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  1. #1
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Pede 4x4 Left Wheel Drive

    I have been using MIP heavy duty axles at the rear end and FLM dueller CVDs at the front for quite a while now without a single issue. In fact the only issues I had were stripped wheels and an increasing number of scratches and dents in the body.

    Yesterday evening I heard a funny noise and noticed weird behaviour of my car. I only needed a little throttle to make it do a right turn without turning the steer on my transmitter.
    After inspection the dogbone of the FLM axle appeared to have popped out of it's cup and I broke the pin with connects the MIP axle to the diff. The threaded part was still in it's place, so the Loctite did it's work.

    I am somewhat surprised that the dogbone managed to get out, because it was impossible to get it back in without disconnecting the tie rod from the caster block first.

    Luckily I only needed a new pin to get my LWD back to 4x4 again.

    Lessons learned: Don't underestimate the grip of the JConcepts Subcultures (12mm hexes of Rulux rims are still doing fine) and stop getting your Pede back on its wheels with the full throttle/brake trick.
    Nobody is born with experience

  2. #2
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I did learn the hard way with throttle and brake trick on 3s i stripped my new desperado just as it popped back on all foursBut i am glad that you are a 4x4 dude again......peace
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  3. #3
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Since the Subcultures balloon quite a bit, it makes it more easy to (mis)use them as a help to get the car back on it's feet.
    Just a bad habit. But fun to tease my buddy with, who always needs a hand when his car is on it's lid. And he deserves it, because 90% of the cases of a car landing on it's lid, are caused by him
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  4. #4
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Thats good to know that we all have mates like thatMy mates merv always makes its way under my pede and then onto its roofbut thats half the fun......peace
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  5. #5
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    I stripped a rulux wheel this evening. Luckily I had a spare in the parts bin. Last outing, I popped a Tekno bone out of socket and had to remove the tie rod to put it back. I could almost flex the RPM arm enough to pop it back in. Dang squishy plastic.

  6. #6
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Would you guys say that they have a stronger 12mm hex in the wheels than desperados.....peace
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  7. #7
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Would you guys say that they have a stronger 12mm hex in the wheels than desperados.....peace
    I'd say the Rulux wheels are slightly better than the Desperados. Not much, but I have simply stripped more Desperados that Ruluxes.
    Nobody is born with experience

  8. #8
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    It's time for new bearings in the bulkheads. The FLM shaft popped out again tonight. OK, I AM LAZY!
    Did the WOT turnover again
    Nobody is born with experience

  9. #9
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    I'd say the Rulux wheels are slightly better than the Desperados. Not much, but I have simply stripped more Desperados that Ruluxes.
    Thank you peter for the heads up on the wheels i can get them off ebay uk for a good price so will look into it because i am not to sure on going 17mm yet because of cash flow .....peace man
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  10. #10
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Thank you peter for the heads up on the wheels i can get them off ebay uk for a good price so will look into it because i am not to sure on going 17mm yet because of cash flow .....peace man
    No problem. I gave the Rulux wheels with the Subcultures a pretty hard time this weekend and they held up great. I put the nuts on pretty tight (I had a hard time getting them off), and they can handle it very well.

    I took half my car apart and found some dirty and some shot bearings. The 5120 bearing (12x18x4) in the rear diff housing should have been a bit larger. Mine is completely gone. At least 1mm play in it.

    I ordered a new set of diff housings to have less play in those. They are not really fit for the MMP/2650 power. Nothing to blame Traxxas for, because they can take the power of the stock combo easily. I think the play in there is the reason that the FLM shaft was able to pop out.
    Nobody is born with experience

  11. #11
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    And if they can take the power of your monster 2650kv they will be fine with my tenshock so they may be my next wheel.With the diff and your flm shaft could you shim it to stop play or is it a no go.....peace and thank you for your time man
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  12. #12
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    While cleaning my Pede today, I found out a very nice option on my FLM shafts. The cups at the diff end have two holes where the cup can be attached to the pin that comes out the diff. That means I was able to mount the cups a bit further away from the diffs so that the dogbones are a bit tighter in the cups. No more popping out
    Nobody is born with experience

  13. #13
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Sounds like a top bit of fixing peter job done.....peace out
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  14. #14
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    When I looked inside the diff, I noticed the spot where the axle of the spider gears fits in, changed into an L-shape.
    I decided to order the FLM diff cups to see if those help to prevent the play on the output axles from the diff, especially on the side opposite to the big gear.
    First I thought it was caused by play of the bearings in the diff housing, but that was not the case.

    I will never drive on fine sand anymore. That stuff finds it's way just everywhere where I don't want it.
    Nobody is born with experience

  15. #15
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    True peter i am not a fan of sand because its a pain to get rid of it allAnd try not to run in the rain because of my bearing but everything else is good.......peace
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petertje60 View Post
    When I looked inside the diff, I noticed the spot where the axle of the spider gears fits in, changed into an L-shape.
    I decided to order the FLM diff cups to see if those help to prevent the play on the output axles from the diff, especially on the side opposite to the big gear.
    First I thought it was caused by play of the bearings in the diff housing, but that was not the case.
    I will never drive on fine sand anymore. That stuff finds it's way just everywhere where I don't want it.

    I just did the same to mine yesterday, all egged out. I was getting a very hard diff out prior... Seems to be running straight now, well until I blew another tire off it...
    Stampede 4x4 vxl w/ MMP/2400kv, Mini E-Revo

  17. #17
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Sadly using the second holes to attach the FLM cups to the diffs didn't work. It doesn't leave enough room for the dogbones to let the suspension move down far enough.
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  18. #18
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    After reading around about diffs I decided to order new gear sets too. The ones with the support for the axle where the 2 gears are on, #6882X, which is used in the XO-1 but is a direct fit for the 4x4 Pede diffs.
    Sometimes I forget that looking around in 4x4 Slash forums gives results in more info than in 4x4 Pede forums.
    Nobody is born with experience

  19. #19
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Hi peter i have been using the revo/maxx diff support ibars in my diffs for over 14 months and they are bulletproof part number 5382x but there is more choice now with the XO-1 diffs setup.....peace
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  20. #20
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    Hi peter i have been using the revo/maxx diff support ibars in my diffs for over 14 months and they are bulletproof part number 5382x but there is more choice now with the XO-1 diffs setup.....peace
    I read about that too. The 5382X is the same set, except for the 6mm output shafts where the 6882X has 5mm.
    The support I-bar is the same.
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  21. #21
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Yeah i only used the i-bar supports but i got them cheap off ebay but they do make them super tough for high powered pede's like yours dude....peace
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  22. #22
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I thought it was not a bad idea to replace the internals of the diffs. Not that the gears are worn visibly, but I just don't like slop if it can be avoided.

    I have always wondered why the small gears were loose on the shaft, so the I-bar seems like a logical improvement to me. Luckly the diff housings are closed well enough to keep unwanted stuff outside. I'm still quite surprised that the gears in the diff look in pretty good shape.

    When the alu diff housings arrive and the new gears, together with the pretty affordable ABEC 5 bearings in the most important places, my Pede should run pretty smooth again.
    Nobody is born with experience

  23. #23
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    It will be super smooth and bulletproof too and when they are done can you post some pics peter that would be cool....peace
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  24. #24
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spenniepoos View Post
    It will be super smooth and bulletproof too and when they are done can you post some pics peter that would be cool....peace
    When I get the stuff in the mail, I will make some pics of the replacement.

    At the moment, the looks of my Pede are not it's strongest point. I have a new body laying around. Still thinking of color scheme (nice excuse for being lazy!).


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  25. #25
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Mine looks like i shot it with a shotgun man but i like a new shell and a clean up so its mint and fresh again...peace
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  26. #26
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Yay. The FLM diff cups arrived today. Nice and shiny red on the outside (just for the idea because you simply never see them when you drive). They come with tough looking shafts for the two gears.

    Sadly the inside is the contrary of the outside. No neat finish and the shafts simply don't fit.

    My FLM experience:
    Front dueller shafts: quality: 9/10, assembly: 3/10, instructions: 0/10 (none), support: 0/10 (none)
    17mm adapters: quality: 10/10, assembly: 10/10, instructions: 0/10 (none, they come with set screws and I still have no idea why).
    Diff cups: quality: 5/10, assembly: 3/10, support: I don't even try.
    My overall rating at the moment:

    Nobody is born with experience

  27. #27
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    did you have to file out the slots in order to get the pins in ?
    Stampede 4x4 vxl w/ MMP/2400kv, Mini E-Revo

  28. #28
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZAD View Post
    did you have to file out the slots in order to get the pins in ?
    No. I put the shafts in my Dremel and used a file to shape the ends nicely rounded. After that they fitted a lot better.
    I did the front end this evening and the slop at the point where the axles connect to the diff is completely gone.
    Pretty happy with the result. Enough compensation for the irritation of doing a piece of work that the guys from FLM should have done.
    Tomorrow it will be the rear end's turn.
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  29. #29
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    are you using all the stock gears or running the e-maxx gears now?
    Stampede 4x4 vxl w/ MMP/2400kv, Mini E-Revo

  30. #30
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZAD View Post
    are you using all the stock gears or running the e-maxx gears now?
    The cups came in the mail way faster than I expected, so I decided to give them a try with the old gear set. I think the difference is not in the gears, but only in the support bar which prevents the gears to move to the center and gives extra strength. It might be that the bar doesn't add any value when the cup is made of metal.

    Just finished the rear end. Fresh bearings everywhere. Everything runs super smooth.

    I had a little issue getting the four screw in which hold the diff together. That was due to the white stuff that you can see on the picture of the diff cups. Kinda hard to get stuff out a hole which has inside thread.

    When everyone is awake here, I will do some testing with the e-logger to see how much power the car consumes at the moment.
    I am still considering stepping back to the 2400Kv, but I don't want to push the motor to its limits.
    Don't get me wrong, I do drive full throttle every once in a while, but I like the idea of having a little extra.

    After a test drive I ended up with a left front dogbone popped out. I did nothing special. Found out the left FLM axle had a little play in the axle carrier.

    Pede is in it's storage spot now. I threw every part in waiting until the frustration is tempered. My patience has it's limits. Lol.
    Last edited by cooleocool; 05-02-2013 at 09:43 AM. Reason: merge
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  31. #31
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I love the I bar with stock diff cups and no problems since doing it in the front and back.but before i had a rear diff cup warp so its a sweet fix and thanks peter for the updates.....peace
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  32. #32
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    After I got my patience back above the threshold (I have builtin LPC (Low Patience Control)), I picked the car and the parts out of the drawer again.

    After getting rid of the slop inside the front carriers (which made the axles move slightly outwards) and replacing the bearings, I decided again to try the other hole in the cups which connect to the diff. The problem of the suspension not going all down (only with the wheels straight) is less now and I decided to try it that way. Good thing that the nose diving (and incidental front flipping) is less when I hit the brakes too hard. If it is going to bug me too much, I will ditch the FLMs and get MIPs on the front end too.
    Last edited by Petertje60; 05-04-2013 at 12:47 AM. Reason: grammar
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  33. #33
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Sounds like the best idea for you getting mips peter less brain stress and down time .......peace
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  34. #34
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    Yeah, maybe you are right.
    For some reason I don't like the MIPs too much. Especially the way they turn not too smooth when the suspension is streched (wheels at lowest position). And the hexes come off way too easy to my taste.

    It might be that the FLM cups are just worn. The shafts have worked flawless for quite a while. I will visit a buddy tomorrow who has a CNC machine and see if he can make me a slightly modified cup version.
    Nobody is born with experience

  35. #35
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I am using the old pinned mips and have no problems with the hexes or grinding and love them very much. But you should see your mate first and try and get the flms to work again before spending your cash man.....peace
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  36. #36
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I don't mind spending money on my cars, but around 90 bucks for a set of MIPs just isn't funny. Gotta love the Dutch tax system. Lol.
    Nobody is born with experience

  37. #37
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    I had my front and back mip's for about 100.00 which is not far from euro's in total and never got hit for taxAnd so i was a lucky man. But just can not get over how much of a beating my mips have taken over 2 years and still going strong.I think they are still my favourite mods so far from the many others......peace
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  38. #38
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I took a closer look to the left front side and noticed the dogbone is slightly bent. After that I decided to order a set of Tekno axles for the front end. Only 34 euro shipped to the Netherlands. Not too bad.
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  39. #39
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. spenniepoos's Avatar
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    Thats a awesome price for a front set of tekno's peter give us the low down on them after a test or two man thanks.....peace
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  40. #40
    RC Turnbuckle Jr. Petertje60's Avatar
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    I expect the Teknos to work well. Looking at the amount of positive feedback about them, and considering the price, they might be the best choice for me.
    Nobody is born with experience

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