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Thread: Stock shocks

  1. #1
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    Stock shocks

    Hey, new guy here and I've got a P4de roller built up with the Sidewinder SCT w/3800 motor (ran for 45 minutes yesterday bashing and no temp shutdown.) I started running it hard a couple of days ago and noticed the this thing moves around all over the place and the shocks do not seem up to the task. It was surprising to me because I've got a P2de VXL and never felt the stock shocks were an issue (for 3 years now.) What should I do to stiffen this thing up? Big bores? Losi?

    I'll get a build thread started soon because I've got a lot of parts to put on this thing.

  2. #2
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    I just did aluminum caps, TiNi shafts, 45w oil, and heavy sway bars.

    My p4de is lowered a little to where the a-arms are just a hair above parallel when the truck's on the ground. The trenchers give it plenty of ride height. The sway bars let me take turns quickly, and keep the truck from swaying around all over the place. The stock springs worked great after all that.

    To use sway bars with the shock guards, you need some of the traxxas ball mounts like they have in the bottom of the shocks. I don't remember the part number.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, I'll look into that.

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    Mine is the same way...I just have a 6500 2s lipo and the factory motor and esc....I put in 50 wt shock oil and alum caps...Stiffer springs...



    Still a handful to control...I think some better tires are in order...

  5. #5
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    You could look at big bores with 50wt oil and stock springs all round its a sweet combo for on and off road and can take super air as well .....peace
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  6. #6
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    Got the big bores in the mail today and the 40wt oil on the way. If this doesn't improve things enough I'll try the sway bars.

  7. #7
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    You should try the sway bars as well man just because it will make it even more stable......peace
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    I've got a lot to install already with new RPM arms, lots of little aluminum pieces, the telemetry setup, bumpers, wheely bars...

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    But thats part of the fun seeing how each mod makes a change to the pede man....peace
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    Hate to say it, but there is no reason that big bores would improve your situation. They are essentially the same shock as stock, but made of aluminum.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaughter33 View Post
    Hate to say it, but there is no reason that big bores would improve your situation. They are essentially the same shock as stock, but made of aluminum.
    Yep. They won't change the feel one bit. They're just more durable.

  12. #12
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    At this point I would suggest stiffer springs. I don't use them, maybe someone who dose can chime in.

    http://www.vgracing.com/mm5/merchant...de_Springs_4x4
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    You should try the sway bars as well man just because it will make it even more stable......peace
    Hi! Can you post a link to the sway bars?

    thanks in advance!

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    Quote Originally Posted by CycloneRC View Post
    Hi! Can you post a link to the sway bars?

    thanks in advance!
    Link is for reference only.

    http://buy.traxxas.com/product_info....oducts_id=9359
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaky17 View Post
    Thanks and Cheers!

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    Thanks for the addition info guys. I don't have the shock oil yet but when I do I'll give it a go and if that doesn't work maybe go with stiffer springs and even toss on the sway bars for of it.

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    Last edited by ksb51rl; 05-10-2013 at 10:18 PM.

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaughter33 View Post
    Hate to say it, but there is no reason that big bores would improve your situation. They are essentially the same shock as stock, but made of aluminum.
    They are just so much stronger that stock and smoother too which is a good thing.........peace
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  18. #18
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    On my Stampede 4x4 I use 45wt - 50wt shock oil with the +10% progressive springs front and rear. I've also installed the sway bar kit from the Slash and use the heavier of the two wires that come with the kit. The important part with sway bars is to make sure they have some freedom of movement. You want the mounting bolts tight enough to hold the wire but loose enough to allow it to rotate. You will need to play with ride height to find the right balance for you. Too high and you'll flip over easy. Too low and it bottoms out too much. I set mine so the suspension arms return to an angle slightly above level with a battery in the vehicle. Tires also make a big difference. The stock tires are fairly hard, so they slide going around corners. If you've changed to softer tires they will grip harder, resulting in an easier traction roll.

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I had to change my setup when i put trenchers on because the grip levels when through the roof over the talons.....peace
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  20. #20
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    Yeah that's part of my problem, stock setup with trenchers.

  21. #21
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    I kept the stock shock bodies and put alum caps on. I also put the red medium integy progressive springs on. I kept front locations stock and moved the rears in one hole on the the bottom towards the tranny. This made my truck handle better and stiffened everthing a bit for bigger jumps. Also am using 40 wt oil in the shocks.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaughter33 View Post
    Hate to say it, but there is no reason that big bores would improve your situation. They are essentially the same shock as stock, but made of aluminum.
    Does the same hold true for all aluminum parts?

    I'll argue with you specifically about the Big Bores. Just because they are aluminum means that they can be machined more precisely and will hold their original shape under much greater stress. The important part of the shock body is the bore for the piston. There is no comparison in the smoothness with which the piston slides in the Big Bores versus the Ultras.
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  23. #23
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    I know dude they are so smooth and tough i love them with 50wt and stock springs for what i need .......peace
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    Disagree 100%. The piston rides up and down through the oil, not the body. Where does this magic increase in smoothness come from? TiNi shafts which are a cheap upgrade for stockers. And remember we are talking about a sloppy handling monster truck, not a precision onroad machine. Even if there were some percentage of increased smoothness, it would be wasted on this truck. People just like to waste people's money and try to justify unnecessary purchases. It's the way of all forums.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaughter33 View Post
    Disagree 100%. The piston rides up and down through the oil, not the body. Where does this magic increase in smoothness come from? TiNi shafts which are a cheap upgrade for stockers. And remember we are talking about a sloppy handling monster truck, not a precision onroad machine. Even if there were some percentage of increased smoothness, it would be wasted on this truck. People just like to waste people's money and try to justify unnecessary purchases. It's the way of all forums.
    So you can honestly say that the porous plastic ultra shocks are as smooth as the anodized BB shocks. BTW the OP was asking for some help. He can do his own research and spend his $ as he pleases. We are not RC GODS. Just members TRYING to help.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaughter33 View Post
    Disagree 100%. The piston rides up and down through the oil, not the body. Where does this magic increase in smoothness come from? TiNi shafts which are a cheap upgrade for stockers. And remember we are talking about a sloppy handling monster truck, not a precision onroad machine. Even if there were some percentage of increased smoothness, it would be wasted on this truck. People just like to waste people's money and try to justify unnecessary purchases. It's the way of all forums.
    If you can honestly believe that a piston can move as freely in a plastic shock body that can be deformed by squeezing it with two fingers than in a precision-machined and hard anodized aluminum shock body, then there is nothing more to say to you on the subject of shocks - I won't try.

    Regarding characterizations of members on this forum though, you need to back it up a bit.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaughter33 View Post
    Disagree 100%. The piston rides up and down through the oil, not the body. Where does this magic increase in smoothness come from? TiNi shafts which are a cheap upgrade for stockers. And remember we are talking about a sloppy handling monster truck, not a precision onroad machine. Even if there were some percentage of increased smoothness, it would be wasted on this truck. People just like to waste people's money and try to justify unnecessary purchases. It's the way of all forums.
    WOW your Pede may be a sloppy handling Monster truck mine certainly is not,,,at least in my opinion. Mine is a well mannered precise handling Truggy and the aluminum shock bodies are a big improvement over a stock plastic body IMO.
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  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    My pede handles like a dream thanks to my big bores and 50wt oil all round with stock springs but thats my opinion and are noticeably smoother that my stock shocks.....peace
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  29. #29
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    I for one have never told someone to upgrade unless I:

    1. Personally believe in the upgrade
    2. Have real-life experience or spoke to someone I know about it
    3. Most of the time I have used what I recommend (or don't recommended).

    This guys and gals on this forum have saved me TONS of money over the years I've been here. They can sniff out bad equipment way, way before I even consider buying.
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  30. #30
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    +1 thats why i love this forum and all the knowledge that the members have given me and there reviews......peace
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  31. #31
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    Now for some advice: I have 2 sets of Losi Ten-T shocks and I really, really like them. Plush and they work and don't leak.

    On one of my Slashes I put a set of front Losi Ten-T's on the front, and a pair of Ofna 17mm FRONT shocks on the rear. They also works well but I'm planning to order a softer set of springs for the Ofna because its a little stiff for the street. They'd be great for the skate park tho.
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  32. #32
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    You can improve the plastic shocks by buying parts to toughen them up, but you will not get them to perform at the level of the alum big bores.

    That being said, many do love the ultras with new oil, springs, alum caps, and tini shafts. If your gonna spend 30$ to improve the durability of the stockers, why not spend $15 more and get the performance upgrade also? There might not be a massive improvement in performance, but some of us like our trucks to perform at their best...
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  33. #33
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    Anyone here ever actually built a new big bore and an ultra with caps and shafts? Go try it. You guys act like ultra bodies are made of sandpaper. Big bores are a typical recommendation when there are the TenT, D8, and Traxxas 13mm, which all have advantages over big bores and ultras, yet big bores are still commonly recommended. My point is that there is not enough of a difference, if any, to go from ultras to big bores, especially since 99.9% of people are bashing. Any small difference in perceived "smoothness" is wasted on the fact that this is a monster truck for most people.

  34. #34
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    What a surprise a traxxas upgrade recommended on a traxxas forum. There is always something better, that is what is nice about this hobby mixing and matching and finding what works best for you. BB shocks are recommended because the parts are easier to find for those of us already buying traxxas parts. No need to throw all of the diaphragms, pistons, spacers, and seals away when you can use the BB and keep most of that stuff to use with them.

    Bashing is where you really would notice the handling more since you are trying to handle the tough terrain while maintaining control. As opposed to a groomed course with little change in consistency or on road.
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slaughter33 View Post
    Anyone here ever actually built a new big bore and an ultra with caps and shafts? Go try it. You guys act like ultra bodies are made of sandpaper. Big bores are a typical recommendation when there are the TenT, D8, and Traxxas 13mm, which all have advantages over big bores and ultras, yet big bores are still commonly recommended. My point is that there is not enough of a difference, if any, to go from ultras to big bores, especially since 99.9% of people are bashing. Any small difference in perceived "smoothness" is wasted on the fact that this is a monster truck for most people.
    The following photo was taken October 27, 2008.

    Those are Losi 8ight shocks on a 2WD Stampede. I don't have time to list all the shocks I've used but...my favorites happen to be Traxxas hard anodized GTR variety. I have a few sets of those as well as multiple sets of Big Bores and a bag full of a couple dozen Ultras, etc etc. Even though the GTRs are my favorite, some sets of my BBs have been switched from their original truck to its successor to its successor. I find it hard to argue with a three-generation and counting shock life. I believe one of the most important benefits of the Big Bore or other shock upgrades is that at the first instant of stress the piston slides in the shock body instead of experiencing the slightest of friction and hesitation which can cause bent shafts as the force on the shock increases.

    Before you presume to know everything there is to know about a subject or about those with a slightly different opinion or point of view, please take a moment to ensure you are showing the same respect with which you would want to be treated. Your "you guys" comment is making you come off like a BMOC wannabe. We are here to help each other, not deride the other members.
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  36. #36
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    Ksb reminded me of 1 thing I forgot... for some reason my ultras need to be rebuilt about 3-5x as often as my big bores, and yes I have built up a set of ultras through every avail upgrade including alum shock bodies. Have not done the threaded bodies from aftermarket sources... but that will happen also in due time... In 3 years of constant use my 4x4 platinum big bores have been rebuilt once, and it was only 1 shock leaking from a ripped upper bladder(user error in a hurry and pinched it putting the cap on) that caused me to want to break them down for a full refresh. The other 3 were as smooth as new.

    I recommend them because they are a very, very good shock, and do there job relentlessly and perfectly without a complaint... I dont see why I would need anything better, unless I was landing from 20+feet. Guess I will get the gtrs when I start doing that again.
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  37. #37
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    Big bores installed and it does handle better... but still dives and rides lower than I like. New springs (VG Racing) on the way. They should be stiffer and hey, they're blue!

  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    You could still use the shock spacer's that will give you some extra ground clearance dude ....peace
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  39. #39
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    Yep, I added some spacers but still not to my liking. I drive mostly in grass and take the turns fast before hitting the little kicker ramp I built. Honestly, so far I think my VXL p2de is better for jumping but I'd like the two to ride a bit more like each other than they do.

  40. #40
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    After adding VG Racing rollcages to our Stampedes I really felt the need for a more robust shock. I'm currently using the VG Racing springs on stock shocks with aluminum caps. These shocks are stiff - even with the roll cages I'm finding no need for any pre-load. The first half compresses pretty easily, then they really stiffen up. Seems about perfect.. But might be too stiff if you don't have the added weight of the roll cage.

    I'm still using stock shock oil, and as I have a few bottles of it, I probably won't use anything else for a while. I do have some 60wt around, but may go more for a 40wt when I run out. Anyways, this has completely curbed my want for a better all-round shock.

    I think the springs were $8.99/piece, and the caps where $10 or so? Not a bad upgrade cost.

    I'm not using TiNi shafts. I read they weren't useful with plastic shock bodies? But I do have extra shafts if any bend, then I may consider something stronger.

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