Can someone provide a link to a Trans rebuild kit for the Jato 3.3 Transmission. Just stripped mine out...
XO-1/Jato 3.3/Tmaxx Picco Reddot/Hpi Vorza/Ofna Lx2 with LRP 28
Kit to buy? Or instructions?
Jato 3.3 Pede 2.5R Rusty 3.3
Hopefully this will help...http://traxxas.com/explodedviews/550...Qi-24GHz-Radio
Ive also seen brand new complete trannies from a stripped jato on ebay for dirt cheap
Jato 3.3 Pede 2.5R Rusty 3.3
I wasn't sure what you needed, so here is everything to build A complete Jato transmission. TRA5591- gearbox halves, TRA5566- slipper shaft, TRA5593- primary shaft, TRA5586- 1st gear, TRA5585- 2nd gear, or maybe TRA5593X- single speed conv., TRA5579- diff. gear, TRA5590- primary clutch(2 speed shift hub), TRA5580- diff. cover, TRA5552X- slipper clutch rebuild kit, TRA1985- 5x8 Teflon washers, TRA5119- bearings, TRA5116- 5x11x4 bearings though I prefer TRA4611- 5x11x4 bearings there A little stronger. But if your driving style is anything like mine your going to want stronger parts. I have the Hot Racing 2-speed gear set for Jato, SJT1000X on Ebay. If you were in 1st gear and it gave out during acceleration it's propbably just 1st gear. I went through a lot of them before the steel conversion. The Hot Racing set is all hardend steel from 1st to the differential, but then you'll need steel driveshafts (TRA 5551X) and steel wheel hubs (TRA4954R). I think all steel is the way to go, I haven't looked back. I've only broke one steel spindle, and that was A very high speed, very violent crash.
Thank you Mark B and StixX... Very much appreciated... I will be looking closely at the Hot-Racing kit as I have an os .21 to put in the jato when this 3.3 dies...
yeah, go with the Hot-Racing kit. I got one of them bad boys in my tranny and i haven't ever had a tranny problem since.
Steel kit no longer available... What if I replace weak gears with aluminum? Anyone using the aluminum gears.. Or mixing he gears that strip with the plastic ones that don't... Need some input
How long have you have your jato? I mean parts are going to break and most all plastic parts are considered consumable parts and are gonna need to be replaced. i think with mixing different types of gears your gonna cause some issues faster then if you just replaced the tranny gears with the stock parts. I had a problem with stripping clutch bells cuz i switched to a steel spur gear, ended up just going to the stock spur cuz they are about 4 bucks. i think just stock would save time, money, and headache.
"Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?"
They sure don't, I just looked everywhere for one. They still make all of the gears individually. But then that $90 kit will cost $160, I would get them anyway. I spent over $1oo on plastic gears before I found the steel ones, if I would have bought them individually when I stripped 1st the first time, I still would have come out ahead. If I had to do it now, I would get the four gears for 1st and 2nd and worry about the diff gears later if I had to. The steel 1st and 2nd primary gears fit together differently than the plastic ones, that's why I would get second too. I don't know how alum and plastic will work together, but I do know steel and plastic won't. Not in the trans anyways. If you do try that, remember you'll need 1st and 2nd primary gears on the alum ones to.
Thanks Mark... From the get go $90 I can live with, $160 definitely not ;-) Anyways, I keep stripping the differential drive gear and diff gear... Could you link me the two aluminum gears you are talking about... I am willing to try them with the stock plastic differential drive gear and see how they hold up.... At least the plastic will not strip the aluminum... But Aluminum on Aluminum is not going to last, that I know for sure... but again thanks for the advice Idrive I have had my Jato for two years now, but I have an Engine now that shreds under WOT, start and stop heavy bashing... I am tired of rebuilding tranny after tranny.. As a matter of fact I have TWO and hate it... let me know...
What engine are u using?
Jato 3.3, Revo .28 JL Max, Nitro Stampede 3.3
New TRX 3.3 with a Losi carb... I don't know why, since I added that carb and broke in that engine, the thing strips trannys under WOT... And yeah... The slipper is not too tight... been doing this a while now and trust me... my third TRX engine and it is more powerful with this current set-up... than the previous two... to the point where I was wondering if something is wrong with the Tranny.. so I bought a second brand new... same thing... the Motor just puts too much power down and the plastic gears can't take it... best I've got is 4 tanks then stripped again...
Last edited by XO-1 MD; 06-26-2013 at 06:34 PM.
Just got the steel tranny upgrade... Any advice before I install?
Not looking to hijack, but what losi carb are you running?
Losi 3.4 Carb
Last edited by XO-1 MD; 08-05-2013 at 12:36 AM.
The metal drive-shafts are probably shearing the pins. Plastic drive-shafts probably will "give" a little but then again maybe the plastic DS will break lol.
That losi carb was a direct replacement? I put an ofna force .28 on and can't get the carb to close and open all the way, the servo doesn't have enough travel.
Yeah the Losi was a direct fit... Made my TRX perform like a beast... As you can see, before I was shredding gears, now, with steel gears I am snapping axle pins like toothpicks... My LHS said to make pins from high tensile steel drill bits...
Thanks for the info! This 3.3 is just about toast, had a terrible idle, and couldn't wheelie. Can now and idles great. I almost traded it in at a LHS but they were out of the 3.3. I think I am afraid of a fresh mill with the 3.4 carb lol.
This is a great thread and I think your about to strip the hex in your wheels from what I can see in that pic.
Hey XO, I plan on mimicking your set up, steel gears, same carb and will be trading my 3.3 in for a new one sometime soonish....so I am wondering how your making out with the hex pins.
I got the steel HR gears in my tranny tonight, also got a new and a used losi 3.4 carb today as well. Seems like I am not totally getting full throttle, is this normal or what you experienced?
That is not normal, check your servo end points vs dual rate setting... Also adjust your servo to have more throttle than brake... Center then connect the servo horn in favor of the throttle... Let me know... BTW... I bought six (6) 2mm Milwaukee drill bits and would be making my pins this weekend so will let you know...
Last edited by XO-1 MD; 08-16-2013 at 10:57 AM.
Thanks for the info, I googled "servo end points vs dual rate setting" and then looked at the TQI instructions. I got a TQi from soem electro, put it jato/nitro mode and that helped some. I then reset the servo end points and viola it went full throttle! Lets hear how you do with the drill bits. Did you try out the electro hexes you got from amain?
Even with a worn out 3.3 I had to put the wheelie bar on to keep controllable. Badlands in the grass led to many cartwheels Really can't wait for a LHS to stop being lame and get a 3.3 in for me to trade in.
Glad to hear... The electro pins snapped like toothpicks... The alum just cannot stand up to the torque with the steel gears... So just installed steel "drill bit" pins... Will let you know...
I find it strange that your having so much trouble with the axle pins. That's the only stock part in the driveline that I haven't had any problems with. What are you doing when they brake, I don't see how someone could be to much rougher on a Jato than I am.
Mark... All am doing is speed runs... Then they snap... I dremmel some pins from drill bits... So will see what happens...
Update... Tried the drill bit mod and it is hold firm... Had some WOT runs and they are intact...
NICE! Thanks for the update, glad you got it all sorted out
Finally ran it with the carb opening to full throttle...thing is a beast. Went from a worn out 3.3 to blasting wheelies on demand again. I can't imagine how terribly fast your is XO!
I think the brake was set a little tight and it ate a spur gear, threw in a new one and will run it tomorrow after work in the parking lot. Everything seems to turn more easily after I took a couple turns out of the brake pads so I hope that's all it was.
Thanks again for all the info, feedback and information and for letting me half hijack your thread.
Awesome John... Awesome... ;-) am working on my video set-up... So far am up to 72 mph... Trying some gt tires... Will see...