wheels. Can't hold up to big power.

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    Are you concerned about the loss of the "suspension" from the lower profile wheels? It should put more stress on the shocks.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaughter33 View Post
    Nice write up. I'll be curious how it holds up. I keep having tires come unglued from 2.8 wheels. Can't hold up to big power.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
    Thanks man!

    I'll keep you guys updated once I get more runs in.


    Quote Originally Posted by Vision_tim View Post
    Are you concerned about the loss of the "suspension" from the lower profile wheels? It should put more stress on the shocks.
    Yes you do get a lower profile tire, but you still have some tire (meat) left for jumping, hard bashing, etc. The wheels really hold up well, even though it has low profile tires. With that said, there's no need to worry about a loss in "suspension".

    Anyways when you do this mod, you will end up with the same overall diameter as a 2.8 tire on a 2.8 wheel. See post #2 in this thread: http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...es-on-Slash-MT (Forum member thedreadedend has a good post on it).

    Chassis Teaser:


    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-24-2013 at 05:53 PM. Reason: merge
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  10. #10
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    I just got Trenchers on desperado's. I wish I saw this sooner and would have upgraded to 17mm hex's. I have not stripped a hex yet. Not even with the stock wheels. I do run 3s Lipos, So I quess it's just a matter of time before one strips. I have the new MIP shafts so gluing is not an option. I did replace the axleshaft nuts. So. I'm on top of things.
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  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    And always check your wheel nuts before you bash and maybe half way through your battery as well it does help a bit dude.And i am curious to see what motor is going into your chassis stampede fanatic.....peace
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramflames View Post
    I just got Trenchers on desperado's. I wish I saw this sooner and would have upgraded to 17mm hex's. I have not stripped a hex yet. Not even with the stock wheels. I do run 3s Lipos, So I quess it's just a matter of time before one strips. I have the new MIP shafts so gluing is not an option. I did replace the axleshaft nuts. So. I'm on top of things.
    Yes, you are right. Gluing is not an option since you can never take the wheel out any longer since you also glue the hex screw. Just upgrade to 17mm hexes once your wheels are badly stripped.


    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    And always check your wheel nuts before you bash and maybe half way through your battery as well it does help a bit dude.And i am curious to see what motor is going into your chassis stampede fanatic.....peace
    Yup, that's what I always do. Check the wheel nuts before a run and mid-way through a run. It really does help a lot since I usually catch one or two wheels that have loose nuts. ramflames, listen to this man!

    Clue on the motor. It comes in either green, black, or even blue.
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  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Thank you for the kind words dude and the 2400kv will blow your mind man cant wait to see this build come together....peace
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  14. #14
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    Update! Been a while since I posted, so here goes.

    This is The Rollin' Tomato. Started with this chassis with the following mods:

    Chassis dyed black
    MIP X-Duty front/rear
    STRC red aluminum bellcrank
    Traxxas aluminum GTR 13mm shocks
    Traxxas red aluminum steering knuckles
    Traxxas red aluminum castor blocks
    Traxxas red aluminum rear hubs
    King Headz Motor mount
    King Headz aluminum bearing adapter
    RPM arms front/rear
    RPM shock towers front/rear
    Traxxas 2075 waterproof servo
    Boca green seal bearing set



    After dremeling the chassis. Shaved the following (Btw, the white square is velcro. I'm doing some testing).
    -->ESC posts
    -->A tiny part of the driveshaft cover
    -->Plastic where the ESC rests

    Here's a pic of it:




    This is the ESC that I will be using:


    The problem with the MM2 ESC is that it DOES NOT FIT between the motor and servo since it is HUGE! The solution to that is to do a swap. What swap you ask? It's swapping the waterproof receiver box with the ESC. The waterproof receiver box goes in between the motor and servo and the ESC goes up front end of the 4pede. You read that right, front end. I tried installing the waterproof receiver box between the motor and servo and noticed immediately that had to create a "Waterproof Receiver box plate" to support it. I then took my attention to the ESC. I tried to mount it on the front end and also knew that I should create an "ESC plate" to support it. No easy way out here.

    For that to happen, I searched the forum, other r/c forums, google search, etc and saw that a few guys already have already fabricated plates to support the waterproof receiver box and ESC. I looked at what these guys have done and decided why not do the same thing since their pede has been running with these "plates" and already have been tested. Why bother changing something when it works fine? Anyways, I want to thank makuloco2000 for all his time, effort, and patience for helping me out on making the waterproof receiver box plate. I got a lot of ideas from exchanging messages and looking at his build thread (http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ild-MM2-2200KV). I also want to mention makuloco2000 and RC-Fan for giving me the idea of making an ESC support plate. Here's his post ((http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...kv-Mini-e-maxx). I decided to use lexan instead of metal on the ESC plate since I have a scriber to cut the plastic. Alright here's a pic of it (ESC plate on left, Waterproof receiver box on right. In case your wondering, the white thingy's are velcro):




    Installation of the ESC plate:




    Installation of Waterproof receiver box plate (Had to use longer screws and go from underneath to secure with low-profile nuts later):




    Picture of both ESC plate and Waterproof receiver box plate installed:




    Time for this bad boy to go on top of the plate:




    Velcro done!


    I am only allowed to post 10 pics (including emoticons). See next post...


    Continued...

    MM2 Mounted on top of plate:




    Another view of MM2 installed:




    Doing some test fitting on the waterproof receiver box after applying velcro:




    ESC switch postioned between servo and waterproof receiver box with 2400kv motor:




    With antenna installed:



    More to come guys! Thanks for looking!

    Need to complete:
    -->Solder ESC wires to motor wires
    -->Solder traxxas battery connectors
    -->Pair Receiver with transmitter

    Mods to come:
    -->Proline protrac suspension kit
    -->New painted body
    -->Revo slipper clutch upgrade
    -->Sway Bars
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-27-2013 at 12:51 PM. Reason: merge
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  15. #15
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    Check the installation guide for your MIP's. They are installed upside down and will hold lots of dirt and debris, eventually binding. The outer spline should be on the top allowing water and dirt to fall out.

  16. #16
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    Good catch

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Myriad View Post
    Check the installation guide for your MIP's. They are installed upside down and will hold lots of dirt and debris, eventually binding. The outer spline should be on the top allowing water and dirt to fall out.
    I did not see that one. Good catch indeed! Thanks man!



    Quote Originally Posted by Vision_tim View Post
    Good catch
    +1!
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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I have never has any problems with my mips in over two years and I have run mine in all conditions but if this method works I may give it a try.....peace
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  19. #19
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    Great build dude, this is going to be one badass stampede! Can't wait till its done!

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    i just finished my tires tonight... using this method... ill test em out wednesday or thursday... unfortunately i have to go golfing for business tomorrow then to the college World Series for a couple days... but hey, gotta support the hobby .

    how are you guys attaaching the 17mm hex nuts to the tires? they only screw in so far by hand, and I cant really get a socket in there... i saw one guy did his with a pliers, but that scratched em all to heck.

    thoughts?


    Edited for language abuse. If you see a starred out word in your post, you must edit it out to avoid earning warning points.

    so i ended up just using a pliers. holding the hex hut and spinning the tires, then craked the rest of the way....
    wow.. worked great.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-27-2013 at 12:52 PM. Reason: merge

  21. #21
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    I used a cheap 17mm socket from AutoZone and used a grinder wheel to smooth the front face of the socket flat, fits nicely and keeps the socket from slipping off the nut when tightening.
    FLM EMBE P4de "Digger" Slash MT Backsl4sh Summit

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    I have never has any problems with my mips in over two years and I have run mine in all conditions but if this method works I may give it a try.....peace
    Don't try this method man. Dirt and debris cannot escape and will just keep on gathering in the shafts unless you remove the shafts and clean the insides.



    Quote Originally Posted by 4x4stampedevxl View Post
    Great build dude, this is going to be one badass stampede! Can't wait till its done!
    Thanks man! Still waiting for some stuff to arrive before I start posting updates.



    Quote Originally Posted by dunginhawk View Post
    i just finished my tires tonight... using this method... ill test em out wednesday or thursday... unfortunately i have to go golfing for business tomorrow then to the college World Series for a couple days... but hey, gotta support the hobby .

    how are you guys attaaching the 17mm hex nuts to the tires? they only screw in so far by hand, and I cant really get a socket in there... i saw one guy did his with a pliers, but that scratched em all to heck.

    thoughts?
    Quote Originally Posted by dunginhawk View Post
    so i ended up just using a pliers. holding the hex hut and spinning the tires, then craked the rest of the way....
    wow.. worked great.
    Quote Originally Posted by EmaxxChris View Post
    I used a cheap 17mm socket from AutoZone and used a grinder wheel to smooth the front face of the socket flat, fits nicely and keeps the socket from slipping off the nut when tightening.
    I use this one. The front face is flat and it REALLY helps with the screwing in of the 17 mm nuts. It really gets the 17mm nut all the way in. If you used a regular socket wrench, the bottom is concave and won't screw the 17 mm nut all the way in.

    It's from Integy and here's a pic of it:



    Flat front face:
    Last edited by cooleocool; 06-27-2013 at 12:51 PM.
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  23. #23
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    Very nice write up, the photos will be helpfull when my new wheels arrive next week.

    Question for you which Traxxas motor is that?

  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Thanks for the heads up with the shafts man I will keep them just as they should be.Any news on the motor and esc dude??....peace
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    Quote Originally Posted by ottawacats View Post
    Very nice write up, the photos will be helpfull when my new wheels arrive next week.

    Question for you which Traxxas motor is that?
    Thanks man!

    The motor is a traxxas 2400kv motor from the traxxas funny car. They came in blue cans, but you can also get them in green as well.


    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Thanks for the heads up with the shafts man I will keep them just as they should be.Any news on the motor and esc dude??....peace
    Yeah, keep the shafts they way it is man.

    ESC I had to return back to castle to get a replacement since it was defective. I will repair this 2400kv (Get parts for it) and it probably go in the other pede. For this pede, I have a surprise motor on the way. Will keep you updated on that!
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  26. #26
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    Thats really cool i am going to try that!!

  27. #27
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    Will using trenchers and RPM revolver wheel be the same prosses as using the mashers? I just got the 2.8 trenchers and the 3.2 revolvers wstablemaxx offset. and I dont want to cut these tires untill I know. Thanks

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe596 View Post
    Will using trenchers and RPM revolver wheel be the same prosses as using the mashers? I just got the 2.8 trenchers and the 3.2 revolvers wstablemaxx offset. and I dont want to cut these tires untill I know. Thanks
    Yes your 2.8" trencher will fit the 3.2" revolvers just fine after trimming the tires.

  29. #29
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    Nice - Subscribed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pede_Crazy View Post
    Thats really cool i am going to try that!!
    You should man!


    Quote Originally Posted by Joe596 View Post
    Will using trenchers and RPM revolver wheel be the same prosses as using the mashers? I just got the 2.8 trenchers and the 3.2 revolvers wstablemaxx offset. and I dont want to cut these tires untill I know. Thanks
    You should trim the tires like I did in order for it to fit.


    Quote Originally Posted by soundmaster View Post
    Nice - Subscribed


    Anyways, updates coming next week. Keep a lookout for that guys!
    Last edited by stampede_fanatic; 08-07-2013 at 10:25 PM.
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  31. #31
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    Looking forward to your updates dude and your new motor dude hope your all good....peace

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    Update! It has been a long, long time since I posted so here goes... Besides being busy at work, I finally got the parts I needed.

    Before (With 2400kv funny car motor, unconnected ESC wires to motor wires, and un-soldered battery connectors on ESC):



    After (With 2200kv motor, connected the 3 ESC wires to motor wires, and soldered Traxxas male battery connectors, part num: TRA3070):



    Why change to the 2200kv motor you ask? I figured that it's a stronger and faster motor than the 2400kv. With that said, I might be selling the 2400kv, or use it on Blue Bayou. Link for that project here: http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-4x4-vxl-build...

    Anyways, another reason why it took me a while to post was the Mamba Monster 2 ESC was faulty. Pairing the ESC to the transmitter was really difficult because the MM2 always throws the following 2 errors:
    --> ESC temperature above the operating limit (I have never ran the rc yet. This always occur during the calibration process)
    --> ESC is not detecting a valid signal from the receiver (Also does this ever since I started the calibration process)

    I did everything to make it work with no luck at all so I fiinally decided to call a Castle rep. He did some troubleshooting on the phone and he came to the conclusion that the MM2 ESC is faulty and they will be glad to replace me with a new unit. The moment I received the new ESC, I returned the faulty one at no extra charge! Shipping was covered by them as well! Hats off to castle for that. They really treat their customers right.


    Need to complete:
    -->Connect/Solder ESC wires to motor wires - DONE!
    -->Solder traxxas battery connectors, part num: TRA3070 - DONE!
    -->Pair Receiver with transmitter - DONE!
    -->Revo slipper clutch upgrade - DONE!

    Mods to come:
    -->Proline protrac suspension kit
    -->New painted body
    -->Sway Bars
    -->New Wheels <-- I will be doing something new here. Not the played out Proline desperado, or even the RPM revolver wheels. Keep a lookout for this!
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  33. #33
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    Wow dude I though your other pede was awesome but this one is sick dude and the power that motor will kick out will be mind melting..........peace

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    Update! The waterproof receiver box plate that I fabricated shakes too much, so I did the following things to correct the problem. First off, I got a new chassis, shaved it, and decided to keep the plastic where the ESC rests.


    This is how it looks like before:




    Here's what it looks like now. As you can see, I retained the plastic part where the ESC rests (Circled in Red):




    Closer pic:




    I also decided to change the waterproof receiver box plate to a thinner, better piece. This is how it looks like before:




    On the left is the new thinner waterproof receiver box plate I made:




    New design left, old design right. You can see that the old design is sooo thick compared to the new one:




    Trial fit. Fits perfectly. YEAH!




    Installed pic:




    I used the following parts to install the waterproof receiver box plate (3x15mm Flat head screws X2, and ""Low-profile" M3 Lock Nuts X2):



    I will start mentioning EVERY part I used to on the Rollin' Tomato so that you guys can also replicate what I have done.

    Update! Installation of Hot Racing's Black Aluminum Heat Sink Motor Plate on the 2200kv motor (Part num: SLF1801):




    Removed 2 heat sinks since it hits the motor. No way I can install the Hot racing plate with all the heat sinks in:




    Installed pics:





    Used the following parts to install the Hot Racing's Black Aluminum Heat Sink Motor Plate on the 2200kv motor (3x6mm Flat head screws x2)



    Need to complete:
    -->Connect/Solder ESC wires to motor wires - DONE!
    -->Solder traxxas battery connectors, part num: TRA3070 - DONE!
    -->Pair Receiver with transmitter - DONE!
    -->Revo slipper clutch upgrade - DONE!

    Mods to come:
    -->Proline protrac suspension kit
    -->New painted body
    -->Sway Bars
    -->New Wheels <-- I will be doing something new here. Not the played out Proline desperadoor even the RPM revolver wheels. Keep a lookout for this!
    -->RPM Wide front bumper
    -->Tekno Racing Big Bone Center Driveshaft

    New part update!

    Since I wanted to make this 4pede as light as possible, I decided to try another bumper brand. This particular bumper not just looks light, but seems tough as well so I decided to try it out. If it does not work, I'll just go back to the T-Bone racing front bumper. The previous bumper I had on my other 4pede (Blue Bayou) had the T-bone racing bumper installed.


    Before pic:






    Took this part out:




    Installed pics:






    Another installed pic:




    Here's the new bumper I'm using (Part num: 81042, RPM Black wide front bumper):



    Need to complete:
    -->Connect/Solder ESC wires to motor wires - DONE!
    -->Solder traxxas battery connectors, part num: TRA3070 - DONE!
    -->Pair Receiver with transmitter - DONE!
    -->Revo slipper clutch upgrade - DONE!
    -->RPM Wide front bumper upgrade - DONE!

    Mods to come:
    -->Proline protrac suspension kit
    -->New painted body
    -->Sway Bars
    -->New Wheels <-- I will be doing something new here. Not the played out Proline desperado, or even the RPM revolver wheels. Keep a lookout for this!
    -->RPM Wide front bumper
    -->Tekno racing Big Bone Center Driveshaft
    Last edited by cooleocool; 09-17-2013 at 09:05 AM. Reason: merge
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  35. #35
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    Dude this ride is going to be super sick and that rpm bumper works a treat..........peace
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Dude this ride is going to be super sick and that rpm bumper works a treat..........peace
    Thanks man! Btw, New part update II!


    Front bulkhead before:



    Rear section before:





    Front bulkhead after. I used RED loctite on both front and rear outdrives:



    Rear Section after:





    Installation pic:





    Before:





    FINISHED PRODUCT (I had to remove the clear driveshaft cover for good since the rear outdrive grub screw rubs on it really bad):





    Part that I used (Part num: TKR6755. Tekno Racing Big-Bone Center driveshaft)




    Need to complete:
    -->Connect/Solder ESC wires to motor wires - DONE!
    -->Solder traxxas battery connectors, part num: TRA3070 - DONE!
    -->Pair Receiver with transmitter - DONE!
    -->Revo slipper clutch upgrade - DONE!
    -->RPM Wide front bumper upgrade - DONE!
    -->Tekno racing Big Bone Center Driveshaft - DONE!

    Mods to come:
    -->Proline protrac suspension kit
    -->New painted body
    -->Sway Bars
    -->New Wheels <-- I will be doing something new here. Not the played out Proline desperado, or even the RPM revolver wheels. Keep a lookout for this!
    -->RPM Wide front bumper
    -->Tekno racing Big Bone Center Driveshaft
    -->Clear gear cover
    Last edited by stampede_fanatic; 09-16-2013 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Added more pics...
    I want an avatar... 3000 posts here we go!

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    It keeps getting better bro check out my pede in the rides pics........peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  38. #38
    RC Qualifier
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    It keeps getting better bro check out my pede in the rides pics........peace
    Thanks man!

    Saw your 4pede. Looks nice. I love the paint job!
    I want an avatar... 3000 posts here we go!

  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wales in the UK
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    6,441
    Thanks dude my 10 year old daughter helped me.......peace
    Famous last words...watch this!!!!

  40. #40
    RC Qualifier
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    Sep 2012
    Location
    Liverpool, New York
    Posts
    541
    This is looking to be one bullet proof Pede!
    Just Bash it!
    4x4 Pede
    Two 2wd Pede

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