Last night I finally decided to dive in and pick up a traxxas slash 4x4. Let the battery charge overnight and this morning I'm ready to roll. However, I have been struggling for 2 hours now to get the darned thing to work.
I've read ever manual and walkthrough I can find, but I simply cannot get my transmitter to connect to the receiver. I have the TQi transmitter and the VXL-3s receiver.
If I turn on the transmitter then press the receiver button, it is solid red, which I understand is normal for having the low voltage detection turned off. However, no response from transmitter controls.
I've tried to rebind them, I've held the receiver button until it flashes to set the throttle limits, but it doesn't flash again when I pull full throttle.
I'm thinking there's a throttle trim that's off and this is some safety mode, but I can't figure out how to zero out the throttle trim.
I notice that there is a light on the ESC, but also one on what I believe is the receiver beside it. That light is always red and I wonder if that means there's no transmitter bound to it.
Please help this frustrated new RCer!
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uHKCIHXRm9Y try following this and if it doesn't work well...also have you re arranged the cables going into the receiver at all? If you have switched them (or you could just check) esc goes to channel 2 and servo goes to channel 1
You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!
If I were you, I think I would exchange it for another one. If they wont let you, call Traxxas support tomorrow and they will get you going! Welcome to the forum and the addiction! Remember we are here to help!
Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!
Cables are ok, I have not touched them.
I followed this video and the esc does not flash at the point where I press full throttle.
I am taking this thing back to the store now, I am certain something is wrong with it. Will update later
I have actually had the same binding issue with both my summits. Only way i could cure it was to reset the transmitter back to factory settings and start over. Has worked every time for me
you got it wrong the VXL-3S is not the receiver. You need to open the box next to it and thats the receiver. Thats what I picked up from the first few lines.
Savage Flux XL
Trail finder 2
im not saying reset the VXL. i had to reset teh tx in order to get my systems to work. With the same issue
Hi again folks, so after fighting tooth and nail, I convinced them to exchange it. I charged the battery for a bit, then hooked it up just to confirm I have connection. Everything appears to be working now, and I've got the battery charging so that I can have my first run with it tomorrow. Can't wait!
Perhaps I can use this same thread for advice rather than creating a new one. As I mentioned, I'm new to RC. (Or at least new to such a high end rig) So, as of right now, I have a stock machine, it's the Scott Douglas edition. I have 1 battery, which is an 8.4V 3000 MaH NiMH. I'm going to stick with NiMH for now as I know Lipos require more maintenance and care. (Maybe down the road)
I know I'm going to need more batteries, so I wonder if I should get a few more of these same stock batteries, or something else. I'm going to need tools, so links to decent kits that'll contain everything needed would be helpful. I'm sure the stock radio will do me for now, later I may look into an upgrade.
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Assume I know absolutely nothing because I honestly don't.
I'm excited to get this rig rolling!
Bring to hobby shop ask them
You should go lipo now instead of buying more Nimh batts...you can get lipos for not much more (or less even) than the cost of the stock nimh batts. And they arent as much "maintenance" as they're hyped up to be...Also these are the hex drivers I use (well used to use after I got my electric screwdriver): http://www.google.com/search?q=Dynam....1.9j_DNnSsaCY I have the pink ones they are fantastic...I also use a 3/32 size from time to time as well (sold separate) but I don't think you will need that for the slash
You ain't bashin unless your crashin!!
I had the same problem with my TQi controller; No matter what I tried it wouldn't bind. I called Traxxas support, he ran me through a few things, in the end I had to send my controller to them so they could flash the firmware. It took about a week for it to return, & it worked great the first time I re-bound it to the car.
I also agree go lipo.. Well worth it for the run time and power..
I recommend you getting a quality charger than can charge lipo batteries. Eight hours is WAY to long to wait for a battery to charge. Second, go get a Lipo! You will wake your truck up and see it's true potential. Last I recommend a heatsink with a single fan to help keep the motor in a good heat range.
Member of the 10,000 + posts club! Here to help!
X2 on what El Sob said!!!! Go Lipo now and do not buy any more Nimh batteries.....you'll thank us later!!! Check out http://www.spcracing.com/index.php great people!!!!
rc10T3, TT Sparrowhawk XXB, Slash 4x4, 1/16 Rally
+1 for spc lipos.
Here are my fav tools I have ever owned in many years in the hobby, and can be had for around 25$ on ebay:
Ya can't polish fertilizer...
Thanks for the suggestions. Lots of people are recommending LiPos. Can someone describe the ups and downs to me? How much more run time? How long do they take to charge? Someone mentioned more power? Does this mean more available juice or the car actually has more "get up and go"?
Can anyone recommend a charger and battery pack?
On the NiMH side, Are there bigger batteries available that will work with my truck? I think this 3000 MaH says it runs for 15 mins, are there batteries that run longer?
Any info to help me make this decision is greatly appreciated. I had LiPo batteries for a helecopter that I destroyed, but I fried all of them. (They weren't high quality)
I'm also a little confused on parts compatibility. There are Platinum edition and Ultimate edition trucks, then there are racer named edition ones like mine. Mine is the Scott Douglas edition. What parts are compatible with it? I will probably run the stock parts for the most part, until I start to break/wear them out, then I may upgrade to better parts as I do repair work.
I am not competetive at all, I don't know anyone who does this and I have very limited access to hobby shops. So, it's going to be me mostly having fun in parks and whatnot. Hopefully I will run into a few likeminded folks along the way.
In the future, probably at least a couple years down the road, I may be moving closer to civilization where I may have access to an RC club, but for now I'm on my own.
Lipos are basically like adding a higher octane fuel. You get a lot more "get up and go". The difference between a Nimh and a Lipo is massive, especially when you go to a 3s Lipo. You do need to be aware though that it does put more strain on things, driveshafts etc. Also, as it's much faster when you do crash it will usually be harder, so more chance of other things breaking. But the difference in power easily makes up for these issues.
The mh rating is simply the size of the fuel tank. The more mh's the bigger the tank. Theoretically if you get 15mins out of a 3000mh then you'll be looking at about 30mins for a 6000mh all other things - use of throttle, type of ground being driven on etc.- being equal
As far as parts compatibility goes from my knowledge as long as it is a Slash 4x4 - VXL, Platinum, different driver editions - then parts are compatible unless it's the LCG (Lower Centre of Gravity) version, then there are some parts that do, and some parts that don't fit.
Hope that helps, and please someone correct me if I'm wrong on any of the above.
Good info thanks. The battery it came with is 8.4V. I assume that I want to always run an 8.4V in it. I've seen, 8.4V, 7.xV and 11.xV batteries so far. (Can't remember what the "x" was)
I'm still not sure on LiPos. Do I really want more "Get up and go" At this point? Sounds like NiMH may be "Easy mode". Maybe that's exactly where I should start so I don't destroy the thing before I get an hour of play out of it.
I know I need to learn to repair it, but that will come eventually no matter which road I start on.
7-cell NiMH is 8.4V nominal, 10.5V maximum, ±9.8V actual (for a sport pack)
2S LiPo is 7.4V nominal, 8.4V maximum, 8.4V actual (for any pack)
3S LiPo is 11.1V nominal, 12.6V maximum, 12.6V actual (for any pack)
If using a GOOD charger, LiPo packs are as safe and easier to maintain than NiMH packs. I have seen far more actual catastrophic failures with NiMH packs than with LiPo packs, but that said, almost every failure of either type was the result of misuse / abuse.
Budget: Traxxas Ez-Peak Plus or iCharger 106B+
Mid: Hyperion Eos 720i Net3 AC/DC or Eos 1420i, iCharger 206B or 208B, ThunderPower TP610C AC/DC
High: iCharger 306B or 310B, FMA Powerlab 6 or 8, Hyperion Eos 720i Super Duo, ThunderPower TP1430C
Alt-248 on the number pad = °
Buy a couple 2s 7.4 lipos for it... Once you go lipo you will never use your NIMH batteries ever again.... LOL a 2s in your truck now is good for the beginner, especially since I am assuming you will not be playing with the gearing in it for a while.. Everything on the truck works good until you start breaking stuff and you will, its inevitable.. Having said that get you 1 or 2 nice 2s lipos, there are many good brands out there.. I would recommend a venom pro lipo charger.. I got mine off ebay with the power supply for less than $70.. If you get lipos tho and a nice charger... BALANCE charge them everytime.. or the cells will get unevenly charged/discharged and ruin your batteries... As far as parts go, like the others said it doesn't matter what version of the slash 4x4 you have with the exception of the LCG model, all the parts are interchangeable.. I've had a slash ultimate and now I have a slash Ultimate LCG and all the parts with the exception of the chassis, nerf bars, front and rear bulkheads and the motor mount and plate are the same.. Any other questions, just ask there are tons of great people on here willing to help out however possible....
I just had my first run with it and holy crap I think I'm instantly addicted. The videos I've watched on youtube do not do these trucks justice. This is one mean machine and I'm looking forward to a lot of fun with it.
You don't see this type of thing around here, so just about every car that went by had their brakes on with every passenger watching wide-eyed as they passed, haha.
Of course, I only have the stock battery at the moment, so the fun was pretty short lived. I'll have to make due with it until I get some stuff from Ebay.
I am attempting to post a picture of my rig after my run. Already got some scuffs on it, but that just means it was a good run right?
Thanks for all the tips and if there's anything else, please post!
I was in your boat long ago now. Was frightened of lipos and all the hype around them. As an avid rc'er let me make a few reccomendations. (some will agree some wont...its all up to you in the end.)
If you go lipo, start out with 2s (or 2 cell same thing)lipos as some have suggested. They will give you a bit less power than the stock 8.4v nimh battery. Here is the difference. The stock nimh starts out at peak and gradually decreases power and voltage as you drive. The lipo will give you the same power across the board through out its charge.
The vxl (or velineon) esc comes with the lvc (low voltage cutoff) so turn it on and run the truck until the light on the esc goes red.
Chargers come in many styles, types, and colors. I started off with and now have two of the Thunder AC6 (Click Me) It has an internal power supply so no need for extras. It comes with many connectors and can charge Lipo, Nimh, Nicd, and Lead batteries.
Its easy to work with a little time and pacients. Just remember if you have a 5000mah battery do not charge over 5 amps. 3000 dont go over 3 amps. You see the trend? This charger will let you set the amp rating. As will most others.
Hobby king carries lipo packs and so far for me they have been great. I admit to I have neglected them a bit and they seem to be happily carrying on. If I may suggest though, go with hard case batteries. They fit the compartment on the truck better and I personally just like them better.
Lots of info but worth it to know.
Any questions keep posting up or pm me.
Have fun with your truck, and enjoy the hobby.
Rustler, Alias, Stampede, and Aton+