So after taking all those pics and going over all those tips and tricks. I still haven't solved my problem 100%
The truck still leans towards one side, regardless of trim.
After I replaced, not one, but TWO missing screws from the same, I want to call it a shaft. It's the screw that goes into the skid plate, and the really hard to reach hole, in between all the servo boxes and wires. It is part of the steering assembly, and, atleast while loose, does not give the servo enough leverage to steer correctly.
Now that I have those screws replaced, I am in better shape. I suppose a new servo would just improve my performance even more. But it's a little bit more drivable, it will turn to the other side more sharply than before, but still not nearly as sharply as it does to the left.
Any other suggestions? Anyone want to donate me a upgraded servo XD
Also with all that tuning, the bugger really gets up and GOES. I don't think I can quite get it to wheelie, that's probably not going to happen without stiffer shocks, and probably that tuned pipe everyone keeps telling me to buy. But if I give it lots of throttle once it's in 2nd gear it'll REALLY get moving, much faster than before. So thank you for all the suggestions.
Last edited by fuzzum111; 04-17-2013 at 03:05 PM.
No offense but starting another thread only clogs up the forum... And asking for a free servo wont get you far IMO
It was meant to be said jokingly, that's why I put the emote there.
I didn't give out my paypal address or other beg and whine. Would you prefer it if I just deleted this and posted in my other thread?
Well this is where I tell you about my wedeman luck.
So it seems I've finally lost, the maxx has defeated me. Darn thing been retired to the closet indefinitely until I have a job and can pay for all the dumb things I need.
I could handle steering problems, but went out to start it back up a few mins ago and the EZ start just exploded. (It was 6 years old, and barely got any use on the 2.5 before I upgraded to 3.3) but the silver electric engine is partially slid out of it's case and is wiggling. It is dead and will not turn over, or anything.
So yea, dead truck is dead until I have a good paying job and can acutally afford this asinine, expensive, annoyingly break-prone hobby -.-
Love this truck when it runs but good, every little thing on it breaks constantly, and I don't even crash it.
I have the worst luck.
Last edited by fuzzum111; 04-17-2013 at 08:44 PM.
Well, all is not entirely lost I suppose.
I am still upset my electric start fried. Here are pics. I installed the pull start that came with my 3.3 upgrade, they just popped on the EZ start that I had from my original 2.5. I dunno, maybe you guys can tell me why it broke. It looks like the silver engine cylinder slid half way out of it's black housing somehow, and I cannot pop it back in.
IF you have a decent tune pull start is not bad at all.
You can always try loosening the glowplug when the engine is cold and tight and start it up , then tighten the glowplug...
You've just given your RC a 6 OZ diet, that's a large amount of weight for a 10lbs RC.
Also you will notice you engine is more exposed to air flow, this will help it keep it cooler.
All Lives Matter
United We Stand, Divided We Fall
Yea, and I've got it tuned well IIRC, but anyways. Any idea what happened with my electric start? I think I heard a loud grinding, then it just died. No reset period, nothing. An from those pictures am I right to think it exploded and popped out of it's casing?
Last edited by Nitronaught; 04-19-2013 at 04:05 PM. Reason: removed asterisks
only way to find out is to pull it apart.... separate the black casing should be 2-4 allen head screws
The only way you will know is by tearing it down...
All Lives Matter
United We Stand, Divided We Fall
There are 2 screws that hold the motor to the ez start housing. If the motor has pulled out you may be able to screw it back in if the screws or motor have not stripped. The 2 screws are under the planetary gears directly behind the motor (you have to remove the gear(s) shown in the last pic to accest the screws).
No slipper/tall gearing/power = broken parts.
If the screws backed out far enough they probably snagged the three planetary gears and probably buggered the tiny sleeves, bushings, each one of those ride on. A right size phillips, to slide inside the bushing, and some needlenose, to slowly work around it to round it back out, will sort of round them back right.
Yea they were screwed out a whole bunch and I screwed them back in, I don't know if that would fix it 100% though. I can try putting it back together and trying it
Go ahead and look at the gear that sits on the electric motor. Underneath it is three planetary gears. Take a look at the little buushings they run on inside each of the bores of the gears. See if they are buggered up. If so, tap a phillips, not to big, into them VERY gently and then take some pliers and start trying to straighten the ends up, by gently sqeeuzing the bushing, moving in a circle, to make it smooth and back roundish, so the gears run free.
Last edited by Oldrcguy; 04-19-2013 at 05:56 PM.
Yea I tried that and put it back together enough to test it out of the truck. It still won't turn over at all.
Well you guys were right about eating my CB.
I ate through another one, but not without knowing I was doing it. I knew something was up but I pushed forward. I got my maxx to do it's first wheelie! fiddling with the LSN and HSN, it acutally popped a solid wheelie, then I couldn't get it to do it again. No amount of tuning helped sadly.
Now my CB is nubs again and I need to buy another few of them. Sadly, no money. When I but the new 20T Cb's I am probably going to get that tuned pipe everyone tells me to buy, that'll prolly be nice and help bring more power to my maxx.
Either go to a nylon spur or a hardened CB, which are heat treated to run on metal spurs, then it will be the metal spur gear that gives up. If I had more time than money, I would stick to nylon spur's. Cheaper by far.