I posted the question what do people use for a work stand for a Summit. It turns out pretty much everything was the answer. Did some research and this is what I came up with. Its a PVC stand per many of your suggestions. It elevates the summit up 8 inches so the tires are clear and good height for me.
I have included a parts list at the end of the thread for anyone interested and some photos with captions. I used the hot and cold PVC for indoor plumbing and not the irrigation pipe. Everything came from LOWES. I found the hot and cold was a better size and worked better. You can change to the other PVC just DONT use my measurements they wont work. All in was about $25 to $30.
PARTS LAID OUT FOR THE BASE
PARTS LAID OUT FOR THE VERTICAL STANDS
CUSTOM FIT THE HEIGHT OF THE FRONT AND REAR STANDS TO MATCH SUMMITS UNDERCARRIAGE
SAME AS ABOVE DIFFERENT ANGLE
DRILLED AND SET SCREWS AT ALL JOINTS. TRIED TO GLUE AND IT WAS A NIGHTMARE WITH ALL THE ANGLES. SCREWS WORKED REAL WELL AND MORE ACCURATE TO THE FINAL FIT. BESIDES I CAN ALWAYS TAKE IT APART AND CHANGE IT.
SPRAYED PLASTIC DIP THROUGH OUT TO INCREASE THE FRICTION BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM. FINISHED STAND WITH PLASTIC COAT.
SUMMIT ON STAND WITH VELCRO TIE DOWN. I HAVE THIS ONE MOUNTED TO A LAZY SUSAN. WORKS WELL FOR ME.
SUMMIT RESTING ON STAND.
COULDN'T JUST HAVE ONE, THE OTHER SUMMITS ARE JEALOUS.
Fun to make only took an hour or two. For you that are interested here's a parts list. REMEMBER its HOT COLD PVC not the bright white irrigation pipe. Everything is from Lowes. The stand is 8 inches tall which was a good height for me.
10 foot length of 3/4 inc hot cold pipe - $10
8 - 90 degree elbows - $3
8 - tees - $4
4 - 45 degree elbows - $2
4 - caps - $2
1 can plastic dip - $6
1 pack of screws - $6
12-pcs 1 3/8 inches
4-pcs 6 inches
4 - pc 3 inches
2 - pcs 5 inches
4 - pcs 4 5/8 inches
I used a 2.5 mm drill bit for the pilot holes. Its a work in progress I welcome any suggestions or ideas.
Wow, looks great!!! Thanks for taking the time to include the parts and cut list. I see myself making one of these in the near future.
Tekin powered Summit
I didn't even think to try that and my dad is a plumber LOL.
What glue did you try to use?
Summit; Spartan; Others yet to come
Awesome! Thanks for posting the details.
Working hard to appear reasonably sane.
I realized after I had to delete some of the photos from my original thread that I left off some important details. I have indicated where the cut pcs go.
12-pcs 1 3/8 inches - HOLD ALL THE CORNERS TO THE TEES,45 DEGREE ELBOWS TO THE TEES AND CAPS TO THE TEES
4-pcs 6 inches - BETWEEN THE TEES ON THE LONG SIDE OF THE BASE AND BETWEEN THE 90 ELBOW TO CREATE PLATFORM
4 - pc 3 inches - BETWEEN THE 90 ELBOWS AND TEES SHORT SIDE OF BASE
2 - pcs 5 inches - VERTICAL PCS FOR THE TWO END STANDS
4 - pcs 4 5/8 inches - VERTICAL PCS ON THE PLATFORM STAND
YOU CAN SEE THE LAYOUT ON THE FIRST TWO PHOTOS. THE OVERALL DIMENSION OF THE BASE IS APPROX 9 X 13 INCHES. THE WIDTH OR DISTANCE BETWEEN THE PLATFORM PIECES IS APPROX 5 3/8 INCHES. THE SUMMIT CHASSIS IS NOT FLAT AND THIS DIMENSION IS WHERE THE PLATFORM FITS THE BEST. THE STEERING SERVOS THAT PROTRUDE DOWN FIT JUST BELOW AND AGAINST THE 90 DEGREE PLATFORM ELBOWS. THERE IS A FRONT AND BACK SO WHEN YOU DO YOUR FINAL MEASUREMENTS FOR THE END STANDS PAY ATTENTION TO FRONT AND REAR, I HAVE MINE LABELED SO THE FRONT OF THE SUMMIT ALWAYS GOES THE CORRECT WAY.
THE SCREWS ARE METAL (FLAT HEADS ) SCREWS #8 X 3/4"/ M4.2X19. I USED A 2.5 MM DRILL BIT FOR THE PILOT HOLES. I USED THE PLASTIC SPRAY NOT WIPE ON. PROBABLY HAS 4 COATS AND ADDITIONAL COUPLE WHERE THE SUMMIT RESTS AGAINST THE PVC. I DID GLUE THE CAPS TO THE TEES ON THE END STANDS BUT IT WAS OVER MY PAY GRADE TO FIGURE ALL THE ANGLES AND TRY TO GLUE IT ALL.
YOU CAN GET CLEAR MOUNTING CLIPS THAT WOULD ALLOW YOU TO MOUNT THE STAND TO A PIECE OF WOOD, WORK BENCH, LAZY SUSAN ETC. I JUST STRAPPED MY SUMMIT TO THE STAND, MOUNTED ON A LAZY SUSAN AND CHANGED OUT THE SHOCKS WITH SOME ALUM ONES IT WORKED GREAT.
We get about 5-8 seconds (on average) working time with it and plus i use it all the time (as i work with my dad in school holidays) so i know how much working time i can get out of it.
Also there is no slower setting glues. It is only temperature and how much you put on that really determines setting speed.
If i did it (i probably will) i would use glue just because it is neater and IMO easier but as i said it takes practice to get it right and neat.
But back on topic: its a good way of making a stand. Simple, fairly cheap and it is pretty strong too. thanks for the idea and taking the time to post it, along with pictures and lots of instructions and info.
Summit; Spartan; Others yet to come
Building one ASAP.
I will going to Lowes after work tomorrow.
Thanks for the parts list and photos!
I've built one for me this weekend (still have to do some fine tuning).
I've changed the measurements a little bit because 45 degree joints were not available near me so I used 90 degree ones.
I'll post pics and details of my measurements tomorrow after I finish it.
I'm anxious to see it. I didn't think to use 90 degree elbows. That actually might make it more stable.
So here it is.
I am still not quite finished yet. Some final adjustments are needed.
What I've changed from your original design:
- Used 90 degrees elbows instead of 45
- Because of that I added 0.5 inch to each piece of the base (short side) to make the base wider and compensate for the angle
- Adjusted the height of the vertical pieces (side ones). I confess on not being very scientific and used eye-o-meter / trial and error
- Added mounting clips to the "T's" to provide a flat surface to the skid plates
- Angled the rear T to better accomodate the angled rear skidplate.
(Sorry for the mess on the background)
Detail view of the wall-mounting clips on the T
Rear T (angled) with clips
Summit front skidplate resting on front T clips
Summit rear skidplate resting on angled rear T clips
Mandatory side/front/back views.
With all the angles and dimensions right I'll put screws everywhere. I kind of like it on the raw brown tube color. I'm thinking of adding rubber pads to prevent slippage, but haven't thought of how exactly to do it (material, thickness, etc).
Thanks again for taking the time to post all the dimensions, etc.
Update: completely unintended use, but it works great.
Wow great job. I really like the idea of the square mounts on the vertical tees. Angling the rear tee is a innovative. I bought some rubber pad from my lhs about 1/8" thick and was going to cut and wrap it between the elbows on the two upper horizontial stands. I do think the 90 degree elbows on the bottom are a better way to go. Its got to be stronger than the way I did it with 45 degree elbows. Going vertical is a nice added benefit.
I did find with the plastic spray that it creates a lot of needed friction for the base and where the truck sits. I'm glad I screwed mine together so now I can take it apart and make some updated revisions. Thanks for the photos and the awesome ideas.
Installed the T-bone Racing skid plates and the truck fits on the work stand even better now. I did install all of the skids, if you only did the chassis skid you would need to adjust the two verticals. Best thing of all is the truck fit upside down on the stand. I was able to work on the summit upside down just fine.
Wow that looks great. I may have to make something like that for my NR. All I am using is two 2x4's duct taped together
Sent From Galaxy S3
ok so i tried to make this but ****.......its not hard only it cost to much -.-
if i wanna build a stand like that it will cost me $ 67,90 welcome to holland
ill keep looking online for cheaper parts
Last edited by Latumalea; 09-17-2015 at 06:05 AM.
nice stand indeed...
lol Latumalea, for you even the duratrax stand will be cheaper after shipping....then again I hear you guys have some heavy cutoms duties out there.
Live life to the fullest
The parts will cost a LOT less than anywhere else
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